jainla

The left rear door speaker is the OEM speaker for the phone and Lexus Link system. The junction point in the trunk contains the wiring for that speaker.

For the OEM system there is a relay that disconnects the speaker from the amp and connects it to the amp inside the Telephone ECU (or the LL ECU).

It's possible that the aftermarket installer either tapped the wiring in the door or ran wiring back to the trunk to access that junction point. Where was the ECU located? If you plug it back in does the sound in the left rear speaker come back?

I think I might have a wiring diagram somewhere. I know there is a mute wire on the back of the tape/CD player harness, you might have to follow the wires out of the Siemens ECU and see where they go. Can you post some photos?

Hi Jainla,

Thank you for your reply.

It's a German LS430; from what I read so far, there seem to be some differences.

First of all, it does not have Lexus Link. Also, there was no option to get a factory fitted phone here.

The Siemens phone is aftermarket and I have removed the "brain" of the system. I am not sure, if there is still a relay in the car (I haven't found it), which might trigger the mute wire.

If I start the car, I can hear radio/CD (and probably tape) sound just fine for a couple of seconds, before it gets muted. Do you have a wiring diagramm or can at least tell me which pins connect to the mute wire? Honestly, I have a hard time to follow all the cables and I am not sure which cables from the phone go to the radio.

I have also noticed that one of the speakers seems to be dead (the left speaker on the back). I only have some seconds of sound, when I start the car, but this was enough to evaluate if the speakers are functional by adjusting the balance/fading of the radio.

Could it be possible that this speaker causes all the trouble?

Best,

Alex

Siemens? It sounds like it may be an aftermarket install. Was this car sold in the USA?

When you removed the module what did you remove exactly? The cradle that holds the phone? Or the brain that runs the system? Also do you know if the car has the old Lexus Link system installed? If you see buttons on the sunglass holder and they light up at night, it's still connected.

OEM manufacturer for the HF system in '01/02 was Denso with a Qualcomm phone. For one year, '03 a Nokia 6310 phone was fitted onto the Denso system via a Junction box. Then in '04 the system went Bluetooth only.

The OEM phone module is in the trunk, on the left side under the floor. If you see a box there under the panel to the left of the tire well then you may have the OEM system. The power/speaker/relay connector is on the right side, also under the floor; the wiring runs under the trim across the back of the trunk and then behind the GPS and Radio system.

Attached is a photo showing the attach point (it's the connector marked with the X). The car shown has the Lexus Link system installed. This is the power/audio/mute point for both the phone and LL system (they are connected in serial). Try disconnecting whatever is connected to this (one half of the connector should be fixed to the car, that's the one you should unplug) and see if this solves your problem.

If you have an aftermarket system then it might be harder to find the mute point. The connectors on the back of the cd/radio have 2 wires marked as mute wires, one seems to come from the phone and one seems to go to the amplifier.

Does the CD/Tape player work at all? Or is it all dead? I would pull the head unit and see if anything appears to be attached to the harness back there.

Hi Guys,

I have a 2001 LS430 whose audio system has some issues.

I have the ML audio system and an old handsfree telephone option from Siemens.

First, there was some erratic noise even if the radio/cd was switched off. This changed a few days ago: When I start the car, I can hear sound for a few seconds and the the sound completely switches off.

What I have done so far:

- My amp was defective last year and I have sent it to the repair shop which did the repair (I had a 1 year warrany on their work). I believe they are very professional (actually, they are specialised on Lexus amps). They verified that the amp is working fine.

- I removed the handsfree telephone module. I have found the relay, yet, for the mute wire.

- When I got the amp back, I disconnected one of the 3 wire harnesses just to figure out if I can trace back where the erratic noise comes from (navigation, radio?). I believe it comes from the radio. Since I did this, the error changed (car starts -> a few seconds sound -> silence).

- I bought a new radio/cd and installed it. The error did not change.

Questions:

- Could I have damaged something by disconnecting the wire harnesses?

- How can I get into the diagnostic menu? I am not sure what is meant by "info switch". I have a "Option" switch and when I click on it, I have a "Information" button on the touch screen. Is this meant by "Info switch"?

- How can I locate the mute wire? Where does it go (amp/radio) and which pins are used?

Thank you for your help

Alex

If you really want to you can use the roof antenna with an external linkup for your cellular phone. On non Lexus Link models in the US that had the phone installed the antenna was patched into it (as opposed to the LL models which had an additional cellular antenna installed on the rear glass).

There is a coax run under the center console that goes into the trunk where you can then patch it into the roof antenna. The coax connector on the center console side is like the one on the back of your TV, however you'd have to find a holster that has an antenna linkup for your phone.

Not sure if you can use it for other uses (CB, etc) but the wiring is there.

Isn't it nice to get what you want? Congrats on the latest addition.

How will you decide which one goes out when? Do they have a schedule? Will the other ones get jealous?

There was a recall/TSB for this on the early LS430s. I can't recall if it was an adjustment or replacement; if you call a dealer they might be able to provide more information.

Check the center mount stoplight (on top of the parcel shelf).

TAIL LIGHT WARNING LIGHT CAME ON . I CHANGE THE BULBS THE WARNING LIGHT WENT OUT BUT THE LIGHTS STILL DIDN'T COME ON . SO I CHECK THE FUSE IT WAS GOOD BUT I CHANGE IT ANY WAY BUT LIGHTS STILL DIDN'T COME ON . ANYONE HAD THIS PROBLEM BEFORE PLEASE HELP ?

68db sounds about right for the LS.

There are a lot of other factors than just level reading. I find the road thumps and wind seem a little more prominent in the LS than other cars; but I suspect it's because the car itself (engine, transmission) are so quiet.

I know some people clean and reinstall the weatherstripping on top of the window to reduce wind noise; and also your tire choice, the condition of the road, the ambient temperature all are factors as to how loud the car will sound. Also as things get older the rubber bushings and such get stiffer; so they transmit more noise and vibration.

I have an app for android that test's db's. My car claims to be at 68 db's at 60mph....i thought it's suppose to be 58 or something like that?? I heard windnoise around the front windshield and side windows but that is expected right? i have all the bottom floor plugs in.

I saw an add for a Lexus Specific recycler here in CA: Valley Lexus Recyclers 8831 San Fernando Road CA 91352-1408 (818) 768-2525. Don't have any firsthand experience with them yet but they are the first Lexus specific place I've seen.

I'm sure there are a couple LS430s here and there with sludge problems. Statistically every design can't be perfect; but with the UZ engine family in production for almost 20 years across half a dozen product lines I think if the problem were due to a specific design flaw (like the 3.0L V6 seemed to be) we would have heard about it by now. Also most people who did have sludge problems with the V6 saw it earlier, between 30k and 60k miles.

There were changes to the 3UZ version of this engine; specifically with regards to meeting the new ULEV standards; which typically dictate hotter combustion temperatures; who knows if this makes the engine more prone to sludge or not.

However this is the second time we've seen this problem so I'm still curious:

1) did this problem manifest itself suddenly (within 5k miles or so); this might point to the failure of another component (the cooling system, a gasket leak somewhere, a faulty temperature sensor). Even if the oil wasn't changed at all for the first 30k miles I think there would be some sign of sludge before this (miscolored oil, debris in the filter and or waste oil, hotter operating temperatures due to blocked oil passages). I'm surprised your mechanic didn't mention the yuck under the valve covers when he replaced the gaskets.

2) which maintenance schedule was followed; I know Lexus has one for 'Normal' driving and one for more severe environments. Most dealers and shops in LA tend to err on the side of caution; and recommend more frequent oil changes (which is why these newer Mercedes with the 'automatic' oil change notification scare me). Perhaps the 7500 mile interval is really too long in this case?

3) did the car have to endure cold winters? short trips where the engine didn't heat up completely?

The fact that Toyota is not recalling this engine means that this problem is more likely related to specific operating and maintenance conditions.

Any information you can provide us will be helpful so the rest of us can know what to look for.

Regardless it might be worth taking this matter up with Lexus Corporate; who knows they might take care of you.

Do you have oil change records for the first 30,000 miles before you owned it?

1st thing I thought too... Not that we are doubting you...

Oh my god. My eyes. My EYES!!

Did Lexus produce a LS 400 Pebble Beach edition ? I know Lexus produced a SC430 PB.

The only official "special" LS400 models for the U.S. market I'm aware of were the 1994 "5th Anniversary Edition", the 1997 "COACH® Edition", and the 2000 "Platinum Series". There were sometimes special LS400 models sold in other markets such as the 2000 LS400 "Millennium Edition" for Canada which was essentially the same as the U.S. Platinum Series except without the emblems on the front fenders and the American Express credit card tie-in.

There are, of course. those cheesy, vinyl top "Palm Beach Edition" Lexus cars from a Lexus dealer in Florida -- I thought I had a photo of one of his LS400 aberrations but these other two will have to do.

You might want to check out the ride height sensors; I think there is one for the rear axle and one for the front. They are notorious for giving up the ghost especially if you live in a climate that has any kind of inclement weather. This is a thread for an LS430 but I think the general design is similar:

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=37835&st=0&p=379525&hl=+ride%20+height%20+sensor&fromsearch=1entry379525

No the engine will not grenade if you use regular gas; but it will burn more fuel. The car will adjust automatically to whatever grade you put in it; although lower octane will yield less power and slightly poorer mileage. Also the throttle response won't be as crisp; but try it yourself and see if you think the compromise is acceptable.

Here in CA premium is about 20 cents a gallon more than regular; after spending ~$60 to fill up the car another $5 seems inconsequential.

The biggest jump in FE I got was when I changed the spark plugs and my mechanic cleaned out the throttle body. My average MPG went from 18 MPG to 20+. Also avoid heavy traffic, have your tires rotated and balanced, keep an alignment etc etc.

Welcome to the club!

I have not seen a good write up on this I figured I would share.

I've been witness to the slow death of one of my Low Beam HID bulbs. I called the Lexus Dealer who quoted me ~$200 for a new HID bulb plus labor to install it. After I picked my jaw up off the floor I asked if this was for the pair or each. They said each. I said thanks and investigated other options.

The OEM bulbs seem to be made by Sylvania (at least mine were) and after some research I located an OEM equivalent by Phillips on eBay. I paid ~$90 with shipping FOR THE PAIR. Then I actually had to put them in.

Note: some bulb problems are caused by the ballast going bad; mine appear to be just the bulb. The bulb would stay on, then change color (going orange) then almost completely go out. It used to last a couple minutes; by the end it was a sad dim ember.

Contrary to what I've read on this and other forums you DO NOT have to remove the headlight assembly. You do however have to remove a cover and a fusebox and be comfortable working in confined spaces that you can't see.

You will need:

• a phillips screwdriver
  
• a 10mm socket wrench
  
• 2 D2R bulbs of your choice
  
• about 30 min of your time.
  

These are HID bulbs so it is possible that there will be some residual voltage left in the system. I recommend doing this after the car has sat overnight, or wear gloves and long sleeves to help insulate yourself. Also don't stand on a metal grid or a puddle of water. And of course DO NOT TOUCH the glass surface with your hand; the oils on it will cause the glass to heat unevenly, crack and eventually melt or explode.

I didn't really take photos while I was doing it because the back of the light assembly is basically invisible; but these will help you when taking apart the car. It's far easier than it looks.

1. Remove the cover on the passengers side; there are 4 clips; two are the standard Lexus center pop-up clips, just pry the center out and the clip should come off. The two on the back both have Phillips style centers; one screws out like the pop up clips, one is just a cap that sits on top of another bolt underneath it; it will stay with the cover.
   
   
2. Remove the fusebox on the drivers side; this is a standard 10mm bolt, and then there are two metal clips that pop open on the back. You can lift this up and twist it so it sits on top of the other boxes and covers and gives you access to the back of the assembly.
   
   
3. Remove the cover- each LB bulb has a 3 inch round cover directly behind that covers the whole business; reach behind the assembly and twist this; it will unlock and you can pull it out.
   
4. Unlock the connector from the back of the bulb; it twists off to unlock. Set aside (try not to touch the inner bits).
   
5. Remove the retaining clips - each light has a U-shaped clip that pivots from the bottom and has little loops on the top. These are HARD to remove; particularly because you can't really see them. Feel around and you'll find some other parts of the clip to pull on and open them up. (I found this actually was the hardest part!).
   
6. Replace the bulb -- each bulb has a ringed collar with 2 notches in it so it really only fits in there one way. Put the replacement bulb in gently and rotate it until it seats; you'll see a little of it in the headlight behind the chrome cap and you'll be able to confirm it's straight.
   

Put the car back together, replacing the retaining clips and covers. Make sure the retaining clips and wiring connectors are sound; the bulb should be solidly in there. The pop-out clips need to be in the extended position (not the closed position) for them to fit back into the holes.

Cost of parts: ~$90

Cost of labor: ~30min of my sunday.

2 new headlight bulbs that didn't cost a fortune: priceless.

I think there is some kind of gasket or pad surrounding the bezel; if it dries out it will squeek. Does it happen more in dry weather?

You could try removing the whole assembly and cleaning/lubricating the gaskets it but it's a rather involved process; you have to remove all the wood trim bits below; the CD player, the stereo, and the two climate control buttons to get to the bolts holding it in (10mm bolts btw). I think someone else on the forum had a similar problem and was able to solve it; a search might turn up that post.

It looks lovely; if the price is good grab it.

My car had about 65k on it when I bought it and I asked the guys at Lexus of Riverside (who did the PPI) about the air suspension, and they told me that typically on the later LS400/and LS430 cars the shocks are typically good for 150k; up from 100k on the earlier cars. This car has been in a temperate climate that's not too dry so the rubber will probably be in pretty good shape. In the early years 30% of LS430s were sold with the UL package so if that generation of air shocks were problematic we'd probably have heard about it by now.

YMMV but they are FAR better than the early MB W210 shocks, which had a bad controller and occasionally the car would drop to the ground or jack itself up and trash the shocks.

The UL package has a lot of toys, and if they do break they are expensive to repair, but my experience has been they are fairly reliable. Toyota has offered these options on the JDM Celsiors for years (the first Celsior had optional reclining rear seats) so they are proven designs. The only electrical thing that has died on my car was the driver's door lock actuator, which is a standard part.

A family friend had that same color combination when the LS430 came out and the grey wood is striking; it looks almost like marble up close. Enjoy it!

Carson Toyota wants $600+ for a new actuator. Really? for a $10 motor that died?

I'm going to try to replace the motor; some people here have actually ordered the eBay motors and then scavenged them for parts. I'll post photos if I'm successful. Thanks for the tip!

"I recently experienced my first real electrical failure of any kind: the driver's door lock actuator died."

Mine did too... but we accidentally fixed it. remove it from the car, open it up and clean the two copper contacts and (hopefully)that fixed mine. with the motor out we tested it direct on the battery and it worked perfect, noticed the blackened contacts, cleaned them and it is still working... good luck

I tend to smile every time I see "'01 LS430 '81 MB 240D (Still truckin'!)" as your car model. I drove a '79 240D from new until I stopped the day I test drove and immediately bought an LS400 in early 1990. My Mercedes Diesel was incredibly noisy and slow and I found myself inadvertently wildly exceeding the speed limit during my test drive of the 90 LS and for several weeks after I bought it until I got myself under control.

Do you actually switch back and forth between driving your LS430 and 240D? That would drive me CRAZY! Or is your L.A. traffic so bad you don't notice.

The 240D is something of a lifestyle choice, or maybe an institution. It was (is) literally my first car. It's indestructible. In the 17 years I've had it it's stranded me only once (starter) and been jumped 3 or 4 times (batteries and alternators seem to be consumable).

Having that blistering 67hp teaches you patience. Acceleration is best described as stately.

Going from a car that is woefully underpowered (67hp) to one that is not (290hp) was quite an experience. I do clearly remember after I first got the Lex being on an onramp and accelerating to clear a much slower moving car, and then looking down at the speedo and realized I was doing NINETY as I merged onto the highway. Initially my solution was to try to drive both cars exactly the same; which many of my friends (and fellow drivers) found infuriating.

Still the 240 has a mechanical simplicity that I still find endearing. It's a manual, and the ballet between the clutch and shifter is truly entertaining (and necessary). The windows, door locks etc are all operated by elbow grease. The steering, brakes and sunroof are the only power accessories, and believe it or not the general visibility is much better than the LS. I drive it mostly around Santa Monica and occasionally to the office; it's smaller and easier to park. And I know nobody will mess with it.

Compared to this driving the LS feels piloting the space shuttle; the Nav, the laser cruise makes you think it could go to the moon with no problem. It's far more comfortable (the AC in the Benz died long ago), faster and much quieter. It's definitely the car to slog out LA traffic in.

The Lex keeps me happy; the Benz keeps me honest.

I am so tempted to buy one of those as a hobby car. There are many running around LA that still look great (and some that look awful). I'm pretty sure it will at least be something of a collectible if not a classic.

Now that you mention it, it has been awhile. I joined right after I bought my 1990 LS400 and I still drive the car every day except in the summer since the AC is broken. Still looks good inside and out and still drives perfectly. I have replace the struts (torsion bars), one rear caliper, one upper ball joint. I love this car even though it will be an antique in about 4 years.

Hmm interesting... was it hard to open?

I know people have been successful at replacing the motor; but that actuator I think controls both the ez closer and the door lock. I'm thinking it might be worth the money to just replace both motors and not have to worry about it; I'm guessing the previous owner just killed it unlocking the driver's door over and over.

"I recently experienced my first real electrical failure of any kind: the driver's door lock actuator died."

Mine did too... but we accidentally fixed it. remove it from the car, open it up and clean the two copper contacts and (hopefully)that fixed mine. with the motor out we tested it direct on the battery and it worked perfect, noticed the blackened contacts, cleaned them and it is still working... good luck

I was looking at a calendar today and I realized it's been 5 years and a day since I brought home my LS430 and joined the LOC family.

It's been wonderful. The car has exceeded pretty much every expectation I had when I bought it (and there were a lot). It continues to run admirably; I can't believe it's going to turn 10 next March. Thanks to a clean throttle body, new spark plugs and an alignment I think it runs better than the day I bought it. Gas mileage has gone from 17-18mpg to 20-21 on average.

The feared electrical gremlins and expensive failures connected to the Ultra Luxury package have yet to materialize (knock on wood). It hasn't been entirely trouble free; I've had to replace 2 oxygen sensors, a radiator and some front suspension bushings during the 90k service last year. I recently experienced my first real electrical failure of any kind: the driver's door lock actuator died. But the massaging seats, radar cruise etc continue amaze and delight.

Cosmetically the car still looks almost brand new. There are a couple more stone chips than I remember and a tiny scratch on the front bumper but aside from that the exterior paint still looks fetching. The interior looks identical to the day I bought it.

I'd like to thank everybody on this forum for their knowledge and generosity. It's been great having a wonderful resource like this site to come to when I had questions or concerns.

Here's to many more years (hopefully)!

I used a paperclip. Took all of 30 seconds.

Check engine light was on 2001 LS430 pulled codes found P0135 Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 1

...

6. Clear the codes, and take a ride

if you get the VSC Off light on your dash immediately and the display says Check VSC ( Vehicle Stability Control I believe) it has to do with your code scanner when you read your codes, you'll need to get something to jumper between 2 pins on the obdc connector under the dash the TS and CG pins (see picture courtesy of FYOUNES on another site) dlc.bmp, ignition off, jumper the 2 pins, turn ignition on, don't start, wait until the vsc test comes up in the display, turn ignition off, pull jumper, start car, go for a ride.

Hi very dumb question here but what did you use to jumper "Te" to "CG"? Just a small piece of metal? Thanks!

Not sure about the LS400 but my LS430 sometimes creaks if the sway bar bushings aren't lubricated regularly. Eventually I figure I'll replace it but when it goes in for it's oil change I ask the mechanic to lubricate them and it usually solves the problem; usually only when braking or making tight turns (pulling into a parking space).

Hope that helps.

Hey guys. I tried my best searching on the forums before asking but to no avail i cant pinpoint the problem.I just bought my 1-owner 96 last year which had been kept in tip-top shape.

Now, every time i press on the breaks i can feel & hear this crunching noise coming from my front. It started a couple months ago & seems to be getting louder. I dont hear anything while driving but a soon as i come to a stop,its present.U can also hear it once I let my foot off the breaks.

Searching the forums i thought it maybe its my lower controls arms but now i dont thinks so because wouldnt i hear something while in motion?

I just want to kno what u guys think before i go spending $$ trying to diagnose & fix this.

There seems to be a lot of yuck that collects in the joint between the mounting point and the mirror housing. There are pads there that I've lubricated in the past with Sonus or grease and yes it does seem to get worse when it rains.

Let us know what you find when you pull the mirror off; my mirrors are getting sticky again after our wet winter here.

i would definitely remove the lower switch panel first. The wood trim piece around the shifter actually pokes underneath it a little bit; and the clips in the front are very close to the edge. I'm not sure if it will come off without it.

In my megapdf on taking my car apart to install the parrot there are I think a couple photos of the center console sans the wood trim piece.

After you remove the switch panel you'll probably have to remove the center trim ring around the shifter and then pull upwards on the trim piece. You can grasp it more easily once that lower switch piece is removed then pull from the front.

The cupholder sits in a well along with all the other stuff in there. I found a stack of post-its under mine when i pulled it out (you can remove the cupholder screws with a phillips head screwdriver). What's most likely happening is that something is jamming the mechanism; or preventing the cupholder from retracting fully and letting the lock catch.

Good luck!

I clearly remember this whole thing from Audi in the 1980s. This was before electronic throttles, stability controls, etc. All of those incidents were determined to be driver error and the pedals were redesigned so that operating the car in that manner became less likely.

The good thing here is that Toyota has recognized the problem and is doing a voluntary recall. Many other car makers (Ford, GM) had to lose a court case and have a judge point a gun at their head before they would consent to a recall (exploding Pintos anybody? Rolling over Explorers?). So far that hasn't happened here.

I certainly believe that it's possible that electronic throttles can go haywire; but you have to remember that automotive electronics are generally built to much tougher standards than your garden variety cell phone or computer, and that the software in these ECUs is actually pretty simple and much less complex than your 9 year old copy of Windows or even a cell phone OS. So the possiblity is quite rare. Toyota does have one glaring hole in their logic in that their cars generally don't have a brake interlock function (i.e. if the car senses your foot is on the brake it disregards any signal from the throttle pedal) but they've said going forward this logic will apply in all their cars; and that the current ECUs can be flash programmed to have that feature added in existing cars.

As for a grand cover up I don't buy it. The numbers just don't support it. In the past 10 years they've sold about 20 million cars in the US ALONE. Say half of those have electronic throttles; and we're talking about how many instances of unintended acceleration? At least half of which are probably driver error? I bet just as many cars simultaneously burst into flame or had transmissions explode in that amount of time; no mode of transportation is 100% foolproof. I bet that a much higher percentage of Toyotas were involved in accidents due to driver stupidity than some kind of ECU/throttle fault.

The media has however succeeded in blowing this competely out of proportion in our blogosphere addicted, twitter powered world. C&D has a very nice editorial about the whole thing and proof that it's possible to stop almost any car even if the throttle is pinned here.

Toyota needs to do it's part, they should offer to replace the entire throttle control system and all associated sensors for anybody who complains of this problem just to be safe. They also have to recognize that cars are complex machines and put in safeguards (like the brake interlock) to help reduce the chance of a malfunction, but again no mode of transportation is 100% safe, it's just the way of the world.

Consumers have to do their part as well. They have to SHIFT INTO NEUTRAL or TURN THE CAR OFF. A car running a curb into a building I can understand that a driver can't react in time, but a car running down the 405 freeway at 120 mph? Really? And they had time to call 911? REALLY? Come on.