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erubin

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Everything posted by erubin

  1. Hi, My neighbor's 1990 LS400 had the alternator replaced 1 month ago. After about 1000 miles the new serpentine belt started coming apart. the outer two cords (toward the front of the car) have seperated. i will put a new belt on tomorrow. I checked that the alt was not loose, that all the pulleys line up (they appear to) and that the pulleys are not damaged. Any suggestions based on experience why a new belt breaks up after an alternator replacement? i dont think the alternator has any spacers so i douby it could be mounted wrong. I will check the tensioner tomorrow as well well as the damaged belt's length.
  2. Just did a quick search but couldn't find the Best Buy receipt. I seem to always loose/misplace those little crappy thermal paper receipts. Furtheremore they tend to fade out with time. In any case the speakers cost around $58.99 a pair (or was it $52.99?). They are the only 4" Pioneers carried by my local Best B here on west side LA, Pico Bd. I recall leaving out a mounting screw because i couldn't get all 4 to line up enough. The phase (pos/neg) should be respected otherwise you will create some strange noise cancelling effects. Just make sure you look at the hook up before pulling out the old speakers as it is not clearly labeled +/-. well a little more digging and voila here it is: Pioneer 4" 100W max. TS-G1041R. $51.99/pair.
  3. I used Pioner speakers purchased at Best Buy. The screw holes didn't line up perfectly but i made it fit.
  4. Thanks for that response and indeed you are right. the front two speakers were no good. Replacing them with new 4" pioneers fixed it. as for the rear the fault is not the speaker. their is no signal coming to the speaker. It's good enough now even though one rear speaker is not functioning. I bought speakers at Best Buy before reading your response so sorry i can't take you up on your offer.
  5. It's only fair to give a finalee to the story. Although my friend said the spark plugs were recently changed it turns out that they were in terrible shape so in fact he paid a mechanic for this work and it wasn't done. the number 6 spark plug was particularly bad and was cuasing lots of poor firing. Didn't show up as a check engine light, I guess they weren't as sufisticated pre OBDII regarding misfire detection. Replaced all the plugs and problem fixed.
  6. I have a Nakamichi factory system in a 1990 Ls400. Suddenly I lost all sound from 3 out of 4 doors. Only the front right and woofer still work. I searched all over for the amp and could not find it (the sub amp was easy to find). now i read on this site that the amp is under the CD changer. First of all would you guess that the problem is with the headunit or the amp (or could so many speakers all fail at the same time)? As mentioned above the system works fine on just one door and the sub woofer. I already pulled the head unit out so i could test from there if you suggest a test from there. Finally, i pulled out the cell phone apparatus out of the trunk. It appears to have leaked badily. I don't need the cell phone set up but thought that may be a factorin the system going down? Thanks
  7. Replaced the two shift solenoids. problem solved.
  8. Update: I erased the codes and drove the car until the OD light began to blink. Immediately checked codes and only code 63 (shift solenoid #2) was triggered. Does anyone on this forum have experiemnce with these shift solenoids and would try to answer my question. The aftermarket shift solenoids (by Rostra) come as a pair (#1 & #2 shift solenoids) and cost about $125. Thanks.
  9. Hi, My 1990 LS400 has 120,000 miles. Transmission shifts fine until I've gotten the trans really hot (over 15 miles). The OD light then starts blinking intermittantly and the car shifts badly (feels like it goes from first to OD directly). I pulled the following codes: Code 63 shift solenoid #2 Code 67 OD direct clutch speed sensor After erasing the errors i get both codes back after driving enough. I've already drained and filled with T-IV fluid even though the existing fluid looked/smelled fine. What do you suggest: 1. drop the pan, replace solenoid #2 and the OD speed sensor or 2. clean the solenoid rather than replacing ot Dropping the pan is a drag not to mention loss of fluid so i'd like to only do it once. on the other hand the shift solenoid is not cheap so don't want to replace it if it just needs cleaning. The fact that the error only occurs when the fluid gets real hot should be a hint i believe.
  10. The car is a '93 GS300 (inline 6cyl) with 140K miles. The car has been well maintained. The spark plugs (Denso Iridium), wires and cap/rotor were replaced a few months ago. The car runs rough as though the EGR was always open or that a few cylinders were not running. This problem is with the car hot or cold, at idle or under load. No check engine light even though this has been going on for a week. I even put the diagnostic into blink mode but nothing stored. I put my timing gun on each wire one by one. They all fire regularly. I put a NOID light on 4 out of 6 injectors (couldnt get to two injectors under the throttle body) and the light flashes regularly. I put vacuum on the EGR valve and it opened and the engine runs just a bit more rough. i took off the EGR (not too dirty with carbon) and bench tested it, it opens and closes with my hand held pump. I did a block leak test (sniffs for exhaust in the coolant and changes color if positive) but came up negative I disconnected and reconnected the MAF sensor several times and the engine does not change a bit (I would expect a change in regime but maybe the fundamental problem is masking it). But if the MAF was bad I would expect a check engine light I would think. Furthermore I'm not sure if the MAF is used in open loop and I have the problem even with a cold engine. I checked the engine timing. It is at 20 BTDC with and without the diagnostic jumper installed. It should be 10BTDC with connector and 7-19BTDC (varying) without it connected. I rotated the distributor as far as possible and brought the timing to 16BTDC, still way over spec. I removed the upper timing belt cover, rotated the engine to TDC and the cams line up perfect (so belt did not skip). What should I test. Help!
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