j.barleycorn

Cool, I now have unlimited global space to post attachments! Here are the troubleshooting sections of the manuals for the codes you indicate (assuming when you say "Code 1-3" you mean "Code 13"). troubleshooting_33_DIAGNOSTIC_CODE13_RPM_signal_circuit_no.2.pdf dtc31.pdf dtc4147.pdf Below is the troubleshooting section for the RPM Signal Circuit, which the Code 13 section references. This section also shows you the location of the engine speed sensor you are looking for. troubleshooting_29_DIAGNOSTIC_CODE12_17_18_RPM_signal_circuit.pdf I hope these help. Let me kow if there is anything else you need, and I will try to find it.

I was going to ask the same thing, but then I noticed he has the LS400 1992 in his signature, and that is the year of the manual I downloaded

Hello Maniek, Some questions for you... Was the car performing badly before you worked on it? You said "after a few days, when it was raining" you noticed the problem. Are you saying everything worked fine immediately after the work you did, then later the trouble started? When you say "after 2-3 minutes" everything is fine", are you saying when the engine kicks down to idle speed (~600 RPM)? You might have a short in the throttle position sensor, or it may be stuck open. Are you asking for the location of this sensor? Do you have the manual for the 1992? If not, I can email you the troubleshooting information for the diagnostic codes you indicated.

Thanks to Az for the pic upload... Arkansawer... yep, a lousy pic, with the camera strap a dangling and all. I have the rubber pad with the connectors for the mirror directional switch. The missing part is directly behind the Left-Right mirror selector switch.

Sheesh, how embarassing. After I bought the car and was going over it after getting it home, I told my wife I was going to check the fuse for the cig lighters. Since she was sitting in the driver's seat at the time, she volunteered to do it for me. She found it, removed it, showed it to me, and yep, it was fine/dandy. Just went back to square one and looked for myself. Not only was the wrong amp fuse in the cig location (too low) it was blown. Some other fuses are also either too high or missing. <_< Lesson learned: DIY no matter how kind the offer! :chairshot: The mirror switch on the other hand.... took it apart again to clean all the contacts, and found what I assume to be a missing part. Unfortunately "the total filespace required to upload all the attached files is greater than my per post or global limit" so I can't show it. It is only 55k. Still can't figure out why I was able to post a 98k .pdf before. I emailed the guy who is parting-out his 1991, so hopefully I can get it. Oh well, at least I know I can charge my cell phone in the car! Happy New Year!

Much appreciated, Az. Funny how the SEARCH function works. I had already searched numerous times for both topics and did not see any of the posts you provided (but numerous other ones on the topics). I'm going to try the magical lighter fix (pull the lighter piece out with the needle-nose and reinstall, as one guy did). I have already had the fuse in and out without success. Must admit it was nice to see so many others with the same non-fuse problem. And I will try and clean the contacts for the power mirrors, and hope for the best!

Hi Az- Yep, I saw the questionable need for the filter when I first saw the inspection procedure. I have no idea what would be filtered, unless it is burned/unburned fuel gases, and Lexus just wanted to protect our delicate noses in the rare instances the valve does it's thing. You are in the unique position to find out what it does filter, though... just throw some volts at it and inhale! And of course, post the results! :D

Az- I happened to find the specific page in the manual for the fuel pressure VSV this morning, and emailed it to you. Perhaps you didn't get the other email because it got filtered as spam? In case you don't get it, here is the description of what the switch does: The ECU turns on the fuel pressure VSV to draw the air into the diaphragm chamber of the pressure regulator if it detects that the temperature of the coolant is too high during engine starting. The air drawn into the chamber increases the fuel pressure to prevent fuel vapor lock at high engine temperatures in order to help the engine start when it is warm. Fuel pressure control ends approximately 100 seconds after the engine is started. Nice to learn something new everyday!

Any help is appreciated... Problemo #1 Both of the cigarette lighters in my 92 LS400 do not work, and did not work when I bought the car in November. I assumed a fuse was blown, but the #5 fuse is fine and the other accessories on the circuit appear OK (theft deterrent system because the light is blinking... I have not actually tried to have the alarm go off, and shift lock and air bags because I get the indicator lights on the dash) I am suspicious that it is a ground wire or something, as what are the odds both units would be broken in a non-smoking car? Problemo #2 The power side mirror control switch was loose when I bought the car. I assumed it was broken, but took the thing apart today and it seems it had just come loose. I assembled it back together (the outer plastic toggle switch in first, followed by the pad with the contact points on it, followed by the circuit board and housing). It all fit tight and the toggle switch felt and acted like it was back in business, but nothing happens when I try it. I did not check the #4 fuse, since the other accessories on the circuit (radio, CD changer, power antenna, etc) work fine. Ground wire? Whistling in the dark? :whistles: If either or both may be grounding issues, I would appreciate any specific trouble shooting instructions!

Hi Az- I emailed you the manual page I described, and a pic from my engine to make sure we are on the same page. Seems like this should not be so difficult to figure out!? But, aside from the manual and my own curiosity, I probably am not much help, as I am new to these engines and never noticed this part before.

Ok, 2nd try! I searched all over the manual, and it appears the assembly you are describing is the Fuel Pressure Vacuum Switch Valve (VSV). I may be wrong, but from what I can see the component you had identified in one of your pictures as the VSV is actually the VCV, the control valve for the EVAP purge. I tried to attach the exploded view of the cylinder head components page of the manual, but the file is too big. I also googled your part numbers in a Lexus part list and the 12076 came back as a vacuum switch valve. The other part number (184600-0621) did not come up in the search (said it was not a Lexus part number). I see the number sequence on the first part was 5 digits-5 digits, while the 2nd was 6-4. Is the number correct? All this is fine and dandy, but so far I can't find anything in the manual about this valve, or the filter. If I get some time later today I will look some more. If you want me to email the cylinder head component .pdf, let me know.

Here's the page from the 1992 LS400 manual referencing the EGR section. emissions_egr_system.pdf I'm sure it does not answer your questions, but perhaps it will offer a bit more light on the subject. I would guess your LS is the same configuration.

Alexander- Where in Sweden are you? I traveled on business there a handful of times... Sundsvall and Orebro mostly. Orebro in particular was a very beautiful city. Perhaps your lack of enthusiasm stems more from the one hour of sunlight you are currently enjoying? ;) It's funny... I have felt the opposite since buying my first LS400 in November. I am thrilled every time I drive it. I now look forward to my 92 mile round-trip commute to work, and look for any excuse to drive it. Even visits to the in-laws are (almost) welcome now! If you need a little pick me up, I suggest setting the ECT to “PoWeR” and do a few standing starts, 0-100-0. :D I think in time the near-perfect blend of performance, looks, luxury, and reliability will grow on you.

Bored at work and thought I would join in! Willpro- Not knowing the condition of the rest of the car, how much you paid for it, etc, hard to advise. You said it was regularly serviced… does this just mean oil changes? Assuming you are going to sell it and get another car in a year, for my $ I would not change the timing belt (you have a non-interference engine, so no valve damage would be expected, just stranded/towing/etc) as (in my opinion) it is likely to last another year. LS400 power steering leaks are renowned for taking out the alternator, too, so it can end up being a sad series of events. I would recommend you research this topic on the LOC and shop for a good deal to get it fixed. It can only help when you sell the car, as there is a good chance the buyer will have looked in LOC before shopping! For what it is worth, if the rest of the car is in good shape, there are MANY worse things in life than spending a little money every year to keep a first generation LS400 on the road! A fine ride that will last a good long time! ;) NC211- Busted a gut on the Gold Finger thang! :P Jflo- You are definitely getting hosed on these estimates, including mysterious $500 tune-ups. Best defense is to go in armed with knowledge from LOC! Never agree on a repair that you aren’t somewhat knowledgeable about! It will be worth your time to use the LOC SEARCH function and read-up. At the very least you will have an idea of $$$ for each repair, and be able to know when someone is blowing smoke! Good luck!

Welcome Rich and Lori- Congrats on the “new” car! I'm new to Lexus, too, having just bought a 1992 LS400 myself. Many of the questions you have are fairly common ones, so one way to find answers (or at least some discussion) is to use the Search Forum field at the bottom of the page. Very useful! In the mean time, I had some of the same issues you have, so… Lexls’ handy tutorial can be found here: http://www.lexls.com . It has many great step-by-step fixes, including your antenna and lighting questions. Check out his Places to buy/download a repair manual in the tutorial. I opted for the $10, one day download festival (option #6) from TIS. I replaced my entire antenna last week (bought a replacement on EBay) for $44 and an hour’s labor. I have also replaced the bulb on the ignition ring, fixed a sticky lock driver’s side power lock button, and done a bunch of routine maintenance stuff. You’ll find info on instrument replacement all over the LOC. Do a search for a specific problem. In the “Pinned” section at the top there are many articles on dead LCDs for the climate control and the dreaded fading needle problem. Also, check out the General Lexus Forums at the bottom of the home page. There are specific forums here for Tires/Wheels, Audio, Detailing, etc. I can’t help you with the other questions you have, but I’m sure someone will. Good luck, and Lori, give him the keys at least once in awhile!

RF, I understood the "tap" not the full convert! I appreciate it. I really don't want to convert, and will hope for the best when I recharge in the Spring.

Thanks for the thoughts and the welcome... Kewl- Bought it on Ebay for $5700 after several months of evaluations and research (including this Forum). Black exterior, gray interior, TRAC, heated seats with memory. I commute 92 miles round trip to work, so I was looking for an exciting, comfortable ride from a car that is reliable and relatively economical. Add it all together and the LS400 is the obvious choice! I may have paid too much, but older LS400s are few and far between where I live, and after comparing the relative costs of flights to warmer climates, time off from work, and return drives, I figured I'd cut my Lexus teeth on a first generation Northeast driver like this one. The drive train and suspension are quiet and tight. I have the detailed maintenance records until it changed hands to the second owner. The timing belt had been changed at 60,000 miles, as well as the alternator just before I bought it, and these facts helped me with the decision. The power steering system seems to be free of leaks, although I need to research where to look for early signs. I don't want to have to replace the new alternator any time soon. And although it has spent its life in the Northeast, there are no signs of obvious rust anywhere. I'm sure it lurks in unseen places and will do my best to keep the car going for as long as practical. Known problems which I have not yet fixed include the A/C, the obligatory blacked-out climate/time LCD, and a broken remote side mirror switch. I’ll wait for the spring to take a shot at the A/C, and I plan on sending the LCD to JW as described in the LOC. The mirror switch is another story, as it is pushed in and perhaps not worth repairing, as I am going to be the principal driver. I found out after the sale that the antenna does not retract fully (only about 70%, which I see is also common). Was going to live with it, but I just purchased a replacement Hirschmann power antenna on EBay, for $30. It came with a 1-year warranty. For such a small amount of money, I can't see not replacing it. In fact, I just got it in the mail this afternoon and am about to throw it on. I love the car and already know from here on I will always own a Lexus. I look forward to living and learning with the help from the good folks here at LOC. I have also downloaded the repair manuals, tech bulletins, etc. for the ‘92 as suggested by Carl Pearson on his excellent web site, so as time goes on and I get my hands dirty, I will be able to throw my two cents in!

Hi everyone- I'm a relatively new owner (November 9) of a 1992 LS400 with 93,300 miles. It drives and looks great. This forum was a tremendous help prior to and after the purchase, as I avoided numerous issues and fixed others with the great tutorials and threads. Many thanks to everyone! I’m wondering if I could get some suggestions on troubleshooting my A/C. I bought the car with the knowledge that it was not working. Seller said it probably just needs recharge, but he had bought it at an auction so is not necessarily familiar with the Lexus or A/C, so I am assuming this opinion is meaningless. I’ve searched the Club for a similar request, and while I have learned bits and pieces, I am looking for a step-by-step process designed to eliminate what it is NOT, so I can try the cheapest and most-likely fixes first. I am a fair DIY mechanic, although I have zero experience with A/C systems. Some background on the A/C: • Was told by seller the A/C does not blow cold. Since I live in New York and bought it in November (in Massachusetts), I have not been able to experience how “uncold” it blows. • The car’s mileage/use history is kind of odd. Per CarFax, first 3+ years averaged ~18,000 miles/year. Next 4 years averaged 2,500 miles. All service documented at one Lexus dealership, including timing belt change at 60,000. Sold, and next 6+ years averaged 4,800 miles. The car has always lived in Massachusetts (around Wlimington and Melrose, in case there are any locals reading this thread!). • I don’t know how long this has been an issue with the car. I have read here that refrigerant can evaporate from non-use (which is why I bored you all with the mileage history above) and also read if the A/C is not run often, the seals will be ruined (?) • The climate control is blacked out (will replace via JW soon), so I can’t see diagnostics results. • If I turn on the A/C, the motor runs, and no lights blink on the dash. I have read here that if the A/C light is blinking I have system issues. I have also read running the A/C without refrigerant will kill the compressor, so I have only done this once. • I’ve learned here I can buy Freon on EBay after signing the appropriate forms, etc. If I can fix the system without much agony, I don’t plan to upgrade it from Freon. So… Should I start with buying Freon, charging, and seeing if that works? If not, what do you folks recommend? If so, and it does not work, what should I do first? Thank you for any light you can shed!

You could try JB WELD. Their products have been around for decades. Google it for more information. Not knowing the size and location of the damage, I hesitate to offer this fix, but I used JB STIK on a pin-hole leak I had in the differential housing of my 4Runner this past summer. Although very small, it leaked pretty good under pressure. I was skeptical, although anyone I asked that had ever used it sang its praises. The STIK cost about $4, the repair took 30 minutes, and it has never leaked again (10,000 + miles to date on it). If nothing else, this should provide some piece of mind while you search for a replacement tank, or save up the $ for a weld repair. Here's a blurb from their web site: Quick, easy and clean. J-B STIK Weld is a hand kneadable, steel-reinforced epoxy putty adhesive/sealant that will plug holes and make permanent repairs on wet and dry surfaces. It will even cure completely submerged in water or GASOLINE! Simply knead thoroughly, with your fingers, a portion necessary for the repair and apply. J-B Stik will fully cure 20-30 minutes; and can be drilled, sanded, filed, tapped, machined, and painted. J-B Stik requires no tools or "prep time", and makes no mess.

Accorning to this Gates document, all Lexus engines through 1998 are non-interference. www.audiworld.com/tech/pix/timingbelt.pdf Not that I am advocating to drive a car until the timing belt breaks.

Impossible to tell whether to change a timing belt or not, but rightly or wrongly I have never changed one on any vehicle I have ever owned, and never had one fail. As long as your engine type will not be damaged if the belt breaks, and you can afford to be stranded/inconvenienced if it does, the cost is about the same as fixing it ahead of time! Currently, my 1996 Toyota 4Runner (175,000 miles) and 2000 Honda Odyssey (120,000) still have the original belts. (Knocking loudly on wood!) I hope to change the belts on these if/when the water pump goes, instead of the other way around. Seems the pump would go before the belt... but what do I know? Good luck!

Hello everyone- Proud first time owner of a 1992 LS400. 93,600 miles and in excellent shape, with less than normal wear. Black exterior, gray interior, TRAC, heated seats with memory. I am the third owner. Bought it on Ebay for $5700 in Massachusetts after several months of evaluations and research (including this Forum). I commute 92 miles round trip to work, so I was looking for an exciting, comfortable ride from a car that is reliable and relatively economical. Add it all together and the LS400 is the obvious choice! I have the detailed maintenance records until it changed hands to the second owner. The timing belt had been changed at 60,000 miles. Although it has spent its life in the Northeast, there are no signs of rust anywhere. Known problems which I have not yet fixed include A/C not blowing cold, the obligatory time/temp LCD black out, and a broken remote side mirror switch. I’ll wait for the spring to worry about the A/C, and I plan on sending the LCD to JW as described in the LOC. The mirror switch is another story, as it is pushed in and perhaps not worth repairing, as I am going to be the principal driver. I love the car and already know from here on I will always own a Lexus. I look forward to living and learning with the help from the good folks here at LOC. I have also downloaded the repair manuals, tech bulletins, etc. for the ‘92 as suggested by Carl Pearson on his excellent web site, so as time goes on and I get my hand dirty, I will be able to throw my two cents in. Thank you to all the contributors. I spent hours reading your pearls of wisdom before making my buy, and I could not be happier!