dahozzman

I had my wheel redone in the wood/leather. You would not believe the upgrade difference it makes to the look of the interior. I highly recommend. But, as stated, you will need to have alternate transportation for about 3-4 weeks unless you can grab a junk yard steering wheel to use in the meantime.

Ok, I just went through a learning curve well worth sharing on this issue. Background, in searching through the forum, one of the common issues is the passenger window switch having faulty operation of the window. In my case, the passenger side switch would roll down the window, but had no effect to roll it back up. At the same time, the passenger window goes up and down no problem when operated by the drivers door switch. So, one would conclude I have a faulty drivers door switch. WRONG!! I did a search and found one post where the dealer advised a SC owner that the wiring indicated the drivers door switch was the culprit. He replaced his driver’s door, and stated everything worked fine then. Despite reading this, I remained skeptical that was the same conclusion in my case. Thinking I had dirty contacts, I took the passenger door window switch apart. Anybody that might want to do this, know you will loose the LED light in the process. The switch comes apart by prying out (at the 4 tabs) the white body from the black case main body. However, the LED bulb is held by a main body while the two power leads are soldered into a circuit board part of the white body. Now way other than to continue to pry up on the white body until the two power leads simply pull out of the circuit board in the white body. Because of the design, there is no way to re-solder the leads back. Thus, why the bulb is lost. My justification was simply I was more interested in a passenger being able to operate the window than maintaining the little green light. Anyway, since I've confirmed the problem isn't the passenger switch, I only memorialize this information for future users of the search engine. What puzzled me is that the passenger switch would work intermittently. So, after putting everything back together I discovered that if I press straight down (NOT ROCK IT) on the drivers door switch that operates the passenger window, I found that I could roll up the passenger window with the passenger door switch. Said differently, while holding up the passenger door switch, the window would only go up by at the same time pressing down on the drivers door passenger window switch. Clearly, the center portion of the rocker contacts within the drivers door switch had developed faulty contact. That the wiring design is such that the "up" power from the passenger door switch flows through the drivers door switch and only then back to the window motor. Very weird design, but that’s what we've got in our SC300's and SC400's. At this point, I took out the driver door switch module. It is held in the bezel by three silver screws. The cover to the circuit board can be removed by !Removed! out 4 brass colored screws. It is at this point I found that even when removing the brass screws, the circuit board would not pull out. The same LED casing design probably holds it in place. So, I stopped there. Bottom line, if your passenger door switch starts to show faulty operation, do the press down test on the drivers door switch before you do anything further. The drivers door switch is far more expensive to replace than the passenger door switch. But by my experience today, more than likely the drivers door switch is the one that needs replacing. :(

Ok, here are a few tips I've learned from experience. First, it would be good to know what year SC you have. Point is, the earlier year SC's have orange needles, '95 & "96 (maybe even later models) have red needles. The lights in the needles are essentially light diodes. AND, the key issue is the polarity if reversed between the orange and red needles. Yes, they simply pull out. No adjustment (at least if your careful removing them) needed. Sometimes, you can knock the Tach and Speedo needles off Zero a bit. All you need to do is pressure the needle a "click" or two as needed in the opposite direction it is off line of the Zero until it lines up. AND, if you need to replace your needles and your's are Orange, I can help you as I've got an extra set.

Got this from the "Specs" sticky. Excellent, by the way. 1995 Model Revised front air dam; extension deleted. Revised tail lamps. New wheel design. Cornering lamps replaced with foglamps. Audible remote entry. Revised power passenger seat. Two Questions: 1. Is the 1995 remote key the same single button design as earlier year? 2. Exactly what is different about the 1995 passenger seat vs. the 1994 passenger seat?

The changers are Panasonic. I took mine to the local Panasonic factory repair facility in Cerritos, CA (Near Valley View & Katella). Cost for complete refurbishment was $225. I'm to receive it this week. So, I'll report back on how happy I am with the results. Also, I'm told Lexus Dealers has an exchange program for refurbished units. Cost, I've heard, is around $300.

I agree also. You can get a duo mode digital Samsung 850 phone with factory car kit on e-bay for under $50 on e-bay. I have this kit, and it works great. By the way, if you do decide to go aftermarket, don't throw away your factory kit. I'm interested in it to tear it down to see how it ticks and how it plugs into the factory wire harness. Then I can post a thread on how you can fabricate an adaptor to utilize the factory harness as much as possible for installing the Samsung or any other aftermarket aftermarket handfree kit. I do know that all SC's have the cellular cable that runs into the trunk (near the factory radio antenna) for the cell antenna. Harada makes a power antenna replacement that is both for the radio and cell, so this cable/antenna set up can be used for a very factory like installation.

Luxury Motors, Monrovia on Myrtle. Ask for Steve. He was the top mechanic at Longo Lexus when he realized Longo was making big $ on his rep. So, he went private. He is a SC guru.

I strongly suggest you create sub categories for this section by model type. For instance, a SC sub-section, a IS sub-section, a LS sub section, etc. Basically along the lines as you have broken down the various discussion Forums. That way one can search for their model specific and doesn't have to wad through a bunch of add's that don't indicate model number. That might promote activity in parts car sales.

Sounds like you just became the clubs new parts supplier. Of course, you intend to pass them through to your fellow club members at your cost, right? <_< ;)

Ok, I went through every thread in this SC300/400/430 forum and could find no discussion on this. Attention Administrator.....The "pinned" Thread titled "For those interested in discounts direct from Lexus....", the key thread link doesn't work. Everyone knows that factory parts from the Lexus parts counter is expensive as heck. I also know that: - Many times someone else makes those parts for Toyota/Lexus. - Sometimes it's just plain better to go factory parts. - Sometimes you can get the same parts from the manufacturer that also make them for Lexus for less. -The best replacement is from one of these three sources. So, trying to find some economic balance here I thought I'd put this question to the knowledge base out there. Specificially, I need to replace my plugs, cap, and rotor. I always like to upgrade where I can and/or (like everyone else) save a few bucks if possible. 1. What is a aftermarket brand and best source for them that is considered an upgrade from Factory for these or any other parts this forum might want to discuss? 2. Does anyone know who makes these parts for Toyota/Lexus so I can perhaps cut out the middle man (read factory) mark up? 3. Is there a Lexus/Toyota factory parts supplier that gives good discounts to club members? UPDATE: Surfed the net and found these guys. Parts discounted about 17% from dealer list price (see "Electronic parts catalog) AND free UPS shipping anywhere in the US. http://store.yahoo.com/parkplacelexus/ Cheers to all that respond.

Check e-bay. There are several on auction right now, but don't recall colors. Search against Lexus sc.

Tom, As trick as this might seem, you really don't want one of these as everything cellular is going to digital. These factory phones are ONLY scratchy sounding analoge. E-bay is a good choice to look for this need. But, as an alternative, you could buy a Samsung 850 flip phone WITH Samsung factory hands free car kit for under $50 since the phone is only Duo-mode digital. State of the art is tri-mode. BUT, at least it's digital and you'll have the best of both worlds. The Car Kit can be installed so it otherwise acts and functions like the Lexus factory. Here are some current auctions: Factory Car Kit: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...&category=20377 Phone with extra battery: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...&category=43318

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, ......... but I am of the understanding that 1998 and above are programable to a replacement key. 1997 and earlier you have to buy a transponder key(s) with matching chip that installs on a computer module (as I recall) located behind the passenger seat. Thus the high cost recited for the '92.

If you get wheel replacements, I'd be interested in your stock wheels so you aren't stuck taking up valuable garage storage space. :D I'm in the Los Angeles area also.

You can get one on E-bay. They go for between $125-175. Try and find ones with a picture of it lite up so you know if it suffers from the dreaded burned out needle light problem common to these beauties.

There is a lengthy thread on this subject with error codes and all sorts of great technical information. But, I was lucky with a back to basics approach. The HCV is easy to access being near adjacent to the fire wall on the passenger side. It is held in place by a single 7mm nut that you access from the bottom. Remove the nut, two vacum hoses, and unhooked the two wire electrical connector. Now, logically, what we have is a magnetic valve. When the heater is turned on, electricity runs to the HCV moving the valve much like a relay. Further logical thinking, I'm in So Calif, so how often is the heater used? Conclusion, the valve simply got stuck from lack of use. Repair, a couple firm (not HARD) wacks against my work bench. Cleaned the electrical connector spades for good measure. Reinstalled. Everything works fine now. :) Lucky... probably. but certainly worth a try before replacing with the expensive Lexus replacement HCV. Hoping you have the same luck as I did. Drive well.

Just diagnosed this in my '94 SC400. Yup, the speakers go bad. I was doubting it was the speakers, thinking it was an amp as that seemed the most logical. But, I can confirm (as least in my case) both speakers went bad. You can check yours by simply having a spare speaker with twin lead. Pull the cover panel from the trunk and the connections are exposed to jump connection to the test speaker. Did that, the test speaker played fine. Pulled the rears speakers (a pain as you have to pull the rear seat and CAREFULLY remove the cover panel). Remove the 4 bolts, slide a spatchula under the speaker box edges (they stick over time) so you don't crack them when you pry up. Use a razor blade to cut away the screen cover. The stock speakers are only held in place by 4 screws. I replaced with a pair of 4 ohm, 60 Watt Sony's. Now, all is well.

On a differenct thread, the changer is suggested as made by Pioneer. Another that it is Panasonic (Masu-s hitty was mentioned - clever). I will confirm it is Panasonic as I've just pulled mine and found the Matsush ita reference. This is actually good news. I've had experience with a head unit for my daughters Acura that is actually made by Panasonic. The head unit was (as I recall) refurbished to factory specs for about $150. Panasonic has an over the counter location near Los Alamitos (SE of Los Angeles for you none Cali-fon-yuns). My suggestion is you send it directly to Panasonic for factory refurbishment to remove any repair mysteries and cut out the middle man mark up. By that I mean that most times this is what the local repair shop does, and then charge you additional over the (say) $150 for their time, trouble, and shipping costs (hey, they have mortgages to pay also, so very fair they get paid for the education curve). Anyway, I'll take mine to Panasonic tomorrow and report back as to the actual cost. By the way, the author of the Panasonic post (sounds like he really knows what he's talking about) suggests the only thing Nakamichi about the Nakamichi sterio upgrade is the amplifier. He suggests all components other than the Amp are Panasonic. But, he also suggests it is a VERY SERIOUS upgrade. So, perhaps well worth the retrofit from a wrecking yard donor it would seem. Drive well.