cardona6569

Hi: I would not switch to sync due to the possibility of having problems with the oil seals of the engine, some smoke issues/leaks due to the later. A high mileage oil or a sync blend which uses both types of oil could be a good compromise. The sync oil tends to break down seals due to the high cleaning agents and better flow properties, I seen this all the time in the Aircraft engines, they only used sync on them. In a Lex you could have switched until like 70,000 to 80,000 miles, but at this time the engine is in a very high mileage and you want to keep all variables as stable as possible unless you want to spend money then you could change and repair whatever goes! CCF

I would clean the Radiator with degreaser on the outside metal fins where the air passes to cool the coolant inside the metal, you also need to flush/clean that radiator system and replace the old coolant with a Lex or Toyota or a qualified radiator tech, this has to be done really well; if no change I would replace the radiator cap with an orginal or a replacement that meets the same specifications, if all that failed, I would then go ahead and replace the Thermostat specially, if it is more than seven years old. I think you have one of those parts that is becoming slugish. If any of that is not bad you got a bad head gasket, you could use one of those liquid seal leaks for a cheap remedy until you cough up the bucks to do the expesive job but that should be certified by a pro before thinking about it anything related to a bad gasket! Those usually do not fail easily unless the car has been overheating a lot.

Have them check your suspension, but what it looks like is bad aligment, and struts. Check in the strut area for leaks after the car is sitting overnight, if you find pudles of clear hydrolic fluid you probably have bad struts. The passenger side is prone for this wear since the roads tend to be worst in the gutter side plus the parking is more to that side. Like other members said it is about time to check the whole suspension, since is mostly made out of rubber the heat and cold temperatures tend to wear it out. If you can find poly replacements for that rubber even as the ride will become stiffer they will last longer. If you go with the OEM parts you will have a new car again. When you do finish this whole enterprise, remember to do tire rotations, they seem very necessary on this car because of the heavy weight in the front versus the lighter weight by comparison on the rear wheels. Even as the manual states 7,500 miles for my year you could probably get away with 10,000, if yo do not see bad areas forming and keep up with the tire pressure. I you do find that only the driver side strut is bad and want to save a penny you can replace only that one, thats why is called independant suspencion, but the best thing would be to replace both. CPR

Could not see any Pic, please post. Cris

The file you asked for Blake for the valve covers. I could not upload it in the email section do not know hwy. C em_58.pdf

I bought mine from Rockauto Felpro brand, the brand racers usually use, no problems so far no leaks. I would also recommend the instalation of lock washers on the bolts this will ensure the torque stays put and ensure less leaks over the years. CPR

All that matters is that you like it. If you need more space then it is your car. But take a drive first and then you will know if you really want it or it is just a thought you had. C

Hope, you can solve your problem soon. I tend to agree with the last post, you should get a valve and see what happens, or open the valve and see if it is not broken inside or really worn out. C

I would do the following: P0763 - change the shift Solenoid C which has a malfunction malfunction. It does have a voltage to check, I just do not have my manual on me at the moment. One more thing, make sure your battery is in good condition, you never know. C

If your car is black Id be very careful, since it is very prone to scratch. C

Hello: The best economy are in the 90-06 models, even as the new models are nice they do not give the same economy, but they tend to be more powerful. Even the LS 600 gives kind of a poor fuel economy, they said in a magazine that to recoup the money the car would have to be over 50 years old or more, I still buy one if I had the money, but would expect Lexus to make the more eficient, not because the price of fuel but because the impact on the quality of the air, this is with the understanding that Lexus are makers of cars with that have some of the lowest emissions on the road.

Hello: The oil filter is in the likes of an Aircraft engine style. If they would use metal screen wafers, instead of paper, all you would have to do is clean them with gas and presto no waste. But mercantilism needs to be alive and well. C

Hello: I will sound like one of the moderators, but if you do the search there have been others who had done it without removing so many parts. Just search them in the older posts and ask them if needed to. Good Luck. But make sure you do need to change them, usually they do not go easily, the rear ones that is. I would not touch them unless your rear tires are being eaten in a different scaled mode or they sound when going into a road distortion. C

It is a general recommendation to lubricate the rubber seals on any car door, since they become cracked with heat and usage, U V rays etc. Cris I am so thankful to you guys coz my 05 LS430 developed the same creaking sound and it was so annoying. The cabin used to be so quiet but the sanctuary was lost after rear left door/window seemed to be creaking. I bought some silicone spray yesterday and geneously applied to the door rubber and window seals and the creaking is all gone. I am so :) . Now i wonder was it the door or the window or both. I suspect it was the window. Will see if it develops again and try to narrow it down to door or window. Thanks once again.

If you have not changed the tranny mount have it checked, it is most likely toasted by the heat at this time. I would also check for a spark misfire and change fuel filter also.

Let me tell you I am also quite proud of you, being a good repairer and a great wife, see the quote" (raided my husbands workshop), loved this comment of yours. CCF

Hello: Have anyone done the Air Bag 120 month inspection. If known: what it is about and cost in dealer. Thanks CPR

Hi: Look in this forum or in Clublexus old threads, there is a free fix for the problem. I did it in mine like in 30 minutes. You have to disasemble the plastics see the telescopic motor washer, shim it and grease it a little and presto it works again. Look for it in this forum first, or maybe some of the members will give you the link but start from the older forums to the new ones since it was an old post. CPR

It may be time to change your coolant pressure cap, they tend to go bad. CPR

Hi: I tend to think that the Mass Air Flow Sensor went bad temporarily, like it was clogged with something and then it became free, or it is failing electronically. I would clean up the sensor in question, and if the problem returns I would have it checked the the Ohmemeter for the resistances. Had similar problems with two cars and it was the Mass A/F sensor. Check also the state of the air filter if it is very dirty from running on dusty roads that may be the problem. Fixing the leaks is a great thing, since it could kill your alternator being an early model. Check also your grounds in the engine make sure they are not corroded the same with the battery charge status and terminals. If the problem persists you might want to have the tranny sensors read, and while you at it take the valve body out and have it clean up by a pro, making sure also that your tranny filter and magnets are ultra clean. CPR Please post when issue is resolved with the cure/s. Thaks

Before you go and spend 300.00 to 500.00 in the new complet hose, make sure you see where the leak is coming from. I can almost bet is from the Bolt Union that holds the H-Press Hose that is connected to the P/S Pump, if that is your case the fix is very cheap just look up this part number 96341-41603 that is for a 1998 but get the same for your year model, and presto. The dealer wanted to replace the hose when the problem is not in the hose but the union that becomes burr with the years. Mine has 10 years running I bought the part because they said it was leaking again and when my indy mechanics check when making a repair of the Rack the found everything pristine, the new leak was in the rack and valve covers wich get mixed and is believed that is the H-Press Hose. Clean the valve cover area of the engine, and the P/S Pump bolt union area and start real troubleshouting, the dealer all it wants is to fix your car but at expense of your pockets not theirs. I would not be surprised to find out they put the Hi-press hose in, and replace the bolt and valve covers but charge the more expensive part the hose, since the covers can be had for 48 and the bolt, uion for 15 to 20, but the hose will run for about 600 when is not really needed, good profits dont you think. I charge 300 plus for two cheapt parts which in my goodness I will throw in as a gift, been there. http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=htt...l%3Den%26sa%3DG Great product to clean the engine, but I do not get a dime from them people I reccomend it because it works great and it does not seem harmful to plastic and other materials in the engine bay, follow instructions on the product carefully cover sensors to avoid problems later on. CPR PD, I got one of them sitting sell it for 12 plus shiipping it is in the bag. CPR 96341-41603 Bolt Union

I used Black Magic Engine Shine 2-1 in the link below there is the product and video aobut it. My engine is clean and had no problems covered the air flow sensor and kept the plastic covers on top of the engine. If you plan to take all the covers out I advice covering the sensors to avoid problems, that is with the engine off after it has been warm as the product states just before you put water in it. I may need second applications on extremely dirty areas which you could do without using a hose, get you a spray bottle with water for those hard spots. The results are impresive, but be as careful as possible. When you reinstall the plastics use Mothers Back to black, black chrome shine and your plastics will look new. CPR http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=htt...l%3Den%26sa%3DG

You can buy a download version for 7, the drawback is that when you look into the suspension secition you have to look item by item unil you find what you need, it is in PDF format. This is the link and the price went lower it is like 7 ( Paid 20 for mine from the same place), bucks for the whole thing. It is good quality and you can view and print it as you need you can even zoom the pages to your need. I do not get any monetary rewards or owe this company or have/had any dealings with it other than when I bought the manual as explained above. C. Cardona http://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/358...00-car-workshop

I called Lexus Customer Assistance and asked: when the Fuel filter was scheduled to be changed?-; they did say that there was not a specific mileage/time, this because they rarely go bad. If you would replace your filter with an OEM I would run it for 100k if you use any other non-OEM brand I would change it every 50,000. C.Cardona

Well my advice is to have it diagnose by a reputable mechanic or dealer. Most likely you will need to replace the lower control arm of the passenger side, upper controll arm of the passenger side and check really good the driver side since it does not get damaged as bad. This should cost you about 3000 (buying both control arms lower/upper and lower ball joints) parts and labor after that you can probably run the car for the next ten years and do not worry about the suspension. Mostly is the bushings but many of them do not have replacements so you need to buy an expensive metal part while the problem is within the rubber bushings that could be bought for about half of the price. C. Cardona