sha4000

I would have linked to your tutorial landar but I was not sure if the 97 timing marks were the same as our 98 and he has 97 in his profile.

This one should work for you. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zMFx6ByauFM

I never liked the look of the SC model.

This has been disputed many times already. Just two threads with some links. I'm don't know who is correct but I would err on the side of caution. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-1st-and-2nd-gen-1990-2000/442048-according-to-gates-95-97-ls400-s-are-not-interference-engines.html http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/72220-am-i-just-being-paranoid/page-3

Good job on retracing your steps. This happens to me sometimes that's why I try to take pics before disassembly.

Is the pulley jiggling or the bracket?

Well what was wrong?

Good job but was it hard to break the nuts?

Your post is hard to understand.

Your link did not work for me Paul https://techinfo.toyota.com/techInfoPortal/appmanager/t3/ti?_nfpb=true&_pageLabel=ti_home_page&SMENC=ISO-8859-1&SMLOCALE=US-EN&SMAUTHREASON=0&SMAGENTNAME=%24SM%24mT%252bGLraBu9CwUVnZg4mEDzB2kysT90hgbwsWgdZzNOc%253d&TARGET=%24SM%24https%3A%2F%2Ftechinfo.toyota.com%2F

Is it completely torn? Maybe you can fix it with some JB weld. Otherwise look in the junkyard or pay the price from one of the online Lexus dealers or Ebay.

Good work and welcome to the club.

How was the car running before the starter went out? Was it displaying this same behavior?

The harness goes underneath the carpet below the glove compartment.

How do the connectors look? Is there any corrosion on them? Do the other windows besides the driver window do the same thing? Have you checked the window rails to see if they need to be lubed? Lots of times it's the master switch that has built up some corrosion. Try lubing the rails first though.

Thanks landar I was hoping that you would respond. I got it done but it was not as simple as you think. I thought it would be that's why I was a lil frustrated and made this thread. The process is below. When I made this thread I kind of figured that I would not get many responses but I was in a rush and I did not think the process through.I took a lil time to think it through and got the work done. I searched the forum and google and did not find any info on just changing the tensioner out by itself. I removed it before but that was in the process of changing the timing belt.I thought I would be able to change it without repeating some of those steps but it was not going to happen Let me state that this is for the 98-00 LS. It should be similar for the 95-97 but I'm not sure. I read some posts that on the first gen that you could just remove the 2 nuts and the 1 bolt and just slide it off but that does not apply to the 98-00 model. On the 98-00 you must remove the power steering pulley to have enough room to unbolt the 1 nut and 1 bolt to slide the A/C compressor forward and to the side since the tensioner sits on the same top stud in back of the compressor. You must remove the passenger side timing belt cover and use some creative wiggling to get it off.You also have to remove the timing belt dust cover underneath the thermostat housing and wiggle that out of the way. I found it easier to remove the idler pulley to get that dust cover off. After that you can remove the 2 nuts and 1 bolt and slide the tensioner off and up through the fan blades. The new OEM tensioner is a different design than the old tensioner. The pulley is also smaller on the new tensioner. My car was squealing upon cold startup and I originally bought a new belt but the squeal was still present so I figured it was either the idler or tensioner pulley since both bearings were shot. I pressed the tensioner bearing out with a 22mm socket and rubber mallet and that helped some but the noise was still present but I noticed that if I moved the pulley slightly to the right that the noise went away. This convinced me that the tensioner itself was bad.I found one on Ebay for $42 shipped and for now the noise is gone. I have not had a chance to drive the car so I'll see how it goes in a couple of days. I still have to either change the bearing in the idler or buy a new one. I updated my thread so if anyone else searches this in the future they will have a clear answer on how to change out the tensioner for a 98-00 LS.

The question is why did the fuse blow?

Hello community, I have a question concerning the removal of the tensioner. Even Mods need help sometimes. I can't remember if the power steering pulley has to be removed to get tensioner off. In my mind I Know there is no way to slide the A/C compressor forward with the pulley in the way. Has anyone removed the tensioner on a 98-00 model without doing any other maintenance? What's the easiest way to do this?

Glad you got it figured out. If I may ask, what is the purpose of you removing this part/

If it was manufactured in late 97 it would be a 98 model year car and not a 97. Besides there has been much debate on whether or not ALL gen 2 cars 95-00 are interference engines.

What year is your car? You may want to read these threads. Good luck. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-1st-and-2nd-gen-1990-2000/690097-power-tilt-away-repair-how-to-tutorial.html http://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-1st-gen-1992-2000/49783-tilt-steering-repair.html

And figure out where that buzzing sound is coming from,I bet that's the key to figuring this out.

You sure that cam plug is sitting flush? What about the throttle body? Make sure the bolts are all torqued properly.

Your right to be wary of a mechanic if you don't trust him fully. Especially with OBD1 cars. Most are lost if they can't see a check engine light and can't plug a diagnostic tool up IMO. just keep at it and don't get discouraged.

You seem to be real thorough with all your repairs. Sometimes those lil micro scratches can cause problems, that's why I asked. I'm somewhat stumped right now since your vouching for all the usual suspects. IACV, TPS, no leaks......