Bubbles

Stock supra springs on an sc will lower it about .4 inches front and .6 in the back, so I'm guessing you should expect 1.5 inches lowering all the way around. You need to use supra shocks because the springs are somewhat different.

The supra drivers seat only has slide forward/back and recline up/down. I believe there's only two or four wires that you'll need. They should be blue and white on both the male and female connectors. You'll have to get a small screwdriver to get the male pins out in order to connect it to the female connector, otherwise you'll have to cut the wires.

I believe I sealed the outer rim of the headlight (it should be a tad bit behind the rubber stripping, but I didn't seal the holes.

I believe its somewhere along the 5th-8th character.

Yah it has come up before. It seems that some people have different opinions about them.

About 3/8" in the front and 5/8" in the back.

The stock offset is 50mm. The same goes for the Supra TT, and the Supra TT 17" wheels will fit on the TT brakes. That's all I know.

I have heard that this Power Mirror Computer Control box is the culprit. It is located behind the dashboard next to the steering wheel column; the area above your right leg while driving.

My mirrors don't work either so I tried to save the 2 pounds by taking it off, but after an hour of working upside-down I gave up and left it there. Many people just buy a used computer box and zip-tie it to the existing box and swap over the connections.

Does the humming have an interval sound. Something like: WooWooWooWoo..., or is it Wooooooooooooooooo...? Try turning in both directions somewhat hard at 40+mph and see if the sound changes while you are turning.

I replaced my rear wheel bearings. I think the previous owner got hit in the back, so it might have hit the rear hub and increased the bearing gap. Otherwise, you won't need to repack the bearings. When you start hearing the bearings fail, you just have to replace it - the rear bearings and races cost about $200-300 parts.

It could be the exhaust gas recirculation no?

Was it free? You guys should make a road course, but of course only one goes at a time.

I had this problem... it's a grounding problem. If you hit the brakes, the brake lights go on and grounding problems happen. If you hit the turn signals, same thing, except it's pretty cool how the headlights dim as the turn signal lights up. My fix was to take off the negative battery terminal clamp and sand the inside of that along with the terminal itself. Then do it to the postive side and put the postive side back on then the negative.

It'll fix most of your problem (i.e. your car won't die out)

I have read some good reviews on GM Top End Cleaner (haven't heard of it beind done on Japanese cars though). You basically run the car, open a little gap in the throttle body, and then you spray the stuff in until the engine floods with it and stalls. Then you wait for 24 hours or so and turn the car back up, and then a bunch of smoke will come out of the exhaust, which means it did its job. Supposedly you have to do an oil change after that because the cleaner might have passed through the piston rings.

The alternative "fix" is to dim the lighting system all the way down and wait until the led starts to come back to life. Then increase the brightness until it starts to flicker off, and then turn it down a bit.

What I did was a coolant-to-throttle body bypass. I went to the local auto store and bought (2 thick plastic "straws" with ribs on each end) and (a foot of fuel hose (heater hose is probably better)). I also bought (4 mini hose clamps) that are the same as the ones that hold the air intake to the throttle body. I then hooked up the old hose to one end of the straw, then hooked the new hose to the other end of the straw and then clamped those two down, and I repeated the process on the other hose. I read that this could give you some extra horsepower, except that it is not recommended if it snows in Arizona.

Keep in mind that when I did this I had a sense that the throttle body got hotter after I turned off the engine. It may be true, but I don't know.

You are correct. They might have though of the sc400 having a 5-speed automatic tranny in the later years.

The Toyota looks pretty good. I bought a case of 10, so it better be good.

I remember running through this link on the forums: http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html

It says to stay away from FRAM Extra Guard, but the FRAM Tough Guard is not bad.

DYI is acutally DIY == DO IT YOURSELF

Cool setup, but I'm not into sound systems. I'm thinking of taking out my front speakers to improve the weight distribution... lol.

I read that Tokico and KYB are common aftermarket shocks. The OEM shocks are KYB in the front and Tokico in the back (or vice versa...), but are non-adjustable and don't have a high of a dampening rate as aftermarket. I put on a set of used supra turbo OEM springs and shocks and it dropped the ride height about .6 inches in the back and .35 in the front and the ride quality doesn't seem to have changed.

Sway bars you can put on most supra anti-roll bars but you must buy two rear subframe mounts listed at $80 each (parts.com has a dealer selling it for 62), and you might need a bracket to hold up the bar to the mount.

There's also daizen anti-roll bars, which are supposedly the stiffness you can go. These mount directly to your stock mounting positions and shouldn't pose any fitment problems.

How could I forget... the anti-roll/stabilizer/anti-sway/sway bars can be fitted. The rears need extra parts though. I just bought a rear bar.

Wheels, brakes (the TT brakes need TT wheels or equivalent), engine, front seats, control arms (maybe).

No idea, but the lower the speed rating, the better. It goes H V Z Y W. Or maybe it's W Y. Try to get V

Well because the tires are 225, the sidewall might be perpendicular to the wheel, so the shock turns into rough ride quality.

Anyways, 225/40/18 is has too small of a sidewall, your speedodometer might be off (it says that you're going faster than what you really are). You should be going 245/40/18

And check your tire pressures! Many people tend to use high pressures of 35+ psi because the tire volume is small.

Check your tire inflation pressures. They should be around 30-32 no?