ivrule

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About ivrule

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  1. I looked at the oil pan and found that I need to disconnect exhaust pipe and some kind of engine support. Can anybody share the information on what portion of the exhaust pipe (one or two) needs to be disconnected? Any other challenging aspects such as handing gaskets for each exhaust pipe? Thanks in advance.
  2. Sounds more like oil pan gasket problem. I have the same problem. If you take a closer look from underneath, you see the oil leaking from the oil pan gasket. I bought the gasket and sealant last week. Need to find some time to work on it.
  3. Use flexible one (forgot the name) to reach those spark plugs. I bought one from at Autozone (~$6-10). I did mine using it. Not easy, but I think easier than taking out the throttle body.
  4. Has anyone done oil pan gasket replacement before? Mine (92) is leaking. Is it difficult?
  5. I went through this already, and not over yet. Mine is 92'ES300. So much trouble from the begining. I almost dislike this car. When I had a 86 Galant (until 2000), I never had a smog problem (instead transmission problem). When you take a car to a mechanic, usually they say PCV valve, oxygen sensor, spark plug, etc. The point is they do not know exactly what to fix. So they list all the possible things related with emissions. Typically, dealer is more expensive, but accurate in diagnose. Means repair the only one that needs to be fixed. 2 years ago when I bought mine, the mechanic replaced 2 oxygen sensors (cheapest one), catalytic converter, cleaned egr valve, replaced spark plugs (wrong type!). It costed me almost $1000 then. Now I replaced spark plugs, wires, dist cap & rotor. Corrected one fuel injector seating. I dumped fuel injection cleaner. Yet I failed smog test. It was close, but HC was slightly higher. After replacing one oxygen sensor & timing, I am going to check one more time. It is strange that all the mechanic said this car must be good. I don't know in what sense! It is sucking so much money. Maybe this is the cost of owning the "once" luxury car.
  6. You can read it easily. Open the diagnostic box. Short E1 and TE1 (?) with key "on". Read the blinking of check engine light. 1st Number of blinking is 1st digit of code, 2nd number of blinking is 2nd digit of code. Fixing is another problem
  7. What is the role of differential oil? Do we need to change when we change ATF?
  8. Does anybody know what the "right" oxygen senor is? (front or rear one). I got code '28' and the manual say right oxygen sensor. BTW, mine is 92 model.
  9. I have "check engine light on". The code is 28, which indicates "right oxygen sensor" according to the manual. Does anyone know what "right oxygen sensor" is? Is it close to dash or front? I know this is related with fuel filter malfunction in cylinder # 2 (dealer mechnic fixed this). Another question is: can we clean the oxygen sensor and reuse it? Should we buy dealer part or is it safe to use Autozone part (cheaper)? Some mechanic said it is safe to use dealer parts, though expensive.
  10. Has anyone done EGR valve cleaning? If so, could you provide any clue on "How to"? It seems easy, but want to make sure if there is any challenges or risks. Thanks.
  11. I shorted TE1 and E1 in the diagnostic box and counted how many times the check engine light was blinking. First number is the first digit of the code and second one is the second digit of the code. My manual does not have code number beyond 71. Austin
  12. Does anybody tell me whta the diagnostic code 82 mean for my 92 ES 300? I suspect it may be either O2 sensor or EGR valve. But need to sure before I repair. Thanks in advance. Austin