RDM

Sorry for jumping on you, had a bad day debating other topics on here. Seems Lexus owners don't like opinions. Anyway, they're exact copies of the OE parts, and though I haven't had my OE off yet, they feel stiffer but not overly harsh. I'm thinking it will bring it back to the OE feel with just a bit more firmness. I've dealt with urethane parts on all my other cars in the past and these have a little more compliance, so it's good for those owners who don't like the idea of a 'race car' ride. I'm all for OE when it fits, but seriously, Lexus parts pricing is ridiculous sometimes. I've just bought a full front end parts assortment of tie rods, ends, ball joints, wheel bearings, bushings, etc. all aftermarket, the OE parts netted nearly what I paid for the car and that was insane. I don't mind paying the price if there's no other option, but even going used is a better choice most times than trying the dealer. When I switched up to 1994 rocker and door mouldings I paid almost $160 in just plastic clips to secure it all. I'm still feeling the burn of that one. Unfortunately my install is postponed due to a severe laceration on my knee I received on a customer's car, so it'll be a few weeks. If anyone else gets there's done first I'd like to hear feedback.

Funny, isn't it, that RDM, who stated that his preference is JDM Celsior headlights, dangerous in a country like the U.S. that drives on the right side of the road, would question whether or not Eagle Eyes headlights are DOT approved. Yes, RDM, the seller of Eagle Eyes headlights states that they are "SAE/DOT APPROVED, 100% STREET LEGAL". I can only go by what the seller says. I guess the seller could be lying. Why don't you find out and report back to us! RDM, stop throwing around the word Ebonics. I regard the way you used the word Ebonics as offensive and even as a racial slur. Python was communicating using abbreviations and jargon that are perfectly acceptable and common on car forums. I'm highly educated and understand everything that Python said and, by the way, I've come to appreciate him a lot for what he has contributed to this and another car forum in which I participate. Don't go running my down my "bud" -- or is that too slang oriented for you to understand? Python is a good guy, you and I can both learn a lot from him. Funny that you can't read I suppose. Did I say I was running JDM Celsior lights? No, I did not. I know the legalities of RHD lights. I merely stated my opinion of them which is clear to me the wrong thing to do on this forum unless you like personal and even character attacks. You assume I'm some 16yr old kid who just found this forum because my parents gave me their old, rundown LS400. Again you'd be wrong. You don't know a thing about me. I digress though. The seller is going to sell the product in any way they can. Are they lying? Maybe. Do I care, no. It's not my place to question a product that I have no interest in. Your 'boy' attacked me simply over a matter of personal taste, nothing more, so I questioned his judgment simply based on the apparent knowledge he seemed to have. If he doesn't have said knowledge, fine. Maybe he should point that out before going on a tangent. Ebonics is not a racial slur. If you take it that way, there's nothing I can do about it. You're again assuming, in this case that color is an issue, and that maybe you, your friend, and I are all of different ethnic backgrounds, why else would you play the race card? I don't even have anything to say there. Ebonics is to me and as I have read and been informed of just a horrid, cutup version of the proper English language, one that I don't subscribe to. If anything it only gives the writer the suggestion of ignorance, and that being the case why would anyone believe or put faith in their opinion? If you're too busy to type correctly, fine. In my opinion that shows a serious lack of effort on your part, and I don't like lazy people. Defend your friend all you want, you have that choice. And as you have that choice, I do as well. You may not like it, but coming after me about it is childish and pointless.

There is a link on lexls.com to pull the trouble codes from the ECM. You can then know if you have a bad coilpack, injector, or other part that's causing the issue.

You seem willing to argue with me even though I have stated nothing but my opinion, which you obviously don't like. That's fine, you have the right to disagree. Attacking me for my beliefs though is stupid. So let's bring facts to the table. Since you're clearly the expert here and no one can challenge your wisdom, are these lights DOT approved? Do they come with all the certificates and paperwork clearing the user for use on public roads? I highly doubt anything you're buying off Ebay from some Chinese supplier meets any sort of requirements for use in the US, nor do they warranty any issues arising from their usage. Secondly, do you have factual data proving these have a better light output, better beam patterns, are just as safe for oncoming drivers, etc? Can you give anything to clear the debate other than your opinion? Because it's been made readily apparent my opinion is worthless to you, so why should your opinion mean anything to me? Anyone can say that a particular part is better than another. But without fact to back it up you're still just speaking your mind. And as you've made it known, speaking someone's mind isn't allowed on here. Ball's in your court now. Maybe with your next reply you can try to use better punctuation and grammar so I can understand what you're writing. I don't read Ebonics.

Rubber is used on all cars from bushings to mounts because it's cheap. On a luxury car, like the LS400, the designers didn't want anyone feeling anything from the drivetrain period. So they make soft, mushy rubber mounts that have a lot of give, open your hood and rev the engine, it moves a lot. You don't feel it inside though. Problem is, rubber wears out a lot faster, especially with as much play as the mounts are designed with. There is no lifetime on a rubber mount even though you insist it, I've pulled engines from newer, lower mileage cars than my LS400 with torn and ripped mounts. They are a wear item and do just that. There's nothing wrong with replacing them with new OE mounts, but they'll still wear again just like the originals, they cost more, and they're still mushy. I prefer urethane (this is opinion, I know how you guys like to jump on people for speaking their minds, but relax) because it's more solid. Instead of loosing torque through the drivetrain while the engine slops around, it stays firm. Same with the transmission, you go over a bump and the shifter isn't bouncing around in it's mounting. You get a slight bit more NVH transmitted through the chassis depending on the type of car, but I doubt with as much insulation as the LS400 has it'll ever be noticed. Even if it's noticeable, it's a 17yr old car. There's bound to be buzzing or rattling panels somewhere in the car anyway. Again I'm speaking of what I prefer. Nowhere did I say this is law, or that anyone has to follow my lead. I find it odd that the members of this forum are so quick to attack anyone who's merely speaking their mind. If you don't agree, you have that right, but there's no need to belittle them because of it.

Nice attitude, calling a guy a liar without researching. Why would I state something not in fact? www.mybushings.com I posted a link last week. I have both engine mounts and the transmission mount sitting in my toolbox awaiting installation. $31.50 for the engine mounts, like $43 for the transmission mount.

ok then i have a set of 9004 hid kit which i had on my 92 that i will sell u,it has the high/low beam option...so yes there is a way to upgrade to hid's...ive had both on my car and the eagle eyes not only put out a better light pattern but clean up the front of the car because the stock flutted lights on the 92 are butt ugly! Maybe you should take a pill, no one is attacking you. I didn't ask if you could upgrade to HID, I know plenty about the drop in kits. My point is I don't feel the Eagle Eye lights look worth a damn. That's called an opinion. The OE Celsior lights look the best in my opinion.

The urethane mounts are actually cheaper, the engine mounts are only $32 each, transmission mount is $43 IIRC. I'm hoping to get mine in end of the week. For those inquiring, the transmission mount is as easy as it sounds, just brace the transmission and drop the crossmember and mount, swap it, put it back up. It's cake. Engine mounts don't look to be as fun but it's a similar deal to do them. The mounts you guys bought are the OE rubber one, a little softer, but it lasted 15+ years, so should the new one. I'm just a fan of urethane and would like a tighter feel.

Is this a new OE rubber mount you're using, or an upgraded one? I'm replacing mine with an Adus urethane mount next weekend, curious if you went that route. It's definitely cheaper.

Maybe it's just me, but those look cheap and janky as hell. I know there's no good way to upgrade to HID, but I'd rather work with better halogen lighting than put those gaudy things on my car. They scream Honda Civic to me.

Found this site while browsing prices, they're cheaper than most places and stock the newer Adus engine and transmission mounts for the 1st gen LS. I've ordered those along with a few others, go check it out. Details when they arrive and when I get time to put them in.

My 1992 had the original timing belt when I bought it with 161k. I had planned to do it when I had time and at 180k the water pump locked up, forcing me to do it sooner. I went ahead and did: timing belt water pump idler pulley tensioner pulley hydraulic tensioner crank seal cam seals valve cover gaskets/spark plug tube gaskets thermostat water outlet gasket distributor caps/rotors plugs/wires PCV valve I also had the intake manifold, plenum, throttle body, and valve covers hot tanked. Parts weren't bad, labor was surprisingly easy (I'm a 10yr Nissan tech). I also flushed the radiator and the block and replaced a ton of water hoses that were brittle as hell, and bypassed the coolant to the TB. Finally I deleted the EGR and all associated emissions BS. Though it's rare, the water pump is a serious issue if you're driving. Mine went out in the driveway, right after starting it. I got lucky.

The Japanese home market LS400 rear seat did not "fold" although there was a power slide rear seat option similar to that in the U.S. spec LS430 Ultra Luxury: http://www.cars-directory.net/specs/toyota...or/2000_8/5797/ I meant recline when I said fold. Good catch.

That would probably be me. :) I never checked it, so I am not sure. I am not that mechanically inclined and I cant afford a new pump. Just keep adding in thick PS fluid. <_< I have a older car (but a gas hog) that I am about to start using as a daily drive and continue to use my trusty 80s Mercedes on my days off and park the Lexus for awhile. :) 4 times out of 5 it will smoke when first started and it is indeed the PS fluid, because it dont smell like oil. I am about to just have one of our mechanics to quote me a price to rebuild the pump (if thats possible), because I have been wanting to give the car to my mother. I have been reading something about bypassing the valve, but I think that only takes care of the leak where it pulls the fluid it into the engine.... not sure if that eliminates where it leaks down on the alternator/under pan??? Can someone verify that? I am guessing worn seals is the cause of that. Good luck! First off, if you're using PS fluid, no wonder it's leaking. Toyota calls for the use of ATF in the power steering system. There's a ton of good resources explaining why. If you bypass the valve, you're plugging the hole completely. As long as you seal it with something, any leaks you may have had are fixed. Typically I just smear a little RTV on the threads before installing, telfon tape works too. You can buy a reman pump for about $130 at most auto parts places, I've had one for four years now, no issues. Just make sure to flush the system thoroughly first, especially if it's full of regular PS fluid.

Mine used to flicker heavily, the fluid level sensor was stuck. I finally just unplugged it. I think this is more common than we discuss on here.

In Japan the rear seat has both heated and folding options. It's possible to get the seat and all the associated wiring, but why? It's already a big car, unless you carry around dudes who are 8ft tall I wouldn't bother.

I called the local Toyota dealer and the service advisor said there is "no filter to change. It's a metal screen." They said $69 for drain and add. Does my 94 LS400 really have a replacement filter? Is he mistaken? Since the filter IS a metal screen, as in many transmissions, some will merely clean them IF there is anything caught in them. There is no paper/etc. element like in an oil filter. For those who want to change more of the tranny fluid during a drain and fill, do something that I discovered by accident. I had the front wheels up on ramps for a few days while doing some other work. I pulled the tranny drain plug, and since it was still dripping out when I was finishing for the evening, I left the plug out overnight. Turns out, about 5 quarts drained out instead of the typical 2 quarts on a level drain and fill. True. You can also run the engine for a just a second and let the pump push even more fluid out into the pan. And I do mean just a second, don't be the guy who starts it then goes in to make lunch and have a beer. 7-9 seconds is good enough to get more fluid out without risking damage.

I pulled and deleted my EGR last year on my '92, but for those asking there's a lot of hype behind the work. You do not have to remove the transmission or even lower it, but you will need to remove the passenger side catalytic converter as there's no room and not a suitable tool made to get at it the pipe fittings. When you do this, you'll probably break at least one exhaust stud on the manifold. I broke all three. Be prepared to drill them all and replace with bolts/nuts. There's also a bolt securing the pipe to the back of the head, you can feel it from the top but can't see it, you can see it from below but can't reach it. It's about a mile long too IIRC. The rest is cake. I had my welder just weld a plate on the plenum where the pipe and valve used to reside. No CEL, passes emissions fine. It's a lot more reassuring to know I won't need to do this again instead of the replacement pipe cracking in another 10 years.

These kids are replacing them for the sound and hopeful power gains, not because they need replacing.

Please don't fall for that scam. It's been going on for several years now, they randomly call numbers and promise a warranty on your car without any information what so ever. They're looking to fish your VIN as well as address and credit card info to sell to other people. I used to get calls daily at any hour from at least 3-4 dozen places offering this. I'm surprised you'd never heard of it. No one can offer and backup the claims these people make, they'd be out of business on day one if they even remotely held up to their promises.

You can also just bypass it completely, buy a pipe plug the same size and thread it in, then cap the vacuum lines. Steering isn't altered much if any from the year I've driven without it. Beats having to replace a leaking valve every few years and clean out the intake manifold.

Are you guessing here? Every car? Probably not. Neither my LS nor my GS turn the assist fans on with the AC. Those fans are controlled by the AC system pressure, and only after idling in heavy traffic do they start up. Otherwise the engine driven fan is enough. Why would I reply with a guess? I'm a 14yr Nissan and Toyota technician. I've never seen any model of either one that didn't trip the fans with the A/C engaged. My LS400 turns both on with the A/C.

I called the local Toyota dealer and the service advisor said there is "no filter to change. It's a metal screen." They said $69 for drain and add. Does my 94 LS400 really have a replacement filter? Is he mistaken? My 1992 has a filter. Same transmission, I don't see why yours would be different. Realize that service advisors are not technicians, they don't know all that much.

Most dealers will replace the seatbelt under warranty as it's a safety item. Call your dealer and see.

What "charging lead" are you talking about? What "post"? Voltage can be confirmed without disconnecting anything. With the right equipment, so can current. Not so. The charging lead is the large gauge wire that feeds current to the battery from the alternator. The 'post' is the terminal the charging lead bolts to. By measuring voltage with the battery still connected you're not getting an accurate measure from the alternator. With it connected you're measuring the battery voltage as well, disconnected you're only measuring the alternator's output, which is what you want.