Leadfoot

Has anyone used a timing light on their UCF10 before? Just wondering if anyone can confirm for me that the special service tool (09843-18020 Diagnosis Check Wiring for connecting terminals TE1 and E1 of the check connector as stated in 15B of IG-19 repair manual) is just a wire with pins. I assume that the wires just short the terminals together to signal the ECU into a non advanced state (just like taking the vacuum line off an old dizzy) but as this is my first "computer" car I don't want to fry its brains by shorting it! Thanks in advance, Leadfoot

Sorry to hear that Widowmaker, is this mechanic an independant or Lexus? What was there diagnosis technique? I suspect my motor mounts are bad too so will be interested if your vibration is cured, but I also believe mine could be ignition related. My vibration is really bad around 1800rpm, which is apparently where the ECU adjusts the advance curve to be just under the knocking point. Also I always like to mark my parts with a punch mark or similar and always ask to see the stuff they removed, just to see if the mark is there. A great way to test the honesty of your mechanics on non obvious parts. Good luck!

Been following this thread since the beginning and you are one hell of determined character. Really looking forward to see who the culprit is, its better than a detective novel. Good luck NC, you will crack it for sure. Nothing beats perseverance, and like ArmyofOne says, if its made by a human........... Its also really good to see someone update their thread too, makes for an excellent resource in the future. Keep up the good fight!

The wiggling of the gearstick makes me think the neutral start switch on your box is in need of attention. Could be dirty contacts, could be on the way out. I will look into this tonight....... Good luck. Leadfoot.

The fuel filter is right underneath the car, it is inline between the tank and the engine about half way up the drivers side passenger door. It looks like a tiny oil filter. As always refer the lexus mecca at http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/EFI/fuelfilter.html Cheers!, Leadfoot

Absolutely, positively, never ever ever run it without a battery. The thought of it just makes my wallet cringe! With the engine running does the battery terminal voltage equal 13.9~15V at 2000rpm? I don't expect so as the charge light is on. Therefore you will want to check the round connector with three pins going into the altenator. One of these pins should have 0–4 V to ground WITH IGNITION SW AT ON POSITION AND ENGINE NOT RUNNING. If the alt. regulator is not getting juice the proper output voltage for the system won't be generated. My altenator was taken out by a failed steering pump. It will pay to work out what killed yours....... Good luck Leadfoot.

The new pump I had installed superceded the old design. Toyota have removed the air valve on the pump (the one that caused all those leakage problems) and now I have an ugly screw plugging the pipe on the intake manifold where the tube used to go. So you may actually have the right part! What is the main difference? Fingers crossed.

You rang? Seriously I find that 60 miles an hour gives me superb economy on long distance ~28mpg. This is in a '92 with 150K miles on motor. However I cannot get better than 21 mpg urban no matter how slow I take off from the lights and how carefully I drive. Luckily for me gasoline comes out of my entertainment budget! Baja, I will probably get flamed for saying this but I have found the offroad capability of mine very good, although if the police ever find out it was me I am in big trouble!

oooopps, double posted by accident.

Wow, that is the last place I would have ever looked for the problem. You guys do know your stuff! What a great resource for owners in despair!

I put 4 new Continental Eco Contacts on my car for a trip on the autobahn in Germany and the ride was fine up to 120mph (my wife wouldn't let me go faster). They handled well around the Nurburgring too, not a squeal from them even when pressed hard. Have only done 2000 miles on them so longevity is not known yet. I can't complain....... Leadfoot.

My manual says SAE J1703 or FMVSS NO.116 DOT 3 fluid.

I don't think its fuses, but to answer your question the starter circuit is fed by a relay that is found in the engine bay junction box (next to the battery). This relay is fed by a fusible link (use a torch to see into the top of the link to see if it is burned out). The fusible links are next to the junction box and are BOLTED IN so if one of these is blown don't try and pull it out. You have to disassemble the fuse link holder and unclip the side covers to get to the retaining bolts. Might seem like a hassle but they didn't want them to ever come loose own their own!! I had the same sort of thing happen to me and it turned out to be a failed alternator. To check this take the covers off the battery terminals when the engine is running and check for 13.9–15.1 VOLTS WITH ENGINE RUNNING AT 2000 RPM AND 25°C (77°F) 13.5–14.3 VOLTS WITH ENGINE RUNNING AT 5000 RPM AND 115°C (239°F) If you don't have the above then you are running off the residual charge in your battery, and you won't get far. Alternators tend to go because they are situated under the power steering pump, so check that the power steering is not the root cause of the failure. Good luck. Leadfoot.

I had a look at my manual and it stated to; 1. Remove the air duct covers at the front and all the connected hoses on the pump. 2) Remove the drive belt. Loosen the drive belt tension by turning the drive belt tensioner counterclockwise, and remove the drive belt. 3. Remove the pump pulley. (a) remove the pulley set nut (it calls for service tool SST 09278–54012, which is a c-spanner with perpendicular prongs that engage holes in the pulley) ( b ) Remove the pulley. 4. Remove the pump assembly. Undo the bolts and nut then tilt the pump onto its back to easily remove it. 5. To install the pump assembly (a) Loosely install the three bolts and the nut. ( b ) Torque the bolts and nut on the pump assembly starting with the lowest and work uppwards. Torque: Bolts 39 NVm (400 kgfVcm, 29 ftVlbf) Nut 43 NVm (440 kgfVcm, 32 ftVlbf) 6. Connect the pressure tube. Make sure the stopper is touching the pump housing (as far away from the pulley as possible), then torque the union bolt. Torque: 49 NVm (500 kgfVcm, 36 ftVlbf) 6b. It doesn't say anything about the pulley, I assume you put it on here (sorry no torque reading). 7. Bleed the power steering system. Good luck! Leadfoot.

The solenoid filter shown in the picture (in the link above) has a fine mesh filter over the inlet to the solenoid. The solenoid positions itself according to the vehicle speed and this is what gives you your speed sensitivity in your power steering. The flow control valve (which is part of the rack assembly) has a small relief valve in it which is fed through the solenoid. This relief valve controls the maximum pressure of the pump. The amount of this maximum pressure is very important; if it is too low, there will be insufficient power steering assist and if too high, it will have an adverse effect on the pressure hoses, oil seals, etc. That is why a clogged filter is a bad thing as it affects the correct pressures. Hope that helps. Leadfoot.

Secondhand from a wreckers is often the best as the Lexus replacement part is only available when combined with the control valve assembly (which the solenoid filter actually protects!). You don't have to buy a whole rack but you cannot get the filter molding by itself. Most old ones should clean up if you are gentle. I wasn't and poked a great hole in mine. I had my steering rack refurbished here in the UK and they said they replaced it, but I have not been brave enough to confirm this by taking it off and checking it. You should be able to strike the edge of the thin nut that holds the solenoid on and knock it loose. Please don't take offence from this, but make sure you are hitting it anti-clockwise! Good luck, Leadfoot.