AmFam

Well, with my Trac it was easy to provide the Dyno info. The man that runs the machine shop, (friend of mine that moved to Georgia) also owned a Trac. So I sent him one of the used T-boby's, he did the work and the dyno'ed his Trac pre and post. The only way to do it with my Lexus is to spend the additional money and find a local shop. Not to say it is something I wouldn't do, just had not thought about it at this point. I'll do some digging to see how much they will charge to do so.

Since I have not done this to my Lexus yet I can only go off of how it affected my Sport Trac. If you drive normally the modification is a nominal thing. It is all relative as to how you drive. You will allow more air into the intake if you desire to. By that I mean, if you are looking for some more lower end torque this is a good mod and did a good job for the money spent, compared to many of mods out there. With my Trac I did get an additional .10 increase in mileage when I drove consistent with no heavy accelerations to speak of. Where you physically felt it was if you pressed on the pedal and wanted some more umpf.. The Mass Air Flow Sensor was not affected as it did it's normal job. It communicated to the ECM/PCM and the fuel ratios were adjusted with no issues at all. I live in a county that does requires EPA/AIMS testing. I passed every time, no issues. Basically, it changes nothing until you want to have a bit more performance. It affects no sensors as they measure the flow and or volume just like they did before the modification. I still need to look at the Lexus and measure the inside of the intake vs the Throttle body to see if the intake is smaller, the same size or larger. If ti is larger then it should be worth while as you will in fact get more air into the intake. On the Trac, it was the same size and it was still worth doing. SO, I am going to see how it turns out and go from there. On several occasions I had a Snap-On scanner on my OBED II to read all the data. It was all within range and never tripped any engine lights.

OK, I use to own a Sport Trac and was able to modify the T-Body. It made a substantial difference for small money input. When I did the Sport Trac it was basically only $65.00 to modify the T-body. Once I ran it for a few months I was able to show the gains on paper. Increase of power as well as gas mileage as long as you kept your foot out of it..... LOL What I did was shave the inside of the body out to make the outside wall 1mm thick. Built a new plate to fit the new hole, installed new screws to hold the plate on as the shaft is thinner. We obtained a gain of 70cfm. I am looking to do the same thing on my RX300. Here is how I did it for the Sport Trac's. I bought 6 used units from a salvage yard, sent them out to the shop, had the work done, then offered them for sale. With the Sport Trac I was able to sell them for $135.00 I checked with the local yards and the shop. Due to the cost of the used Throttle body and the shop labor and supplies the Lexus unit will be somewhere around $170.00 ish. I am curious if others will have an interest in this. I just ordered one for myself to see if I can do the same as I did the Sport Tracs. I will keep you posted on the results. But I would like to know if others would be interested???? Thanks.

What is a Coach Grill???

The glass will affect the value of your car ZERO... They have to install glass that meets or exceeds certain safety standards set by the US Government. I am familiar with the company that did your work. You will have no issues with the glass they installed...

Not yet. I fly five days a week 2 to 4 flights a day and simply have not a moment to do it. I get home early tomorrow and will try to match it up then. I'll let you know what I come up with.

Not sure if you still need this or not, but if you do, I can help. They added "Body Module" to the look up list. I found 34 in stock. The low end with a warranty is $140 and they go all the way up to $240. Several listed at the $140 rate. If you want more info just let me know..

I know this is an old old post,,, I just did a search of inventory and show 14 of these available. $140 to $210. Some come with a 1 year warranty.

mehullica has nailed it. You need to remove the door panel. Once it is off you will see a single wire in most cases as the second wire is the body ground. But in some cases, there are two wires. In either case, you will see the wire(s) plug directly onto the latch assembly. Sometime you can get to it good enough to clean it up and lube it. Sometime you must remove the latch assembly to get it cleaned and lubed. Once you get it all cleaned up and lubed it will work again. Basically, that switch is stuck in the "Closed" position, it can not tell when the door is open...

I have access to over 1800 yards on-line inventory. I just did a search. However, Body ECU's are not in the "Look Up" list. So I did a wire harness search just to see who had what. Found 43 1999 RX300's that list the harness. If you tell me where it is located on your car I can call a few on Monday and get a price for you???? Let me know..

Just did a search of inventory. I have 4 right rear door glass's out of 2002 RX300's. Over the counter I have been selling them for $100.00. No idea what the cost of new replacement costs. If you still need one, I'd sell it to anyone at the site for $80.00. It is oem, that I can tell you for sure based on the lables on it compared to the rest of the glass. I don't know how to tell if it is the impregnated glass or not though???? (I suppose I could spray it with a hose and see)??

I have in my possession from a tinter all the levels with their corresponding numbers on them. He sent me a sheet of each. In the next few days I am going to go out and put a sheet against the window to find out which matches the best. Once I tell him the number, he will pre-cut a window for me. Both front windows, cut delivered and an install kit will be 50 dollars.

Check all the simple stuff first. Fuses, general connections and things like that. I own a salvage yard and did a search on the Heater/AC controls. I found 17 in stock at various yards. Price ranged $200 to $600. Some listed it with the radio and others did not. I think it is an integrated unit though. So you would get it all if you end up needing it. If I can help, let me know...

The code for my car is 01A which is a light gold If you can come up with a mirror in gold or one that I have to paint pleae let me know... Do you have a phone number where I can talk to you direct??? Thanks Mark I will private message you with my nunber. For sure I can get you a mirror. Since the details don't actually spell out "Gold" I will have to call them to see what they have for color. But it is not a problem, I can easily do that.

Sure,,, pick the hardest one to come by... LOL It is a matter of having some mechanical knowledge and basic tools. Due to the year and being foreign I am sure you will need Metric tools. Generally, mirrors are a pain to install only because of what you have to do to get to the mounting bolts. Not hard, just a pain in the butt kind of thing. Out of 1800 yard this is all there was listed in inventory... 2005 Mirror-Door Lexus RX330 OEM ASY NICE,11 WIRE NTO $289 2004 Mirror-Door Lexus RX330 LH Ele, L, w/memory-GRIS IM $275 2004 Mirror-Door Lexus RX330 LH Ele, L, w/memory-AZUL NOF $265 2004 Mirror-Door Lexus RX330 LH Ele, L, w/memory-GRIS NOF $265 2004 Mirror-Door Lexus RX330 LH Ele, L, w/memory-ORO NOF $265 I own a RX300 so I am not too familiar with the color codes of your 04 RX330. The four letter description after the word memory I assume is the color option. Hopefully one of them matches yours. If so, you will not need to paint it. If you buy a new one you will need to get it painted, keep that in mind. If any of these interest you just let me know. I'll call to confirm they still have it in stock and get a confirmed price and the shipping amount..

I own a salvage yard and can get parts easily. Need to know which of your two RX's as well as the following info to get the correct price for you.. For the 2001, Electric, w/o auto dimming; R. Electric, w/o auto dimming; L. Electric, w/auto dimming, R. Electric, w/auto dimming, L. For the 2004, Electric, R., w/memory Electric, R., w/o memory Electric, L., w/memory Electric, L., w/o memory For example, I looked up the 01 electric w/o auto dimming and can get used all day long for $125 to $150. Found new ones listed for $159.00 With auto dimming they are closer to $250.00 Let me know if I can help...

Just did a search of inventory. Not many out there in the event you need to purchase one (Used). Year Part Model Description Part Grade Stock# US Price Dealer Info 2004 Heater Motor Lexus RX330 HEATER ASSY W CORES AND BOXES 04543A $500 Diamond Auto Parts - QRP Partner USA-WI(Fond-duLac) E-mail 1-800-236-7731 2004 Heater Motor Lexus RX330 BLOWER_ASSM 04543A $200 Diamond Auto Parts - QRP Partner USA-WI(Fond-duLac) E-mail 1-800-236-7731 2005 Heater Motor Lexus RX330 ASSY,FAN LIFETIME WARRANTY A F390 $100 Pam's Auto USA-MN(St-Cloud) E-mail 1-800-560-7336 2004 Heater Motor Lexus RX330 -4wd 04UP 040122 $75 M and M Service and Salvage Yard Inc. USA-VA(Ruckersville) Request_Quote 1-800-533-4099 Request_Insurance_Quote 2004 Heater Motor Lexus RX330 -MotorResister,#4993 00-2121(AlmHeatSink 040122 $50 M and M Service and Salvage Yard Inc. USA-VA(Ruckersville) Request_Quote 1-800-533-4099 Request_Insurance_Quote

172 is a rich condition. If you had a vacuum leak it would be too lean so you can eliminate that as an issue. Too rich can be caused by a leaking injector, defective fuel pressure regulator or as simple as a CTS (Coolant Temp Sensor) being defecting. If it is a defective CTS what happens is, it tells the ECM that it is cold even when it is not. As a result, it allows much more fuel to pass thru the injectors. As noted a MAF can cause it but normally if the MAS is bad it creates a poor running condition as well

Although I can not pin point your problem with out codes from you, I can steer you in the correct direction. The two systems work in conjunction with the ABS Sensors. It is how it determines if it is sliding, and or skidding. So take a look around your wheel sensors to see if there is some debris (rust, scale, mud). If so, clean it out and see what happens...

Either CV's or the axle bearings themselves. Normally, one will fail before the other referring to left and right sides.. As a general rule, CV's fail on one side and make noise ONLY on that side. Bearing fail on one side and the noise is normally on the opposite of the turn you are making. Reason... there is more lateral force on the outside tire (bearing). So when you turn left there is more pressure and force on the right bearing and that is why you hear the noise on the other side of the direction your turning. Axle Shaft CV's don't carry lateral force. So they make noise on tight turns on the side they are bad on no matter which direction you turn. Based on that, it sounds like your bearing are failing to me...

I have a 2002. It stays right where I set it from the night before.......

OK, one of three things probably. If you push down slightly on the fuel pedal, (Don't pump it), crank it and it starts and stays running while you leave you foot slightly down on the pedal it is probably your IAC, (Idle air control solenoid). If that does not do it then it may be your CTS, (Coolant Temp Sensor). It acts like what use to be a choke on older engines. It tells the ECM that it is cold and the ECM allows the injectors to stay open longer until the engine gets up to temp. Then the IAC takes over at idle. Or, check valve in the fuel pump. If it is bad it allows the fuel to return to the tank and it takes longer crank times to get the engine started. Easiest way to check this is to turn the key on and off like 8 or so times before you actually crank the engine. If it starts and idles OK after doing this, it probably is the check valve.... Good luck...

The 170 code also comes up when you have a lean bank issue. Like a vacuum leak for example. What happens is the O2 says it is lean as there is much more air than the normal air to fuel ratio. Since the O2 can not determine anything other than a good or bad mix it trips the code saying it is defective or you have a rich or lean bank. 90 percent of the time there is nothing wrong with the O2. It trips due to the reading it is sending to the ECM/PCM. So do a good look around for a vacuum leak as well..

Just did a quick search at Autozone just to see the cost and what is available. Here is what I found; KNOCK SENSOR for a 2001 LEXUS TRUCK RX300 2WD WELLS 2 REQUIRED SU5377 3 MO $142.99

You are correct. I did a quick search and did not read it clear enough. I have seen them for the 300 as well. I have a 300 so I look every now and then just because....