fblonk

If you are interested the positive terminal is replacable... Toyota part # 90982-05054 Good Luck, Fblonk

Both of my 98 LS's are off by around 3 mph. Thought it was just me. I love this site. fblonk

Thank you for the reply, but still not what I am looking for. In my first post I stated the the lock actuator/locking plate assemby is $300 from my new part source. I had done this side of the research before I posted. The entire assembly can be broken down, I can actually remove the small d.c. motor (the brushes are burnt) in the door lock power actuator. I have seen this done on a Lexus LX: http://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruiser...eplacement.html and here is a posting for the same procedure for a GS. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-second-...uators-diy.html I am trying to accomplish the same thing with an LS. No one will sell the actuator assembly by itself as it cannot be removed (2 pieces of molded plastic screwed together but base is part of the whole latch/lock assembly) , but can be opened and the motor removed. I need to know if: I can puchase the d.c. motor from a 3rd party vendor (same as the two posts LX & GS) OR: if the motors are all the same in all 4 doors of the LS. I can get my hands on a back door assembly (this is almost not worth the trouble from this person who has it) but if it will work, I will bite the bullet. I can get to a salvage yard and get one, but nearest LS in a boneyard is an hour away with no guarantee that the part will be there. I would rather puchase a new d.c. motor anyway, it is a better fix. I did purchase the motor as seen in the two posts, but they are different (see my initial post) Any help appreciated. If I find the motor somehow, I will post a step - by - step pictorial here on the fix and where to get parts. I know I cannot be the only person with an LS with a dead door lock actuator. Thanks, Fblonk

Hi, Thanks for the reply, but those are the power window motors. The Power lock actuator is actually built into the latch where the striker hits on each door. Thanks, fblonk

Hi, I have a 1998 LS with a Driver's door lock problem. The motor inside the actuator is worn (brushes) and inop. I dissasembled the door, removed the lock assembly from the door, dissasembled the lock and opened the actuator. I have read the posts about the GS door lock problem and rebuilding the actuator by replacing the motor. I ordered the motor (Mabuchi FC 280PT - 22125) and they are not the same. I went as far as opening the motors and trying to swap brushes (in the problem motor they are almost gone) but no dice. They are not the same. I have scoured the internet for info, or a motor number (no markings on the case of the problem motor). I know that I am going pretty deep, but the part is over $300 from lexus, and the motor should be under $10. Big difference, I don't mind tooling to fix the rare problem that I have with this car. I should have taken a picture, but didn't think of this until all reassembled. The differences in the motor are as follows: The problem motor connections are soldered, (no biggie) but the motor has posts to solder to The ordered motor Modular (plug type receptical in motor case that plugs into motor, motor side like an a/c recepticle) Brushes are different in shape and length Shaft is thicker in problem motor Problem motor has drive gear pressed on I believe that the motor itself is fine, and a new set of brushes will fix it. Any one who has gone this far and found motors or a place to find brushes please reply. Would an R/C shop be able to help? Also if you know that motors are the same in all 4 doors, let me know. I would like to avoid a boneyard motor or lock assembly, you never know how long they will last, but this may be my only option. If the motor in the actuators are the same, I would grab a rear door actuator motor as it will have less use (1 push on fob, vs 2 pushes on fob when unlocking). Thanks, Fblonk (I also posted this on ls 430 & 460 forum)

Hi, I have a 1998 LS with a Driver's door lock problem. The motor inside the actuator is worn (brushes) and inop. I dissasembled the door, removed the lock assembly from the door, dissasembled the lock and opened the actuator. I have read the posts about the GS door lock problem and rebuilding the actuator by replacing the motor. I ordered the motor (Mabuchi FC 280PT - 22125) and they are not the same. I went as far as opening the motors and trying to swap brushes (in the problem motor they are almost gone) but no dice. They are not the same. I have scoured the internet for info, or a motor number (no markings on the case of the problem motor). I know that I am going pretty deep, but the part is over $300 from lexus, and the motor should be under $10. Big difference, I don't mind tooling to fix the rare problem that I have with this car. I should have taken a picture, but didn't think of this until all reassembled. The differences in the motor are as follows: The problem motor connections are soldered, (no biggie) but the motor has posts to solder to The ordered motor Modular (plug type receptical in motor case that plugs into motor, motor side like an a/c recepticle) Brushes are different in shape and length Shaft is thicker in problem motor Problem motor has drive gear pressed on I believe that the motor itself is fine, and a new set of brushes will fix it. Any one who has gone this far and found motors or a place to find brushes please reply. Would an R/C shop be able to help? Also if you know that motors are the same in all 4 doors, let me know. I would like to avoid a boneyard motor or lock assembly, you never know how long they will last, but this may be my only option. If the motor in the actuators are the same, I would grab a rear door actuator motor as it will have less use (1 push on fob, vs 2 pushes on fob when unlocking). Thanks, Fblonk

Hi, Could be motor or transmission mounts. I have had to replace them on both my 98's when they hit 100k. It is very common. The motor mounts need to be done on a lift, but the trans mount is easily done in the drive. Motor mounts are around $100 each (2), the trans mount is around $45. Changing the trans fluid may also help. fblonk

Hi, I believe you are looking at the bolts that hold the caliper itself together. I think there are 2 17mm bolts holding the caliper to the barcket. The bolts you are looking at are Torx. Do not take these off! I know this is how the 98 ls is held together. I have used Akibono ceramic on the front and Oem organic on the rear and have had no problems so far. Fblonk

Hi, Don't know if this will help, but here goes. The harness that has the wiring for the bank2 sensor runs thru the harness that runs on the top of the cylinder and around the back. Any chance that the wire might be pinched? I just had a started done and I know that harness gets shifted quite a bit. I would start there. I replaced the VVT cam seals on my 98 and had the sensor out to get the cams out. I had no problems as lex does a great job of making the connectors only go one place. Good luck! fblonk

Hi, I know this thread is a little old, but I am going to add my two cents. I have a 98 LS that had cam seals leaking. It is a huge job. The dealer and all data quote 20+ hours for replacing them. I did it in my driveway and it took longer than 28 hours. The cam seals can be removed without removing the timing belt (at least on 98's) I have done it this way. The camshafts have to come out and be dissasembled for the cam seal to be removed. This can be done from the top. Lexus of Clearwater does not recommend replacing them as part of the timing belt. You can see the seal on the cam in the picture. The crank seal is very easily accessible when the timing belt is removed and should have been replaced. It is very inexpensive to do at that time. Good Luck, Fblonk

Hi Everyone, Here is an update: I ran out of time to do it myself so I have a friend who does excellent work and owns a shop in Clearwater. I purchased the rebuild kit for my starter and had it rebuilt. The contacts were worn to nothing. The car should not have been starting. Only 96K, but I do multiple stops and drive around 100 miles/day. While it was in the shop, I had the motor mounts and the transmission mount replaced. Both were in need of replacement. Everything is fine now and smoother than ever. I love my Lex! Thanks Everyone Fblonk

Hi, I am not sure about the 01 ls, but the 98-00 have a 10 mm Hex plug on the top of the throttle body assembly for coolant system air release. I found htis out from a Master Tech @ Lexus (Thanks Len!). I have used this when I did TB/WP recently. I removed the plug and filled it from here. SLOW but effective. I checked alldata, but could not see the throttle body assy. for 01 430's. Hope this helps Fblonk

Hi, Thanks for the replies! The red lite works on both remotes and the trunk opens occasionally with both. Kind of weird. Sometimes it works other times no. I only changed the battery on one remote, but both stopped working. Here is another tidbit, I recently sprayed silicone in the latch assembly of the trunk to lube it up (once a year I do this) and it seemed to start then. The battery change was done on my wifes remote at the same time, but my remote stopped working as well. I don't think it is the remote because both stopped working. Any suggestions with the actuator? there is no click and it doesn't matter how long I hold the button. Then other times it is fine. Help! Thanks, Fblonk

Hi, I love this forum! I appreciate the replies. I do all my own work, and I am not afraid of much when it comes to auto repairs. I have decided to order the rebuild kit for the starter and replace the contacts (and possibly Plunger). I am going to retain the new starter for now. I will rebuild and test the factory starter and if it passes, I will reinstall it. If it fails I will install the new one. I have researched this starter problem and have found that the common cause is the contacts in the solenoid wear and are relatively easy to replace. I have more faith in the nippondenso part, so I am going to try rebuild first. I only use auto zone for oils and cleaners, NOT parts for my Lex! Thanks for all your support! Fblonk (not Frank!)

Hi! I have a weird problem with my wife's 98 LS. I changed the battery in the remote and it works fine to unlock-lock the car, but the trunk button has become intermittant. Here is the weird part, my key for her car has also become intermittant for the trunk release. I didn't change my battery. I changed both remote batteries last year and no problem. Is there a way to check this? My remote works and then not, hers almost never works. The remote works for everything else with no problem. I figure it is the release solenoid, but not sure. Any suggestions would be great! Help! Thanks, Fblonk

Hi, I have searched the forum for an answer and I am not sure what to do. I have a 98 LS. The starter clicks and sometimes drags. I am open to rebuilding the starter, but I don't want to remove it (with all that work), rebuild it and find it is just a bad starter. I have read about the solenoid contacts wearing and I am sure I can get them. I purchased a bosch (??) starter and all gaskets to do the job, but now I am thinking that a rebuild is the way to go. The only thing making me hesitate is the dragging when it starts. The clicking has been happening for about a month, but the car always starts. I have replaced the battery and the alternator (it died thanks to a leaky ps vacuum valve, also replaced). There is no corrosion on the battery and both the battery and alternator are fine, I have had both checked since replacing them. The dragging has happened 2 times. It cranks like a low battery and then starts. I start this car about 20 times a day (it is my work "truck"). and it is very intermittant. Usually only in the morning it will click, but then starts, but it has happened during the day. Is the dragging part of the problem with worn contacts in the solenoid? I would rather keep my genuine Lexus starter and rebuild it if it will solve my problem. I can have the starter tested after I rebuild it at Autozone, but since this is an intermittant problem it may not rear its ugly head when tested. I am wondering if it is worth replacing the starter and the job is done, or rebuilding the old one and hoping that the click-drag will be gone. Do the worn contacts cause a drag and not just a click? Thanks, Fblonk.

Hello, I believe the 97 ls has a power steering valve located on the rack assembly that has a screen to filter fluid. Remove the valve and CAREFULLY remove the screen and clean it. I was having a problem with my 98 ls and was told by a Lexus lead tech that the older ones have a valve that the screen plugs and that may be my issue. I removed the valve and no screen. It is a newer style, but the 97 had the screen. It takes all of 20 minutes and the vehicle does not even need to be jacked up to access the valve. Good luck, Fblonk

I have 2 98 ls 400's. The wife (leadfoot) gets around 16 mpg in town. I (lightfoot) get around 22 mpg (with air on) around town. When I drive her car I get the same as my car. It definitely depends on the driver. I also get 28 or more on the hiway with both cars. Good luck!

Hello, I have K & N's in both my LS's, and I have noticed I get 21 mpg around town with the air on, 24 without the air on. I did not notice any more sound when I get on it. It is still as quiet as an LS should be. Fblonk

Hello, I bought the Mrs. a 98 LS around 2 years ago. When my acura was in need of replacement, I looked at an 02 GS 300, and was less than impressed. Not that the GS is a bad car, but I have been pampered by the LS. There was no choice for me. I looked at the LS and found another 98, this one with low miles (60K). It has been 4 months with my own LS. I get around 21 mpg with the air on, around 24 with the air off. The appointments in the LS are excellent. If you want luxury, there is only one choice. Good luck, Fblonk

Hello, I have a 98 LS (2) one with 130K and one with 60K. The 60K steering is easier than her sister. I have a friend at lexus. He explained that the valve on the steering rack has a screen in it. the more plugged this screen gets, the stiffer the steering. try removing the valve and cleaning it out. see if this helps. Fblonk

Hi, I just had a trans flush @ Lexus in Clearwater. I have 2 98 LS400's. 18 Qts of synthetic trans fluid was put in and 18 came out. Drain and fills are around 2 quarts. Hope this helps Fblonk

Hi, I had my mounts replaced by a local shop. I do most work myself, but the crossmember had to be removed. Had to be done on a lift. Special note, make sure the engine and transmission are properly supported before the crossmember is removed, or else the heater control valve can be broken. Motor mounts on the LS are recommended to be replaced at 100,000 miles. Both of my mounts were broken at 123,000 miles. After replacing them the acceleration and idle vibrations improved. Good luck Fblonk

Thank you for the reply. This is a great forum. I looked at a 01 LS today and it was a little rough, even w/ only 78K on the odo. Stopped and looked at a 02 GS300, looked great, 98 K and mint outside (they were closed) I am going back monday afternoon for the test drive. (may buy it on the spot, it is a lexus dealer and certified preowned). BTW, I am NOT selling the LS, but I will miss my Acura. Fblonk

Hello, I usually post on the LS forum, but I am looking at a 02 GS300, so I was doing some homework before I bought. I have always loved the Bimmer 7, it is elegant, sporty and fast. The problem comes down to what do you want? The lexus ls is a true luxury car. There is nothing like it. It is dependable, quiet, and powerful enough to get the job done. (I have had mine to 130 mph +) There is no sportyness to it. It just oozes luxury. If you want pampering and reliability, Go with the LS. You won't regret the decision.