Wicked_Lex

It sounds about right. When I had the 60K done for my ES300 by Lexus (something I won't do again) it cost around $1000. Generally, on most work you can probably save 25-40% of what the delearship charges if you shop around.

I have heard that this is a common problem with the GS and unfortunately I don't think it is something as simple as replacing a fuse. Check the threads, there should be some posts out there.

As you have heard from some of the other guys, I would either sell the pony car or ask more for the Lex. Lexus is one of the most maintenance free cars there is. You may get a lot of HP bang for the buck with the Stang, but Fords fall apart and depreciate like a falling rock.

For some reason there can be a huge discrepancy in the cost of something common like struts. When I had my ES300, Lexus wanted about $1200 for parts and labor and another $100 for a damned alignment! I found someone to do parts, labor, alignment, taxes out- the-door for about $750. I didn’t even call Lexus when my GS needed struts. I got a better grade than OEM strut installed, alignment, out-the-door for less than $800. Do these rip-off dealerships/repair shops think people are stupid? Or, is it because we have the good taste to drive Lexus, money must be no object for us?

2000 GS400 @125K and it purrs like a kitten. Recently I decided to keep it another 3-4 years or until it has 200K which ever comes first.

I have a 400 with the SRT intake. I searched the C.A.R.B website and could not find it in the certified aftermarket products. Swift hasn't had it certified have they? I don't remember getting an EO sticker when I bought it last year. Thanks guys

If your going to the Lexus Dealership (don't unless you must!) $1399 is probably about right. It cost me over $1000 a few years ago to get my ES300 60K. Shop around, you can probably find someone to do it for about half the quoted price. TM8000 - I think the 90K is so much more expensive because of timing belt replacement. Lexus wanted about $700 just for that alone! I found someone to do it for less than $400

Sorry if anything related has already be posted, but I could'nt find anything specific in the threads. I have a 2000 GS400 with 120K miles. Everything is stock accept for Magnaflow mufflers and SRT intake. I have been experiencing a problem recently when I let up on the gas to approach a stop. Sometimes the engine light comes on and when it does it is like the accelerator goes dead. No matter what force is applied the engine just idles. I shut off the engine, remove positive baterry cable to reset the computer, the engine light goes off and everthing is fine - for awhile. It seems like it happens more often after I have been driving on the highway for awhile and then pull off and drive around town. Has anyone else experience this problem? Is it related to the SRT piggyback? The computer? Fuel pump? Thanks

I have the SRT intake/ECU on my GS400 along with Magnaflow mufflers. Sounds and runs great. I here a lot of talk about guys spending a thousand dollars or more on an exhaust system to gain a few horsepower. The guy at Marco Muffler told me that the GS exhaust was pretty efficient and that the biggest bottleneck was in the muffler. So for about $300 out the door I got new mufflers and tips and had plenty of money for the SRT intake. :)

ZedEx, the site is at www.lextreme.com/allgo.html, Just scroll down and you'll see the TC

I saw that Lextreme has rebuilt high stall TCs on their website for $179 with exchange of OEM TC. This sounds too good to be true when most of the other TCs that I have seen are selling for $700- $1000. have any of you guys installed one of these? Does anyone know the labor cost of replacing a TC? Thanks

Thanks guys, I'm going with a Bilstein Sport shock and if I still have too much roll I'll look into sway bars.

When you say 20 MPG are you talking city driving, highway, or combined? I have a GS400 and I get about 25 on the highway and 16-17 around town, unless I'm puting my foot into it, which happens quite often :) the 300 should get better mileage but not a lot more, maybe 2-3 MPG better. Unless the car hasn't been tuned lately, the most critical factor determining MPG is the way someone drives. Fast starts/stops and driving in power mode burns more gas. If you use a synthetic oil, keep pressure in tires around 35 LB, and coast more you should get better mileage.

There are probably some threads about this, but most of what I have seen regarding suspension is about coil-overs and L-tuned S/S for guys who want lowering. I need new shocks and I want to keep the stock spring but reduce the roll when cornering. What would be a better shock than OEM Lexus and what is the approximate cost for 4 shocks? Thanks guys

According to NADA it is values as follows: Average Trade-In Average Retail Base Price $13,225 $15,950 Mileage 43,000 miles $3,375 $3,375 TOTAL PRICE $16,600 $19,325 It is worth quite a bit more because of low mileage

By VSC, if you are referring to Vehicle Skid Control the answer is 'yes', you can turn it off. On the 2000 GS it is a switch located on the console.

I just installed mine today, unfortunately I live on the West coast not the East. I don't do a lot of work on cars but this is pretty much a DIY job, especially installation of the air intake part. All it takes is a 10MM socket and a screw driver for the clamps. I called a shop and they wanted FIVE HOURS of labor to do something they should have been able to do in much less time. I decided to do it myself and save almost $400 and it didn’t take me as long as the shop said it would take them. Installing the piggyback ECU is a bit trickier but if you, or someone you know, can solder it pretty easy. I went to Radio Shack and bought a tool for wire stripping and some electrical tape for about ten bucks. A soldering iron with flux and solder can be bought for about twenty bucks. If you decide to do it yourself, or have one of your buddies help you, make sure you disconnect the negative battery cable first and don’t drive the car after you get the intake installed without installing the piggyback ECU because the fuel mixture will be wrong and the engine could detonate. Just find the right wires, strip off about an inch of insulation on each one, wrap the wire from the Swift ECU around the factory wire, flux it, and solder it. The factory sensor 1 wire is the only one that needs to be cut. Solder the green Swift wire(output) to the factory wire going into the ECU and the orange wire (input) to the other half of the wire. After soldering, wrap all exposed wires with electrical tape, replace your ECU cover, hook up your negative battery cable and you should be good to go.

I've heard that the underweighted pulley mod (smaller pulley and new serpentine belt) doesn't cost much and yields a few HP in the higher RPM range. However, most are of the opinion that it isn't worth it because the side effect is an under performing electrical and cooling system.

Sway bars are great but so is just increasing the tire pressures never mind you can save alot of gas. When I last bought tires I got a wider/lower profile than stock, 245/55 I think, and keep them inflated to 35-36 LBs which helps some. I don't want to go much over that because there are some rough streets where I live. Since I have 100K on the car and it is an ex-leased vehicle it probably has the original struts/shocks. How long are OEM struts good for? A new after market strut would firm up some of the roll wouldn't it?

I'd call some salvage yards or see if Ebay has anything.

Thanks guys. That is what I thought. Its probably one of many good synthetic products but because of the hype its more expensive.

Could be loose tranny or differential mounts or some other problem with the drive train. Have someone put it up on a lift and inspect the drive train.

Pick up a copy of Import Tuner, they have dozens if not hundreds of wheels advertised.

The stock GS suspension has a bit too much roll for me. I would like to firm up the suspension so that the car corners better but not to the point where the ride becomes uncomfortable. I have heard people talk about sway bars and strut tower bars. Which is best to use? What are the advantages/disadvantages of one over the other? Thanks