PureDrifter

oh joy this thread's back

there are 2 "brake" lights.

one is the parking brake light, if this randomly comes on while driving, 99% of the time it's due to the brake fluid reservoir being low or the sensor inside it (float) being stuck.

the other is the brake WEAR light, it only turns on for one reason, take a guess what it is.

Do I have to pull back the wheel well to get to this connection???

most likely.

strut rod bushings for sure. tbh i have the carson polyurethane ones and they ride/feel fine and are much cheaper, but squeak/creak like hell, regardless of the lube used.

Hey there all.... i know of a couple of these billet grills in Australia

if anybody is interested let me know and ill chase them up and get a price for you

Ed

CEL51R@hotmail.com

I want one of those grills for my 1992 LS400, send me a link or some info on where to buy one. thanks

you realize that guy hasn't been on LOC in about a year right o.O

i had this exact problem, i had all sorts of tests run and in the end the starter was failing, replaced with brand new for around 1000$ U.S. with labor, she runs and starts like new again

grab some tools, buy a starter, some beer and take off a friday.

a 3 day weekend is all you need.

I was hoping to make the repair maybe next year or so..

Gossh I really want the Lexus..

But i dont know anymore..

bottom line is that if you can't afford hte repairs reasonably quickly, you end up playing russian roulette every time you run the motor, praying the belt doesnt snap and DESTROY the heads and pistons.

Save your money. I doubt the Lexus engineers intentionally left out 50HP because of a software optimization.... Maybe 0.5 HP could be gained but 50HP, get real.

actually a piggyback fuel controller has shown gains of up to 30-40rwhp when tuned properly on the 1st gen 1UZ engine.

too bad these "chips" are worthless garbage since lexus never made an ECU that used replaceable ROM chips.

89-94 is non-interference

95-97 & 98-00 is interference.

Having driven a 90 LS400 from new until 183,000 miles and a 2000 LS400 from 3 years old/ 38,000 miles to its current 110,000 miles, and having owned both at the same time and driven them on alternate days, I'm doubting that installing new shocks on your 99 LS is going to give you what you want.

I wouldn't expect the 90 LS and the 99 LS to have much in common when it comes to how "planted" they feel -- the main thing the two cars have in common are their model names -- LS400. My 2000 LS rode and drove waaay different than my 90 LS even at 38,000 miles.

Are all the suspension bushings and other suspension components on the 99 LS in top notch condition? Do the strut bar bushings have more than 80,000 miles on them?

My 2000 LS never felt as sporty and "tossable" as my 90 LS did but it wasn't designed to be that way.

thanks for the information, any thoughts on changing the ball joints with over 115k on them.. just curious if doing this before the ball joints go bad will provide any increase in ride or handling for a 98 ls..

thanks

not really, well not drastically anyways.

and no, you can't do it on ramps. if you've never done a suspension job and arent handy enough (or willing to dig deep into the car) then just have it done. it's not an overly complex job if you'vbe done some suspension work before, or even i you've got a friend there willing to help you who has, but alone i'd say you're endangering your own well being.

plus you'll need a jack, jackstands, and an impact wrench (good one).

Their alluminum wheels right? put em at 100 ftlb

steel than put em at 90 ftlb

or else just take that nifty impact and zap em down till their tight. who cares!!?

wow that's probably the worst wheel torque advice i've ever read in my life.

please disregard this guy, you'll end up warping your brake rotors and/or snapping a lug nut. regardless of steel or aluminum you don't generally need >80 ft/lbs of torque on the lugs, ESPECIALLY on these cars given that they're hubcentric.

Why not just buy 2 new solenoids instead of a whole tranny.

Hey it's great (and sad) to see that someone else has the exact same problem. Let's me know that what I was looking into is what's wrong with it.

Right now I'm looking into buying a used transmission and swapping the solenoid and O/D sensor from the used one. The used trans has 106k on it and it's $300.

Whereas the brand new solenoid and sensor from Lexus would be $400.

I'll do some testing next week in my auto class and then report back.

labor (if you're not doing the work yourself) to install a trans is a LOT more than labor to install 2 solenoids since you can do that without taking the trans out of the car.

Nitrogen gas under high pressure!!! :o :o :o

What is it and what it does?

Thanks

post a part no.

thanks for that, that is real useful info, sort of stuff i wanted to know not weather im crazy or not :P

So with the ball joints are any mods needed for that (just for clarification)? so thats it just source that out and all in a few hours im done hey sounds better by the minute.

Thanks again

as long as you use the right 1995-2000 LS400 front lower ball joints there shouldnt be any modifications.

don't forget to buy shims for the pads and the right mounting bolts (normal '95-00 LS400 bolts)

instead of questioning the guy as to why he would want to do whatever, let him do what he wants, it's his car. ;)

anyways, OP, better and cheaper method would be to use 2LS 4piston calipers and rotors, they are MUCH MUCH cheaper than the Supra TT brakes, and are actually lighter and offer ~85-90% of their braking capability for ~40-50% of the price.

to put 95-00 LS400 front brakes into an 89-94 LS400, you need to replace the calipers and rotors (both will bolt right in, no modifications needed), and 95-00 front LOWER BALL JOINTS because the calipers will not clear the original 1LS ones as they are not notched for clearance. also, you will need wheels to clear the brakes, High disk wheels for sure, just get some that will fit a big brake kit and you should be fine.

i prefer the citrus hand cleaner+ lexol soak in the sun method.

works GREAT

citrus cleaner+hide food would probably be even better :)

what exactly do you mean when you say "hub bolt"?

are you referring to the wheel stud that the wheel is bolted to?

I used McGuires Leather Cleaner wipes to clean the armrest and was very diappointed. Cleaned well but also removed some of the finish (or color?) of the leather. My mistake for trusting without testing but I want something that will not repeat that problem and saw Lexol noted. What is your experience with that product, does it also remove the color along with the dirt?

what color exactly are you referring to?

Your car is 20 years old though, anything within 10 years I wouldn't paint if I could help it...

Painting it properly will increase the value of your car...

corrected :)

you also need 2 fully functioning hands.

why do i have so little money....

I want to buy all of those for my ls.

AFTER you do wheels, suspension and get the stance right.

THEN, and ONLY then will you be worthy of running puddle lights without being laughed at constantly.

Now if they had strut rod bushings for my GS.

Prices would help also.

so your GS currently has the Original Bushings? do you feel slop at high speeds?? ive used Poly bushings in my old Acura Vigor, and it really stiiffened it right up. corners were a blast to take!

my friend had poly control arm bushings and they were just stiff as *BLEEP*.

poly strut rod bushings arent nearly as bad, though they do squeak from time to time.

finally, have been waiting on these:

http://www.daizensporttuning.com/model/lexus-ls.html

really hope they will be available next month, as the site states.

ehh, i don't really give them much credit as they have a history of not holding up on their dates. i would however grab a set of steering rack and sway bar bushings.

polyurethane control arm bushings ride WAYY to freaking hard for the heavy-!Removed! LS.

you mistitled a questions about a GS300 as an ES300 and put it in the LS400 forum

go get some hubcentric rings.

If the brakes work well but it takes alot of pedal travel to make them grip you need to rebuild the calipers seals.

it is an easy job as i just did mine and i now have brakes again .

It is basiacally the seals holding the piston are old and letting fluid pass them instead of applying the pressure only to the pistons.

I have an extra OEM set for my 98 LS front and rear $100 which will do all 4 calipers.

if it were the seals wouldnt you see a brake fluid leak? at the pistons?