Benzoserviceguy

which buttons exactly? :o the buttons to open and close the moonroof. it is accessible in the day time but when the car cools off in the evening the buttons sticks real hard. hope you can help. Take it to the dealer and let them remove the plate around it so the buttons can be cleaned. Also a good reputable detail shop could probably do the same work. I would just go to the dealer. That my friend will cost you. The dealer will NOT do it under warranty. They WILL charge you. There is NO manufacturer failure of a part. it is outside influence that has caused the part to fail or stick (in this case dried syrupy soda) Not trying to be negative or spray on your parade but these are the facts. That is why I DO NOT allow any drinking or eating in my car - strictly water and it needs to be in a water bottle or a cap/lid that can be sipped from!

It's NOT bumper to bumper THERE WILL BE EXCLUSIONS!! Check with the service advisor to find out what is & what is NOT covered!

We had the recall performed and YES, the dealer did fill our tank FULL!! as my wife said: "Thank you LEXUS" Now, if only they can fix the MT judder issue we will be fine!!

My wife & I own an 06 IS 250 MT. We special ordered this car to get the MT with the sports suspension AND the heated/vented seat & the power "goodies". We currently have 41K on the clock. At about 30K we brought the car into the dealer and complained about a shudder/judder in 1st when releasing the clutch. It felt as if the car was studdering. Now, both my wife & I have been driving MT since we first got our license(s) which is bout 20+ yrs ago. My wife's 98 SATURN lasted over 80K before the clutch needed to be repalced (we can thank our now 21YO daughter for prematurely wearing it out) and my 99 E36 Bimmer lasted to 116K before I traded it in (BTW clutch was on it's way out) I got the call from Lexus service - the clutch has "hot spots" or blue marks on it. The explanation was due " to the manner in which the car is driven" Unfortunately, since the clutch is a wear & tear item (think brakes & tires) there is/was NO warranty on a wear & tear item. We had 2 options: 1) Deal with it 2) LEXUS will offer a one time goodwill gesture and pay for the parts and the client (US) needs to pay for the labor. The cost of the parts was approx $2,500+ (Flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, rear main seal) and the labor would be about $1K +/- We chose option #2. HOWEVER, now at 41K intermitentantly, we get the "judder". And both my wife & I are thinking NO F*ing way!! You MUST be kidding. Well, only time will tell. If it gives out at another 30K +/- We will probably sell it, trade it and get a Benz, Bimmer or any other REAL MT car. FWIW, I personally think that Bimmer and Honda have the nicest gear boxes (just my .02) Hope this helps!

ZAINO is the way to go !!! http://www.zainostore.com/

If there is less than 6mm (which is approx 50%) then you have used the brakes and WORN them out. You have gotten the use out of them for which they were designed. Yes, the warranty is 4/50 but wear & tear items are NOT covered. Be thankful the STORE and not Lexus NA is picking up the tab for your FREE brakes. At Benz, there is a 12/12 warranty (12 mo or 12K) on any ADJUSTMENTS and that INCLUDES brakes. Once you pass the 12K or 12 mo, your on your own, unless of course, the STORE wants to step up and cover the cost. Score one for the client. After wearing out your brakes, you got a FREE set ... NICE!!!

Make sure the mirror adjustment switch is positioned to "adjust" the drivers or passanger's mirror - make sure the switch is NOT in the center or NEUTRAL position. This should work. Also there is no mirror fold-in option (at least on the 06)... whadda ya think it is, a Benz S class? If all elese fails ... R.Y.D.M Mine has dipping mirrors, and they also fold at the press of a button on the door panel The fold in feature must be a European (UK) specific option. Here in the States, only the dip down feature is available. The mirrors will move in toward the body if you MANUALLY push them in.

Make sure the mirror adjustment switch is positioned to "adjust" the drivers or passanger's mirror - make sure the switch is NOT in the center or NEUTRAL position. This should work. Also there is no mirror fold-in option (at least on the 06)... whadda ya think it is, a Benz S class? If all elese fails ... R.Y.D.M

Brake dust? They'll replace your front pads with ceramics if you complain to the dealer. Is there any mileage limitations to this? I do have excessive dust in my opinion. I have ~15k on the car. It would be nice to get a "free" brakejob. Here in CALI, the dealers are no longer 'honoring' the TSB cause Toyota determined that replacing the pads did very little to cure squeaking or xcessive brake dust. The squeal/squeak came back in less than 5K and the brake dust was reduced but not SIGNIFICANTLY. Cost too much for too little. Normally. the adjustment period is only 12K or 12 months Lexus supplies everything. See the PDF attached It ONLY applies to 350's NOT 250's

TOTAL CRAP & B.S!! Once again, the moronic, dim witted sales person is selling what they see, they don't care to see what they can sell. take you biz elsewhere. Visit LEXUS and use the build your own site. It will search inventory based on your zip code. Find out a few zip codes of neighboring towns or states that are nearby and use those zip codes to conduct/widen your search. GOOD LUCK!!!!

Good Luck. Not many dealers have manual 250's let alone true "strippers" I have an 06 manual with sports pak that I was told could not be made. All it took was a salesperson who was willing to 1) look to see if they build the car & 2) to forgo the immediate gratification of a sale NOW and look to 90 -120 days into the future. WE got our car the way WE wanted it and it was worth the wait!! Try LEXUS OF VALENCIA (part of the Keyes family) and ask for the Internet manager - he's a standup guy He'll either order or find what you want.

NO manual tranz = NO interest here. I might just have to get that M3 or 'Vette Gotta have 3 pedals on da floor

lol, "stuck pig." So the squealing I'm experiencing now, with the regular Lexus brake pads, isn't normal; or is it???? It's driving me nuts! And, yes, my wheels get extremely dirty after a day or two. Squealing brakes can be any number of things but 2 things come immediately to mind: 1) you are getting close to needing a replacement set .. BTW how many miles do you have? 2) Pads and rotors have glaze or rotors have heat, hot spots (caused by riding brakes down hills) or aggressive driving (heavy on the brakes & accelerator) or just routine LA stop & go traffic! Is it a saftey hazzard? NO is it an annoyance? YES If you are LESS THAN 1 yr old & have LESS THAN 20K, Lexus MIGHT warranty it (usually the pads need to be above 50% remaining and not just worn out by/from normal wear & tear) It all depends on the relationship you have with the local dealer (At leat with us, it needs to be under 1yr AND under 12K AND no more than 50% wear otherwise, the client is buying them themselves (ie: NO warranty for you!) GOOD LUCK

Try DARKSIDE motoring in CHATTSWORTH California They offer chips & Mods for the IS (1at & 2nd Gen) http://www.darksidemotoring.com

Which deaker in LA area offers this? Inquiring minds want to know!! .. PLEASE?!

The price you paid was for a SERVICE ... most likely the 7,500 mile MAINTENANCE or 10K MAINTENANCE A major part of that MAINTENANCE is an oil change. As for taking my car to Jiffy Boob, EZ boob or any independent, "Are you high?" Ever looked at one of those monkey's?? I wouldn't trust them to change the oil in my lawn mower or kids' go kart, let alone work on a precision automobile Tell me, your going to trust you pride 'n joy .. your 40K (+/-) baby to some high school flunkie who doesn't know the difference between a power steering resivoir and a washer resivoir?? PAY FOR THE PIECE OF MIND, THE EXPERTISE AND THE VALUE OF DEALERSHIP MAINTENANCE. Way to often, I have seen one of those idiots either tighten the drain plug too much and strip the lower oil pan or leave it too loose, have the oil drain out and toast a motor! Do yourself a favor ... either do it yourself (DIY) or have a factory trained professional do it for you!!! Reminds me of a commercial for a dealership ... Guy needs a battery Guy goes to a "Pep Boys/Wall mart/Autozone place and the "mechanics (used loosely in this context) tell guy they have a battery. Cut to scene where "mechanics" are struggling to install battery. Next scene "mechanics" are beating battery with hammer saying "It'll fit ... we can make it fit" (all the while hammering on the battery to get 6lbs of baloney in a 2lb bag) Makes me laugh ... and cry (cause it has probably happened)

Thanks Piblo! Good to know that! Nice shape, but doesn't look aggressive at all... Want aggressive?? Get the G SPYDERS!!! Spend the $$

Let me say this .. it all depends on the store & the advisor whom you talk with. In our store, for example, if we see that you have an aftermarket radio (ie: NOT factory) and you complain of an electrical problem, right away we need to get some diagnosis time. Usually 1 to 1.5 hrs to diagnose/troubleshoot. If we find out the radio DID NOT cause the problem then ... NO charge. But if the installation compromised anything, well then let's just say "it's on your dime"... not the factory's My advise from an insider, if it's not factory OEM, stock or DESIGNED and approved/authorized by the maufacturer ... DON'T DO IT!

Yes, you are right, there are differences in performance in any tire. The same is true if you were to compare just the Dunlops and the Bridgestones that came on the IS depending on when it was made. It would be unreasonable to expect that that you could install significanly more cost-effective tires and get the exact same response on the track. But to say that you have to stick with the tires that the engineers chose for your car is a bit overboard. This is why they have such wonderful things at the Uniform Tire Quality Grade and service descriptions. However, I respectfully beg to differ on your description of the load rating. The load rating/index is the two or three digit number that preceeds the Letter, which is the speed rating. Together these two ratings are known as the "service description." I've never heard anyone refer to the load index as a proxy for performance. You can beg to differ , because now reading thru my previous post and the respone of our moderator (Bartkat), I was typing too fast and meant to say that the last series of numbers & digits on a tire are the speed AND Load capacities. These TWO elements make up the "performance" aspect of the tire. Now some people might say I not going to drive "X" mph so, I'll take this less expensive tire because it's speed rating is "Y" (and I won't drive that fast either). Now, will that tire work? YES.. Will it fit? YES ..Will it give the same performance? MAYBE.. Will most people notice the difference? Probably NOT. I tend to come from the school that if the manufacturer "spec'd" it on my car and unless i'm upgrading, I'll stick with what it came with. But that's just me!

The footnotes on the Lexus website point to around 15,000 miles or "substantially less" for tire wear with the 18 inch summer tires. On the 350Z boards, there is some very good buzz about these English tires called Avon. Specifically the M500 for summer tire replacement (over here on the left side, we don't have a lot of use for winter tires). The buzz is that they are unbeatable for the price. I've not tried them, so I have no real empirical knowledge; I'm just passing this along. Here's a link that my 350Z-owning friend sent me that describes the tires (with a big 'ol ton of customer reviews, which I like). http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Sizes.jsp?ma...model=Tech+M500 A 225/40WR18 runs about $117 (uninstalled), and the 255/40WR18 runs about $165 (uninstalled). Note that these are 'W' rated tires, as opposed to the 'Y' rated that come with the car. This means that they aren't rated for as high a speed. Fortunately, the 'W' rating is still 168 MPH, which is faster than the IS350 can go (unless you get rid of the speed limiter, and "do a few things"). The 'Y' rated tires that come with the car are good up to 186 mph, which is just wishful thinking... For fun, I threw two of each (thats the sizes I have on mine) into the shopping cart, and calculated shipping to Central California. Shipping was only $35 bucks from Tirerack.com. So that's about $600 +tax and installation, which looks to me to be a darn good deal. By comparison, the OEM Dunlop tires run $178 and $229 respectively (also from tirerack.com) Avon also makes an all season tire - the M550 A/S that is also hugely popular. Reviews for them at Tirerack.com rank them number 1 in AS tires. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?ti...Tech+M550+A%2FS I looked up pricing for them too (yeah, it's a slow morning at work so far). They're even cheaper at $115 and $134 respectively. Be careful when "changing" the load rating of a tire. The load rating is the "w" or "y" or "z" or "h" letter (ie:245/45/zr17 91Y) These LOAD ratings affect the way the car will handle and perform. Manufacturers spend lots & lots of money on R&D and tire design. Think that those Dunlops or Bridgestones ended up on your IS by accident? NO WAY .. it was carfully planned and executed by engineers. The tires might look like the same, smell the same and feel the same but in NO WAY will they perform the same IF you change the load rating. So if you want to change brands, be very very sure to get the exact same tire .. always compare apples to apples. Otherwise if everything is the same EXCEPT for the load rating then you are comparing apples to pineapples.

Well come on now ya'all Lets get a move on What day do we leave? From where in Santa Monica do we leave? What time do we leave? Got back on Monday from taking the 250 on a VEGAS (VEGAS BABY, VEGAS) run .. approx 278 miles door to door (frum Encino, CA) Comming back, got to hit 100 to 110 (running with nothing other than a Valentine 1) - funny thing though, the spedo has a red ring that lights up. I have the yellow ring come on @ 80. I commented that it turns red, the wife looks over and asks "when does it turn red?" I say @ 100+ Her reponse: "I thought we were doing 70, not 100+" Can ya'll guess what the next statement outta her mouth was? Stay tuned for the answer

Do you have the sports pak? Our IS250 6MT with Sport Pak has Bridgestone's. I was worried that the car was gonna come with Dunlops .. I asked the sales guy to swap out the Dunlops for anything else XCEPT for Continential. I was plesantly surprized when the car arrived with Bridgestones. Like Bartkat said: It all depends what is 'on the line" the day is ready for tires. One day it Bridgestones and the next it could be Dunlops (yuk)

Bought my first bottle of NXT a couple of weeks ago....it's the best stuff I've ever used! I love NXT! You ain't seen nuttin yet till y'all try ZAINO!!! It truly is da best stuff (Sal was previously a paint guy and formulated a polish/wax to 'seal in" the wet look, & provide protection. As a good friend of mine in the auto biz said: ZAINO is like armour for your paint !!

I don't think that's being picky at all. A turn signal not cancelling would drive me nuts, especially on a car like this. Even if we were talking about a new Kia instead of a new Lexus, I wouldn't want to put up with even a minor malfunction like that. lol.. well I forgot to tell them at the 5000... I'll make sure I do @ 7500... Its just so a great car.... I'm afraid letting the tech dive into something will only cause more issues... park the car on level ground. center the steering wheel ("L") in center of the steering wheel. Now, get out and look at the direction of the tires. Are they aimed (pointing) straight? If not and they are angeled, and turning any which way but "dead on center" that is why the turn signal is not cancelling. Could be the rim/wheel brushed a curb or the car was driven into or over a large divot or pothole. Could be the alignment is off. Alignments are covered for 12 months or 12K whichever comes first PROVIDED NO OUTSIDE INFLUENCE cause the alignment to go bad (ie: roling over a curb, large potjole, impacting a parking stop etc etc etc)

The car needs to be driven for a few miles (10-15) before the computer recognizes the "set" pressure and adjusts accordingly and the system "resets" or "recalibrates" . Obviously, something was askew and the lights illuminated telling you "Houston, you have a problem"