Maine92ES

Thanks for the replies, everyone. Here are some clarifying points and things I've learned since: - the plastic is cracked all the way through, there is no metal in that piece - it only effects the "guide slot", not the business part of the buckle that the strap loops around - I found an online price of $100 for new belts, sold only by the pair (not cheap in my book) - it's not unheard of for dealers to replace defective mandatory safety equipment But, now that I've thought a little harder about the physics of it, I agree that the "guide slot" is not important, safety-wise. If it were, it wouldn't be solid plastic! The way I figure, when the retractor locks, all three positions are held solid, with or without the guide slot. So what is it for? I can think of a couple minor reasons for it: it keeps the buckle from flopping around when not in use, it holds it at approximately the right position along the belt from use to use, and it keeps it in the right orientation for buckling up. But there's one other thing it does: it helps maintain tension in the lap portion of the belt. And that could be marginally safety-related. I feel safer now, but I still might replace it (them).

My '92 ES300 seat belt buckle has developed a crack in the plastic. I'm talking about the male piece that the belt loops through (see linked photo). And yes it's cracked all the way through. I'm not sure if it's unsafe; Prudence says to replace the whole thing. Wishful thinking: is this something the dealer would replace, pro bono, as a defective safety item? Has anyone else seen this? Tip: go look! I probably didn't notice it for a long time.

Hey joshy0077, how'd the CV axle job go? I'd like to hear how the job goes from a neophytes perspective, like myself.

Where did you get the bushings? Were they rubber? How much time did it take to remove and reinstall the control arm? Really curious, 'cause I need to do the same!

thats probably just a head rebuild. the valve seals arent seating properly until the car warms up. as they get warm they expand. cost about $400 per head to rebuild if you can remove and reinstall yourself. and if you want, rebuild kits can be had for around $150. so for $300 and some wrench time, you can have a like new motor again. i doubt piston rigns are your issue. it would do it with every shift of the tranny or every time you take your foot off the gas...usually. or it would just smoke all the time. EDIT: why are you in second gear in that pic? ← -- Like I mentioned, I wanted to redline it just because it was a special occasion. Yes, those needles have been replaced before. -- About the head rebuild: yes, I would consider it, if I hadn't heard stories about head rebuilds causing bigger problems with blowby. If you tighten up the top, the bottom gets stressed. Perhaps a compression check could be used to decide whether things would work out? Right now, I'm okay with it as it is. I use a remote starter for plausible deniability. The smoke has cleared by the time I get to the car. And really, it's just a puff of blue once or twice a day. cheers.

My '92 ES300 just rolled over 250K today(!). It runs great. (Note: I don't usually cruise at redline. This was a special occasion!) And here's the video: Video of 1992 ES rolling over 250K I'm sure there are ES300's out there with 300K+. In the last few years mine has gradually increased it's oil consumption to the tune of 1 qt/2000 miles. I believe this is mostly due to oil leakage through the valves as it cools down, which creates a puff of blue smoke at almost every cold start. There is _no_ sign of oil coming out the exhaust when running warm. Apart from wear-and-tear items I consider part of routine maintenance (CVs, timing belt, struts, brakes), the only mechanical parts it has needed are: valve cover gaskets, steering rack, and a radiator. Given that it's been driven a steady 18K per year for nearly 14 years, I'm amazed that it's never needed a wheel bearing, a starter, an alternator, any pump or other mechanical accessory. Apart from the blinking instrument cluster needles, the only electronic failures have been a power window switch panel and the CD player (it kept ejecting the magazine). I'd like to keep driving it until the oil consumption gets unreasonable and/or engine failure, at which point someone should swap in a good used powerplant - because the body is currently excellent, and the rest will doubtlessly still function. I doubt I'll have the interest in renewing it's life, since the form factor is becoming less and less of a fit with our family lifestyle. Rather a pity. But it has been, and continues to be, economical, comfortable, reliable luxury. It looks and drives like it's fuel comes from the fountain of youth!