artbuc
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Posts posted by artbuc
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Hope I don't jinx myself either but I just turned 125,000 on my 2000. So far, other than scheduled maintenance, I've replaced all the coils, front O2 sensor and the antenna/mast/motor. I've also done the IACV cleaning twice. Oil every 4k with Mobil 1 5W-30 (now 0W-30). I have a very short commute each day (5-6mi) but I do regular 400 and 600 mi trips several times a year. Hope to keep this rig for at least another year or two. Mine was bought originally in May of 2000.
Tmastres, excuse me if I asked you this question already, but did you replace all coils as prevention or did you have coil failures? Thanks.
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I'm looking at replacing struts all the way around my RX300. Most online retailers are carrying KYB or Monroe Struts. Does anyone have an opinion for their quality and durability?
I'm a Realtor so I live in my car. 225,000 and still going, no major problems.
Thanks in Advance!
I really like my KYB struts but I would not use KYB strut mounts. I returned mine and bought factory mounts. I've read good things about Moog mounts but they cost about the same as factory.
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Easiest pads ive ever changed. Before removing inside pad , just use C-clamp against old pad to push piston in, it really helps. I purchased the $55 pads from NAPA and did not turn the rotors, they looked very smooth and just didnt need it.
Good job, Kimo.
I too replaced the pads on my wife's '04 RX330 (fronts only)
At 85K miles, her right side had just worn through the outside pad. The rotor needed turned so both sides done, new pads from Lexus of Austin $69. I opened the bleed valve on the calipers when I squeezed the pistons back into the calipers. This forced the old, nasty fluid out of the calipers. I used the mityvac to remove all the fluid in the master res, filled with new fluid and bled a couple times. All new fluid, new pads, like new rotors. Car stops like the day it was made.
Chris
Did you clean and lube the slide pins? I have found that slide pins on my Toyota Avalon and RX300 need to be serviced more often than at pad replacement time. I change brake fluid and lube slide pins every 2 years. There is little clearance between the pin OD and caliper ID for grease. Do an Internet search and you will see that sticking/frozen slide pins are a common Toyota problem.
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I'm also trying to choose between the same two tires for my 2006 Rx 400h. Would love to hear feedback from Lexus drivers...
Don't think you can find anything better than the Alenza's!
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I switched to Mobil 1 full synthetic trans fluid almost 2 years and 30,000 miles ago when it first became T-IV compatible. No problems.
No problems is a good thing! On the flip side, what are the benefits?
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Hello to all. I am the proud owner of a '99 RX300 and I live and work in the Northeast. Since the belated oncoming cold weather I have a problem with a cold start in the morning only. The car does not turn over, that is the starter does not engage but I hear a grinding or electrical discharge like noise. Then when I turn off the ignition and try again, it turns over. I have tried turning the ignition to on, then off, then start, but the same problem arises. I have a fairly new starter installed by my brother in-law one year ago. Any thoughts? Thanks.
Many of the remanufactured starters are junk and you are lucky if they last a year. Do you know what starter your BIL installed?
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I recently had to remove all four locking lug nuts from my RX300. The key for the lug nuts had become unusable. My question is this...I want to replace all four with a standard lug nut, but Lexus wants almost 20 dollars a lug nut, but I was told that due to the nature of the lug nuts on this vehicle having a washer attached to the nut, I would be unable to use a standard lug nut set for 15 bucks for four? Does any one have any suggestions? Could I use a standard lug and put a washer on it? I know that the standard lugs are tappered on the end that fits into the hole. Any help would be appreciated...thanks...
The Autozone lug nuts will work fine but they may have a different finish. I know the AdvanceAuto ones have a slightly different finish - less shiny and more gray vs chrome. I got mine from a local Toyota dealer who gave me the wholesale price (which he almost always does). They were $7.20 per. You can also get factory nuts on-line delivered for about the same.
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By the way, your caps lock is stuck on.
HUH? WHAT DID YOU SAY?? CAN'T HEAR YA'!! Sorry, the devil made me do that
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i am inheriting a 1999, rx300 with 125,000 in great shape but the ride has deteriorated. the tires are new, transmission serviced but never broken down, go figure, and wondering what shocks did anyone use for replacement. thanks
Most, including me, have used KYB GR2 aka Excel. They are made in Japan and are very high quality with EXACT fit and finish. Pretty sure KYB was the OEM supplier for our RX's. RockAuto has the best price I could find. Look for a 5% off coupon - they are readily available. Do a search here and you will find some great installation tips, especially by LexMex. Many may not agree with me but I say spring the extra bucks and buy Toyota factory mounts. Your front bearings are probably fine - just clean them well with mineral spirits and repack them. The bearing easily pulls apart for servicing. Make sure you don't have ball bearings all over your garage floor. How would I know that could happen?
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When you get a definitive answer as to what was wrong, please post it. I replaced my strut mounts and nothing changed. Same noises, in the same area, etc. I am at a loss!
Did you replace them personally or just pay to have them replaced? I can't imagine it making any noise if it actually had new strut mounts installed. If you payed to have them replaced I would check to make sure they were actually replaced or that they replaced the right thing. wouldn't be the first time someone payed for something that they didn't actually get. If you replaced them yourself then something is wrong somewhere. I removed them on my daughter-in-laws 99RX and actually repaired them and got rid of the noise. And it sounded nasty before I repaired them. Won't go into the reasons for repair vs replace but it had to do with critical time constraints. The noise is nasty because it is metal against metal! Y/t- Roger
Roger, I just discovered this thread! How the heck did you repair the rubber bushing in the strut mounts????? Is there anything you can't fix?? :D
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Hello,
I have a question to ask. I pull out the front oxygen sensor and it has Denso part # 480467-48010, than I pull out the next one and it has Denso Part # 89467-48011, Are these two different Parts I thought the two manifold oxygen sensors were the same part. Lexus # 234-9009. By the way 1999 RX300. Thanks for your help on this.
Thanks
Jeff :D
Jeff- the 10 was the original A/F ratio sensor the cars were built with and the 11 is the replacement. Don't know that there's any difference between 'em, they just changed the # 1 digit. The 234-9009 is the same sensor with the Denso # because the other #'s belong to Toyota. Even the OX sensor (the 1 back by the Cat. Conv.) has the same threads, it just screws into the plate that bolts onto the pipe. What Blueridge meant is the downstream one is different in that it is an Oxygen sensor and the front ones are A/F ratio sensors.
Originally, the wiring harness length was different.
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Hello all,
Does anyone have instructions on how to change the Inner tie rod ends, and lower ball joints on a 1999 Lexus RX 300? Is this something i can safely carry out myself?
How did they determine the INNER tie rods were bad? That is an easy one for you to check, though I must say, inner tie rods don't go bad very often, most of the time the outer (tie rod ends). Do you have really bad roads in the Bahamas? It requires some special tools to do the INNERS. You have to take the outer ends off and then it takes a long tube type socket (at least 12-15 in. long) that is made to take crow-foot wrenches of different sizes. I don't think you'd want to buy one, they're not cheap so if you do it, I'd see if I could rent one from a parts store. To check them, jack the car up and lock the steering wheel and preferably have someone hold the steering wheel to one side to eliminate play in the steering wheel lock. Then take ahold of the wheel and try to move back and forth like you are weaving R&L. That will pick up any play in the whole steering system (rack & pinion, inner tie rods, & outer tie rod ends) if you have play, you need to determine which of those things is the problem or if more than one is.
Thanks Roger. My eyes read "inner" but my brain heard "outer". Yes, replacing inner tre's is a different animal all together.
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Hello all,
Does anyone have instructions on how to change the Inner tie rod ends, and lower ball joints on a 1999 Lexus RX 300? Is this something i can safely carry out myself?
I don't know your mechanical skill level and/or what tools you have so I can't say if you can do this safely. I can say it is a very simple job for almost any mechanically oriented DIY'er because the lower ball joint is bolted (vs pressed) in which makes removal and installation easy. You should have a nice flat concrete surface, good floor jack & jack stands, impact wrench and a special tool (real cheap to buy) which will pop-out the tie-rod end and ball joint. You should also have a torque wrench for reassembly.
PS How do you know you need these parts?
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Dear All,
My A/C is not working properly all of a sudden. It worked fine yesterday. But I heard continuous ticking sound like a relay on & off for few days under the dashboard. Now the AC light is on. I can hear the compressor cluch engaged. But only slight cooling effect. Can anybody help me find the problem? Thanks.
Do you know where your sight glass is? I believe it's right down in front. Do you know how a sight glass works? Have someone turn the A/C on and turn it down, maybe 60 degrees so that it should be on at all times and run it up to about 1500 RPM on the tach and you watch the sight glass and see if it has bubbles in it. If it does, how many, just a few or is it solid foam? I'm personally betting it is the blend door actuators on the R side behind the glove box. Report back.
Thanks a lot. Looks like there is no gas now. Clutch does not engage, when the AC is on. No cooling at all. But AC indicater lite is on. It does not blink.
If it is properly charged, you won't see bubbles (unless it is an extremely hot day) while it is running. Make sure you are looking at the sight glass while someone else turns off the car. You should then see bubbles/foam form right after it is turned off and then the bubbles/foam will immediately disperse. You will also see this effect while the car is running and the A/C compressor turns off. The compressor will cycle on/off depending on the cooling load. But, if you aren't sure what you are looking for, it is easier to have someone turn off the car while you are looking at the sight glass.
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There is a thread I think by mandyfig with detailed instructions and pictures on how to put a screen on.
http://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-second-...on-air-dam.html
I'll be doing this real soon!!!
Just checked out my new condenser today during an oil change. It is already beat up. It has one impact crater with ground zero exactly mid-way between two channels. How this condenser isn't leaking is beyond me. I mean, it looks like someone did this on purpose with the objective of doing as much damage as possible without actually causing a refrigerant leak. You gotta be kiddin' me
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so the accumulator bag goes inside the condensor?
Denso 478-1500. Go to their website and you will see an image of the components in the kit. Easy and self-explanatory on the install. Make sure you have the right oil to lube the o-rings - Pag 40 DEC or, if you want to burn a whole bunch of unneeded $$, buy some Denso 8 from Lexus or Toyota :).
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God,
Look, I belong to 10 or more forums. Most relating to vehicles but not necessarily in direct ways. I get subscription and synopsis of most every morning.. I try to whip through them, pipe in where I think I can contribute or give a laugh. I try to pick my syntax with care. Some times I don’t. I get numb with the volume.
LOL! Ask a dyslexic if he has “read between the lines”?. Got any other handicap gags?
But actually I did. A slightly effusive pat on the back for the previous posters partial recompense for my rudeness.; I agree, with you, it was very well written and researched. Between the lines? what I read was sort of“this is how Johnny ties his shoes, why can’t you. I’m O.K with that..
Never got a chance to respond,. D.B pops in right away and isn’t quite so polite spewing his bilious, vulgarities and insulting my skills and capabilities, calling me a poser etc. I try to explain my skills and experience in contrast to DB’s blind assessment…and you call me an “arrogant” egomaniac. What does that have to do with your brief post?
The I say it may have of that way, in fact I suck at this that and the other thing (and that was the short list..
So back to my question, did I have no right and reason to rebut DB’s statements? (Cause there obviously not true)
For trying to set thing straight, do I really have to be called and arrogant egotistical?
When I make amends for any arrogance do I not deserve a reply?
Since you asking for advice on what to do, I'll offer some. Stop digging and let this thing go. Please.
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knowledge of repair/maintenance comes on the forums and runs his mouth. e The Emperor's New Clothes thing. If they can't see it now, there is nothing that you can say to change them.
Settle, settle…Now, you really know me eh? (hey see pics below!!)
A few facts might be in order. I am not coming off half cocked with "limited knowledge”. I rebuilt my first engines at 14 (''60s Corvairs, flat 6's) and maintained those heaps and 5 others for another 3 years. I financed my education at SDSU &CSULB in part at by buying distressed cars, dialed them in and sold them. By the time I was 25 I had had about 25 cars. About half of those had catastrophic engine & trans. failures.
All off the engine failures were in the more exotic cars, (Only way I could afford them and I sure wanted to drive them then make a buck. My rebuilts & build ups incluse 4 or 5 Porsche motors, and about 5 BMW's. I'm probably most proud of the rebuild I did (complete engine build and trans repair) of Porsche's then flagship, the 4.5L V8 powered. 928-S. Quite exotic for the time. Supposedly gave Ferraris and the like a run for there money
CURRENT: SEE PICs BELOW
Pretty much gave up fiddling with cars unless something really interesting comes along.. I did supercharge my current Porsche last year ( what a pain but worth every busted knuckle). Now I’m currently hot-rodding my ‘35 Chrysler flathead. that belongs to my 1935 Chris Craft ‘35
BTW. I am not a professional gear head (no offense to any). I'm actually a designer. Ironically my first gig while still in school was designing for Toyota the "cookie cutter" for showrooms for a secret new car coming out called a... Lexus. We built scores of full size mockups in a huge building next Toyota USA up in Torrance. Oddly my dealer dosn't really look like that cookie cutter.
You are quite accomplished! I always enjoy it when someone justifies their ego and arrogance.
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My mechanic couldn't find the accumulator dryer. I see it is on the side of the condensor. Do you have to remove the condensor to replace it? My ac with a new compressor is not running cold enough (50 degrees). Any advice?
You can't replace it because it is an integral part of the condenser. You can replace dessicant bag but you shouldn't have to unless your system was open for an extended period. Did your mechanic quickly and carefully plug the refrigerant lines while he was installing the new compressor?
I got the dryer as part of the kit, that is the dessicant bag. Do you know how to replace it? The compressor warranty says it is covered if you replace the dryer.
You have to discharge the system. I assume you can do it without removing the condenser but you have to work from the bottom. I did mine with a new condenser off the vehicle. After installing the new bag you will have to evac and re-charge your system.
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My mechanic couldn't find the accumulator dryer. I see it is on the side of the condensor. Do you have to remove the condensor to replace it? My ac with a new compressor is not running cold enough (50 degrees). Any advice?
You can't replace it because it is an integral part of the condenser. You can replace dessicant bag but you shouldn't have to unless your system was open for an extended period. Did your mechanic quickly and carefully plug the refrigerant lines while he was installing the new compressor?
I got the dryer as part of the kit, that is the dessicant bag. Do you know how to replace it? The compressor warranty says it is covered if you replace the dryer.
You have to discharge the system. Iassume you can do it without removing the condenser but you have to work from the bottom. I did mine with a new condenser off the vehicle. After installing the new bag you will have to evap and re-charge your system.
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My mechanic couldn't find the accumulator dryer. I see it is on the side of the condensor. Do you have to remove the condensor to replace it? My ac with a new compressor is not running cold enough (50 degrees). Any advice?
You can't replace it because it is an integral part of the condenser. You can replace dessicant bag but you shouldn't have to unless your system was open for an extended period. Did your mechanic quickly and carefully plug the refrigerant lines while he was installing the new compressor?
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Here's the good news. The guy at autozone was right, and you probably didn't hurt anything at all. This car is nowhere near semi exotic (think Camry) you likely can handle this. What else? Lets see, you did not muck up your MAP sensor because this car does not have one. It does have MAF sensor that is upstream from the throttle body. You don't have plug wires either, whew safe there too. Your throttle body can be filthy and not have bigger problems like an air filter, say what? or blow by.
Ok, so it sounds like your car is not idling well and you have not thrown any codes yet. It could easily be a sensor or coil on it's way out, but you should have seen a code by now. So likely it is an issue with the IAC valve and throttle body. I would probably clean the MAF senor too just for grins since it's easy. Here are some links that will tell you what you need to do. If you have no codes my money is on the IAC valve and although it's not super easy it's not hard either, just a pain to get to. Clean the IAC, throttle body & MAF and report back, I bet the car runs great again. But if you do have any codes post them up first before doing anything else.
http://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-first-g...bout-yours.html
http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/knowledge...id=152&c=11
http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=30723
Couldn't agree more! The Autozone guy, IMHO, was just trying to point out that you should NOT use carb cleaner, you should use throttle body cleaner made specifically for cars with sensors, eg A/F, O2, etc. My first thought was the IACV as well. Classic symptoms.
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Ive seen several 1mz-fe (with vvt-i) timing belts break and never wipe out the valves. Do you have proof of prior statement?
God, I hope we get this resolved before I die! :D
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Right after having my oil and oil filter changed, the lifter/s became noisy upon startup. The noise goes away after about 3 – 4 minutes.
Since the problem showed up right after an oil & filter change, could the oil filter have a defective oil valve which is allowing the oil to drain back into the oil pan and is the cause of the problem?
Background:
I bought my 1999 RX300 new and it has 57,000 miles on it. Yes, 57,000 miles. I drive it every two or three days and am now averaging 3,000 annually.
I have always changed the oil every 2,000 to 3,000 miles due to the known sludge problem with this engine. In other words, I keep the engine oil very clean.
Any insight on my problem?
Thanks
BC- If it were a defective anti-drainback valve, it should only take 2-3 seconds for the noise to disappear, not 3-4 min. I would think Napa oil and filter should be good quality- but that's only a guess, going on Napa's reputation for quality. I know there are those who will disagree with me, but I respect their right to and I trust they will respect my mine also. I have been in automotive all my life, and though I know there are good major chain tire and oil change places that do that kind of service, but as for me, as a general rule, I wouldn't trust them to do that kind of service to my car for even emergency situations, much less on a routine basis. Waaaay to maaany stories of incompetent work by less than skilled personnel. I would at least much more trust the Lexus or Toyota dealers. Can still have bad experiences there but certainly less of a chance. It may not help at all, but I think for the price of an oil and filter change, I might at least consider having it done again at the Toyota dealer. At least if it still does it then, you know you probably need to try a GOOD lifter additive. Good luck!
NAPA Gold filters are made by and identical to Wix, considered by many to be one of the best filters out there. Check out Bobistheoilguy for more details. Don't know about NAPA oil.
:o
120k Miles, And Still Crusin'
in 99 - 03 Lexus RX300
Posted
Thanks. I agree with replacing them all at your convenience on your terms. Question for me and OP is should we wait for the first one to fail or just go ahead and do it now. I asked this question some time ago and got different opinions. When it comes to preventive maintenance, everyone has a different philosophy - sort of like buying extended warranties or life insurance. No right or wrong answer.