sha4000

I would be looking at the IAC and the throttle body cleanings. Those are the things that can change the idle the most unless yoyr timing is out of wack. Did you scrape the carbon build up with a screw driver out of the TB?

You would have to either buy stiffer shocks and pair then with some lowering springs or just buy a set of coilovers.

Thanks landar I figured the first gen would be slightly different but I could not find a diagram with my quick search before I went out the door.

Yes plz drive the car more if possible. Try to get it on the highway to push the rpms some but pay close attention and be careful. 950 rpms is too high when in drive with your foot on the brake. This tells me that the computer is compensating for some type of lean condition. The car has to be driven a certain amount of time for it to generate a code.

It's actually called a shock. It's part# 48510/48520 On the right side of the diagram. You can reuse the top hats ( what you call strut mount bushings) if they are in good condition but I would just replace those also so you don't have to do the same work twice. They are part#48680 in the diagram. The diagram shows the front shock assembly for a different year so the part #s will be different for your year. It's just to give you an ideal of the parts you will need. By the way part #48674 are what's called the strut rod bushing. http://www.lexussouthatlantaparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=789323&ukey_make=1082&ukey_model=15669&ukey_category=21754&ukey_driveLine=8081&ukey_trimLevel=19107

Have you thought about pulling the ECU and doing the caps? I would think the check engine light would come on at some point.

If I remember correctly those early gen MAF can't be cleaned. I'm not even sure it's called a MAF it's called a AFM which the file that landar linked states.

Car was revving like this before I cleaned my MAF. In drive with foot on the brake it would surge sometimes but not as extreme as your case. After cleaning the MAF and cleaning my battery cable and posts it cleared up.

Can't you put a mirror back there to check.

That's just sad. Time to get creative.

I would just pull ALL that old tape off so there's no chance of it falling in there. That's what i did after the fact. Little pieces if tape kept failing in and I had to use needle nose pliers to get the little pieces out. When I put it back together I just peeled ALL the old tape and put new tape plus slid those wire protector things over them. I forget the exact name. I wold also try to bend the brackets back some to give more clearance.

Why do you say no FIPG landar. In the manual for my 98 it clearly states to remove all the old FIPG and place seal packing to certain places on the front bearing cap. The FIPG was the reason it was so hard to break loose. I just assume that the 90 procedure would be no different even though I don't have the manual for a 90.

After I did the cams seals on my car and started putting things back together I over torqued one of the cam pulley bolts and snapped it off. I had to remove the front bearing cap again so I could access the back of the bolt to get it out. The FIPG had not fully cured yet. Afterwards I just put the bearing cap back on and have had no ill effects since.

My AC takes a lil while to really cool on hot days but maybe you have other problems if you had to recharge it yourself.

If you have the know-how I would say do it yourself and use the extra $700 for something else. I would of flushed the anti-freeze while they were in there if it had not been done already.

Never heard of that happening but an interesting topic nonetheless.

Not cheap, $550 at Lexus. What alternative do you have. Photo attached.Lexus Driver Mirror a.JPG http://www.ebay.com/itm/97-01-Lexus-ES300-Camry-Heated-Driver-or-Passenger-Side-Mirror-Your-Chioce-/231571724696 Or go to a junkyard.

I did not know that landar.

I have no ideal what would cause the mirror to peel but A replacement is easy and cheap enough that I would not even try to figure it out.

It's a 300.

From the language in the program procedure I doubt that it would knock out the master key. It seems it would only knock out the first key registered after the master. 1998 LS400 key programming.pdf

You have to remove the vent cover to expose the amp.

I really doubt that he is still watching this thread. The last post was 7 years years ago. Besides there is plenty of info out there about the Megans.

I would not spend 8-9k when I can get a newer car with updated tech for a couple grand more, maybe a 430.

The 200k guy has a 350 which I purchased recently for my wife. I was originally looking at the 300 but was bothered by threads like this one. Granted not all of the had the issue but I read enough stories to stop me from taking the chance. here's one thread but if you google I'm sure others will come up. Just make sure before you buy. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-third-generation/760395-2006-gs-300-eating-oil.html http://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-third-generation/731478-my-engine-rebuild-for-free.html