MyL3xus

Take off the lower plastic housing where the immobilizer is and allow it to air dry in the sun for up to 3 days, if its possible keep your car doors open during the day. Was able to contact a dealer who told me 99% of the time they are able to self reinitiate after shorting. Mine was caused by a faulty seal on the lower windshield where the runoff goes right over the immobilizer. Got my windshield resealed and hasn't happened since and I've been in the cash wash multiple times.

Thanks for the info. Unfortunately where I live there is no dealership or specific Toyota/Lexus garages. Few places are saying a bad battery or bad alternator can throw out bad voltages and cause it.

2008 Lexus IS250, 110k Miles, Frequently Serviced. 1) Recently Changed FOB battery as it was dead 2)Got the car washed, cleaners drove it back, when I tried to start it the next day it would only crank but not start. Used my Tech Steam to pull up codes and it showed Immobilizer was on, great...cleared the code and worked like a charm for 50 miles or so. Parked again overnight and next morning immobilizer is back enabled and will not clear this time. Key is detected fine, side views illuminate when next top the car, doors unlock just fine with remote as well as when hand is on handle. See attached errors. (VSC AND AFS has been on for months, can ignore them) Also, is pinning 4&13 and waiting 30 minutes a safe way to reprogram ECU with this model? All Codes.pdf Immobilizer Info.pdf Immobilizer.pdf VSC.pdf