VBdenny

I'd call 2500 good if you are ready to roll it quick. Only because most buyers will have never driven one of these.

Where is Wikileaks when you need them? I asked to see what the dealer was using but they refused,I will have another try when I next go.

The modified wrench part is interesting. I could modify any wrench. Wonder what it looks like?

That is a good sidenote on the engine mounts. I suppose if they were bad, the engine could lift and twist the EGR pipe. Anyone tried using JB Weld or something like that on it? Looking at the location, it sure doesn't look easy to change.

The drive light D is on because you are in D. The R is a signal.

Yup, one of the wires in the drivers side trunk hinge has broken. You may also notice is causes your transmission to have shifting issues. It is really an easy fix. The hardest part I had was unwrapping the black tape off the wires. Pull the wire assembly from the hinge. Remove the wrapping and tape and you will see. You will need to splice in a short section which means you will need to get a piece of wire about 3" long (18g I think) and a couple crimps and a crimping tool. You can get all the stuff at auto parts stores really cheap. Crimp it all up, wrap it with electrical tape and then, leave the wires out of the hinge. They don't show much and the reason the wires break is because they were slightly short and the flexing breaks them. The first time I fixed it, I put it all back in the hinge and a couple years later, it happened again. Easy and cheap fix 3" 18 gauge wire wire strippers or razor blade 18 gauge crimps crimping tool electrical tape patience Good luck.

one other thing, brake fluid will damage paint in a hurry.

hey Banshee, that was most interesting and why I read things here. Electronics are sensitive to temperature so that might be something. It would probably help the rest of us if you put your location on your profile since temperature and humidity in various areas is a lot different. Again, thanks for the comment because what you said is what we need to know.

When water pumps go, they go. They either leak, or sieze and that is it for them, no more pumping. Thermostat, hands down.

I got a cup of coffee.

Ahh but a few of the fuel system cleaners actually work. Since I switched to Top Tier fuels, I have never used it but back when I used cheap gas in other cars, it worked. The cheap stuff $3 -$7 is snake oil but I have had excellent results with both Valvoline and Slick 50 Complete Fuel System Cleaner. Two bottles are needed since you want a heavy dose and these cars have big tanks. If it doesn't work, you are only out $20. Yes, it probably is a good idea to do the timing belt and waterpump but it all depends on how much the car is worth and if the replacement is worth it. I have never heard of a Lexus timing belt breaking even with 200,000 miles on them. I know it is a reasonable and prudent precaution, all depends of your supply of $$$.

It would do your car a world of good to get it out and the Interstate and run it for a couple hundred miles. A little run up to about for awhile and after it is warmed up, get off and back on and accelerate heavily until fear of accidents of fear of cops overcomes you. You may see black smoke coming out the exhaust in your mirror which would be the carbon buildup departing. All that driving around town on shorts trips is not the best environment for your car. Use TOP TIER premium fuel and avoid discount gasoline, yeah I know it costs more. My 90 LS gets around 17 in the city but I often come off the light hot just because I can. I could probably do 19 if I was conservative with the accelerator but again, I am not.

I've never heard of a "failing" ECU. I think it works or it doesn't. Probably just caused by a broken or nearly broken wire in the trunk hinge, carbon deposits, or even shorting spark plug wires due to the cold and condensation, so spray them with WD-40. Dump in 2 bottles of a top quality Complete Fuel System Cleaner. Spend $10 PER bottle or you are not getting what you need. Skip the timing belt as it will easily last another 40,000 or longer if you don't hammer on the car. If you do have it changed you should also change the waterpump for another couple hundred because if you don't, Murphy's Law will kick in and it will go shortly because it was old and then, disturbed. Sounds like you have replaced several things so you already have quite a bit of dough into the car. Hearing the recommendation for a new oil pan means that someone who changed your oil crossthreaded the oil drain. I think they make replacement plugs. Tensioners are freewheeling pulleys which guide the serpentine belt. The pulleys apply pressure to the belt. After spinning as much as they have, the start singing, especially as the weather grows colder. I would try to squirt a little white lithium grease on the inner portion but cover the belt and be very careful not to get it on the belt. WD40 will help but not last very long. The tensioners are pretty cheap and fairly easy to replace. If you do nothing and just leave them alone, they will make a little noise but they can do that for years before they fail. When they fail, it smokes your serptine belt but they will usually make a real lot of noise as they get near the end. A whisper is not unusual, might even just be an old belt. Suggested Plan of Action: Leave the timing belt alone Cost $0 Leave the tensioners alone. Cost $0 Can of WD-40 Cost $3 Check for broken wires in the left trunk hinge. Cost $0 2 bottles of Valvoline or Slick 50 Complete Fuel System Cleaner. Cost $20 Go to any AUTOZONE or ADVANCE autoparts and use their OBDII scanner (free)to check codes. Cost $0 Use ONLY Top Tier fuel, never use discount gasoline. Then drive the thing for another 2 years and save yourself $20,000 for another one. Make your payments to yourself every month and then take your time looking for a replacement. I passed this point several years ago with my 1990 LS400 and I still drive it everyday and doesn't cost me hardly anything. I drive it and save money. Good luck and hope this helps.

I do not trust them either. I took mine there once and they left parts off and the n I had to bring it back and wait hours. Now I use a pen that uses ink that can be seen under a blacklight to mark parts before I take it anywhere.

Billy, I watched your slideshow (the car one) and that was great! I will have to do something like that with my old car pictures. I'm guessing that some of these were family cars.

Very interesting. My neighbor has an RX300 which always has both lights on. I will have to check that and see if that is the issue since none of the mechanics they took it to can figure it out. Great information, thanks.

The "A" setting is all bogeys which picks up all bands. The logic modes do something that filters signals but to know for sure you can check Valentine's website. You might also enter your unit's SN to see if an upgrade of software is available. I have head good things about the K40 but I'd miss my arrows.

disconnect and plug both vacuum lines leading to the PS pum and the smoke will be gone

That is a good price for them Agent 99. I used the Autozone pair for $20 and did have to drill a little but they protected my head so that was okay. Good to see you around.

where do you have to logic settings on yur V-1? I have 2 of them and both work great. I use the large "L" setting as I found the small "L" tends to cut down on false alarms and possible effectiveness.

I have used Valvoline Complete Fuel System Cleaner in the past with outstanding results. Pay $10 for the stuff or it is junk. While you are at it, get a K&N air filter. Works wonders to cure sluggishness.

Spray some WD-40 in the lock and try working it with the key. If the issue is a sticky lock cylinder, this might work. With remotes, the cylinders don't get used very often.

The PS units whine a lot when they are low on fluid which is fairly common.

If you did this job yourself, take the disributor cap off and check everything. Sometimes you have to take 2 steps back to take one forward.

Well 90, I got a good laugh from your comment about going from the 240D to the 400 and change in power. My truck is a 4 cyl, 5 speed, not much HP in my truck. Then I get in the LS and you know what happens at that time. Unlike you, I still stuggle with my restraint when driving my LS400 because it is so much fun. Yeah, it is old, 21 years now, but still drives just great. I figure in another 4 years I can put antique plates on it for $52. No renewels, they are good forever and then there is no inspection either. Only rule, you can't use it for work or drive it to work, casual use and maintenance runs. Got that covered, casual use only. They just don't know my definition of "casual."