mtnduc

I had a 1983 XJ6 (toy show car 98.6 JCNA show winner) with bone interior which was even lighter than the Cashmere I ordered on my IS (I haven't received the car yet) and about every 3 months I cleaned and conditioned with Meguiars cleaner and conditioner. Lexol also makes a good product. If you want to use the best, Hide Food is the bomb as far as conditioners go.

I choose the Matador Red w/Cashmere, I like the contrast. I didn't like the alum trim so I went for the wood which looks great next to the tan. As for floormats, I'll wait and see when I get the car, I'll either get Black or Tan rubber from Weathertech. These held up great on my last 2 cars and don't look out of place. I'm also sure I'll be tinting the windows.

Phasing out a color in a geographic region. Sounds like a paint and sun issue. I'd like to know more.

I've used it in th epast on other cars. Sometimes on White & Sliver cars it can appear to yellow. I had it on a Dark Green A6 and it was almost invisible. I will be putting it on my Red IS whenver the car comes in. My dealer wants $695 to do the hood and mirrors. They claim they can't do the front bumper because of its curves. I'll be going to a local shop.

OK....if I recall, there are only 2 major oil filter manufacturers in the US. There is a difference in the price you pay and the quality you get. For example: a Purolator premium and a Purolater standard filter are not the same. I would use a quality filter and not cut corners here. Next, semi-synthetic oil....complete waste of your cash! Did you know the US govt only requires a semi-synthetic oil to be 25% synthetic to be semi. You could add 1 qt of pure synthetic to every 3 of base oil and save a few bones. This is what most quick lubes do. Semi-synthetic was only made to seperate a few extra $'s from your wallet for those hesitent to stepping up to full synthetic. If you decide to go the full synthetic route go for Mobil 1. Now you're probably thinking "this guy is an a**" and how does he know this stuff. I used to be the oil and supplies procurement mgr. for an international quick lube chain.

While I am not 100% positive, there is a very easy way to check. I'm assuming since you tried to take off the old rotor you already have a new one. Look at the center hole of the new rotor, if there is no lip for the nut to catch on, it can't be held on by the nut. I would be very surprized if the rotor was held on by a large single nut. Single nut wheel applications are generally reserved for quick change race situations. Also, don't forget to change pads if you're swapping out rotors. While I've never done pads on an IS the rear caliper plungers will compress one of 2 ways: 1) simple compression or 2) a turn and compress type used on many Audis, Nissans and Hondas. Sorry I couldn't be of more assistance. Brian

Hmmmm......generally your rotors are held on buy the wheel studs & lugs. Try spraying some WD40 or other penetrating oil around the studs and letting it sit a bit. Then using a rubber mallet or piece of wood and a steel hammer knock the rotor around the edges to pop it loose. If you are replacing the rotros don't worry about the block of wood just whack the rotor.

I ordered a Matador Red 350 with Cashmere and G Spyder rims Friday and my dealer tells me 2-3 weeks....we'll see.