ricfla

There are problems with aftermarket rebuilds. First: they use cheap regulators that don't last. Second: they use cheap bearings or sometimes don't replace them at all. The smartest thing to do is get on the internet and look up Denso's web page. They sell a factory rebuilt for about $200. It's the only way to go for reliability.

I just had my cluster repaired fromAdvanced Auto Electronics. You may want to call them and see what they say. Their located in Virginia. Tel: (866)427-1112 ask for Carey. He knows this stuff better than anyone.

Sorry guy but the speed sensor is located in the rear of the transmission. IT does not use the ABS sensor for the speedometer. I just exchanged a 1999 SC400 3.266 differential with my 1992 SC400 3.90 differential and the speedometer is reading about 10 mph slower at 70 mph. I have ordered a ratio adapter from a Virginia based company that repairs dash clusters. This will correct the speedometer calibration.

I buy most of my parts through car-part.com. This will take you to a lot of salvage yards in the country. If you call one of them regarding a specific part they may be able to give you the information you need. You have to do a part search in order to locate a yard that has one in stock.

I had the same problem with my 92 SC400 and it was the drive shafts cusing the thump. It seems that Toyota saved a lot of money by not using U-joints to mate these guys to the transmission and differential. They used fiber bushings instead. Now there's a smart design for you. After a thousand dollars the noise went away. You may want to have them checked for wear and play. Mine were about to fall out. Also they replace one of the shaft mounts as well. I just love the dealer! They slay my wallet.

Mike, I've tried looking for these at all junk yards for my 92 SC400 with no success. The ones that they did have were all cracked up as they usually do with aging. I was forced to pay the pricce and buy them new from the dealer. Good luck.

I also have an 1992 SC400 with a similar problem except mine is intermittent. According to my factory service manual the missing tilt & telescoping missing ECU is located somewhere near the steering column under the dasboard. If you remove the plastic cover under the stearing column you will more than likely see two connectors that are hanging loose. They are designated T10&T11 on the schematic. If you don't see them then it's possible that the ECU is still there and hooked up but may be defective. If the ECU module is there you may want a qualified repair person to troubleshoot it first. There is one motor used for the tilt motor and the ECU merely reverses polarity for up and down. This has to be confirmed before you purchase an ECU modular. It's just possible that the motor is bad itself.

I had this problem which was also causing my radio to cut out as well. It's just possible that you have the same problem.Mine was water under the back seat. Under then back seat bottom there are 2 wells that filled up with water when it rained and it stayed there for a long time. I discovered it while replacing my fuel pump. Pick up your rear bottom seat and investigate. I traced the water leak to a tear in the door gasket seal near the top of the door. I didn't want to replace the expensive door seal gasket so I cut a drain hole for the water in the gasket at the bottom near the door opening. This alowed the water to drain at the bottom and out the lower door area. It never happened again.

James is right. But there are other things to concider. mThere are two vent hoses that are sS shaped that have dust filters in them. These filter crack and split with aging as mine did. Still after replacing the hoses with std rubber and a piece of steel wool stuffed inside of it to act asa dust filter they still fogged up. I then had to take them off the car and water test them under a faucet to find the water leak. It was at the seal at the top of the assy. I used GE silicon sealer that you can buy in any hardware stoor. So far so good.

I ecently had my tranmission overhauled by a highly reccomended rebuilder and I noticed that at 70 MPH it appears to be turning 2500 RPM's. Correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't the engine RPM's normally decrease to about 2200 RPMs as it shifts into final overdrive. Someone in the transmission business told me that the torque converter was not rebuilt correctly. My SC400 has the 3.90 differential in it. I don't know how to calculte RPM's including the std size tires and the transmission final gear ratio of .75 to 1. Is there anyone out there that has calculated this or know what the RPM's of their SC400 turns at 70 MPH?

I just finished fixing my left headlight assy on my SC400. The culprit on my light assy was the bottom curved drain hose tube was too loose. For some reason the mfg. made them too small and wouldn't stop water flow from the outside of the rubber where it connects to the headlight assy. And my light assy is only a year old. I simply used silicon sealer on it. You have to remove the headlight assy in order to fix it. Taking it off of the car with althe bulb assy's installed gave me a chance to pour water over it from the kitchen spray hose and find the leak. First I had to remove all of the bulb assy's and use a hair dryer untill the the inside was dry. I then used the kitchen spray hose under very low drizzle from one corner of the light assy to the other corner while looking through the clear plastic untill I saw what area the water was leaking from. That should help you out. Taking the headlight assy out of the car is no big deal. You need to jack up that side of the car to gain access to the fender well panel and remove as many screws as needed to pull the panel back enough to gain access to the two mounting nuts located inside the fender well. Then remove the mounting nut from under the hood, disconnect the buld connectors and wiggle the light assy out of the body. Good luck. This worked for me. Ric :)