cardona6569

I had a similar problem, I changed the Radiator cap, it improved but did not cure it, but when I changed the Fan Clutch all went to normal. Try to run the car without AC and see if it does not happen! Also if you have not changed your thermostat It may be a good time to do so! CCF

Hi Just bought a SC 430 Gold Lexus maintained .

This car is a ton of fun to drive! The vehicle, could have better handling but is adequate, since it is a bit heavier that most sports cars, I do not take corners too fast with it, but a lot faster than with my other Lexus an LS 400 98. My car came with the antenna mast that was bent, I already fixed it with the instructions found in here and the net. I also repaired the passenger side speaker moulding, a bit harder but nothing out of this world. I have the known issue with the tire sensors, mine does not make any noise just stays on, checked air pressure and it is at the proper sticker levels, but it is a problem, such an expensive car with a system so troublesome; they should had made something easier to work with and not so expensive to repair & replace; sensors that you cannot replace the battery, that will go dead at a prescribed interval, that is bad altogether. Note, I asked my mechanic to revise the car and asked him to clean the P/S reservoir, and he found it very dirty with a lot crud at the bottom of the reservoir; I recommend if you have not done it, take the P/S reservoir out clean it, and then put it back and flush the P/S system. I replaced my fluid with Hydraulic fluid that do not have cleaning agents that will create crud in the system. My mechanic has proven this by changing his car with this fluid it has been running it for 5 years thus, never having a problem with hoses or pumps, but he has a Mitsubishi, will see how it goes in the Lex. I already lubed the convertible mechanism with white lithium and all rubbers with silicone lubricant, no leaks so far. Took it in a long trip very comfortable for a sports cars. Taking the top down is a unique feeling, whoever has tried most probably loves it, I know I do. Next thing is to retouch the front fascia paint and take it to the open road! Now I KNOW what is all the buzz about this car.

Paid 21,500 financed 16,000 so I have a joke for a payment of about $283.00 USD for 5 years, or something like that, since its taken out of my check autonomously. I am happy as I can be next Saturday will take it to a panoramic route in the mountains. Life was ok now is great!

Hello Friends:

I know its been a great While since I posted, and yes I still have my old 98, still runing great with almost 200,000 on the clock and seven years and over a 100,000, miles with me. But today is a joyful day in which I just took possesion of a 2005 SC 430 Gold, with 65000 miles, just a baby and I am begining to know my prince, since I already have my king the LS. The car runs great, very nice throtle response, the suspension a bit more stiffer but since it is a kind of sporty car that is the way it should be. A bit more noise than the 400 expected since it is not solid and roads here are not pristine, they working on it I hope. It has minor cosmetics in the piant the interior show a bit of usage but other than that the car is great got it for 21,500 the owner wanted 23k all services done at lLexus of Puerto Rico, and the owner said that nothing has broken with the car unlike his jag that is begining to turn into a "little shop of horrors" I told him to get something else. The engine is quiet like calmed ocean. I m just super happy elated to say the least, I already bought white lithum grease to lube some of the mechanics of the top, silicone spray to keep the rubber in good condition and some new leather Lexol, cleaner and preserver, plus some a sun visor. I will keep posted of the new developments. The LS will take some new parts, fuel filter, stab. bar links and new spark plugs because he is the workhorse of the house, the other one is pleasure fun car to drive, that will run all around Puerto Rico! HAVE A SUPER HAPPY 4TH OF JULY OF THIE GREAT NATION THAT I AM PROUD TO BE PART OF! May the prosperity cover all of us in the US!

God Bless America The Beautiful!

I got five also and still love that 98. Replaced the other day an alternator.

I need the part # or name to the left of that in the passenger side. I bent mine in a parking lot, got it to get fixed the bodyworker told me he tried to get it as closed to orginal but it does not look good. I been wanting to buy one since that time. Thanks

Hello: If you have an older LS this is normal but It can be improved. You first need to clean the Throttle Body with a good T-Body cleaner. Check your air filter. Clean your airflow sensor. You should pay special attention to the front of the TB there are some small things on the upper part near where you took off the air intake hose, those get flooded with gunk. That should help your car to get up to 400 rpm and that where is going to be for the most part unless air temp needs it to be in any other higher setting or you are using the AC. If the car stalls you have a hosing problem, with some of the vacuum lines, many of them are brittle by now. Check and replace, but one at a time, because you can get them switch and have stalling problems. You could also change your idle speed control but that is a 600.00 plus part that might get your car all the time at 600 +-50 RPM's. But do you want to spend the money? No I would not. And Ultimately after all that, you could also change or repair your computer, another ton of money. Best practical solution clean up and use it at 400 rpm's which it would not be a great problem and will ultimately save you gas. Note before doing anything with the Idle speed control or computer need to have this diagnosed by a competent shop/dealer or tech not on your own, unless you are one of the above because we are talking mega bucks. Just trying to help with a pragmatic approach. CCF

I got a 98 and just finished changing mine. The problem is that the black plastic cover has one bolt just below the tensioner, and need to remove the cam cover and push that plastic of that cover to get it in. After that is just a snap. They also modified the part so you cannot replace just the pulley, have to replace the whole thing. I think they went to use one just like the LS 430 and it seems lighter, hopefully will be as durable as mine.

C. Cardona

nah, in my case it was one of the timing belt pulleys and it was whining because of the bad bearing. but to get to it i had to remove all the parts in front of the engine and aux belt was one of them.

I suggest to take to a really good mechanic or to the dealer. The Lex scanners are better because they were made specifically for your car from the factory. I know it cost a lot. You could also have a bad vvt-i, they have to do a lot with the iddle. CCF

Hey Zee, way to stick with it.

I'm going out of the box here. My 91 did some similar type things. Really knocked me on my a%# for a while. Yes I smelled gas too. Turned out that I had a corroded gas line that was allowing the car to suck air thus throwing off the computer+mix+sensors. When I eventually talked to the Lexus techs they said they have seen this problem before. I bought a new gas line and filter. It was a bear of a job but everything settled down after that.

If the codes are suggesting any type of lean condition you might want to do a visual on the entire fuel rail from tank to engine. I live in the NE where they use salt during the winter and the corrosion was located right where you'd expect to see salt water hitting the body.

It might be worth a look.

max

You need to inspect the Timing belt area if any of those engine oil leks are leaking in there, that should be your first leak to repair and if it is the vvti it will cost a lot of money, but If you have a good mechanic all he has to do is open the vvt-i replace the main gasket in there which Lexus do not sell and put everthing in the same place and its done, and at the same time since you are in the same area the valve gasket and the crank seals should get replaced. Use Felpro gasket for the valve corvers, they sell them at a good price in www.rockauto.com, I recommended them to another member and he is very happy with them. PS Steering could be the gasket on the fitting in the Main PS line that connect to the pump or the hose itself. They sell a good replacement on line for the hose and the fitting can be had for 15-30 at the dealer. Good Luck!

CCF

I could really use your advice!

On my 1998 LS with 187,000 miles the dealer tells me I have the following leaks:

• Lower Oil Pan leaks
  
• Valve cover gaskets leaking
  
• Cam seals leaking
  
• Power steering pump is leaking slightly (this is new from 3,000 miles ago)
  

I know I am not giving you severity of the leaks because I have not personally inspected yet but none are so severe that there have been spots on the garage floor. Which are of most concern for causing other problems and ought to be addressed first? I don't have the cash to do them all at once and from looking at the DIY posts the valve and cam seals look beyond my skills. I might try the O-ring on the Power Steering reservior if it looks like the leak may be coming from that point.

I bought it and it works good the only problem is that you have to look thngs by numbers it is not ordered by names, it would say engine, and it presents you with 50 PDF files without names, you can name them but it takes a longtime, because once you open the file it has the name. But for the price it is good and I have posted parts in this forum. C

1998 1999 2000 LEXUS LS400 SERVICE SHOP MANUAL

this is listed on ebay

YOU ARE BUYING A 1998 1999 2000 LEXUS LS400 SHOP/SERVICE MANUAL. IT COVERS ALL MODELS FROM THAT YEAR. YOU WILL RECIEVE A PDF VERSION TO READ AND USE INSTANTLY AFTER PAYMENT. IT IS VERY COMPLETE AND A MUST HAVE BOOK FOR ANY 1998 1999 2000 LEXUS LS400 OWNER.

This manual contains technical information for the 1998 1999 2000 LEXUS LS400 :

Introduction

Lubrication & Maintenance

Suspension

Differential & Driveline

Brakes

Clutch

Cooling

Audio/Video

Chime/Buzzer

Electronic Control Modules

Engine Systems

Heated Systems

Horn

Ignition Control

Instrument Cluster

Lamps

Message Systems

Power Systems

Restraints

Speed Control

Vehicle Theft Security

Wipers/Washers

Navigation/Telecommunication

Wiring

Engine

Exhaust System

Frame & Bumpers

Fuel System

Steering

Transmission and Transfer Case

Tires/Wheels

Body

Heating & Air Conditioning

Emissions Control

Component and System Index

YOU WILL RECIEVE THIS TO YOUR PAYPAL ADDRESS WITHIN 15 MINUTES. NOTE: IF YOU DO NOT RECIEVE IT PLEASE CHECK YOUR JUNK MAIL OR TURN OFF YOUR SPAM FILTER.

YOU ARE RECIEVING A PDF VERSION THAT EVERY COMPUTER CAN VIEW AS LONG AND AS MUCH AS YOU LIKE. YOU CAN PRINT OUT THE WHOLE THING OR JUST THE PAGES YOU NEED!!

anyone have any info on this, is it any good??

Hello:

I feel the car is less noisy with it on.

You probably can make it as long as the plastic is hard plastic, since it will be exposed to a lot of heat from the LS Engine.

I wonder if its possible to make one from a big plastic sheet.

Hi:

I guess our answer is to get a new IACV about a 700.00 part and see if it fixes it. Or clean the whole area really good that should improve it somewhat. Also the low idle tends to happen when the days are hotter if you notice in colder days it stays right on the money, but since yours sometimes shuts off, you might want to check your fuel filter and air filters. Mine can be at 400 rpms but doesn't cut off. If you never changed fuel filter do it, you do not want clogged inyectors or a bad pump in the future. As a last resort you might want to check the TPS and related parts but that should be done by profesionals, sometimes the tps wears out and causes problems like yours that the car shuts off. Seafoam it also it helps. Do not listen to opinion that you need a new TB unless you get empirical evidence of this component fault. We all have complained about the IACV but everyones lives with it without changing it, which may be the cure since more or less all of them have over a 100,000 miles or ten or more years of wear tear and sometimes old dirt. It might be as simple as a gasket in that valve failing and air escaping. Make sure you clean that TB and the tubes compartments in the close area. Also check the rubber hosing under that plastic Lexus cover they crack.

Cris

Greetings to all members of this distinguished Forum:

Sometime ago my car tranny started slipping when cold in the mornings or when it first went into Drive. I though as my dealer suggested that a flush on a 120,000 miles tranny was not good for the car. I checked Fluid added some to the proper level, to no results, the car kept slipping when put into drive, I also added Trans X which cured that in all my other cars, no result. I started to think my tranny even not going bad because it only did it once in the day, something was wrong. As one of my other mechanics advised me, run it until it really breaks down because if you send it to get rebuild at the beginning of the slipping or at the end it will cost about the same, he is talking mostly about american cars in which he mostly worked for me at the time, he has never touched my Lex. In case that was not enough, suddenly my steering started to get heavier at times without any reason, I had replaced the rack and I know the main PS line has two very small leaks, (told by my new mechanic after a two hour run in his shop for it to start leaking), his advise, run it the leak is not a dangerous or big one and check the fluid until you get a new line, as I write, the car is in his shop to get that line replaced and new shocks, originals; (learned from this forums that if you want the soft ride orginal struts/shocks are the way to go); next what worked for me.

I DECIDED TO TAKE A CHANCE AND BOUGHT TRANS TUNE, FROM THE GOOD PEOPLE OF SEAFOAM. (It is known the said additive/fuel cleaner WORKS VERY GOOD, IF YOU ASK ME AND OTHERS IN THIS FORUM AND OTHER FORUMS IN THE NET). I read the instructions and used what it indicated on the label as and additive in the tranny without flushing the system, and took about a capfull and a half and added it to the PS system. Took the car on a long drive. Next morning got the car out cold after letting it warm about a minute or less took it out and no more slipping, and the same happened to the steering no more heavy sterring, which at times seemed to try to lock up. I know I did not follow the instructions for usage in the PS system as specified on the can but since at this time the PS system main hose is being changed the fluid will be mostly new and should have no more problems.

I will like to point out that in no way I do represent sell, or have any other part with Seafoam products or else, I am just sharing my experience, my results do not indicate that yours will be the same but I feel this are some of the best 9 bucks I spent and still have almoust half a can in my garage.

Note: My PS System runs on Mobil Synch ATF since the change of Rack, the tranny runs on mostly Toyota ATF Type IV, the OEM recommended fluid minus some add ons, (less than half a quart). that I had to do of Valvoline Import Fluid which the label said it was compatible with the Toyota OEM and was forced to do so since it was on an Sunday and the Lexus dealer does not open, will be all corrected when it gets to 150,000 at which time the tranny will be flushed by the dealer.

Sincerely, Chris Puerto Rico

Please Check the Nissan Murano 2003 trany failures, many thousands and so on, NIssan is not perfect either. CCF

I understand, but why is it that some of the trannys in many American cars and trucks and Nissans seems to go forever without any intervention of changes at 15k miles? I am telling you Lexus has a engineering flaw in their designs, for whatever reason. You would think after building such nice cars that the transmission would have the same reliability as the engine. What gives?

Change the Air filter if not new and clean the airflowsensor, the one next to the air cleaner, or maybe replace it. Clean it firts see if it is different. If not will have to scan the car and have a mechanic to check that sensor voltage. CCF

Change the Air filter if not new and clean the airflowsensor, the one next to the air cleaner, or maybe replace it. Clean it firts see if it is different. If not will have to scan the car and have a mechanic to check that sensor voltage. CCF

I have the same problem, I had my mechanic check the ohms in the connections they were all good. He opened the speedometer it work better for about a year. Now the same problem is back. I think we are going to have to buy a new speedometer, is about 300.00. CCF

Look at the recent forum entries about the subject, there is a fix for that. CCF

I have a 90 Lexus LS400 and my driver side window won't work. All my other windows and my sunroof are working properly. Any ideas what the problem might be?

www.lexls.com look at the tutorials

Try spraying silicone spray on the antenna while forcing it downward -- that sometimes worked for me when I had a 90 LS. There are threads somewhere on this forum on repairing antennas. I remember people buying replacement antenna assemblies on ebay.

I tried the silicone spray. It cleans off a lot of the gunk but the antenna still won't retract. I can hear the motor making noise like it's trying to make it retract but it seems to be stuck. Any other suggestions?

Check trunk gasket, blow air on the vent areas of the moonroof. Pour some water in the back of the trunk by the glas area with your trunk open so you can see were it is going, with red kool aid or some other liquid of red color without sugar. CCF

Hi,

For some odd reason, I'm getting a small puddle of water forming at the bottom of my trunk. It happens after heavy rain. When I first saw it happen I immediately sealed the rubber plug with silicon sealant (the edging of the plug), but that does not seem to be doing the trick. Any ideas of where and how this water is getting in? And any good solutions?

Because of this the underside of my trunk mat gets a little moist and there is moisture sometimes on the spare tire. When water forms there is no indication that water is coming from anywhere else besides the plug.

I've attached a photo which gives a little bit better detail.

Thanks!

Hi, It is my understanding that the post cat O2 sensors seldom go bad, I would leave those alone unless you got a code for them. Them when you get a more qualified Mechanic get them replaced, you do not want to short any computer circuits. Their only job is to notice if the cat convertors went bad. CCF

Hey guys i did some quick searching but couldn't find anything..

My car is up in the air right now, and I'm just looking for a quick answer..

The stock wires for the post-cat O2 sensors are Blue, white, black, black

The wires on the new Walker Universal sensors are Grey, black, white white

What do I connect to what???

Look in the old posts about the solenoid and you shall find a picture. It is located in the area of the rack that has an electric plug. There is also a screen in the PS PUMP reservoir not the pump itself, that is at the bottom of were you fill your pump fluiid. CCF

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/gallery/LS/DSCF0017 this is the solenoid and the two wires it has on top

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/gallery/LS/DSCF0018

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/gallery/LS/DSCF0002

A number of people on this forum have commented about a "solenoid filter" on the rack/pinion assembly of a '95 LS400. Does anyone have some info or a picture of it's location? I can't find it and neither can my mechanic. Can anyone help on this situation? I have now had two pumps installed along with new high pressure lines, and still are having problems like whining and foaming. It has to be fixed, but mechanic now says it needs a rack ($1200). HELP!

My 98 has 130,000, took it to the dealer they check them and said they were good still with all the bad roads in Puerto Rico so yours should be brand new for the higher better quality roads of most of the US. Check the inner ourter tie rods those tend to go earlier, and the lower ball joint of the passerger side.

CCF

hello, should struts be replaced after 50-60000 miles or when the ride gets bad? my 04 es has 62000 miles, still rides good, steers good, etc. great car.

thanks.

tim

Clean that idle control valve and clean your Throtle body, replace your fuel filter if you have not done it in years and put some gas dryer in your gas tank. I believe also that you need to clean your K & N air filter, if all of this fails you need to take it to the best mechanic you can find. Do not worry about the trac lights if you fix the problem in a mater of days they will go away on their own. CCF

hmm. that may be a possibility. here is the current situation though in regards to this. I ordered a second MAF from evil-bay hoping it would work better. which it has! the check engine lights went completely off and haven't returned. however...the stumbling occurs every now and then after it goes a while without fuel injector cleaner. it must be Techron fuel cleaner as well because if its not, the stumbling won't go away. however after a dose of fuel cleaner, it runs like its brand new. then after the cleaner burns off as in a tank of gas, it stumbles again. weird i know. so for months now i've just been adding techron and enjoying perfect driving until it stumbles again.

also, i can tell when its time to add more fuel cleaner because it runs VERY RICH. you can feeel the engine bogging down when accelerating. its obvious that there is way too much fuel being dumped into the engine just by how it boggs down. so after a dosage of fuel system cleaner all is perfect for 2 weeks.

Hi: I would not switch to sync due to the possibility of having problems with the oil seals of the engine, some smoke issues/leaks due to the later. A high mileage oil or a sync blend which uses both types of oil could be a good compromise.

The sync oil tends to break down seals due to the high cleaning agents and better flow properties, I seen this all the time in the Aircraft engines, they only used sync on them. In a Lex you could have switched until like 70,000 to 80,000 miles, but at this time the engine is in a very high mileage and you want to keep all variables as stable as possible unless you want to spend money then you could change and repair whatever goes!

CCF

Should I switch to high mileage oil? 1997 LS with 162,000 miles. I have always used regular oil changed every 5k or so. The high mileage oil sounds good, since I think it is too late to switch to synthetic.

In any case, thoughts and opinions are plentiful (thankfully) on this forum. I would like to hear some on the high mileage oil issue. Thank you in advance.