jhauck

Posts on the "ES300" site suggest that you should ONLY use toyota/lexus anti-freeze or Dexcool. They say "you'll damage the cooling system using Prestone etc", even if properly flushed. Anyone have any experience with this. I find it hard to believe. Any input is appreciated. Jeff Hauck Gresham, OR.

OK. Problem averted. Couldn't get it off my mind. Everytime I went into my garage, I had to slip under the car and look at it......worrying more and more all the time. Finally did something I've done on aircraft with suspected surface cracks. Took some real fine grit sandpaper and rubbed across the suspected crack removing only a minute amount of material. Was relieved to see that the crack "disappeared" where I had rubbed the sandpaper and sprayed an aerosol cleaner into the area. I noticed other areas on the bottom of the block that looked similar and finally came to the conclusion that these are casting marks of some type, where the aluminum has raised surface lines almost appearing to be cracks depending on the angle of light. They are not really into the metal like a crack would be, but raised slightly above the metal in a very straight line. Would have found it hard to believe that I had a cracked block on a 6 year old Lexus that seemed so well maintained. It's 11:00 P.M. and I can finally go to bed and sleep now that I can get this off my mind. Thanks to all for the input, it's great to be a part of the "Lexus Community". Jeff Hauck Gresham, Oregon :magic: :magic:

Thanks for the input. I'm just hoping it's a "surface crack" and doesn't extend all the way through. There is absolutely no evidence of any leakage whatsoever, and based on where it's located it seems like there'd be something. I know the crack didn't just "all of the sudden happen", so I'm crossing my fingers that it looks worse than it really is.

I'm no "Lexus Specialist", but it's definitely part of the block, maybe my pictures are a little deceiving. The crack extends about 2-3 inches, from part of the forward "mount webbing" all the way to the oil pan mounting flange. I was underneath just doing a "visual" of everything for no real reason other than being inquisitive. I've got a pretty good eye for stuff like this (like I said I've been a aircraft mechanic for 22 years). Shining a flashlight from one angle, makes it look more like a manufacturing defect (like a seam or something), but from another angle it looks like a crack (that's why I can't be sure and am curious if the same markings are on other engines of this type). Thanks, jeff hauck Gresham, OR

Please help before I give myself an ulcer. Recently purchased a 1997 ES300 w/88k miles. Was underneath vehicle today and noticed what looked like a possible crack at the bottom of the engine block. Having been a aircraft mechanic for 22 years, I'm well aware that some manufacturing defects and/or seams sometime look like cracks but are not (unfortunately the reverse is sometimes true also). The potential crack (or defect) is under the forward portion of the engine block directly between the oil pan and exhaust pipe when viewed from underneath, a couple of inches from the left forward corner of the oil pan if looking forward. There is no evidence of oil or coolant leakage. Please, somebody view the image and see if this is common to the 1997 ES300 V-6. To properly orient, if you slid under the front bumper into a position to view directly between the forward exhaust pipe (on one side) where it starts going straight back, and the oil pan (on the other side), the portion of the engine block at this point is where I found the crack. Any help is greatly appreciated. Hope I'm not too "wordy" in my explanation, just didn't know how else to explain exact location. Jeff Hauck Gresham, Oregon

Thanks for the good info, it helps. I too was surprised by the dual electrodes, which is why I wondered if they were original or not. I figured they looked awfully good to have 90k miles on them. Also appreciate the good info on the thread about red/green coolant and dexcool. I had just drained and flushed my cooling system and installed standard prestone (green). I don't believe doing so will cause any problems with my cooling system as long as properly flushed, but now I do wish I went with the dexcool as it sounds superior. Jeff

I was surprised to see the thread stating "cannot take an ethelyne glycol based coolant as it will swell and burst your seal". My owners manual for my 1997 Lexus ES300 states specifically to "use Ethylene-glycol coolant". Only warning it states is to "not use alcohol type". I hate to differ, but I'm sure any "name brand" ethelyne glycol anti-freeze is entirely compatible as long as it's properly flushed (as you guys stated), whether it's red or green.

Recently bought a 1997 ES300. It appears very well maintained with just under 90,000 miles. Going through the routine maintenance items to ensure it's up to date. Pulled the spark plugs and they appear in pretty good shape. They are Denso PK20TR11 plugs with dual side electrodes. If there original, 90k is probably plenty and I'll replace them. They look pretty good though. Is there a possibility these have been replaced or are Denso a common aftermarket plug manufacturer (never heard of them out here in the pacific northwest. Any help is greatly appreciated. Jeff Hauck Gresham, Oregon

Had my 1997 ES300 for a very short time. Read somewhere that if I disconnect the battery for replacement or other reasons I will need to re-enter the "authentication code" in the stereo for it to work (anti-theft feature). I have no documentation giving me this code. Is it possible to bring up the code on the stereo while it's still working, so if I ever disconnect or replace the battery, I'll have the code? Any help is greatly appreciated. Jeff