RDM

good luck on finding a 1998-2000 LS400 in a salvage yard.... let me know if you do. A quick yard search yielded about 30 of them. Sports and Imports here in GA specializes in Lexus only, they easily have a couple in stock all the time. www.car-part.com, enter your search criteria for a front door, then call to see if they'll part the motor. Lesser yards that only charge $250-300 for the whole door will gladly pull it in most cases.

Salvage yard should be $35-50 for a used one, it may not last that long but it's worth a shot.

Under the car is a horrible idea. Moving parts, hot exhaust, and road debris are just the start of possible issues. Run it inside. Usually the hood release cable is a good spot to go through the firewall, run it underneath the sill plates but as far away from OE wiring as possible to keep out any EMI.

Instead of bumping a very old, unrelated thread, why not start a new one? The neutral safety switch in on the transmission, where else would you think it would be?

You have a Lexus ES. You should post in the ES section as the LS owners don't experience the same issues. They are different cars you know.

Scan car-part.com for your model/year, they're a network of salvage yards. I honestly wouldn't think a mirror would run more than a $100 used, you can window glass for $40 all day long, a mirror isn't that much more of a demand part. You may just get a different color and need to paint it but that's better than paying double or triple the price.

I agree, check the coolant temperature sensor, a faulty or loose connection would confuse the ECU when starting under a warm condition in the wrong fuel map.

You just want them rolled down, or taken out of the door? To roll them down simply connect a 9.6V or greater battery to the window motor. To remove the window it's a bit more involved. The channels the glass rides in on either side of the door have to come out as there's a roller on each side of the glass that fits into it, but the glass has to be down to get the channels out anyway, they come out from the top of the door. With it down you'll see what I mean, they're secured in the door with large head philips screws, they're soft so use an impact driver to avoid stripping them.

Explain your logic here. A/C compressors, especially Toyota units are good for a lot longer life than that. Mine has 203k and is still fine, my brother's Camry and his wife's Corolla both are above 180k and have the original compressor, as does every Toyota I work on. If the hoses hold pressure they should be fine to use, though they deteriorate with age they don't just suddenly reach a point and go bad, neither does the compressor.

There is no easy way. You have to drop the crossmember which means the engine mounts must come off and you have to support the engine and transmission, this is of course after pulling the steering rack loose and the lower control arms. If you're doing it you should go ahead and replace the engine mounts while you're in there and go ahead and drop the transmission to replace the rear main. It's a good full day's work even with experience.

Any competent hydraulic supply place can rebuild all your hoses for much cheaper than new. I paid $40 to rebuild the hose from the compressor to the condensor after it began leaking. Pull them all off and go get a few quotes, you can try radiator service shops too, some of them rebuild hoses. Get new o-rings while you're there.

The 505 replaces the axle carrier side (spindle), I'm not sure if it's the same on the arm itself, you may want to email a supplier for a better answer. I know on my car only the spindle side is worn (badly), the arm side is still tight.

Google search "Adus 505", it's a replacement bushing in urethane, about $30 a pair. Thanks for reminding me that I still need to press mine in, they've been sitting on my to do shelf since Winter.

You might want to first post in the correct section. Your car model lists ES330, this is the LS400/430 section. As such the console design is a bit different from what we're used to, but I'm sure the cupholder is secured with screws that are covered by trim somewhere.

If they're new or rebuild starters then the gear should be fine. I would also suspect the flexplate to be the culprit, unless the starter's mount holes are stripped and it's not fully seated flush and tight in the block housing.

Just lots of prep. I hated the two tone look too, I have a '92 but I spent a few months tracking down the newer 1994 lower door and rocker mouldings and repainted it all in black, looks light years better, much like the LS430 (I have the 18" Sport wheels on it too). We wet sanded all the parts since they were different colors, primed, then painted them all off the car, this allowed me to remove the chrome trim strip on each piece so I didn't have to mask it off. If you plan on removing the door, fender, and quarter pieces, prepare to order the plastic clips that secure them, they typically break or don't hold their shape once removed. I spent nearly $100 at the dealer on the numerous fasteners needed but everything fits tight and it didn't require a bunch of tape at least.

I'd add a half for cleaning, I use a steel wool or soft bristle brush to remove the old sealant, makes it easier and quicker to reseal it.

We've discussed it several times in here, you can buy a pipe plug the same thread pitch and just delete the valve completely. Won't hurt a thing, mine has been capped for three years. Just make sure to dab some RTV on the threads to seal it tight. It's pretty easy to access it without pulling the pump.

What he said. Pry up and slide forward. 10 seconds.

The lower steel pan is easy to remove/replace, just unbolt it (after draining), clean the sealing area, apply a new gasket, and attach the new pan. Nothing else needs to be removed.

The door panels are cake to take off. I'm surprised you went ahead and decided to break the grilles, but to each his own. I would use a 4channel amp so you can still have fader control, you can run a 2channel if you don't mind not having the fade control front to back. Using one with a built in crossover will eliminate the need for capacitors on the speakers, and it will also keep the power level up, caps do 'use up' some of the power, though it's generally less than 5%.

I agree, clean car, horrid wheels. Was the previous owner a drugdealer?

The same place you can buy any OE part. The dealer, or a salvage yard. I doubt there's an aftermarket replacement available.

I don't understand your speaker removal question. When you pull the door panel off, the grille is no longer in the way. Are you saying you pried the grille off the door panel? In that case, no wonder they broke. They're not supposed to come off. 40x4 RMS is fine, you could go a bit less too if the price isn't good for a larger amp. Wiring is as any amplifier, it should have a schematic but any good online site will give you in depth details.

Look under the seat and tell us where there's room for an amp. It's in the trunk. Right side.