vwdee

You have to remove all of the screws from the door panel itself. I remember two behind the door pull and the others behind the caps all around the panel. There is also another screw behind the black door handle plate. Just use a screwdriver and pry it open, then unscrew the screw. The door handle is also held on by plastic "pop rivets", so be careful when pulling the panel from the door frame. Make sure you use an up and out motion when doing so. I think your problem is related to the white plastic (teflon) traveler that rides in the metal guide. Here's basically what happens when u roll the window up and down: There are two separate cables which wrap around a plastic capstan (pulley like mechanism) in oppsite directions, then pass thru conduit guides and end up being molded into the teflon traveler--ea cable has a small metallic cube attached to its end. What probably happened is the cable that pulls the window down broke loose from the traveler. As far as the regulator, mine did the same thing. I had to replace the regulator because the cable in the regulator broke and became gnarled beyond recognition. When you get the new regulator, make sure you compare the two and replace the housing with the old regulator. It is a pretty easy step (you will notice what is missing on the new regulator). If you like preventative maintenance, replace the door handle pins, they tend to break on older cars. It is only a $5.00 part but saves you a whole lot of trouble in the long run. I cant remember the part numbers but I will look. Let me know if you need anything else. Dee

The crank shaft pulley actually broke, so I had it and the serpentine belt replaced but I didnt replace the timing belt. I put the car on the lift and found out that a hose on my rack and pinion was crimped. I also noticed that the oild in the drip pan/skid plate (wahtever you call it) was of a reddish tint, so I am assuming that it is from backflow from the power steering pump. Does anyone know where I can find the part number to the hoses for the rack and pinion. I did a few searches and came up empty.

A few months ago, I had the crank shaft pulley and belt replaced. Now there is a leak that seems to be in the front of my engine and my power steering is non existent until I warm the car up and/or move the steering wheel back and forth for a few minutes. The mechanic that did the work said that they are not realated....I am not too sure! I was curious to know if anyone knew if the leak might be a main seal leak or a power steering leak of some sort. Also, what should I look for and how can I fix the leak? I am going to put the car on a lift and check it from underneath. I will post the outcome.

Check your rack and pinion and see if there are any leaks in the tubes.

Maverick, you are absolutely correct. Although not the fastest thing on the streets, the SC does have the sophistication the above mentioned cars will never have. I have chosen to modify my SC slightly and will tastefully choose beautificaion and performance mods that enhance the cars performance and looks. I had to evacuate Florida and head to Atlanta this weekend and noone could believe my car was a '95. It is a car that I feel comfortable in jeans and t shirt as well as a suit. Thanks Maverick, for bringing me back to the real reason I chose the SC over a Bimmer.

EVOs and WRXs are fast. They are 4WD. Don't expect to win easily. Especially since the SCs are so heavy. You ONLY have a intake as your sole "power" modification. Everything else doesn't matter. Therefore you will lose. Even if you changed over to a stick, you will still lose. Only way, would be some form of forced induction. ← Personally, I don't believe in sinking a whole helluva lot of money in a car that you are still paying on. Why add another 5-10 grand to a car that you just bought for 30 grand (which you really don't own anyway). Now, I understand everyone spends $$ on what they choose (i.e. my dogs cost 2k a piece) so I am not downing anyone for dropping $$ on a car that the bank owns. it is just not something that I would do....hence modding a 10 year old car. With that being said, I talked to someone the other day that has an automatic pulling over 500 hp and and he said to start with a high performance tranny, then go from there. I am not looking to win any 1/4 mile runs at 10 seconds flat, but something that makes people say daaayuuummm when I zip past their little Civic.

As I was headed to the local Wal-Mart yesterday, I came in comtact with an EVO who had it in for me. As we were neck and neck, a CIVIC joined the race. I took the CIVIC but couldnt overcome the EVO. My car is pretty much all show and no go. Current mods include K & N filter, body kit and 18" wheels with kuhmo tires. I believe the exhaust is stock and I installed aftermarket tips. Beautiful car but speed is a factor. Here is the delimna.....the SC300 is automatic! My question to you guys is, should I modify the hell out of the car or don't even think about it until I change it over to a manual shift? Any and all advice will be greatly appreciated.

The first thing I would do is check the fuses, relays and swithces. Then look at replacement prices. I bought a VW from a guy who said his accelerator kept getting stuck and the A/C didnt work and he just wanted to get rid of it. After some probing, I found that his floormat was getting stuck in the accelerator and the A/C problem was just a blown fuse. I told him they were easy and inexpensive fixes and to keep the car. He sold me the car at a steal because I was honest. Just a thought!

I would have to agree. But make sure you don't have a CD stuck in your changer. I have a 93 and my changer would not give back one of my favorite CD's. It acted the same way yours did. I had to keep pushing the eject button until I could see the CD enough to grab it with a pair of tweezers and pulled out the CD. It works the same as always.....OK...not perfect but just OK. I won't be putting in homemade CD's anymore!

1991 BMW 325i 16" Borbet wheels, Kuhma Ecsta tires, Intake, k & N filter, Supersprint Exhaust, Conforti Chip, koni shocks, eibach springs. Great car, can't belived I went Japanese but I am glad I did!

Well my regulator left yesterday and I didn't get to cancel the order and order the other one. Oh well....I will just bit the bullet and pay the extra $50. Although I have air I love to ride around town with the windows down.

From the door frame. Thanks ← Did you get this taken care of yet? If not, there are 6 bolts. 3 on the upper right that holds the motor and 3 that hold the regulator. Once the 6 are taken off, you basically have to work the regulator and motor loose. It took me a few minutes but it finally released.

------------------------- I purchased new Lexus OEM regulator for '93 SC4000 for $120 total including shipping. The parts dealer is Spartan Motor Mall located in Lansing MI ph# 1 800 333 8696 or 1 800 998 7557. Ask for Brad ...he is easy to deal with and most likely will give you a discount. I received part 4 days aft placing order. Have your VIN handy when ordering. L ← Dang, I wish i would have seen that. I just ordered mine at $170 with 8.75 shipping. I am going to see if I can cancel the order and reorder from Spartan. Thanks

It could be a few problems depending on certain situations. If the compressor clutch is engaging, then it may not be the compressor. Unless there is a leak. If there is a leak, take it to an A/C shop and they will put dye in the system and trace the leak. You may need to replace your orpheus tube as well. Make sure the compressor is engaging and not just the vent blower blowing air. I am just giving generic advice because I am a new Lexus owner and have not had to deal with this problem on my car yet. Dee

Are you talking about how to remove the regulator from the window itself or from the door frame? I just took mine apart yesterday. Also, does anyone have any good parts suppliers that have regulators?

Thanks! I was wondering if I was goiing to get a response.....LOL

Try this site. http://www.oxygensensors.com/

Does anyone know of a good site where I can post technical questions? All of my posts in here are going unanswered. Am I posting in the wrong section?

Recently my drivers side window stoppped rolling down all of the way. I have ruled out the window regulator/motor being bad. I have looked around the door panel to see how to take it off but since i don't have a manual, I figured I would get another opinion before I broke anything. Has anyone taken the door panel off and what is the best way to do so?

i think he was talking about the aftermarket radio kit.

Is that repair manual the one for all import cars or did you get one specific to the LEX?

Has anyone ever had problems witht their cars electrical system fading in and out. On some occassions, mostly when the A/C is on (but not all the time) my radio will fade in and out. Starting today, my lights flicker and radio goes out for a nano second. Also my drivers side window only rolls down halfway. Other window works fine (go figure). Is this a electrical probleam a ground problem, an alternator problem or something worse? Any insight would be great!

My CD changer just conked out on me a few days ago, now I have a CD stuck in the changer. Anyone know how to get it out???? Also, my radio has been fading in and out every now and then. Any idea waht that is all about? Dee

Do you know if you are hearing engine noise or a whining sound. I had the same problem with another car of mine. I installed a "ground loop isolator" and that fixed the problem.

I am a newbie lexus sc300 owner and I was wondering the same thing about the radio. I recently noticed that I was having problems with my CD and radio cutting out. Is this a serious harness issue or maybe a loose wire or two?