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PureDrifter

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Everything posted by PureDrifter

  1. only a dealer can do this. it's programmed into the CBEST settings.
  2. i'd start by purging the air out of the cooling system. if problem persists, most likely thermostat and THEN heater valve.
  3. bank one is generally the drivers side iirc. you'll get crap mpg without fixing it. overall it's cheap to fix, just a new sensor (4 wire aftermarket (bosch) or oem) isnt too much monies. you MIGHT be able to do it, it's pretty tight on the LS400 not sure about the LS430. regardless it wont be more than an hour-2 labor at any reputable shop.
  4. I guess the most important thing is to get a quiet tire with good tread life that is cheap. I just don't want it to get me killed in the rain! again, that's asking a lot, especially for that price range. i've had good experience with the Yokohama AVID V4s and YK500 (or the like), as well as the General Exclaim UHP (not sure if it's available in OEM sizing, i had it on my old 18"s)
  5. yep, that's the only way, there's no other hardwire setup for pre 01 Lexus cars
  6. Thx for the suggestion. I'm not adamantly against a separate fob at all, but I'd rather have a built in remote key if both were available as factory options. Since I'm not looking for an aftermarket solution, looks like the separate fob is the way to go... just gotta wait foor a reasonably priced HYQWDT-C to pop up on eBay. Thanks again :) 1pc 3button key/remotes weren't offered until 98 across the Lexus range.
  7. Thanks for the reply. I am trying to replace rear emblems. To clarify, do you mean 95 - 97 interchanges within those years, then 98 - 00 interchanges in those years but as an example, 97 emblems will not fit on a 99? Challenge is that there are a fair number of earlier emblems for 95 - 97s but 99s are rare. I found some plastic chromed ones on ebay but I am skeptical of their quality. avoid ebay emblems. hmm, i actually don't remember posting this, but i'll double check in the next couple days, i think I might have reversed it for front/rear emblems :P
  8. you realize that there isnt a readily available harness in the US that lets you control ALL the factory speakers. (primarily the subs)
  9. that smoke should be coming out your mouth at this point. 1-find a new mechanic 2-buy parts from reputable toyota suppliers (denso, aisin, etc...) 3-i run either Bosch or Mobil1 oil filters, no problems.
  10. I have a 1998 GS400 and I have the same problem as the original poster. I can't find a way to deactivate the inmobilizer. The altenator is working. The battery is brand new. And all the fuses and relays are working ok. I actually managed to start the car a couple of times (reight after I disconnected and reconnected the battery), but overall the car wont start. Is there a key combination insert/remove combination or a pedal press/depress combination that may disable the inmobilizer? your car actually has an immobilizer unlike the OP, if it is indeed an immobilizer problem then no, you can't do anything with a combination of anything. you need to have the car serviced.
  11. its going to be a ridiculous amount of time and money, and honestly, it wont be as useful as even a $200 aftermarket add-on system.
  12. 95-00 LS400 wheels will also work. pre 95 will NOT clear your brakes.
  13. they will fit a 89-94 LS400 without any problems. will NOT fit 95+
  14. i believe, but not sure, that they ONLY function as the parking brake. mind you, you would only have to drive on them a couple times (with the brakes on) to toast the lining.
  15. python, go back and reread the part where i said "STRAIGHT Dexron Won't work." what you linked is a product that specifically states it is compatible with Type-IV fluid. go walk into one of those auto shops and say that your trans uses Dexron fluid and im pretty damn sure they won't put in "MaxLife" unless you ask for it. the Maxlife page even specifies that it "contains a blend of superior base oils and a unique additive package" which is not "pure" dexron, although it may be compatible with such. if you want to start that up, Mobil is the company that supplies Toyota with the Type-IV fluid, and is commercially available through them as JWS 3309. http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorO...l_ATF_3309.aspx also, the SAME FLUID is crossreferenced to Ford, Volvo, Saab, and others. i was very specific in what i said, normal everyday Dexroniii/mercon does NOT meet Toyota T-iv requirements, and if his mechanic went and put in "normal" dexron, he is either an idiot, misinformed, or possibly both. do u know of any straight dexron 3 without mercon in it? cuz i dont sell it.....also compatible means it can be used instead of, doesnt mean it can or should only be mixed with...there has been lots of debates be most everyone here stating type iv is the ONLY fluid to use.....and that is not true Do you even know what Dexron and Mercon are? They are SPECIFICATIONS! meaning, they are not actual fluids or materials or additives, they are lubrication standards. Most fluids on the market meet BOTH the Dexron III (or VI) AND Mercon requirements because they are very similar. why are there TWO different yet separate specs you ask? because General Motors created Dexron (spec 6417-M) and Ford created Mercon (spec M2C185A). i don't care what debate has occurred, you addressed what I specifically wrote, and I am going to defend my statements using veritable facts and empirical data until you either quit giving dime-store opinions and links or put some actual facts on the table that can back up your claims. Again, I claim that DexronIII/Mercon compatible transmission fluid is NOT compatible nor recommended in lieu of Toyota T-IV transmission fluid unless it is SPECIFICALLY noted on the fluid that it is compatible.
  16. Cool find there about the Mobil ATF 3309. That link seems to say that Mobil made this product to the specs of the AT manufacturer, Aisin AW Co. Ltd., (which makes the AT for Lexus, Toyota, ... http://www.aisin-aw.co.jp/en/index.html ). This makes a lot of sense, as I think it's clear to most that having the "right" ATF is important. I guess Toyota then renames it Type-IV (right? are they identical?) and puts a Toyota part number on the AT as well. If Type-IV = Mobil ATF 3309, can the Mobil be found for any cheaper? I've got 11 quarts of Type-IV sitting in my garage, so I won't need to know any time soon. This Mobil product does then seem different than that Valvoline MaxLife stuff - the Mobil was developed specifically for these AT's, whereas the Valvoline aims for compatibility across a wide range, including these. Right? Or am I doing a little too much reading between the lines. Agreed about the dangers of misinformed general mechanics. that's about right, but i do recall reading somewhere that if you traced T-IV all the way up, it was Mobil who made it in the first place. Though Aisin may have made it in house i'm not entirely sure.
  17. Exactly right. Until a battery is developed that weighs 150 pounds when fully charged, nothing when discharged, and gives a range of 400 miles and takes two minutes to recharge fully, the electric car is waste of time. That movie "Who Killed the Electric Car" makes Michael Moore look like Einstein. And I think Moore is an idiot, on the same level as Al Gore. I understand the technical reasons for the failure of the electric car were defined some years ago - by Sir Isaac Newton..... assuming by battery you mean a substance/object that stores energy potential; we already have that, it's called gasoline.
  18. python, go back and reread the part where i said "STRAIGHT Dexron Won't work." what you linked is a product that specifically states it is compatible with Type-IV fluid. go walk into one of those auto shops and say that your trans uses Dexron fluid and im pretty damn sure they won't put in "MaxLife" unless you ask for it. the Maxlife page even specifies that it "contains a blend of superior base oils and a unique additive package" which is not "pure" dexron, although it may be compatible with such. if you want to start that up, Mobil is the company that supplies Toyota with the Type-IV fluid, and is commercially available through them as JWS 3309. http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorO...l_ATF_3309.aspx also, the SAME FLUID is crossreferenced to Ford, Volvo, Saab, and others. i was very specific in what i said, normal everyday Dexroniii/mercon does NOT meet Toyota T-iv requirements, and if his mechanic went and put in "normal" dexron, he is either an idiot, misinformed, or possibly both.
  19. you forgot to add how it takes ~6 hours to recharge.
  20. check the wiring harness for shorts, then look at the ECM. if all else fails, replace the solenoid anyways as it's likely not working properly under pressure.
  21. its rare for the car to jump timing if there hasnt been any recent work done on it. may want to look at the tensioner.
  22. a-SS Lines only really improve OLD factory lines, new OEM rubber brake lines for ~1/4 the cost of SS lines will give you the same feel. b-drilled/slotted rotors don't improve "stopping" power at ALL. they only (repeat ONLY) combat brake FADE. you may actually notice a DECREASE in braking power (though extremely slight) due to the decreased surface area of the rotor.
  23. Lexus never sold Manual CDs, only the hard copy books. (softcover) i know, i have one :P a good consumer quality scanner and some patience is all it takes. i can make a PDF of this webpage if i wanted to.
  24. the fuse on the driver's footwell fusebox that is ever so conveniently labelled "Air Suspension". :P
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