NWFLS400

Kennyr - I appreaciate your opinion and wander myself, although I had an issue with an old nova that I bought, ran a bunch of marval's mistry oil to clean it up and ended up with a knocking noise (many moons ago as a teenager) Never the less the idea was to change the fluid and filter every 5 or 10 thousand miles several times, then do a flush, but may be a waste of time. But will insure that I have Toyota flush it this time. I usually do most of my own work, but have always had pickups usually and can not get used to working on the bottom side of this thing, next garage will get a pit to work in... :D nc211 - Thanks for the reply. The syptom is similar to what gennadiy008@yahoo.ca stated in a reply, but mine really does not make any noise when it does it. The situation is difficult, as right now it does not do it very often, yet most of my driving is hwy - I drive about 140 miles round trip to work :o gas prices - :cries: Either way it does not seem to matter what the speed is or what the grade of the road is. As long as you are moving forward with power or you are accelerating or complete declerating without your foot on the pedal it never does it. It only happens in the transition between adding power and taking it away. Which is why it seems to happen when I think I am going to accelerate, but the light changes or someone hits there brakes, so I go from adding power to accelerate to quickly taking it back off to apply brake. Hope this helps explain it better, but either way I am going to have it flushed by Toyota and take it to a guy I know that has a scanner and go from there. I don't think the trouble for the engine light has anything to do with (as I have driven it 20k miles and the issue with the tranny has been there since I bought it and the engine light is a recent issue) also the flush will probably not do anything but it needs it anyway, plus I do not want to have a compounded issue. gennadiy008@yahoo.ca - The only thing I have noticed when coming to a stop sign is that if the A/C is on, sometimes the idle kicks up just as it is going into 1st gear, so as you apply even brake pressure it feels like it wants to take off again. Nothing major, but it is noticable. Any further information or sharing of experiences would be great. Thanks

Thanks for the info - I guess I was trying to cheap out by not paying for the code retrieval, but if it doesn't fix it then I am in the same position. thanks

I have about 148k miles on my 95 LS400, the check engine light came on at about 140k, went out at about 142k and came back on at about 145k. I have not notice any performance changes what so ever. Is this most likely an Oxygen sensor, if so has anyone used the aftermarket ones that you have to re-wire. So they work ok? I am uncertain of enything about the car prior to last spring when it had 125k on it, so not sure when it was last changed. I did do a basic tune up when I purchased it. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Charles

I searched a bit and was not able to find this issues discussed so far. This is a bit difficult to explain, but what I think it is doing is when you let off the accelerator, it immediatley downshifts, rather than letting the transmission coast in the higher gear. Not sure that is what it is really doing, but it feels like it is falling on it's face for a split second or hesitating, but it is coming from the tranny and not the engine. It is worse if the ECT button is set to normal, but does it either way. It also seems to it mainly when you go to give it gas, but then light turns or something and you let back off all in the same 2 seconds or if you let off too quickly. Not real consistent, but enough that I want to eliviate the issue. I do not have a lot of history on the car, it had 125k when I bought it last spring, I now have about 148k on it, I have had the tranny fluid changed by a regoinal high class tranny place, but not a dealer. I did not want to do a flush, since I was not aware of the last change and I know that it may cause more of an issue, lets say of the last owner had never changed it in the 1st 125k. I did notice that someone had posted that the tranny's like Toyota fluid, how different is it really from a high grade aftermarket? Maybe it is, just wanted to get some more opinions. A person I did have test drive it for me thought that either the EMC for the tranny (which I think is shared with the engine?) may need to be replaced or maybe needs a flash update to the firmware. Any help or advice would be appreciated. Charles

The 1st thing I check was to make sure it was not locked and that there was not a sequence that I had to follow - ie.. key in or out of ignition etc... I will investigate the wiring harness and see if I can find anything. Thanks for the reply.

Thanks for the replies. You are probably right, if the book says it is ok, then it probably been tested under those conditions. It is kept in a garage that is heated, so it never see below 50 deg, expect when I leave work to come home. At a minimum I usual wait for the 1st rpm decline 1900 down to 1500, that only takes about 30 seconds. Thanks again -

I have read through numerous threads on the characteritics of the LS400 idle control. My question is related to going into Reverse or Drive when it is still as high idle when cold (1500 rpm - after it has slowed a bit from its initial 1900 rpm - about 15 seconds). I have only owned 2 automatics compared to about 15 standards, so I am not positve of the ramifications, but it does not seem that it would be healthy for the tranny or the rear end. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks Charles

The front trunk release button does not work, yet the key and remote work fine. Is there a typical issue that Lexus has with that lever or it's circuitry? If not, I will troubleshoot, but thought I would check to see if others have had the same problem and what the issue had been. Thanks for any information that you can provide to me.