darrylg33

NY Staties turn their RD's off after they have pulled someone over, mine never goes off when I pass them with someone pulled over, most Highway Patrol/State Patrol use pulse radar and only when they see someone coming fast so they can be misleading....but for my money my Passport 3500 has saved me many a ticket!!! Most will tell you Passport or Valentine One are the only ones worth the $$$

Bringing this one back from the almost dead but I wanna know if anyone has actually attempted the DIY charcoal canister change? Just wondering if it's too much hassle...D

Air is getting in there somewhere, that is the long and short of it. You need to find out where it's getting in....period...could be a simple gasket or O-ring not seated properly, these cars are extremely sensitive and the computers pick up any little thing that is out of the normal operating range. There is a smoke test that can be performed to see where air is getting in but it should be performed by someone who knows what they are doing and how to do it. Search here and maybe you can find someone who has done one succesfully...good luck!

I'm looking for a difinitive answer here on the this one, I think I have it diagnosed but would like to know for sure before I drop $150.00+ on the part. It seems to be a common problem on Lexus models that at some point the dual climate control either fails on one side or puts out less heat than the other side. So either your driver side blows hot and your passenger side blows cold or the reverse is true. This can happen whether it set on the dual mode controlling both sides or when you're trying to control the temperature individually. My '02 GS300 has the problem on the passenger side and I think it's the servo motor that can be found behind the glove box that is the culprit but before I drop the dough I'm wondering if I can get a difinitive answer from someone who has had this problem and fixed it. I've heard this problem also is common in the RX. I have already replaced the servo that controls the air/mix function but there is another one and I'm thinking it's bad too. Any one with any knowledge or who has had the same problem and fixed it--your input would be greatly appreciated...thanks...D

When I said I sprayed from the IM through to the injectors I meant each individual part where air can enter the system...so yes I sprayed on each coupler, around each part of the manifold where it' bolts together, and yes each individual injector. This is how I diagnosed it was injector 1, and actually it wasn't a bad O-ring, the injector wasn't seated properly so it was letting just a little air seep in the sytem at idle. A bad O-ring and gas will usually shoot out through the the opening in the ring due to the fuel pressure. Still waiting to see if the Lean code comes back but so far so good. Blexus I'm in Westchester...D

Blexus, I think I've diagnosed my problem, haven't gotten to the fix yet though--I sprayed some brake cleaner from the beginning of the intake right through to the injectors and the only stutter occured on the No. 1 injector--Looks like that O-ring around the injector is bad and I'll have to change it. Give the brake cleaner method a shot, you'll figure out where extra air is entering the system pretty quick. Let you know after I switch out the ring if the code clears....D

Blexus, the SRT comes with the piggyback for the ecu, which I assume compensates for the lean condition the old ecu would detect with the amount of air now coming through the system. Does your K&N system have the same setup? If not then the lean readout your getting would make sense as the stock ecu is just operating normally and can't adjusting for the excess air. Also, if you hook up a OBDII scanner the freeze frame data should indicate what condition the car was at when it encountered the lean condition. This may or may not give you some insight into what is causing the problem also. I haven't diagnosed my condition yet but I'll let you know what the deal is when I do...D

You should have no problems using Street Keys, I bought a '02 GS300 with no keys and recieved a reflashed ecu, two keys, and programming instructions from them and it's all good. Local Locksmith they recommended cut the keys, and I'm good. They even called me to make sure I had the instructions and everything worked out...I was pleased with the service....D

Cornwall, can you get to that pipe while the engine is running, if so what happens if you cover it, ie put your finger on it? Is it an inlet port, does the idle change? what happens...if it changes the idle, chances are you have a situation, I'm not familiar with the 1st gen motors...good luck...D

Let me know if changing your O2 sensor does the trick Blexus, I'm getting the same code but I'm not convinced it's the O2 sensor as the diagnostic for p0171 or p0174 go through a laundry list before you get to bad O2 sensor and it is an expensive part to change if it's not bad...thanks...D

EM_23_Timing_Belt_Installation.pdf There are removal and installation marks and it sounds like you did it right and I'm sure you have this guide but I'll attach it anyway. The most important step after setting the marks is to spin the engine twice to make sure your marks line up again. If it spins and stops then your not lined up, valves are coming in contact with the pistons and if you try and start it...well you know... :o The teeth on the cams and the belt are wide enough that if your are off a tooth, your marks will be off, make sure the timing cover your lining them up with is right also Manny, as far as a rough idle, did you separate or mess with the VVT-i pulley? That will cause your timing to be off and it will throw a code--usually p1349--are you getting any codes as LMT asked? Rare to have a rough idle and no code...let us know

My passenger seat on my 02 GS300 does go forward and back...the seat back control works also, the seat back will go up or recline. The problem is in the elevation and lumbar support functions, niether work. I unscrwed the seat, check all the connectors, all are good, tight, no signs of corrosion all wires looked good. I'm guessing the motor for that function is done...any other suggestions?? It looks like it could be a DIY, motor replacement, anyone else experience this situation?? Couldn't find this specific problem anywhere on the forums...thanks...D

Just did it webs, yes should remove the rad for easy access, it would be pretty tight but you could probably get away just removing the drive belt etc--in my case the rad and condenser was already off. Timing belt covers, drain coolant, and since your there, depending on your mileage, you may as well change your water pump also. If your a handy DIY guy then you might not want to do the water pump at the same time just know that you'll have to do the same process if it fails in the future. Here is the PDF supplied to me when I asked the same question--the search engine in this forum works like a charm :) Follow the timing marks or bad bad things will happen :( Have fun!! http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...p;hl=water+pump

Hey DG, I just did the timing belt on my car myself, and you can get away with not doing the water pump, but since it is recommended you should do it while you have nice easy access to it. I think the main reason to do both is if you just do the timing belt, and your water pump fails, then you have just doubled your labor costs--doing two jobs at two seperate times when you could have just changed the water pump while you had the drive belt off as it is right there. So the question is, do you want to roll the dice, hope your water pump lasts to your next timing belt change, or just change the $140.00 part and include it in the labor of the timing belt change. If you are changing the water pump, your going to loose coolant so you may as well have it drained and replace that as well. So basically it all goes hand in hand....hope that helps....as far as Toyota vs. Lexus you can search here and find many threads regarding both good and bad experience with both Lexus and Toyota service...and some horrors regarding getting your Lexus serviced by a Toyota dealership. If you can ask at the Toyota dealership if there is a service tech that knows the 2JZGE engine then the Toyota dealership would be fine as the engine in the Supra and the Lex are the same. The premium vs unleaded debate is also well represented here, search and you can form your own opinion on that one...I did and it will be premium for mine when it is up and running...good luck...D

Success!! I got the Tool from the ebay shop and it worked like a charm, thanks for all your help, the car couldn't start so I couldn't use the force from trying to crank the car to break it loose but I think that method would also work--good tip gserep1. If you are in the NY area, I'll gladly rent you the Holding tool so you don't have to buy it like I did, just send me a pm and we'll hook something up...thanks again for the responses...D

Great addition, Guy gave me the exact information I needed to do my timing belt and water pump change...thanks again Guy!!!

I've done the search on the timing belt change and the DIY pages on water pumps and timing belts so I know about all the materials needed etc. Problem I'm having is the 1/2 inch 500lbs ft. torque rachet I'm using is NOT budging the lower crank bolt. The Specialty Tool described in the service manual doesn't seem to exist and is not used by my local lexus dealer. Their suggestion was "get a bigger gun". I'm working on that but as a last resort does anybody who has changed timing belt/water pump had any experience with the "Harmonic Damper Pulley Holding Tool" http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...A%3AIT&rd=1 Just wondering if it actually works. I'm not down for "heating up the bolt", "jaming a pry-bar into the flywheel from behind" or any other of the suggestions I've gotten from some lesser garages around my way. I've been studying the forums and I agree that these cars don't respond well to such treatment. I'm working with a very experienced tech so I'm not attempting all this by myself. He too is working on getting me a higher torquing gun. I'm also not trying to save a buck by doing this job myself, the car is not mobile as it was a write off due to a light front end hit and I'm slowly putting it back together. The lexus dealer in my neck of the woods does not work on non-running cars and since the repairs the car needs are relatively minor it was the cost of the Labor that caused a mint 2002 GS Sportdesign with only 50,000 miles to be classified as "salvage" cough cough win for me :). This tool would be a last resort and I"m just wondering if it even works. This forum is great, used it a ton already, any response is appreciated...D

Let us know about the noise level with the new intake, I've heard the growl with the SRT is a bit too loud for some and they regret the switch. I'm more interested in the noise level when your daily driving as opposed to when you step on it-I expect it to be louder when you give it the gas, but if you can't talk on your hands-free under normal drivinng conditions....that's a problem...D

Guy, your the man, an overused statement, but in this case, it actually applies..thanks for the pdf's they will be put to good use...D

First I'd love to hear feedback on OEM vs Aftermarket, I know it's a long standing debate, but experience always tells the tale. I know it can come down to who's running the machine on that day in either case and I'm sure people have had experiences with both types of parts working and failing. I'm replacing the water pump on an 02 GS300 because the pulley wheel is twisted...question is: the back of the timing case cover seems to covering up one of the bolts and I'm trying to figure out a way to get to that bolt without messing with any of the timing components for obvious reasons. Any one had any experiences changing their water pump? Always appreciate the feedback...D

Is there a better price to be found than $465.00 that L-tuned is charging....I haven't found it yet. Looking to do the same with a '02 GS300 Sport edition...D

Thanks for the reply Andy...cheers