Paul Cook

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Paul Cook last won the day on August 30 2018

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About Paul Cook

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    Paul

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  • Lexus Model
    LS400, 2002 SC430
  • Lexus Year
    1997
  • Location
    California (CA)

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  1. Just by chance, is the red light on the fob on continuous? My initial guess is that one of the buttons is stuck continuously. Lots of ways that can be wrong because if it was then the stuck button feature would most likely activate when you get close to the car. I get the impression that is not an issue. I doubt its a battery issue because you have gone through so many. Do you have a second fob? If so try it. I have never heard of an "immobilizer" issue that could cause such an issue, but if more that one fob is affected you might have to conclude that your issue is external. My long shot guess is that you have some trash in the fob causing a power short inside. But again, I doubt that because you would have addressed that after changing the battery a couple of times or the fob would just would quit working altogether. And lastly, if you keep your keys in your pocket or purse(?), could it be causing the fob to activate. Im just trying to hit all the possibilities. Most likely is that you just have a defective fob. Let us know if you find out something that would help others. Paul
  2. Is anyone providing repair services for the audio and nav motorized door assembly? I am waiting to install my replacement Mark Levinson stereo because I dont want to have to pull it back out again. Thanks for any assist. Psul
  3. OK. I'm pretty famous around my household for saying I usually screw up everything the first time I do it. And my power antenna for my 02 SC430 is no exception. I had to take it apart to get the broken cable out and made the mistake of getting curious. So I pulled out the gears. That was my first mistake. Second was pulling the motor. That was the final mistake because the motor is not self contained. The brushes popped out and to make a long story shorter, it was effectively destroyed. Now I said that was my final mistake. Well really, my final mistake was throwing the actual power antenna away out of disgust that Toyota/Lexus Engineers who would make such a stupid design. I kept the antenna switch assy which was good. But without the antenna motor, I was unable to blank off the hole in the fender. So, what I "really" want is the Aluminum pipe that goes through the fender since I have already mounted an amplified antenna to replace the Lexus $700+ stock power antenna. Anybody know of one available? Thanks. Below is a pic of the amplified antenna I mounted in the middle of the short glass to replace the stock unit. Sorry about the quality of the night time picture. Best I could do to get this out. Total cost of the new antenna was something like $33.00 and takes about 2 hours if you have never done it before.
  4. I dont buy new cars. Why? They are ridiculously expensive here in California due to high taxes, high registration fees and high insurance cost. And then top it off with the fact that I seem to put close to 30,000 miles on a car in a single year, and you get the point. So, I buy quality used cars with good maintenance history records from private sellers who dont know all the tricks that maybe a less scrupulous dealer might know. My latest is a low mileage 2002 SC430. Beautiful car. But as with all older cars there is always something. Today it was my roof not retracting. Its an intermittent problem too which makes it worse because you know it will never fail for the dealer. But, I own an iCarsoft i905 Multi-System Scanner and it has all the features I needed for this car to let me know that I have a B2502 DTC and that code says that I have an open in Roof Drive Motor RH Circuit. The hard top system has no less than ten individual motors, three ECU's, twelve switches and all of this has to work flawlessly. Troubleshooting a single problem like this becomes prohibitively expensive very quickly. But if you have your own scanner that has the right software for your car, problems like these suddenly become not so terrifying. Is my B2502 going to be a problem to fix? Yes, I'm sure it will have its challenges. But without a scanner, I wouldn't even know where to start or what to tell my mechanic. Think about it and then buy yourself one. It doesn't have to be the i905, its just what I own. But it should definately be a tool in your box. Paul
  5. For the electrical types out here I have a question. Where is the switch unit that is mounted to the steering wheel, that you use to change radio modes i.e. AM, FM1, FM2, and volume, located in the electrical schematics of the "2002 Electrical Wiring Diagram" manual? My audio door does not work and while looking at the plug itself, I have two extra wires (W/G and G) that come in on pins 1 and 5 that are not shown in the manual for plug A25. The other wires are correctly identified as coming into the "Audio Door Control SW". I have looked high and low for where those two wires come from with no success and have made an assumption that maybe they are coming from the modulator switch on the steering wheel. But I cannot locate that switch in the schematics. Of course. Lexus manuals have always left me wanting for something that resembles accuracy. Any help is always appreciated.
  6. Did you ever get this problem sorted out? The reason I ask is because I had a similar experience this morning except I was opening my top. The top folded in normally but then the rear deck and trunk sequence that was supposed to activate back to the down position just stopped with the trunk lid still open and the deck lid still in the up position. Tried resetting everything also. Ended up lifting the hard top on the corners a couple of inches while it was packed in the trunk and then it closed completely and opened again with no further issues. So I was just curious if you had any luck. Paul
  7. Thats funny because that is the same bulb on their website that was called out in the Sylvania guide in the store. I did find a pair of Sylvania bulbs with the number P/N "57" which work but are only 3.5W. And even though they are half the wattage called for, I kind of like the soft yellow glow instead of the brighter, harsher white of the original (?) Bulbs. Just more SC strangeness I guess. Thanks for the assist though. Paul
  8. Anyone have a good P/N for these bulbs. Owners manual just calls it a type F (single end bulbs) that is 8 watts. The one that came out is indeed a 12V 8W bulb but no joy at my local auto parts store. The guy at the counter said he didnt even have one listed in their computer. In my manual, its listed on page 336 with no bulb number so here we are. Thanks for any assist. Paul
  9. Can't sleep so may as well continue my research. Looking at all of the available used OEM Mark Levinson units I can locate on ebay, this is what I find. Units have a different P/N depending on year manufactured with some mixing towards the end of the calendar year. In at least one case I found that happened which kind of makes sense since next years models start hitting around October I think. You could probably get similar info from Lexus Parts but I haven't gone there yet. Year MFR P/N 2001-2002 86120-24390 2003-2004 86120-24391 2005-2007 86120-24392 And they also have a second identifier I decided to call a SUB P/N that changes in 2005 from FX-MG8217 "ZT" to "ZT-03" that applies through 2007 which is the latest year manufactured that I found so far. YEAR SUB P/N P CODE 2001 FX-MG8217 ZT P6813 2002 FX-MG8217 ZT P6813 2003 FX-MG8217 ZT P6832 2004 FX-MG8217 ZT P6832 2005 FX-MG8217 ZT-03 P6846 2006 FX-MG8217 ZT-03 P6846 2007 FX-MG8217 ZT-03 P6846 So, my best guess is that "I" am looking for a head unit with P/N 86120-24390 and P Code of P6813 for my 2002 SC430. Will one of the others work? No clue. But I cant spend several hundred dollars to find out even though I would like to get the newest unit I can for wear and tear reasons. Why the P/Ns changed is most likely due to electronic/software updates and possibly even specific features for a specific car. But that's just a guess. Hope this helps others or others can even add to this as new information becomes available. Paul
  10. The only information I have found that is probably note worthy in the aftermarket is the two different P/N's for the Beat-Sonic harness adapter, P/N MVA-12L applies to the 2002-2004 years. MVA-13L applies to 2005 to 2009. So something changed in 05 that will affect my choice in replacement M.L. units. But I am interested in checking out the Toyota Tech Info website. Could you post a link at your convenience Please. I'm sure it would be handy for my 97 LS400 also. Thanks. Paul
  11. Just left my local Lexus Dealer for as much information as I could get on replacing a unit with a like unit. The service department rep said I would need the same "P" number as the original unit. AND the ability of the replacement to work without a code was a crap shoot depending on if the replacement unit was properly pulled. If it was, then plug and play is the order of the day. (Although the next time it needs resetting, you are probably out of luck again) But I also have no idea what "properly pulled" actually means. They stated that there is no service bulletin relating to this subject. So, disconnect the battery before actually pulling plugs? They also stated that if the unit was locked, they would need the VIN of the original vehicle and I imagine proof of purchase so the dealer could then call Mark Levinson and after verification that they were a dealer, Mark Levinson would then provide a code to unlock the replacement unit. At a cost of $149.00. Replacement cost of a like unit goes up again. I'll update when I have something else to contribute on this subject. Paul
  12. Thanks for the response. And even though my window sticker says the vehicle is equipped with an "Audio Theft Deterent Design", the owners manual says nothing about what happens if the battery is disconnected or you have to remove the head unit as is my case. (Error 3) Talked to the dealership over the phone and the person I talked to stated that the is a Code number on the unit that starts with a P. And on the front of the Tape Deck door there is a number. P6813. The person stated that he thinks that is the number he was told about. And that any replacement unit would need the original VIN from the vehicle it was removed from as well as the P code. My unit was made in May 2002. I have seen other units on ebay from other years that have a different "P" number on the tape door. Is there anyone else who has replaced or even have had to have their original unit recoded? Lexus isn't the most helpful when dealing with their out of warranty vehicles sometimes. Thanks. Paul
  13. So, I didn't really want to go the whole route of a $400.00 Beat Sonic adaptive wiring harness plus new installation cost of an after market stereo. The Mark Levinson that came stock is good enough. I could use a little more wattage but wants versus needs etc. My problem is my OEM unit has a broken ribbon cable inside the face plate. This makes the unit unusable. I can get a complete used unit from ebay for less than the adaptive harness and just keep on rolling. Now comes the question, do I need the "replacement units", "original" security code to even make it work? I doubt if the code (if there actually is one) assigned in the theft deterent system to my original unit will work unless it is stored in an ECU outside of the stereo unit. So, what say all? How difficult is it to make a same but different Mark Levinson stereo work if that is the route I wish to go? Thanks in advance for any assistance. Paul
  14. ARRRHHH! Knew I couldn't get so lucky. 02 430. My antenna cable broke off inside too. The AM plus DISC trick (see above) works though. But since my mast cable is broken, I had to remove and take apart the power antenna to get the remaining broken cable out. Sticky, black, waterproof gunk around the seal gets everywhere. Got the old mast cable out and reassembled the power antenna without installing the new mast because that is basically impossible to do since the gear inside cannot be turn by hand. Now, when I turn my key back to lock, the antenna mast retracts but the motor doesn't stop so it just sits there and grinds for about 15 seconds once the Antenna mast hits the bottom. (Seems like forever.) When it does finally stop, I turn on the key again normally without using the mast hyper-extension trick and it extends normally. It just wont retract normally. Probably a limit switch in there that isn't turning off when it should. Checked Lexus Parts and Ebay. The cheapest OEM Power Antenna replacement is like $390.00. Lexus parts are over $420.00. Talk about bumbed right now. I know there must be something I am missing. Lesson learned here is that if you just toast your antenna at the car wash, you might be OK with just replacing the mast without all of the rear trunk disassembly, etc. Otherwise, if you have Lexus do it, you are probably looking at about $800.00+ if they say that they have to replace the entire Power Antenna. If I figure out why it is not stopping at the bottom of travel, I'll update this post. Paul
  15. Well Peggy. I know this has been sitting here for a long time now and I'm not going to be much help because the Owners Manual just states to take in for repair. I have an 02 that JUST started flagging this. These are "my" symptoms. My VSC (Vehicle Skid Control) clears when I turn the car off. Then when I start the car it remains off "until" I put it in gear and actually start rolling. If Im in gear but sitting stationary with the brake on, it doesn't light up on the dash. But the second the car starts rolling, it comes on. I cleared a DTC C=1336 code which equates to a "Zero Point Calibration of Deceleration Sensor Undone." Since it just came on within the last 24 hours, I have not had a chance to delve deeper on this issue. Like I said, not much help but if you have any info it would be great to hear back. Good Luck. Paul