Do Not Sell My Personal Information Jump to content


Regular Member
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Zeus01 last won the day on July 25

Zeus01 had the most liked content!


Contact Methods

  • First Name

Profile Information

  • Lexus Model
  • Lexus Year
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Zeus01's Achievements


Enthusiast (6/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator Rare
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later
  • Conversation Starter

Recent Badges



  1. You're welcome Tommi. I looked for the info in my owners manual for the '08 and completely missed it - blind in one eye, can't see out of the other. The only thing I was unable to resolve is the automatic steering re-set. Prior to cleaning my battery posts my steering wheel would extend from the retracted position without fail any time the key was inserted into the ignition. This was regardless of whether or not the seat pre-sets were cycled whenever my squeeze drove the car. But now, whenever I select seat position #1 for myself after she drove it, the steering wheel remains retracted when the key is inserted. After I manually extend and lower it to the driving position it behaves normally, ie: retracts on key removal and extends on key insertion - until after the next time she selects seat position #2....
  2. Fixed. Found the following video that explains the process. To reset the power windows it is necessary to put the windows part-way down using the switches on the door for each window. Then pull each switch upward and hold for three to five seconds AFTER the window has closed. This re-sets the windows. How To Re-Calibrate 2nd Generation Lexus RX Windows Quickly (Lexus RX330, RX350, RX400H etc.) - YouTube
  3. Tried the individual windows on each door. They go up and down, but only via their own switch (ie: not the one located on the drivers door - except of course for the switch that controls the driver's window), and only as long as I hold the switch down (or up, depending on direction). There is no one-touch feature at any of the four windows. The sunroof seems unaffected and operates normally in all parameters, including one-touch.
  4. So I performed the routine task of cleaning the lead-acid battery posts, which of course requires removing the clamps from the posts and then reinstalling them once the posts and the clamps have been cleaned. I expected the power seat resets to require re-programming afterward, and this was in fact the case. Those pre-sets are now back to normal. What I did not expect was a) for the steering wheel to refrain from going from its stowed position when parked to its pre-set position when the ignition key is inserted into the switch, and b) for the power windows to quit working - except for the one in the drivers' door, which does work, but only when the button is held down or up manually, ie: the automatic one-touch-opens-or-closes-the-window feature does not work. First, the steering wheel: Once I manually move it into the desired driving position it operates normally thereafter, ie: it retracts when the key is removed, and moves to the preset driving position when the key is inserted. But as soon as my better half selects the set-position pre-sets that suits her (ie: position 2) the wheel once again fails to extend upon key insertion until after she manually positions it to her liking, after which it continues to operate normally. That is, until I re-select seat setting position 1 again, at which time the steering wheel re-set process must be repeated. Now onto the main post topic of the inop power windows: Is there a re-set feature for this glitch? I found nothing in the owners' manual, and the info on fuse positions for these windows is sketchy at best. Wife drove the car to work, so I cannot check the fuses at this time. Has anyone else experienced these snafus? If so, what was the fix?
  5. Update: I've replaced both of my HID low-beam lamps as per the above-linked video. A few observations for removing the headlight assembly that were not mentioned in the video: 1. These assembles have mass. when you succeed in freeing them from the mountings in which they live they will want to rest on your bumper and flop every which way. To avoid scratches to your paint job, place a towel over the top of the detached area of the bumper. 2. There is one more mounting bolt on each headlight assembly that was not mentioned in the video. Maybe both of his were missing from a previous owner or shop's re and re of the units. I found one of mine was not installed but the other was. The bolt in question is yet another 10-mm-headed bolt located down low on the outboard side of the assembly and pointing downward, ie: accessed from the top using a ratchet, 10-mm socket and a long extension. The right-hand bolt is located just above the washer fluid reservoir, and the left-hand bolt is located just under and forward of the fuse panel. I would not blame you if you left these bolts out completely upon reassembly. Even with that bolt missing it's still a more solid and secure mounting than anything from say, Fiat-Chrysler. 3. Remember that upper outboard mounting tab that the guy in the video was admonishing you to lift before pulling the assembly off so as not to break the tab? The one that's held in position not only by the bolt but also by a protrusion that extends downward into a hole in the metal framework? Be *very careful* when prying upward on this tab. Old plastic is weak plastic, and mine broke off on the right-hand side. Maybe it had previously been compromised by the previous owner, but hard to say. Hopefully the epoxy repair will hold, but we'll see. Once familiar with the procedure it's not a long task. It took me about an hour to do both, but if I had to do it again I'm sure I could halve that time frame. BTW, if you're doing the headlight-aiming procedure you'll need a Phillips screwdriver for the screw accessible from the top, and a1/4-drive 8-mm socket and 1/4-drive ratchet for the bolt head adjustment accessed via the same two pieces of hardware in the wheel well that you removed to change the low-beam lamp. My headlight aiming operation will have to wait until darkness falls because I do not have the facilities to do it in daylight, ie: a darkened garage with a level floor sufficient to park the vehicle so that the headlights are at least 20 ft from the wall.
  6. Replace Headlights in Your Lexus SUV - YouTube The first thing you will notice (ie: within the first minute) is that the author of this video is WRONG about the low-beam headlight lamp location. He states that if you're only replacing the low-beams it's not necessary to pull the headlight assembly off. He erroneously identified the high-beam bulbs as the low-beam. The low beam lights are in fact the outboard ones with the spherical lenses - and impossible to change without removing the bumper cover hardware to access the screws holding the headlight assembly into place. Other than that, everything else in the video is accurate, and he walks you through the entire procedure. It's not an overly long or difficult process, just a stupidly-un-necessary design.
  7. I have. There is a Youtube video that I stumbled across. I'll find it and post the link.
  8. Yup. I've adjusted headlights before, and that's the time-honored procedure. I'll be doing that today as well - now that my bulbs have arrived.
  9. Good to know. Always best to support small businesses rather than the multi-nationals. I'll also need to aim my headlights, a simple task it appears. Right now on dark rural nights the low beams only project about 8 or 10 car lengths before abrupt darkness ensures. No gradual fade with the HIDs - just sudden and complete darkness beyond that point.
  10. Thanks again Dave. Decided to stick with HID lamps and bought from Rock Auto as you suggested. (ordered a pair of the Phillips D2S as recommended in an independent quality-comparison search). Should be here by next weekend. I'll pull the bumper cover and install them myself. Apparently it's best to change both since a) the computer sometimes notices discrepancies and causes one bulb to quit after a few seconds or minutes, and b) if one lamp went bad the other is likely to follow sooner rather than later.
  11. The R/H light has failed. I'm thinking it would be better to go with an L.E.D. upgrade for both (solid state, more durable) if there is a compatible one available that's plug-and-play. So far I've found nothing on Youtube.
  12. Interesting site and yes, the prices are very reasonable. I guess what I need to know is, are these halogen female plugs compatible with the light assembly I currently have, ie: the HID system with AFS? Can a halogen or LED bulb be installed into this new female plug and then simply pushed into the receptacle and twisted 1/4 turn, ie: "plug and play? Or do I need to replace the entire light/lens assembly on both sides? Still not able to reach the Lexus service department for their price on simply replacing the stock low-beam HID/AFS lamp with stock. Up here in Canachinazuela everything is at least 30% pricier than in the states (thanks to the exchange rate) and often as high as 50% more.
  • Create New...