John Chapman

No picture... but.... If you go to the parts counter at a Toyota or Lexus dealer with clips in hand they can match them. If you can't get the clips loose, the parts counter will have an illustrated parts breakdown showing just about every piece of the car and where it is. I just did this with some bits from my '95 Camry and got everything except a radio knob, which arrived in two days. Toyota parts like this are frequently the same and less expensive... cheers, JMC

RX in NC... "Happy" was perhaps overstated, eh? I made that 'leap of logic' because you've kept it (and it's problems) for 130K... again, on the assumption that it is a 'from new vehicle'. Good luck with your decision. Cheers, JMC

Here's a system that works for me: As required by your level of compulsiveness, but at least twice a year... and before visiting the car wash: Start car and allow engine to warm up... not hot just warm. With sprayer set to 'mist' or 'spray', spray entire engine compartment with 409. Allow to stand for five minutes. Using garden hose and spray nozzle, rinse using the medium spray setting. This works best if you use hot water. (The drain bib on the hot water heater will usually fit a garden hose.) If areas of grease are built up and don't wash off, wet a shop rag with carb cleaner (B-12 Chemtool) or use the B-12 from a spray can and wipe off the build up. A parts cleaning brush (looks like a big watercolor brush with shorter bristles) will help get to hard to reach spots. Repeat. Use shop rag to dry up trapped water and flat surfaces to prevent spotting... or, use compressed air at about 60 psi to blow water off the motor. Be careful not to allow the air blow on or toward connectors/seals, etc. Restart engine an allow to idle for ten minutes. This has worked well on my '87 Mazda B2000 and '95 V6 Camry. Neither is 'concours' but they are clean and present a well-kept appearance. Guaranteed to get a comment from any service personnel. I intend to continue same routine with my newly acquired '01 RX 300. Cheers, JMC

RX, Responding to your initial post, I'll base my input one 1) having from new, a '95 Camry V6 with 190K on it, and 2) having just purchased its replacement, a '01 RX 300 with 88K on it... The Camry has been a delight in terms of reliability and value. I'd vote to keep it, however elderly parents dictate we drive something that is at a more favorable seating height for orthopedically impared adults. I purchased both vehicles with the intent of driving them to 200K or better, so I've not scrimped on maintenance. I kept the Camry under dealer maintenance until 120K, when I found a local independent that was better and less expensive... by about 60%. Being a former military pilot, I'm of the mind to replace things BEFORE they fail. Items I think you can expect to need between 130-180K: CV joints/boots (if you're changing the boot do the CV, too. The labor is sunk cost. Did mine at 140K. Struts. Did all four at 175K. Turned it into a new car. KYB vs OEM. Wifely driver is usually mechanically oblivious unless the car won't go or is shaking to pieces, but called me on the way home from the re-strut/rotate/balance to exclaim what a difference it made. Well spent $1000. Engine mounts/dogbone replaced ~120K as a collateral premptive repair whilst doing the timing belt and replacing (yet again) the valve cover gaskets. PS pump and rack @ 150-160K. High pressure hose anytime after 80K... may go to eternity, though. I'm of the opinion that almost any TMC product is easily capable of going 250-300K if routine maintenance is done and worn consumable parts are replaced in a timely manner that prevents collateral or cascade failures. It's the little 'penny wise' items that will clobber you... e.g. worn/bad dogbone will stress the manifolds, exhaust headers, engine mounts, half shafts and seals, and steering components. I share your concern about the basic V6 Camry chassis hauling around an extra 850-900 pounds under the RX300 and intend to pay particular attention to the transmission and the brakes. I'm a tightwad, too, and receive a lot of skeptical comments from my coworkers and family who can't see why I'd put $1000-1500 in maintenance into a 10-12 year old car to keep it highly servicable.... Simple, $1000 is something like two car payments if you include the increased insurance and taxes. So, if I can avoid a $30+K purchase for six months on that grand, I think I'm money ahead. Depreciation is no longer a relevant factor after 125-130K anyway. Now you're running on utility value. I'd vote on spending $4-6K in manintenance over 3-4 years to keep a car you're happy with. Cheers, JMC