bigg

That sub was designed to run free-air. Building an enclosure might actually make it worse, and you dont have the peramiters to make the proper size enclosure either. In other words you'll probably need to change the sub too. Try just getting a better sub instead, and forgo the box. Soundstream makes the Exact 8" (exw-8) or you can go with the 10" (exw-10) with some minor modification. These subs are great and work free-air as well. Just remember, SEAL BETWEEN THE TRUNK AND THE CABIN. Use dynamat as a membrane over the rear deck. Cover all the seams and holes. Then get some real power behind the sub, I don't think the factory power is adequate. If you really have the skill you might be able to get the 12 installed. I have a 96 LS and I have the exact 12 in their, and it sounds awesome.

I've installed free-air subs in the Lexuses before and they sound awesome, usually better than putting huge boxes in the trunk. The problem is people don't know what they are doing, and most companies make low end free-air subs that suck, rather than high end ones. We actually did a lot of replacing back yard/Best Buy installed boom boxes with free-air setup at the shop I worked at. I recommend the SoundStream Exact subs for free air, because they are one of the best subs on the market, and they happen to work free-air as well. They are made for sound quality, but will handle a good amount of power. Free-air setups are great because they take up almost no trunk space, add little weight to the car, and play very linearly. But most installers don't take the time to do it right. Think of the trunk as your box, make sure to minimize the excess leaks, especially the ones between the cabin and the trunk. Use dynamat, or some other brand's product, over the entire rear deck, and also on the underside over the seam between your wooden baffle and the rear deck, as a membrane to seal the air leaks. DO NOT CUT OUT EVERY SINGLE HOLE IN THE SHEET METAL OUT OF THE DYNAMAT, THIS DEFEATS THE PURPOSE, ONLY CUT WHAT IS NECESSARY. If your installer does this, take it as a sign that he has no clue. This goes for where ever you use Dynamat/sound-deadening throughout the car.

I recommend the SoundStream Exact subs. They handle globs of power, will work very well free-air, and are overall the best sub for the money. They old exacts are fine, the new ones are better. I don't know your car to well, but the exact 10" should fit with a simple square wooden baffle board, but the 12" might be a stretch because of the huge magnet and the cars gas tank. While, kicker and other companies make free-air subs as part of their entry level lines, the Exact is actually a high-end subs. The trick to a good free-air set up is to think of the trunk as you box, and act accordingly. Make sure their are as little leaks as possible, especially between the trunk and the inside of the car (the air behind the sub and in front). This is in reply to whether they still make "free-air" subs: The trick to knowing which sub works free air is in understanding the parameters. Some (very few) will actually work free air even though they do not say so specifically. This is because subs typically handle less power free air, and companies do not want to take on the liability, so they don't recommend it. They realize that most people have no clue how power-handling in a speaker really works. A good installer will know which subs will work. generally you want to cut back on the power to only 70% of the woofers power rating, will using it free air. To estimate the results using a speaker box program, select a sealed box design, and enter the size of your trunk as the volume of the box, which is really what "free-air" is. a good program will then tell you the ACTUAL power rating of the sub in your setup. Sorry for taking up so much space, but I hope it was useful.