RDM

Not sure on your model, but the 1st gen mirrors come off without removing the door panel. The rubber weatherstripping pulls back at the door's edge to reveal two screws, the third one sits behind the tweeter mounted in the corner. Remove the grille and tweeter, the screw resides up behind it. Try looking around in similar areas before pulling the panel, but even then it's very easy.

The timing belt and drive belt are not the same thing. Nowhere near it. The drive belt runs the accessories, that's the one you see. The alternator can be rebuilt very easily, and locally I use C&S Auto Electric in Mableton, they'll do it for no more than $125 usually. I'd bet also that's the problem, the charge light comes on for a reason and the cable test doesn't prove anything, the proper way would be to remove the charging lead and test voltage at the post, the voltage will either be low or vary heavily, dropping when under a load. Get it fixed before you're stranded.

There is a filter, and it sits just above the pan. It's easy to replace and you'll do a good 50% fluid change in the process. Most new filters come with a gasket for the pan too.

The door windows aren't a lot of fun to replace, but if you're mechanically inclined you should be alright. The window slides in two tracks at either end, these must come out so that the glass can be fitted in the door, then they're reinstalled by lining up the bushings on the glass and sliding the tracks back in place. The biggest issue is the screws that secure the tracks are very soft, they strip easily. Take your time with it and you'll see how they're fitted after viewing the inner door structure.

Pull the rear seat to gain access to the top mounts, they drop them right out. It's very straightforward.

Both front mounted fans should be on anytime the A/C is switched on. Every car on the road is like that, though some only have one fan. I'd check both relays first, as well as all fuses. Then you can power the fans with a battery directly to test them if you don't find anything else wrong.

I had to comment, nice job. I went the sportier route with IS300 seats, but those look great in your car.

The light pops out of the panel from below, you can probably access the harness if it's close by. If not, pull the panel just enough from the bottom to slip your fingers and grab it, fish it to the hole, then plug it in. Snap the light back into place.

Seriously, aftermarket glass is only different from OE in color choices, I'd save the money and go that route in a heartbeat. I've always used aftermarket, PPG usually, with no problems.

Probably the same as every other LS430 with the OE 18" wheels. Not like it's a new thing.

If indeed it is the lower pan, it's simple to remove/replace. Don't let it scare you, just make certain to thoroughly clean both sides well before applying any sealant, and don't overdo the sealant. Too much is just as bad as not enough, a chunk can break off and clog the oil pickup, starving the engine of oil.

You can pull the throttle body easily enough and set on a flat surface, then spray carb cleaner on the back of the throttle plate. Let it soak for a while, then brush it off. Cleans it to brand new. For the rest of the intake, there really isn't anything heavy duty enough to clean the carbon buildup without brushing it, I always pull the manifold/plenum and send it to a machine shop to be hot tanked, that guarantees it's 100% new when you get it back. Most places charge $10-20 to let the pieces soak overnight. The stuff they're trying to sell you on may help a little, but it's doubtful you'll get your money's worth.

Wow, two years ago, I don't think he's got anything left guys.

I've been AWOL for a couple years figuring I wasn't going to keep the LS400 I bought but I've grown to love it and have thrown a ton of money at it. Now that it's looking good, I have one more thing I want. My question is simple, where on Earth can I get a FULL set of window/vent visors for the '90-'94 LS400? Weathertech sells the fronts only, which is absolutely stupid and looks like crap. In Japan there are tons of cars with full sets, but I cannot find the supplier or get any information as to who/where they're available. If anyone has any ideas I'm all for it, I really like the look, the added ventilation, and the idea of having something unique, because apparently these things are like a unicorn.

So I'm at a crossroads and would like some input. I bought a set of the new 18" LS430 wheels for my for my 1992 and along with KYB GR2s and planned on using Intrax springs to finish the stance, I have now found through a lot of hassle that the Intrax are NLA. My options are Eibach and H&R, both of which cost more and lower the car an inch. I don't mind the money, but one inch really isn't a drop at all, plus with the new shocks in place it will more than likely raise it a hair anyway, so for $300-320 I'm doing nothing but stiffening up the ride. Is there any other option on springs that I've missed, or does anyone have a source for Intrax, used or otherwise?

Isuzu Rodeos are the same way, no dipstick. They force you to go to the dealer just to check the fluid. But back on topic, I just drained my ATF and changed the filter and I'm certain it was at least the OE filter as the pan had never been removed. The fluid itself was probably original too, black and chunky, so horrid that as soon as I caught wind of it I rolled over and threw up. With the filter dropped I was able to drain about half the fluid, I've since drained the pan twice and filled it with fresh fluid both times and the 'surging' feel I used to get going uphills is gone. It's good to see other owners are getting good mileage from these units though as I'm more comfortable with the car's limits now. I was looking for a spare transmission for awhile there just in case.

This is a good read, I broke one of the janky plastic nipples that one of the hoses leads off and just plugged it, nice to know it's not afffecting anything.

While drilled rotors alow for more outgassing of the pads, the reduction in overall mass allows for less overall heat transfer. A blank rotor will be able to withstand a higher heat index that a drilled rotor. It's really a toss up of advantage/disadvantage, though a drilled rotor is lighter and the LS could use some reduction in rotational weight.

Guess I know what to price my parts at now. I'm parting one too but I'm not going to be overzealous like guy above and ask triple FMV for everything. That's crazy.

You don't pull the metal tabs off the panel. They're secured to the panel and contain a plastic clip, the clip comes out of the door. Just like virtually every door panel on every car ever made.

Some units do, yes. However the one I mentioned does two windows, up and down in one unit. Tied in right at the motor, the unit prolongs the pulse from the switch/ECU and holds it for full auto operation. I wouldn't have brought up a solution if I knew it wouldn't work.

Wow, was that with a 12 hour break? :D It was a pretty easy job the first time, cake the second, I just think it's stupid to mount the reservoir on the pump, that's just asking for a mess.

I have checked both, nothing out of the ordinary so far. I'm near the point of removing the bulb entirely, though again that's not something I'd prefer to do for such a silly problem. Check engine light bulbs on a car without emission controls is one thing, but this really shouldn't come to taking a bulb out to cover up a problem that shouldn't occur on a quality automobile. I'd expect it on a GM car, not a Toyota. But to share a little more since my 240 guys don't care, I received a set of KYB GR2s today along with a full set of 18" LS430 Sport wheels. There's a seller on Ebay moving replica units for $495/set, absolutely gorgeous finish, OE emblems on the center caps, very nice. Better than the $1000+ OE takeoff sets I've seen. Planning on using all the suspension pieces from the parts car to sandblast, powdercoat, and fit ADUS bushings in to tighten up the 14yr old chassis. But that's another discussion.

You guys are seriously two steps above 240SX owners. Though the majority of the guys I know have been around forever, the newer owners coming in with the 'drifting' fad are all 16, ignorant, and ask the same questions we all answered 15 years ago. It's bad. I'm open to any forum where there's a shred of maturity, even if it's an 'act'.

Bringing this back from the dead, but I found it through a related search and had some input for you guys on this. DEI makes an add on control unit for their alarm systems that enables full up/down control from the remote. The bonus here is that it adds full auto up and down from the switches as well. You can add one without the use of an alarm just for the auto function, though I don't know the Lexus's schematic yet so I don't know how easy this is. The unit ties into the window motor wiring, so I imagine you'd would have to go into each door for it to work. The unit is called a 530T window automation system, I used to sell/install them for years when I was younger and had good success, I've got on my 240SX and my 525i and love it.