jsi4u2nv
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Posts posted by jsi4u2nv
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Hey man if your selling that climate control let me know, mine died today :-/ This is my second one in 4 months.
sorry man, i already put it in. I do have the old one which works, just the display screen is broke but the unit is still functional.
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why did you hate them? was it the feel of the ride or just the look? I'm still trying to figure out what size wheels to get after I put back in the stock suspension.
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yup. once you pull off the bottom part of the seat, you should be able to access the 2 bolts that hold the back part of the seat to the body.
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lol. I forgot pick n pull is only out west. yeah, its a wrecking yard where you pay $2 to get in, then you pull your own parts. The trick is they dont tell you what cars are there, so you lose $2 if you cant find what you need.
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what size are you going for? 19's or 20's? The rim shop told me a 20 x 8.5 with +30 offset would tuck but wouldn't gaurantee they wouldn't rub.
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I went to Pick n pull this last weekend and scored big time. There was 2 sc400's, one of em was pretty much fully intact. I got all 4 coil springs for $100, the climate control for $20, the radio/ac/shifter bezel trim for $7, and a bunch of small parts that fit in my pockets for free! Too bad the door panels were the wrong color.
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I have a 92 sc300 which was lowered when I bought it, and it rubbed right through the wheel well and through the wiring harness that runs above the driver side wheel well. I repaired the wiring and the wheel well and put coil spacers to solve the rubbing.
I recently bought the stock sc400 coil springs from the wrecking yard and plan to put them in this weekend. My question is will 20's fit with the stock height suspension without rubbing? Anyone have experience with this? Thanks.
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Lexus Code Retrieval
Accessing Diagnostic Trouble Codes
The check engine warning light will come on when the ignition switch is turned On and the engine is not running. When the engine is started, the check engine warning light should go off. If light remains on, the self-diagnosis system has detected a fault in the system.
Battery voltage must be 11 volts or more. Throttle valve must be fully closed. Transmission must be in Neutral position. All accessories must be turned Off.
On pre-OBD II models, turn ignition to On, then use a jumper wire to connect terminals TE1 and El of the data link connector, located under the left hand side of the instrument panel. Codes are indicated by the number of flashes of the check engine warning light.
Reading Trouble Codes
If the ECU has detected a system malfunction, the check engine light will blink every .5 second. The first number of blinks will equal the first digit of a two digit diagnostic trouble code and after a 1.5 second pause, the second number of blinks will equal the second digit of same diagnostic trouble code. If there are two or more DTC's, there will be a 2.5 second pause between each. After all DTC's have been output there will be a 4.5 second pause and all DTC's will be repeated as long as the terminals TE1 and El of the data link connector are connected. In the event of two or more DTC's, indication will begin from smaller numbered code and continue in order to the larger. After all DTC have been recorded, remove jumper wire.
Clearing Trouble Codes
After service, the diagnostic trouble code or DTC's retained in the ECU memory must be cleared by remove the EFI fuse for approximately 10 seconds or more, depending on ambient temperature (the lower the temperature, the longer the fuse must be left out) with the ignition switch off. DTC clearing can also be done by removing the battery ground cable, other memory systems (clock) will also be cleared. If the diagnostic trouble code is not cleared, it will be retained by the ECU and appear along with a new DTC in future trouble codes. If it is necessary to work on engine components requiring removal of the battery ground cable, confirm no DTC's are stored. After clearing codes, road test the vehicle to check that a normal operation. If the same diagnostic trouble code appears, the trouble has not been corrected.
OBD1 codes:
12
RPM Signal
13
RPM Signal
14
Ignition Signal
15
Ignition Signal
16
Electronically Controlled Transmission Control Signal
17
CMP No. 1
18
CMP No. 2
21
Main O2S & Heater Signal
22
ECT Sensor Signal
24
IAT Sensor Signal
25
Air–Fuel Ratio Lean Malfunction
26
Air–Fuel Ratio Rich Malfunction
27
Sub O2S Signal
28
Main O2S
29
Sub O2S
31 & 32
Air Flow Meter Signal
35
HAC/Barometric Pressure Sensor Signal
41
TP Sensor Signal
42
VSS Signal
43
Starter Signal
47
Sub TP Sensor
48
Secondary Injection System Malfunction
51
Switch Condition Signal
52
KS Signal
53
Knock Control Signal
55
KS Signal
70
EGR System Malfunction
71
EGR System Malfunction
78
Fuel Pump Control
Hope this helps!
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for all 95 and earlier OBD1 models, there is a diagnostic connector inside the car, driver side, under the dash. The pins to jump would be labeled E1 and TE1.... jump these pins together with a paperclip or wire, then turn on ignition, and count flashes of the check engine light. long flash then quick flash. example: 2 long flashes, 4 quick flashes = 24
Here's the breakdown:
Lexus Code Retrieval
Accessing Diagnostic Trouble Codes
The check engine warning light will come on when the ignition switch is turned On and the engine is not running. When the engine is started, the check engine warning light should go off. If light remains on, the self-diagnosis system has detected a fault in the system.
Battery voltage must be 11 volts or more. Throttle valve must be fully closed. Transmission must be in Neutral position. All accessories must be turned Off.
On pre-OBD II models, turn ignition to On, then use a jumper wire to connect terminals TE1 and El of the data link connector, located under the left hand side of the instrument panel. Codes are indicated by the number of flashes of the check engine warning light.
Reading Trouble Codes
If the ECU has detected a system malfunction, the check engine light will blink every .5 second. The first number of blinks will equal the first digit of a two digit diagnostic trouble code and after a 1.5 second pause, the second number of blinks will equal the second digit of same diagnostic trouble code. If there are two or more DTC's, there will be a 2.5 second pause between each. After all DTC's have been output there will be a 4.5 second pause and all DTC's will be repeated as long as the terminals TE1 and El of the data link connector are connected. In the event of two or more DTC's, indication will begin from smaller numbered code and continue in order to the larger. After all DTC have been recorded, remove jumper wire.
Clearing Trouble Codes
After service, the diagnostic trouble code or DTC's retained in the ECU memory must be cleared by remove the EFI fuse for approximately 10 seconds or more, depending on ambient temperature (the lower the temperature, the longer the fuse must be left out) with the ignition switch off. DTC clearing can also be done by removing the battery ground cable, other memory systems (clock) will also be cleared. If the diagnostic trouble code is not cleared, it will be retained by the ECU and appear along with a new DTC in future trouble codes. If it is necessary to work on engine components requiring removal of the battery ground cable, confirm no DTC's are stored. After clearing codes, road test the vehicle to check that a normal operation. If the same diagnostic trouble code appears, the trouble has not been corrected.
OBD1 codes:
12
RPM Signal
13
RPM Signal
14
Ignition Signal
15
Ignition Signal
16
Electronically Controlled Transmission Control Signal
17
CMP No. 1
18
CMP No. 2
21
Main O2S & Heater Signal
22
ECT Sensor Signal
24
IAT Sensor Signal
25
Air–Fuel Ratio Lean Malfunction
26
Air–Fuel Ratio Rich Malfunction
27
Sub O2S Signal
28
Main O2S
29
Sub O2S
31 & 32
Air Flow Meter Signal
35
HAC/Barometric Pressure Sensor Signal
41
TP Sensor Signal
42
VSS Signal
43
Starter Signal
47
Sub TP Sensor
48
Secondary Injection System Malfunction
51
Switch Condition Signal
52
KS Signal
53
Knock Control Signal
55
KS Signal
70
EGR System Malfunction
71
EGR System Malfunction
78
Fuel Pump Control
Hope this helps!
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window regulator is integrated with the motor... it comes together as one piece. its pretty simple to replace. carefully remove the door panel, then peel away the plastic liner covering the door. If you have the new motor/regulator assembly in hand, it should be fairly simple to visualize where things bolt up...
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check the brake light switch... its mounted somewhere on the brake pedal.
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NOx is caused by high exhaust temperatures... the EGR system is what is used to control it. I would think your EGR valve is clogged ir not operating correctly.
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so does the SC 300 comes with a amplifier?? because the sound is pretty impresive!!!!
if you still have the stock system in your sc300, then yes, it has an amp. actually there is two amps. one for the front and rear speakers, and a second for the 8" subwoofer.
when I bought my sc300 the stock system was already missing... looks like the previous owner installed a lcd screen where the stock radio was, and by the looks of the broken console, it was also stolen.
I custom made my own bracket and harness to fit an aftermarket sony cd mp3 player and 2 gauges underneath (volt gauge and air/fuel gauge to take up the empty space) along with 2 alpine 12" type-s subs and a 800watt soundstream amp and lined my trunk with dynamat. Also have eclipse front and rear speakers in the stock locations powered by another soundstream amp. Sounds much better than stock! thats why im going deaf says the doctor, lol.
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I keep getting this error code 71. I've already removed the EGR, cleaned it out, vacum tested it, everything looks good. I replaced it, cleared the code, but the code keeps coming back. I've double checked the vaccum lines, everything seems fine. Car runs perfectly, idles perfect, accelerates great, no overheating... cant figure this one out. Anyone have experience with this problem? :cries:
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the thermostat on the 92 sc300 is located on the lower passenger side of the block, just follow the lower radiator hose. its pretty simple really.
first drain the coolant
remove the lower hose clamp
remove lower hose from housing
remove thermostat housing (three nuts if i remember correctly)
remove old t-stat and o-ring
make sure to replace the o-ring on the t-stat
replace everything and top off coolant with a 50/50 mix
hope this helps
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looking to buy the stock coil springs for my 92 sc300. car was already lowered when I bought it. Im looking to bring it back up to stock hieght so I can put bigger rims on it. anyone know where to buy some or have any for sale? Thanks.
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the lights on the gauge cluster can be replaced but the needles work on a l.e.d. source and need to be fixed. There are someplaces that refurbish your cluster for about $300 or less but you would have to remove the cluster, mail it to them then wait a week or two for the cluster to be returned to you.
If you are mechanically enclined you can remove the cluster, take it apart, replace the burned out bulbs, and just use some bright red hobby paint for the needle tips... might be a ghetto fix but at least you can see where the needles are pointing.
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The problem lies with your idle... if its idling low, try cleaning out the throttle body unit with some throttle body cleaner. The reason why it stays on with the ac on is because the ecu compensates for the parasitic drag of the compressor by bringing up the idle just a tad, which is keeping your engine from dying.
clean out the trottle body
make sure power steering fluid is topped off
if this doesn't help the low idle, take it in for a check up
a dirty or clogged throttle body will cause the engine to choke out and die when you take your foot off the gas pedal, not to mention cause poor idling and hard starting
hope this helps
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most likely the coils. my dads es300 was bottoming out in the rear and I replaced the coils and it helped.
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Common problem... I have a 92 SC300 with same problem. best thing to do is to rip out all the carpet and center console then put down some high heat dynamat (the kind made for hoodliner) then replace the carpet and console. Helps reduce heat transfer and also quiets down road noise.
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I need to know which valve is low side and which is high side... there is one directly in front of the radiator and one down low close to the passenger side wheel well. Which is which? My a/c system has no pressure when I push down on the valve. Any one ever retrofitted their car? Mine is an '92 sc300. Thanks.
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up... please help!
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Hello all,
I am new to this forum and this is my first posting. I just traded my 97 Honda accord for a 92 SC300. This car is the best car I've ever driven! The check engine light is on (CEL) and I pulled the code and am getting a code 71. I looked it up and it says EGR System malfunction. Anyone have any experience on this problem? The EGR valve looks pretty simple to replace but it costs $214 at my local Lexus Dealer. Is there any other parts or things that might be triggering the code? I know I should clean the passages before replacing the EGR but is there any other areas I might inspect also? I guess I should also change some of the vaccum hoses as well. Any takers? Thanks in advance!
20" On Stock Suspension, Will It Fit?
in 92 - 00 Lexus SC300 / SC400
Posted
cool! thanks for the info. I really appreciate it! after I restore the ride height i'm gonna save up for 20's and i'll make sure they look good.