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Edaphos

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Edaphos last won the day on September 13 2019

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  • First Name
    Wayne

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  • Lexus Model
    ES300
  • Lexus Year
    2000

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  1. I hope that you are still following this post. I recently spent a winter in Minnesota where evening temperatures occasionally fell below -30F. I had the same problem that you described, exceptionally high RPM before shifting - versus good shifting under normal sunny summer day conditions. First, my 2000 Lexus ES300 has about 180000 miles on the OD, only drained transmission oil when changing CV axles, so my transmission fluids were never completely changed (owner's manual recommends changing after 150000 miles if exceptional/under heavy use - e.g., heavy loads on long trips, only city stop/go driving, etc.). My observations. Given the age of my car and the miles on the OD, I decided try Lucas Automatic Transmission Fluid for high mileage cars. I did notice a difference - smoother shifting, better mileage (went from about 18 to 21 MPG city driving, and from 29 to 31 MPG highway. I was happy. Then I drove from Texas to Minnesota. This is where I found that the high viscosity Lucas lubricant really had a negative impact - when temperatures fell below about 10F. I learned through trial and error that warming up my car in the driveway for over thirty minutes was necessary to drive two miles (yes, I am an idiot) to drop my wife at work - necessary in order to warm the transmission so that it could shift from gear to gear in a more normal manner. After winter passed, I found that the old transmission may have suffered some damage (after 4 months of short trips in freezing weather and two 1200 mile trips in below zero temperatures). I opted to have the transmission flushed. About 150 miles after the flush, I noticed a slight stutter when shifting from 2nd to 3rd and driving up a slight incline. Being a fan of proven liquid mechanics, I added six ounces of LubeGuard (red box). This product appeared to resolve the stutter, and improved shift points back to a good state. While diagnosing and reading about all of this, I found a website that provides performance specifications (and more) for many cars including my year/make/model. I compared MPH/RPM data from my car to the MPH/RPM specs provided at the website and found a near exact match. So, despite the harsh diving conditions that I imposed on my car, it apparently survived. In any event, I have decided to flush the transmission fluid one more time, and yes I will probably have to add a high-mileage additive again. And by the way, I also perform nearly all of the repairs on my car in my garage, e.g., replaced entire suspension, timing belt/water pump, valve cover gaskets, spark plugs, fuel injectors, brakes, etc. - where the most difficult challenge for me so far was changing the high pressure power steering line, just excruciatingly tedious - but very doable. Next tasks are rack and pinion, and motor/transmission mounts. All good. I hope that you worked out your transmission issues without having to pay too much for professional help - WHT
  2. Check the alternator. This is an indication that your alternator mat not be charging properly. I assume that this occurs when the engine is hot, with lights and ac both on. I have had this problem. My mechanic sort of gave up calling it an age issue, and recommended replacing the 80amp alternator with a 100amp ... Seems to have resolved my problem (same as yours)
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