viclykewhoa

can some one please send a copy of the repair manual to the following email:

gabegabrag@yahoo.com

thank you! i have been looking for one for ever.

B)

what was the condition of the brake rotors? were they machined/turned at the same time the pads were replaced?

also, what condition were the calipers in? no sticking pistons?

Rotors are in good condition. Did not turn them. Calipers work fine no sticking. I bedded in the pads. No vibrations. Just the grinding noise from driver front when braking hard.

i get a grinding noise as well after i put on axxis pads. let me know if you find out what the cause is. i'm going to get my rotors checked out this weekend to see if they are too worn.

is there a way to tell if your rotors need to be replaced without measuring them?

i am thinking about purchasing an M3 style lip spoiler for my gs as it gets the driver side repainted due to a hit and run and keying. i've seen some M3 style lip spoilers for under ten dollars on eBay but i am not too confident about the quality. does anyone have experience with them?

hey all,

it looks like i've been having a string of bad luck. my driver's side quarter panel and bumper got hit at the beginning of august and that's going to cost me about $1,500 to fix. and tonight as i was about to go out, i saw that there was a long scratch starting from the rear driver side quarter panel and ending at the front fender.

the scratch is pretty deep it looks. the layer of silver paint is gone and i see what i believe is the white primer. i am livid! what kind of person would go around keying people's cars. so, this is what i want to ask, can that long scratch be touched up or would i have to repaint every panel (quarter, two driver side doors and fender) that was scratched or would i be able to have it touched up. and if i do have it touched up will i still be able to see where the scratch was and where the touch up paint was applied to?

if anyone has had any experience with touching up scratches i would greatly appreciate the input.

thanks.

In the post are the correct procedures for diagnosing the P0125 code. Also included is the procedure for replacing the thermostat if you should so choose to do it. I personally don't think it's your problem, but that is only my opinion.

what else do you think it could be? my car does idle high at about 16-18 thousand RPM the first time it's started in the morning after a night. also, my mechanic has replaced th o2 sensor in bank 1 sensor 1 but i do not believe he replaced the one in bank 2 sensor 1. could that be it?

thanks much.

Hi everyone,

I just visited www.BenzWorld.org and I cannot be more glad I own a Lexus instead of a Mercedes!

I have had the CEL come on quite a few times for the same problem, P0125 or insufficient engine coolant temp. So, I have had my O2 sensors replaced (did not fix it), then my engine coolant temperature sensor replaced (did not fix it either) and now I have narrowed it down (hopefully correctly) to the thermostat as this code pops up only when the outside temperature is in the 80's to 90's. I will hopefully have it changed this weekend if possible.

There are also small little problems like the steering wheel seems loose when I drive over a long patch of uneven road, the clicking of my brakes, and the thumping noise from the front end of my suspension that no one can diagnose (as none of the suspension components are loose.) But these are nothing compared to what some Merc owners have gone through.

After having read about the issues Mercedes owners have had, I consider myself pretty lucky for not getting the E-class. Those cars do not even seem driveable. Just on the first page of the S-class (the E-class has many of the same problems) forum I have read about control arms having to be replaced 5 times within 15,000 miles; steering pumps bursting and gushing fluid twice within 6 days; all sorts of little motors going awry; head gaskets leaking at 50,000 miles; rust all over the car; and Mercedes not wanting to help the owners at all! Incredible is it not?

I have put about 30,000 miles on my 1999 GS300 now within one year and have been pretty problem free. Hopefully this will continue for the rest of its life! Thank goodness for my reliable chap, the GS300, to bring me the 100 mile round trip to and from work every day!

I just wanted to let you guys know what I was thinking. Also, I must say I really appreciate how so many people on this forum are so inclined to offer their advice and help! Thanks LOC and all of its contributing members!!!

:) ;)

This was a concern of mine when I bought my car back in 2004.

He is right, its the design of the car. Dont know exact technical answer but search the forums and you will find it. Again nothing to worry about

hey everyone,

thanks so much for the replies... they are greatly appreciated! now i have one less worry about the car. the only thing i really need to get done now is the dent caused by the hit and run in the back quarter panel and the thermostat replacement.

:P

Here's the situation:

Every now and then I notice my GS300 downshifts when brake on the highway on a slight decline. It's very odd and happens only when I'm going around 60-65 miles per hour. Once I step on the brake the car downshifts and I feel a slight jerk as if the brakes just caught hard for a second. The car then stays in what I think is fourth gear as the rpms are above 3 thousand rmp while I'm going only 60-65 mph. The transmission downshifts once the brakes catch. It stays in fourth for a bit and it would suddenly upshift to fifth. If I push the gear shift lever left into the number '4' and then put it back into 'D' it would shift back up to 5th immediately, and the rpms go back to about 2,200.

This has been happening a bit more frequently as of late. Could this indicate a transmission problem??? And has anyone else experienced this?

First of all, Welcome and Congrats on the Lex! Now how many miles do you have on the vehicle? Sounds very unusual but if it's really rough, then it's not normal.

Btw, nice member # (27,777)

It has about 95K miles and I can feel a slight vibration. The reason I asked was that I used to own an LS400 with more miles and it was silky smooth.

the second gen GS series has the same problem that no one else seems to be able to resolve. i've tried seafoaming the throttle body, engine and gas tank to no avail. mine starting doing this at about 85K miles. let us know if you could fix it...

I have used the kits a few times and they work well.

waddup sk,

have you had any problems with the glue expanding and cracking the windshield more in the summer? when did you do the repairs in... in the summer or winter?

I'm sorry to see the damage to your GS. :( It's a little hard to see the damage on my computer, but from what I see, the rear bumper looks folded over on its edge, and the rear quarter panel seems to be fairly creased. If the bumper is folded over, then it would need to be replaced along with the chrome insert moulding. The quarter panel: hopefully it could be straightened and repainted. Cost for everything could easily be $2000 depending upon what needs to happen with the quarter panel (repair vs replace). If it needs to be replaced then you may be looking at around $2500-$3000 depending on the body shop labor rates where you live. (Those prices are based on Dallas labor rates of $38/hr, but it can vary state to state for body work).

Anyway, good luck with the repair! Make sure you get advice on where to go from your dealership, and/or friends who have had work done. The insurance company may want you to go somewhere that is better financially for them, but who may not necessarily do the best work.

Everyone,

Thanks so much for the advice/comments/sympathy. I will definitely talk with the dealer tomorrow about good body shops. Luckily I have full coverage and will only have to pay a $500 deductible.

Once I get a good estimate I will let you all know how things go. Look for updates to come.

The factory chrome piece for a 2001 thru 2005 is $19.42 MSRP. It will "likely" fit 1998 thru 2005.

how hard is the chrome piece to install? can the orginal black piece pop right off or would it involve removing a lot of the center console?

thanks...

My GS just got hit yesterday while it was parked outside of a tennis court. I don't know when it happened but when I went back to my car I saw a big dent on the rear, driver side quarter panel right by the bumper. I added a picture of the accident.

Do you guys think this will cost a lot to repair???

I never thought I would get into an accident with my GS... I've always been so careful. At least no one was hurt though.

Thanks...

Hi all,

I was just wondering if anyone has used one of those windshield repair kits for "star" cracks. I have a small star about the size of a penny on my windshield.... :(

How well do they work? I read on the JC Whitney site that they work fine but if you do the repair in the winter, the filler that is used will expand in the summer and crack your windshield even more. If anyone has any experience they could share, I would greatly appreciate it.

thanks...

i noticed today in the 100deg weather that my car was shifting sloppy and didnt wanna go in reverse.

now i was driving at an elevated rate compared to most, and i also noticed that: i was doing 40 in o/d and hit the switch to go into 3rd (drive) and my tach just dropped to idle for about 5 sec, then it felt like somthing caught and it went into gear.

and the i let it set for about 5 minutes started it up, threw it in revese and touched the gas and nothing happened, it just reved, then it felt like somthing went into place and it worked fine,

did i over heat my tranny?

i have noticed after a lot of shifting it doesnt like to instantly kick in reverse it hesitates.

also still have a poping the front right, i have changed the strutm ball joint allthe control arm bushings, i am thinking it is the sway bar endlink or bushing.

for the clicking noise see if the front caliper's pins need to be greased. i had the same problem and it turned out the clicking was due to rust forming on the pins...

I drive a 2002 GS300 with stock 16" wheels and tires. I want to upgrade to the stock 17" wheels and tires on the 2006 GS 300 (Dunlop SP Sport 2050 225/50R17). Can anyone tell me if these will fit without the need for any spacers of aftermarket parts without rubbing anywhere? Also, will the car handle any differently?

I also plan to use the old 16" wheels for snow tires - any recommendations on tires?

Thanks

not sure about the wheels but as for winter tires i had the Michelin ALPINA's last winter and they were great.

The tires' sidewalls are very soft but the tires hadgreat grip in the snow. I drove 50 miles home from Norwalk, CT on the Merritt Parkway in about 2-3 inches of snow during the winter storm and I did not slip unless I goosed it. They have great rain traction as well and were pretty quite.

Hi all,

I have a 1999 GS300 and the car idles rather high when I first start it in the morning after it has sat over night. The car idles at about 1700 RPM and then drops to about 1100-1200 after a minute or so.

Also, as of recent, my check engine light came on and the same code I've been having problems with emerged: P0125. My engine coolant temperature sensor has been changed as well as my oxygen sensor (Bank 1 Sensor 1, which was giving no reading on the OBDII scanner) as recommended by SK towards the end of the last summer. Changing my engine coolant temperature sensor had no affect on the CEL but changing the O2 sensor solved the problem.

Now that the code has resurface, it looks like I might have to replace my thermostat . My mechanic friend said that it could be because I have a thermostat rated at 190. So, I should change it to an all season rated thermostat of 180. Seeing how the two times the CEL came on with this code was in the heat of the summer, I believe the thermostat is the likely cause this time around. Changing the O2 sensor last time along with the cooling weather (due to the timing of when this was done) turned the CEL off. Now that it's getting hot, though, I think the thermostat is acting up again and must be replaced.

Let me know what you guys think. Is the thermostat the likely culprit? I appreciate any thoughts.

SK, this code sucks...

Here is the DTC definition for your convenience:

Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) p0125

DTC Definition: Clsd Loop Fuel Ctrl Insufficient Coolant Temp

I got this definition from http://www.actron.com/code_lookup.php, which was posted on a much earlier topic in this forum.

You definitely have a problem if you burn through rears faster.

You may have a blockage or in need of replacing the flex lines which may not be transferring the hydraulic pressure .

When did you bleed the brakes last?

Also make sure the pistons are lubed when doing the brakes as well as it may be sticking on the front.

i've never bled my brakes before and i've driven the car for over 30,000 miles. i will attempt to do that tom morning. how would a blockage in the rear brake lines cause the rear pads to wear faster? is it because the blockage is preventing the caliper from retracting?

thanks...

i will let all know how that goes tom...

Actually the OEM rotors are not painted but cadmium plated.

This coating is just a heat treated barrier from the iron/steel rusting. When you do see rust on OEM rotors it is because the brake dust has embedded itself onto the coating and that dust is actually rusting not the rotors.

You don't need deep grooves just a nice bevelled edge for the slotting which prevent banding on the pads surface. Too deep slots will degrade the structural integrity of the rotor. This will cause the rotors to succumb to heat easier and warp.

Brembo also coats there rotors as do some aftermarket companies. Painting them is a band aid solution that never looks or lasts as well.

thanks for the clarification SK. so, is the reason why so many reviews on TireRack.com about the Brembo rotors rusting due not to Brembo not coating the rotors but due to the brake dust rusting on the rotors surface?

i'm going to check my rotor's thickness tomorrow morning and will order the Brembo replacements if i need to.

also, it seems that my rear brake pads wear much, much faster than the front. i don't believe that is normal as most of the brake force is on the front calipers and rotors. SK, what could be causing this?

I believe tha all rotors will rust over time. The Brembos are a lot less money than the OEM, but iron is iron; provided it is machined acurately and finished well. I would stay with the regular smoothies if it was up to me. I've used all kinds on many cars and have yet to see a reason to slot, drill, or otherwise *BLEEP*ize a plain old rotor for "normal" applications.

The only problem I have had with aftermarket rotors was on the rear. There is a groove on the backside of the rotor that fits around the plate surrounding the parking brake components. I've gotten aftermarket rotors (not Brembo) where the groove wasn't deep enough and rubbed on this plate.

yea i agree with you... i wasn't about to get cross drilled or slotted... i was looking into getting Brembo OEM replacements. after reading your post though i am wondering if brembo makes the groove for the rear rotors deep enough. i will be sure to call brembo before ordering...

thanks for the input.

Hey all,

I am looking into replacing my worn rotors and have heard that Lexus coats the hub (the middle of the rotor, not the braking surface) with a rustproof layer of paint. I was wondering if this is true as I am debating whether I should buy OEM or buy the Brembo rotors.

I already have the PBR Ultimate (ceramic) brake pads on.

Also, has anyone used Brembo rotors before? If so, is there a significant difference between that and OEM?

Please let me know. Any comments, experiences will be greatly appreciated.

I am looking into buying a set of OEM 2004 5 spoke 16 inch GS rims but I still have a set of A/S and winter tires sized 215/60/16. Would those tires fit on the 2004 rims as those come with 225/55/16 tires?

Right now I have the 1999 OEM 5 spoke 16 inch rims with the wider spokes. I think the thinner spokes of the 2004 rims look better...

Thanks for all your replies in advance.

Just curious to see what kinda mileage you are all getting...Ive been averaging anout 23 and thats getting 92-93 octane - I didnt fill it with 87 once and didnt notice any difference driving wise or MPG wise - which I thought was odd. Its very flat here in indiana and its a pretty good mix of city-hwy driving.

Not sure if their is anything I can do to increase my gas mileage ?

Anyone put a CAI in their lexus - wondering how much boost that will give me and if it helps out gas mileage?

TIA

Ross

i've been getting 20-23 on the highway and anywhere from 15 - 20 driving city... the city gas mileage sucks... i've been checking the miles per gallon every other tankful for the last six months or so now...

Just wanted to know if it's possible to repair light curb rash??? I am thinking about buying a set of OEM lexus wheels that have road rash on two of the rims....

Yes, they are interchangeable. Just twist off, and twist on. But don't buy it from the dealer. It's about $100 from the dealer, there are alot of companies that sell aftermarket knockoffs.

i haven't seen any knock offs at all. can you tell me where i could get one? thanks.