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mdscorp

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Everything posted by mdscorp

  1. mdscorp, I have a brand new and a used changer for your 2001 es, They both include all the panels for a first time install. Leave your email or pm me for all the details. Was there ever a cd changer installed in the car ? No, it comes without it from factory, the radio has support for CD player and I think it has a connector and probably a wire harness for it, but the glove compartment would need modification to fit the changer, I understand there are cd changer glove compartment conversion kits ? how much do you want for the changer ? any other suggestions so i can install it ?
  2. I purchased a 2001 ES300, it doesn't come with the CD changer but the head controls support and have the wiring for it. in this model the cd changer goes in the glove compartment. I woudl like to try to find one and install it, anybody knows where I can find one ? has anybody had to do this ?
  3. the people that is posting they use additives with your gasoline, is this using regular gasoline and the additives or you use the additivies regardless ?
  4. I just purchased a 2001 ES300 in MINT condition, only 29,000 miles on it, it rides smooth as a feather I love it. I read the manual where the use of high octane gasoline is a must to keep the engine running smooth and to keep performance at it's best. At the prices gasoline is today I am trying to find out the general consensus on this, is it really worth it to pay $3.29 the gallon of premium gasoline or is this only a recommendation and regular gas can be used without harming the lexus smooth ride and engine performance ? thanks all
  5. thanks for the explanation. I see one end (the fan end) is really easy, I am trying to figure out the other end how hard it is to replace, does this has to be done from underneath the car or by taking the passenger side wheel and working through here ? do I have to take out the whole fuel injector assy and work from top ? thanks again...
  6. I found out that this is called PRESSURE HOSE and is part of the cooling system.. my question is, how is this hose related to the P/S system and how is leaking P/S fluid ????
  7. yes, you're right, it is the pressure hose. Now a question, how is this pressure hose to the cooling fan related with the P/S system as to leak PS Fluid ??
  8. so instead of buying power steering fluid I just pour regular transmision fluid with drexon atf ? after searching the whole day I finally foudn the leak of the power steering fluid, it is right under the fuel injector assembly, this is a hose that I think goes from the punp around the angine, under the distributor and connects to the engine fan in front. long hose I guess difficult to replace. Does anybody knows the technical name for such hose ? I been looking in different online catalogs but could not find anything like it. thanks all I found these hoses from a lexus online catalog for a 93 es300. Don't know which one you need to replace: http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ind...amp;catalogid=1 thanks is a shame there ar no images of these hoses. so you all know what I am talking about I tool and uploaded some images.
  9. so instead of buying power steering fluid I just pour regular transmision fluid with drexon atf ? after searching the whole day I finally foudn the leak of the power steering fluid, it is right under the fuel injector assembly, this is a hose that I think goes from the punp around the angine, under the distributor and connects to the engine fan in front. long hose I guess difficult to replace. Does anybody knows the technical name for such hose ? I been looking in different online catalogs but could not find anything like it. thanks all I found these hoses from a lexus online catalog for a 93 es300. Don't know which one you need to replace: http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ind...amp;catalogid=1 thanks is a shame there ar no images of these hoses.
  10. after searching the whole day I finally foudn the leak of the power steering fluid, it is right under the fuel injector assembly, this is a hose that I think goes from the punp around the angine, under the distributor and connects to the engine fan in front. long hose I guess difficult to replace. Does anybody knows the technical name for such hose ? I been looking in different online catalogs but could not find anything like it. look at the images to get a better idea
  11. so instead of buying power steering fluid I just pour regular transmision fluid with drexon atf ? after searching the whole day I finally foudn the leak of the power steering fluid, it is right under the fuel injector assembly, this is a hose that I think goes from the punp around the angine, under the distributor and connects to the engine fan in front. long hose I guess difficult to replace. Does anybody knows the technical name for such hose ? I been looking in different online catalogs but could not find anything like it. thanks all
  12. I see my 93 ES300 needs power steering fluid with ATF, i have gone to different auto supply stores but can't find it, where can I find this ?
  13. A power steering fluid leak could be from: 1. steering rack o-rings 2. power steering pump seals 3. hydraulic radiator fan 4. damaged hoses/lines that connect 1, 2, & 3 Check them all!! the mechanic I took the car to tells me the leak is from the steering rack and he quoted me over $1,000 for the job, does this makes sense ?
  14. i noticed a few days ago my 93 ES300 was leaking power steering fluid, filled it up and in about 1 hour lost it again, instected the high pressure hose and the low pressure hose and didn't see anything coming from them, lifted the car, moved the steering left and right and could not see a leak. anybody has any ideas ?
  15. I am thinking about replacing the axle assy on my 93 ES300 after researching parts in the internet I realize apparently the right axle is different of the left axle ? I have also seen different brands of reconditioned axles. can anybody recommend some brand over others ? is replacing the 2 axles a DIY task ? thanks
  16. Well, I wound up going to advanced autoparts, purchased a K&N filer adn Mobile 1 oil 5W30 did the oil change. I also purchased the SeaFoam but wasn't sure where to put it in order to clean the cilinder head and valves so I postponed it for next oil change when I find out more of how to do it.
  17. I found eBay item for lexus es300 claiming ot be NIPPON OEM FILTERS part #: 08922-02011 is this a valid part ? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lexus-ES-GS...1QQcmdZViewItem thanks
  18. Not so, Iv seen many test that very clearly shows that synthetic oil gives greater protection especially after just 1000-2000 miles when Petroleum oils have already lost quite a bit of their properties, especially in these engines since they have such hot cylinder head temps which has little to no effect on the synthetic and breaks down the petroleum fast. This fast break down is VERY pronounced in "Multigrade" petroleum oils, (You know, exactly the oil recommended and no doubt what you use 5W30W) This is because 5W30W "Petroleum" oil starts its life as a 5W base oil, then large polymer chains are ADDED to get the 30W rating, those chains break down FAST especially in an engine with such high cylinder head temps, which produces small chains with an open electron charge at the ends. These ends attract grim and form SLUDGE. Here is an interesting fairly non biased (not done by some Amsoil or Mobil salesman) post from some NASA Engineer "Tribologist" that I think explains it well enough. http://forums.yellowworld.org/archive/index.php/t-1136.html Also that first 15-30 secs when you start your car up in the morning especially if it is cold outside is where you get allot of your engine wear, your internal parts are reciprocating with minimal lubrication that was left from your oil residue the last time you shut off your engine. This is where synthetic becomes important. The residue of synthetic has FAR superior lubrication and viscosity properties than regular oil, allowing more protection until the pump brings more to the top of the engine. Second, synthetic maintains viscous properties at far lower temperatures than any petroleum based oil and will be pumped to the top of the engine and flow through those journals much quicker. I personally get approx. 1 Mpg more using Amsoil 5W30W than I did using whatever petroleum based oil that was in it when I got it. I get 1 Mpg more in my Jeep also using synthetic. That's not much but doesn't hurt, saves me maybe $2-3 a month in fuel tops. But in the 6 months life cycle of the oil that's about $12-18 to help offset the cost of synthetic, Plus IF I were to use petroleum I would never let it go past 3k for an oil change, with synthetic I have no worries going to 5K at all. You will notice Im not saying let the oil go to 12-25K miles, just only WHAT THE OWNERS MANUAL RECOMMENDS which is 5-7500, which as far as im concerned in these vehicles is too far for petroleum oil, the oil simply can not handle the heat these engines put out. I have also come to the almost obvious conclusion that one of the main problems that these 3400+ people with engine failure due to Oil gelling is that these people most likely are thinking that they are doing everything exactly right, many probably think that they are not putting hard miles on their engine so opt for up to a 7K+ oil drain interval that the OWNERS MANUAL recommends, probably using whatever "Bulk" multigrade oil the dealership is throwing in there, running it for at least 6K up to maybe 8K miles then a couple 1000 miles down the road when that petroleum oil is clogging those drain holes from the cylinder heads thus making it "appear" as though they are as much as a full 1 quart LOW, they put in another quart which is Overfilling the engine which just makes matters way worse, causing the oil to froth and oxidize way quicker. That multigrade petroleum oil was actually history 4-5K miles back. So technically since I spend on average $45-52 for an oil change, (I buy the oil and filter) then take it to Carmax (They have certified mechanics not the $6 help you get at jiffylube) which charges $29 for a change and $21 if you bring your own, I can also usually within that 6 months get a coupon in the mail for $5-10 off an oil change that I keep and put aside, so usually $15 or so is what I spend so I don't have to screw with oil disposal, I also stand right there and watch to make sure everything is done right. The Amsoil & Filter are $32.50. ($4.50x5 +$10) A normal (petroleum)oil change comes to be just under $32 and is good for 3K MAX. IMO That's about 3-31/2 months. so $64 for 6 months. I if you call it that "Let my synthetic go" for 5-6K which is 6-7months which is extremely excessive for synthetic & I guarantee my Amsoil with 5K on it is performing much better, is protecting & CLEANING my engine better, than the petroleum oil is the day after you put it in. Regular petroleum oil change $64 for 6 months Amsoil for 6-7 months is $45-52 THEN I save approx. $12-18 in fuel cost using synthetic for 6-7months. lets say an average of $15 savings from the $52 oil change comes out to approx. the equivalent of $37 compared to the guaranteed $64 I would spend on petroleum based oil. You know when you first put in that fresh (petroleum) oil how your car sounds and runs? real smooth and sweet for the first few days, well my car keeps that fresh oil change sound and feel throughout the whole 6 months, because my oil is not breaking down nearly as much every mile I drive. Ever wonder why everyone clearly states emphatically to never put synthetic in your brand new car with 0 miles on it? It is because petroleum breaks down and does does NOT protect your engine even close to as well as synthetic, the rings will take a long time to "seat", what causes the rings to seat? metal on metal engine WEAR. So run petroleum oil for the first 500 miles then drain it out change oil filter, put in synthetic and your GTG. That fact alone should clue you in on how much better Synthetic oil protects your engine, regardless of drain intervals. As you can see I would actually spend MORE $$ to run petroleum based oil since there is no way I would trust any multigrade petroleum in this engine much past 3K miles but I have no problems at all trusting synthetic oil to 5-6K which is well within recommended drain intervals. This whole discussion reminds me of some Religion Vs Reality debate, kinda funny actually. We have the religious (petroleum users) on one side preaching out of that old bible, "believing" and having "faith" in that old petroleum oil. Then the Atheist (synthetic users) simply going by common sense and empirical evidence and scientific fact that quite clearly is on their side. I know what I know, others believe what they believe. B) I am planning on start using Mobile 1 on my 1991 ES300 with 112k miles in it, what grade do you recommend ?
  19. on mobile 1 synthetic what is the grade for a 93 es300 with 112k on it ?
  20. Do a search.:chairshot: search for what ? what would be the most accurate term to run the search on ?
  21. While replacing the transmission engine mount I realized a boot that goes into the engine from the wheel is cracked, I believe it is from the left axle into the engine side cv joint boot. IS this something I can fix and replace myself ?
  22. no, is not the exhaust, thanks. the car was running fine, one day i went over a pothole covered by water, apparently something was inside that hit under the car somewhere... after that the noise started... it happens hen i accelerate about 3 to 4 k RPM is like a vibration of low frequency...
  23. Well, here I am... at first, I took my 93 es300 to the lexus dealer because a rumbling noise was coming from unerneath the car any time i pressed the gas pedal, in other words, if I let the car go without pressing the gas it is smooth an dnice, but when I press it and bting it up to around 3 to 4 rpm the rumbling noise starts... the dealer geve me a list of things wrong with the car among them the most obvious were the replacement of the engine mounts as a source of noise. after consulting here, i purchased the mounts and replaced them. was a hell of the job to replace all of them but I did it, very happy about saving all that money I to take it for a ride to enjoy a noiseless ride, to my dispair, the noise is still there as loud as it was before replacing the mounts !! any ideas waht could cause that noise ?
  24. Can you circle somehow where the actual mount is ? I don't understand this images. thanks never mind I just realized it Well, here I am... at first, I took my 93 es300 to the lexus dealer because a rumbling noise was coming from unerneath the car any time i pressed the gas pedal, in other words, if I let the car go without pressing the gas it is smooth an dnice, but when I press it and bting it up to around 3 to 4 rpm the rumbling noise starts... the dealer geve me a list of things wrong with the car among them the most obvious were the replacement of the engine mounts as a source of noise. after consulting here, i purchased the mounts and replaced them. was a hell of the job to replace all of them but I did it, very happy about saving all that money I to take it for a ride to enjoy a noiseless ride, to my dispair, the noise is still there as loud as it was before replacing the mounts !! any ideas waht could cause that noise ?
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