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parkerd

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Everything posted by parkerd

  1. Thank you. However, my setup does not have that dust boot (plug) in an open hole in the casting. In my case it is a blind hole, the hole that receives the Cylinder Slide Pin does not go all the way through. The Cylinder Assembly was frozen when I got to it, it did not rotate freely on the Cylinder Slide Pin. It was probably not greased from the factory. From the comments of others here, it seems quality control broke down, bad report for otherwise premier Lexus quality. The solution was a five pound hammer and punch. 1. Remove the brake assembly - the two mounting bolts with the 14mm head. 2. Remove the brake rotor 3. Reinstall the brake assembly - bolts tight, don't exceed 45 ft-lbs. torque. 4. Position the punch just over the dust boot seal lip on the Cylinder Assembly, as close to the frozen Cylinder Slide Pin as you can get. The hit will not be ideal, it is impossible to get a straight shot at it, but as close to parallel with the Cylinder Slide Pin as you can get is good enough. 5. Using the heavy punch and small sledge hammer, knock the Brake Cylinder Assy. off the Cylinder Slide Pin. It will not come off gracefully, you will have to fight for every fraction of an inch, but take care not to damage the seal lip, but in about ten hits it should be off the pin! 6. Once off, remove the Dust Boot. 7. With a spiral wire brush, drill, and brake cleaner, clean rust from the hole. 8. Using a wire wheel (preferable and a lot faster) knock all the rust - right back to bright metal or conversion coating) from the Cylinder Slide Pin (both of my pins were loose and unscrewed by hand after I knocked the Cylinder Assy. off the Slide Pin; otherwise, use an 8mm or 5/16" Allen wrench to remove it). 9. Put grease (disk brake grease if you have it, wheel bearing grease if you don't) in the Slide Pin holes: I used a soda straw, pencil will work, smear the grease all around the walls of the hole. 10. Screw the cleaned Slide Pins back into the Disk Brake Cylinder Mounting and torque to 29 ft-lbs (look at the diagram above, Toyota/Lexus lists the bolt size and torque right next in the part callout, quality documentation unheard of among American manufacturers) 11. Remove the Brake Cylinder Mounting, install the Rotor, install the Brake Cylinder Mounting and torque the mounting bolts to 46 ft-lbs. 12. Clean all grease from your hands, change gloves, whatever - DO NOT ALLOW GREASE ON THE PADS OR THE ROTOR. 13. Reassemble the brakes. 13. Pump the brake pedal to ensure you have a firm pedal before you head out to enjoy your Lexus again! If you loosened a brake line or the bleed valve, you may need to bleed the system. At the very least you will have to pump the pistons into contact with the pads and the pads to the rotor. ( I always crack the bleed valve and catch the brake fluid when I press the brake piston back into the cylinder. This flushes the brake lines and master cylinder a little bit. If you flush the brake hydraulic system as I do, be sure to top off the brake reservoir too and if you screwed up and allowed air into a slave cylinder, you get to bleed it. Be nice to your wife and you will always have help pumping the brake pedal while you bleed the system). If I left anything out, you do that too. If you can stop safely, you have time to figure out how to get going again.
  2. The problem is that the Brake Cylinder Assembly will not slide off the Cylinder Slide Pin. I have exactly that same problem on a 2004 ES330. With the Brake Cylinder Assembly rotated up to clear the Brake Cylinder Mount, I used a zip gun on the Brake Cylinder Assembly right by the Cylinder Pin but the Brake Cylinder Assembly does not slide off. Same story on both sides. I want to clean and grease the Cylinder Slide Pin as well as the Cylinder Slide Bolt (Toyota calls this bolt a "Cylinder Slide Pin"). The brakes can't work if the Brake Cylinder Assembly does not slide freely on these two pins.
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