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artbuc

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Everything posted by artbuc

  1. Just be aware that Lexus cost minus Lexus goodwill equals the cost at a reputable transmission shop. And Lexus rebuilds do not have that good of a track record. After going through all this with both Lexus and Toyota I ended up using a local shop. My experiences with both Toyota and Lexus dealerships have been consistently terrible. I have only used them for warranty work but they screwed up everything they did. Some things I fixed myself, some things I took back and they fixed, some things I had to take back two times and one thing I had to take back three times (leaking rear CV boot covers on the RX). I've posted a couple examples over the years and have several more. Hopefully my experiences have been atypical but they do cover two separate Lexus dealerships and one Toyota dealership, so draw your own conclusions.
  2. So, will frequent ATF changes do anything to prevent planetary gear failures? Also, did your resource say that there were other types of failure? This is the closest thing to a "smoking gun" I have seen.
  3. Ditto on the Sil-Glyde! RX, I assume you have to remove the door panel to lude the window tracks?
  4. smooth 1 wrote: "I've actually run into this before with some customers that came in who had done some header and exhaust work and went to an 02 sim. Later they went back to stock and just spliced in the 02 sensors and kept throwing cels afterwards. I just replaced the 02's and the wire harnesses and everything was roses. So I'm sure there may be a window of acceptability for the 02, and there is even a good chance that the splice may fall right back into that, but that would just be a guessing game there." Gotcha...thanks for the info.
  5. Mike, that is always a possibility. There is a way to test the A/F ratio sensors. Unfortunately the rear sensor plug is difficult to get released because of where it is. I actually think it's worse to disconnect it than it is to remove it. It's up behind the engine and you pretty much have to do it from underneath. The problem is it takes 2 hands to hold the plug and release it and it's virtually impossible to get 2 hands up there. Now if you had the intake manifold off, that would definitely be the time to change the plugs, A/F sensor and a few other things that are BURIED back there. If/when my O2 sensor fails, I plan on cutting/splicing the wires instead of removing the seat to get to the connector. I would really advise against doing it this way. The wires and the sensor are matched to carry the correct ohms and impedence. Cutting and splicing can change the impedence of the wire. You may start throwing cels later just because of the splice. Good point. Does make me wonder about the two A/F sensors. Bank 1 and Bank 2 originally had different wiring harness lengths and, up until the last 6 months or so, there were two different replacement A/F sensors to match factory installed. Now, there is only one replacement A/F sensor with a common wiring harness length. Sort of suggests resistance of the wire itself is not important.
  6. Mike, that is always a possibility. There is a way to test the A/F ratio sensors. Unfortunately the rear sensor plug is difficult to get released because of where it is. I actually think it's worse to disconnect it than it is to remove it. It's up behind the engine and you pretty much have to do it from underneath. The problem is it takes 2 hands to hold the plug and release it and it's virtually impossible to get 2 hands up there. Now if you had the intake manifold off, that would definitely be the time to change the plugs, A/F sensor and a few other things that are BURIED back there. If/when my O2 sensor fails, I plan on cutting/splicing the wires instead of removing the seat to get to the connector.
  7. Basically, the real difference is that synthetic is a more durable and slippery lubricant. Dino oil is not=to synthetic at any mileage interval, they are different products that are used to perform the same function. Your question should be, Will Dino be as effective in lubricating your engine and if so, when do you need to change it? Yes it will be effective, and any SAE oil changed at 3000 miles (or even 6,000 miles) will be effective. Consumer reports did a study on motor oil and they found that any SAE oil will not break down before 3,000 miles. Consumer Reports ran oil in similar cars and changed the oil in one group at 3k and 6k in the other group. Both sets of engines were torn down and no appreciable difference in wear was noted at all! Actually you are probably even safe at 7,500 mile intervals. The oil companies are the ones that pushed 3,000 miles to the point that everyone seems to be snowballed into believing the propaganda. If you look at old automobile manuals, you will find that almost all manufacturers used to recommend 7,500 miles as the change interval. Link to the report http://www.moneybluebook.com/articles/cons...s.oilchange.php And as all research, there are those that say the testing was invalid / flawed etc, etc. The bottom line, change your oil regularly and consistently, and your engine will die from something else. Great link. I do have a couple comments. First, I have read (somewhere way back) that mostly all engine wear occurs during the first few seconds after an engine is started so I wonder how valid the NYC taxi test is. Also, my brother-in-law is a master mechanic who owns his own shop. He has been tearing down and rebuilding engines for over 40 years. He says you don't start seeing the benefits of good oil change maintenance for at least 150k miles. IOW, engines with 60k miles will look pretty much the same whether they have had 3k changes with deluxe oil or 6k changes with cheap oil. So, he isn't surprised by the NYC taxi results and doesn't think they necessarily mean anything.
  8. My wife's RX now has 92k miles and has had oil/oil filter change every 3k (or 3 months) with Castrol dino 5-30W oil. Removed valve cover and engine is clean as a whistle. Why should I change to synthetic at this point? I'm not arguing against synthethic, just don't see any reason to make the change.
  9. Pretty common to get 0125 along with the A/F codes. I know it happened to me.
  10. This is mostly routine maintenance. Doesn't say anything (at least not to me) about the longevity of the car.
  11. Actually, my Alenza's were much cheaper at the Firestone dealer. Call around. Bridgestone dictates what the tires will cost, but individual dealers can offer free mounting, balancing, stems and disposal. I called 4 Firestone dealers and found one who had the free installation package. Then I got a Firestone credit card which gave me another 10% off plus interest free for 90 days. Getting the card dings your credit score a little but not enought to worry about. Usually I buy from Tirerack and have a local garage install. Buying from the Firestone store saved me around $100.
  12. Just put on Alenza's a few weeks ago. Like them very much. Before I had the Dueler H/L's which I believe were pretty close to the Alenza'a. Actually, I think the Alenza's replaced the H/L's. Got 50k on the H/L's...very nice tires.
  13. Mine takes 5 1/2 quarts to bring level to the top line on the dipstick. 5 quarts brings it to mid-range between the two marks. This with a new filter, of course.
  14. PK 3 wrote: "BTW: Tire shops and oil change outfits are notorious for selling a bill of goods. Out here a couple of big chains are practically in receivership do to class action." Excellent point PK. I just went to a Firestone dealer to get my new Bridgestone H/L Alenza's (much better deal than Tirerack). First they tried to sell me a wheel alignment. Later they came out and said my car needed a "fuel sysytem" service because it had more than 90k miles. Finally, without my knowledge, they inspected the air filter and came out and told me I had a dirty air filter which should be changed because it was hurting my mileage. I stayed polite on this one, but I told them I did not appreciate them doing anything to my car without my permission and I asked them what else they had "inspected". They assured me they had not done anything other then inspect the fluid levels. I won't go back there again. PS They told me they used a torgue wrench on the lug nuts. Actually I think they used 3 torque wrenches - one set at 65 lbs, one set at 90 lbs and one set at 120 lbs.
  15. Yep, I have the same problem, I was able to remove three torx screws and one screw inside, still doesn't have enough slack to take a good look and connect the rod, now I must warn everyone, after messing with all this (without any luck) I guess I messed up the setup now sometime my door doesn't close right and inside manual lock is little hard to lock/unlock. Still looking forward to do it, If I get clear instruction.. Please look at post #7 on the thread I started on 8/21/08 entitled Drivers Door Actuator Replacement. I had the same problem you are having and that post describes in detail what has to be removed in order to manipulate the existing actuator. Well unless I am not looking at the right thread, post #7 , doesn't have the information you mention, can you be kind and post it again, so we can see. PS. I love the global nature of the Lexus forums. Isn't it amazing that 3 people (doc2b07, abo and saikaiting) located in Houston, IL and Germany are posting the exact same questions using the exact same pics? Hopefully this post will help all 3 of you at the exact same time. Thanks 58. Yes, you have to remove 3 torx screws holding the latch in the jamb, another torx screw on the inside panel, a bolt holding the actuator, a bolt holding the window track and a plastic barb. I also removed the exterior door handle so I could disconnect the two connecting rods (one for door key cylinder and the other for the door). Also I removed the bolt holding the inside door latch to create slack on the two wire cables. Finally I disconnected the two wiring harness connectors. This was the only way I could move the actuator around enough to see what I was doing.
  16. The RX is known for this lag and most say it is due to the transmission which may be true. However, I eliminated the problem on my car by removing the slack in the throttle cable which connects the gas pedal to the throttle body. It is a very simple thing to do. I was concerned about taking out the slack because I assumed Toyota put it there for a reason. However, I did the adjustment a couple years ago and haven't had any problems. It made a huge difference! Did you do that by yourself or a repair shop? I am still not very clear for the "slack" you are talking about. If you could up some pics that would be awesome. If you look at the throttle body you will see where the steel throttle cable is connected to the throttle. You can put your hand on it and manually open/close the throttle. On my car, you could open the throttle a little before it started pulling the cable. There are adjusting nuts on the cable which allow you to remove this slack. When you do that, the throttle cable begins to move as soon as you start to open the throttle. That translates to the throttle starting to open as soon as you push down on the gas pedal. Anyone can do this if they have just a little auto DIY experience.
  17. The RX is known for this lag and most say it is due to the transmission which may be true. However, I eliminated the problem on my car by removing the slack in the throttle cable which connects the gas pedal to the throttle body. It is a very simple thing to do. I was concerned about taking out the slack because I assumed Toyota put it there for a reason. However, I did the adjustment a couple years ago and haven't had any problems. It made a huge difference!
  18. The plastic cover does not come off. It is part of the actuator. You have to remove everything I mentioned in my #7 post (referenced above). Then you can pull the actuator out enough to see and work on it. Now, it you are going to replace the motor instead of connecting a new actuator, then you will have to split the plastic casing apart. Code 58 has already covered this here and on the ClubLexus forum. I was just as perplexed as you when I did this job until I realized you must remove everything which holds the actuator in postion so you can manipulate it.
  19. Yep, I have the same problem, I was able to remove three torx screws and one screw inside, still doesn't have enough slack to take a good look and connect the rod, now I must warn everyone, after messing with all this (without any luck) I guess I messed up the setup now sometime my door doesn't close right and inside manual lock is little hard to lock/unlock. Still looking forward to do it, If I get clear instruction.. Please look at post #7 on the thread I started on 8/21/08 entitled Drivers Door Actuator Replacement. I had the same problem you are having and that post describes in detail what has to be removed in order to manipulate the existing actuator. PS. I love the global nature of the Lexus forums. Isn't it amazing that 3 people (doc2b07, abo and saikaiting) located in Houston, IL and Germany are posting the exact same questions using the exact same pics? Hopefully this post will help all 3 of you at the exact same time.
  20. Disconnect the battery for 15 minutes to reset your computer. Drive until your CEL comes on. Go to Autozone and have them read the code(s) but make sure you get the actual numerical code(s). Come back and tell us what they are and we will tell you what they mean. Don't let people start guessing and replacing parts...it will cost you a fortune and likely not solve your problem.
  21. Linkage is the "silver rod" which came with the new actuator. It will link the new actuator to the old actuator. I assume it is about 300 mm long with a right angle (90 degree) bend. After the bend it is about 25mm long. At the end of the 25mm length it terminates with an enlarged head. This head is too big to push through the hole in the old actuator lever hole so it must be ground or filed down. You could enlarge the hole in the old actuator lever but it is plastic and enlarging the hole would make it too weak. This is the explantion of linkage I sent you on Nov 6th. I don't know how to explain it more than this. Ok, I tried this weekend with the help of my neighbour (he is pretty goo din mechnical work) but no luck, first of all we didn't find any existing hole in the manual lever where I can fit the new linkage, secondly the existing rod is thin and round, there is no way one can drill a whole in it, at least the size we need to pass through the new actuator rod, I guess my setup is different, so I end up putting the door panel back, any ideas.... Are you working on the front door of a 99 RX300? If yes, look at the pics in the 4th post of this thread. One of the 3 pics shows where the rod (or linkage) goes thru the hole in the manual lever. You can enlarge the pic and see it quite well. The 1st post of this thread talks about the rear door which doesn't have the hole. In this case you have to do something different which Indiana describes. I have not done a rear door so I can't help you.
  22. please re read this artbuc u douchebag i am not asking for linkage explanation u *BLEEP*tard You are welcome. I also appreciate the vulgar PM you sent me. If you read my posts you will see I have made a fairly significant effort to help you. You say you are a 24 yr old law student with an above average IQ. Maybe someday you will have above average manners and maturity.
  23. Linkage is the "silver rod" which came with the new actuator. It will link the new actuator to the old actuator. I assume it is about 300 mm long with a right angle (90 degree) bend. After the bend it is about 25mm long. At the end of the 25mm length it terminates with an enlarged head. This head is too big to push through the hole in the old actuator lever hole so it must be ground or filed down. You could enlarge the hole in the old actuator lever but it is plastic and enlarging the hole would make it too weak. This is the explantion of linkage I sent you on Nov 6th. I don't know how to explain it more than this.
  24. Please don't take this the wrong way because I am only wishing you the best. If you need more help than has already been given I think you should take your car to a Lexus dealer or recommended indie shop and pay someone to fix your actuator.
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