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Zeus01

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Everything posted by Zeus01

  1. You're welcome Tommi. I looked for the info in my owners manual for the '08 and completely missed it - blind in one eye, can't see out of the other. The only thing I was unable to resolve is the automatic steering re-set. Prior to cleaning my battery posts my steering wheel would extend from the retracted position without fail any time the key was inserted into the ignition. This was regardless of whether or not the seat pre-sets were cycled whenever my squeeze drove the car. But now, whenever I select seat position #1 for myself after she drove it, the steering wheel remains retracted when the key is inserted. After I manually extend and lower it to the driving position it behaves normally, ie: retracts on key removal and extends on key insertion - until after the next time she selects seat position #2....
  2. Fixed. Found the following video that explains the process. To reset the power windows it is necessary to put the windows part-way down using the switches on the door for each window. Then pull each switch upward and hold for three to five seconds AFTER the window has closed. This re-sets the windows. How To Re-Calibrate 2nd Generation Lexus RX Windows Quickly (Lexus RX330, RX350, RX400H etc.) - YouTube
  3. Tried the individual windows on each door. They go up and down, but only via their own switch (ie: not the one located on the drivers door - except of course for the switch that controls the driver's window), and only as long as I hold the switch down (or up, depending on direction). There is no one-touch feature at any of the four windows. The sunroof seems unaffected and operates normally in all parameters, including one-touch.
  4. So I performed the routine task of cleaning the lead-acid battery posts, which of course requires removing the clamps from the posts and then reinstalling them once the posts and the clamps have been cleaned. I expected the power seat resets to require re-programming afterward, and this was in fact the case. Those pre-sets are now back to normal. What I did not expect was a) for the steering wheel to refrain from going from its stowed position when parked to its pre-set position when the ignition key is inserted into the switch, and b) for the power windows to quit working - except for the one in the drivers' door, which does work, but only when the button is held down or up manually, ie: the automatic one-touch-opens-or-closes-the-window feature does not work. First, the steering wheel: Once I manually move it into the desired driving position it operates normally thereafter, ie: it retracts when the key is removed, and moves to the preset driving position when the key is inserted. But as soon as my better half selects the set-position pre-sets that suits her (ie: position 2) the wheel once again fails to extend upon key insertion until after she manually positions it to her liking, after which it continues to operate normally. That is, until I re-select seat setting position 1 again, at which time the steering wheel re-set process must be repeated. Now onto the main post topic of the inop power windows: Is there a re-set feature for this glitch? I found nothing in the owners' manual, and the info on fuse positions for these windows is sketchy at best. Wife drove the car to work, so I cannot check the fuses at this time. Has anyone else experienced these snafus? If so, what was the fix?
  5. Update: I've replaced both of my HID low-beam lamps as per the above-linked video. A few observations for removing the headlight assembly that were not mentioned in the video: 1. These assembles have mass. when you succeed in freeing them from the mountings in which they live they will want to rest on your bumper and flop every which way. To avoid scratches to your paint job, place a towel over the top of the detached area of the bumper. 2. There is one more mounting bolt on each headlight assembly that was not mentioned in the video. Maybe both of his were missing from a previous owner or shop's re and re of the units. I found one of mine was not installed but the other was. The bolt in question is yet another 10-mm-headed bolt located down low on the outboard side of the assembly and pointing downward, ie: accessed from the top using a ratchet, 10-mm socket and a long extension. The right-hand bolt is located just above the washer fluid reservoir, and the left-hand bolt is located just under and forward of the fuse panel. I would not blame you if you left these bolts out completely upon reassembly. Even with that bolt missing it's still a more solid and secure mounting than anything from say, Fiat-Chrysler. 3. Remember that upper outboard mounting tab that the guy in the video was admonishing you to lift before pulling the assembly off so as not to break the tab? The one that's held in position not only by the bolt but also by a protrusion that extends downward into a hole in the metal framework? Be *very careful* when prying upward on this tab. Old plastic is weak plastic, and mine broke off on the right-hand side. Maybe it had previously been compromised by the previous owner, but hard to say. Hopefully the epoxy repair will hold, but we'll see. Once familiar with the procedure it's not a long task. It took me about an hour to do both, but if I had to do it again I'm sure I could halve that time frame. BTW, if you're doing the headlight-aiming procedure you'll need a Phillips screwdriver for the screw accessible from the top, and a1/4-drive 8-mm socket and 1/4-drive ratchet for the bolt head adjustment accessed via the same two pieces of hardware in the wheel well that you removed to change the low-beam lamp. My headlight aiming operation will have to wait until darkness falls because I do not have the facilities to do it in daylight, ie: a darkened garage with a level floor sufficient to park the vehicle so that the headlights are at least 20 ft from the wall.
  6. Replace Headlights in Your Lexus SUV - YouTube The first thing you will notice (ie: within the first minute) is that the author of this video is WRONG about the low-beam headlight lamp location. He states that if you're only replacing the low-beams it's not necessary to pull the headlight assembly off. He erroneously identified the high-beam bulbs as the low-beam. The low beam lights are in fact the outboard ones with the spherical lenses - and impossible to change without removing the bumper cover hardware to access the screws holding the headlight assembly into place. Other than that, everything else in the video is accurate, and he walks you through the entire procedure. It's not an overly long or difficult process, just a stupidly-un-necessary design.
  7. I have. There is a Youtube video that I stumbled across. I'll find it and post the link.
  8. Yup. I've adjusted headlights before, and that's the time-honored procedure. I'll be doing that today as well - now that my bulbs have arrived.
  9. Good to know. Always best to support small businesses rather than the multi-nationals. I'll also need to aim my headlights, a simple task it appears. Right now on dark rural nights the low beams only project about 8 or 10 car lengths before abrupt darkness ensures. No gradual fade with the HIDs - just sudden and complete darkness beyond that point.
  10. Thanks again Dave. Decided to stick with HID lamps and bought from Rock Auto as you suggested. (ordered a pair of the Phillips D2S as recommended in an independent quality-comparison search). Should be here by next weekend. I'll pull the bumper cover and install them myself. Apparently it's best to change both since a) the computer sometimes notices discrepancies and causes one bulb to quit after a few seconds or minutes, and b) if one lamp went bad the other is likely to follow sooner rather than later.
  11. The R/H light has failed. I'm thinking it would be better to go with an L.E.D. upgrade for both (solid state, more durable) if there is a compatible one available that's plug-and-play. So far I've found nothing on Youtube.
  12. Interesting site and yes, the prices are very reasonable. I guess what I need to know is, are these halogen female plugs compatible with the light assembly I currently have, ie: the HID system with AFS? Can a halogen or LED bulb be installed into this new female plug and then simply pushed into the receptacle and twisted 1/4 turn, ie: "plug and play? Or do I need to replace the entire light/lens assembly on both sides? Still not able to reach the Lexus service department for their price on simply replacing the stock low-beam HID/AFS lamp with stock. Up here in Canachinazuela everything is at least 30% pricier than in the states (thanks to the exchange rate) and often as high as 50% more.
  13. Thanks Dave, I'll check it out. Looking for a kit that's a direct swap - or a more reasonably priced alternative bulb to the stock HID without compromising bulb life.
  14. Some designs leave me shaking my head slowly from side to side and wishing I could find the grave of the designer, dig him up and kill him again: Turns out that to change the low-beam bulbs on the 2003-2008 RX series SUVs the bumper cover needs to be removed and then the headlight assy can be unbolted and pulled forward to gain access to the bulb. Most other designs require only that we remove an access cover, turn the old bulb a quarter turn, remove, un-plug and replace in reverse order - a five-minute task. Seems my 2008 RX400h is a different animal: Before learning the bumper has to be undone I'd removed the battery and the cover for my low-beam headlight on the passengers' side. Once able to squeeze three of my sausage-sized fingers into the hole I was able to touch a couple of springy tabs that I suspect hold the bulb assy in place, but that was about it. Also, this caused the whole bulb assy to swivel, wobble and dance like Don Knotts after about six rum and cokes. The assemble did not feel anything like the quarter-turn halogen lamps I'd been used to changing on other vehicles add nauseum. I'm assuming mine are the HID bulbs with the steering-following feature(?) This is a new one for me. So: Can these bulbs be purchased from anywhere but Lexus? If so, what might be the part number and price range? I'm guessing they're stupid-expensive to the point where an LED upgrade might be the best route - assuming that option/kit even exists. Anyone more familiar with the options or lack thereof?
  15. For sale is a brand new (after-market, not OEM) right-hand rear wheel bearing/hub assy for a 2006 Lexus RX400h. Please read that again: this unit is NOT for the all-wheel-drive version of the RX400h but rather, only for the front-wheel-drive version of the RX400h, which was only produced in the 2006 model year. This is a free-wheeling unit with no splines as would be the case for the AWD type. (This part was ordered in summer, 2020 in error and never installed/used, and is still in its original box). Price is $50 US plus shipping, and weight is (guestimate) around 20 lbs. Thanks, Brett bcampbell62@outlook.com
  16. For sale is my rear drive motor/differential assembly removed from my 2008 Lexus RX400h on 25 August, 2020 at 144,793 miles. (I can supply Carfax report from March, 2019 at approx. 118,000 miles). Fluid was not drained (all the better to keep the unit moisture-free during storage) but should be changed as I do not know when it was last changed - sometime prior to my purchasing the vehicle. This unit was removed because it was erroneously thought to be the cause of noise coming from the rear of the vehicle at speeds over 30mph. After replacing the unit the noise persisted, and subsequently replacing the R/H rear wheel bearing solved the problem. (yeah, I know. tough - and expensive - way to learn that there was nothing wrong with the original drive motor/diff unit). I can also send copies of the service records for both the drive motor swap and the R/H rear wheel bearing replacement for verification upon request. So now this unit is for sale. Shipping is not included, so as the buyer you get to select the shipping company and method. Thanks, Brett bcampbell62@outlook.com
  17. Update: Well Jim, you were correct: The aftermarket rear wiper blades are garbage vs. the genuine article from Lexus. Once temps here finally rose above freezing I was able to remove, clean, lube and reinstall the rear wiper arm and blade assembly - with little to no improvement in effectiveness. Went to Lexus and purchased a new blade. Both blade assemblies looked exactly the same, but right away I could feel the difference between the two blades as I had both lying on the counter: The after-market blade assembly exhibited stiffness in the joints that support the wiper strip. The Lexus blade had no such stiffness, readily flexing with minimal effort. The new blade now wipes the entire window with no areas of poor contact. Even the price was not excessive. The blades purchased from Amazon and from Canadian Tire (like Walmart or Pep Boys) were in the neighborhood of $20 . the Lexus blade was $24 taxes in. If those numbers seem excessive it's because nearly everything sold up here is around 30 to 40% higher in price than they are in the US - owing to our Liberal-government-engineered deflated dollar value ($1 Canadian = around 0.72 US) as well as economy of scales - or lack thereof up here. Thanks again for the guidance, and hopefully this helps others who may be having this issue. Moral of story: don't replace rear wiper blades with after-market garbage. Spring for the Lexus blades.
  18. Thanks Jim. My blade does look like that one, but I'll need to take a closer look at it to confirm if it deviates in any way from what you've described. When I physically apply pressure (not much) to the blade while it's in motion it wipes just fine. But the spring in the arm just doesn't seem to provide much tension to provide the necessary firm contact with the glass to follow the curvature. One thing I did notice when I replaced the arm and blade last time: for about the first day id did wipe about 90% of the swept area of the window. But by the following day it was back to only the lower 30% as though I hadn't done a thing. Still have to call Lexus, but work keeps getting in the way.
  19. Yup, we certainly need that rear wiper here, especially in the winter months: snow, ice, road salt, etc. Too late to reinstall the previous wiper arm, it's now landfill. It did however appear to be the exact same design as the one I replaced it with, complete with spring and spring tension. On that note, maybe the one I tossed was not the original either(?) Or maybe it was the original, but the spring was no longer strong enough to provide full contact - and it's replacement came with a weaker spring right out of the box? (that one was an Amazon purchase btw).
  20. Thanks Jim. I did indeed replace the wiper blade assy (not just the refill) twice, and the entire arm (once). Parts were aftermarket, not OEM. I'll try the denatured alcohol strategy and quiz one of the Lexus techs about the issue. Looks like I may have to spring for OEM. Your theory about the curved window makes sense. What does not make sense is the complete lack of complaints by others on any of these forums regarding this problem. If it's a design flaw I'd have expected to reports to be the rule rather than the exception...
  21. My 2008 RX400h has a rear-wiper issue that existed before I bought the vehicle two years ago: The rear wiper does not make sufficient contact with the outer two-thirds of the wiper blade's length. It only smears the water/dirt, making visibility in the main line of sight even worse. It wipes fine at the bottom of the window, but not at the middle and top. Attempted fixes that failed: 1. replaced wiper blade with new. (well, duh...) 2) replaced wiper blade (again) and replaced wiper arm with new - thinking maybe it was simply a case of a weak wiper arm spring. Assuming that all rear windows are created equal, the problem must be with the wiper motor mount itself. There is no detectible looseness that might have been caused by a worn mounting surface. But could there be an issue with a removal by the original owner or their shop that was missing a shim or three upon reinstallation? Has anyone else experienced this annoyance? Any help most appreciated. Thanks in advance, B.
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