cleverdick

Ed, Thanks for reply. The UK system of measuring octane is different to that in the US, so 'regular' in the US would equate to '95 octane' in the UK. I always use 'super unleaded (98 octane)', AKA 'supreme' in the US - it's the same thing even though there's a difference of 10 or so in the numerical value. (I once sent an email to Shell asking them to explain the difference in scientific terms, but they ignored my email.) In any case, leaner fuel would cause pinking (or pinging), not the other way round. I take on board your comments re. the wiring harness in the trunk; funnily enough I have prevented any problem with that before it has started by re-routing the cable so that it does not get damaged. However, I really don't think that's the issue here, it is definitely heat-related, as when I experienced the harsh shifting the auxiliary fan was running as well, as if it just couldn't cope with the heat. The a/c was on too, which also impairs the engine's cooling performance. I was thinking more in terms of an over-pressurized tranny or something like that. As I said, 99% of the time it's fine, it's just that in exceptionally hot and humid conditions it lacks its usual seamlessness. Fluid level in the box is maybe slightly high, up to the bead when very hot. But it takes such a small amount to show a big difference on the gauge that I wasn't too worried by this. Cheers, Rich

The last few days here (in UK) have been particularly hot and humid. My '90LS doesn't seem to cope too well in this kind of climate. When I have the air on, you can hear the engine pinking during acceleration. (I had a new radiator last year and Toyota red Forlife coolant but it's just as bad). Just as worrying is that the other day, after driving at quite high speed for about 20 minutes or so, the gearchanges became quite harsh and also causing a fierce jolt when selecting D from stationary. (Idle revs were normal). I've never had this problem before. Fluid is genuine Toyota TIV, which I completely renewed about 3 years ago, plus filter, according to the LexLS tutorial. It's still clear doesn't smell burnt. I have not had this problem since, but then the car hasn't got as hot since. So it looks as if there is no permanent damage. Interestingly, the later LSs have two cooling fans, mine (being an earlier model) only has one. Anyone else here got this problem?

My first thought would have been coil packs or ignition module, but that doesn't explain why it runs once started. If the fuel pump doesn't draw any current then it's looking more like a relay or perhaps a bad connector somewhere that you've missed. Sorry I can't be more helpful right now as I'm at work and the manual is at home! But somebody will be along shortly to help you out, that's for sure. Just hang in there. With all those things you've replaced it's definitely worth persisting with! No fault is undiagnosable. I had a Ford once that kept cutting out, almost to the point where I could accurately predict where it would do it. Nobody could find the cause, until I removed the fuel sender unit from the tank and found a secret filter that was clogged and blocking the pipe. This filter was not in any manual, even the 2-volume Ford dealer's book. (Toyota are better in this respect.) The point is, if you assume nothing you eventually will find it. Good luck... :P

Guys, This is another example of Toyota's meticulous attention to detail on the LS400. To maximise efficiency, the antenna trims itself to match the wavelength of the frequency tuned to. So, at 88MHz it will be at its longest and at 108MHz it will be at its shortest. (Higher frequency = shorter wavelength.) Let's face it, at car height you need every dBuV you can get for noise-free stereo reception!

I'm beginning to regret this already - there is an increase in noise, albeit slight. There's a lesson to be learned here I think, and one which I should know already. Would anyone on here have the part number for genuine Toyota SAE 90 as originally specified? (I'm expecting a struggle to get this if the T-IV was anything to go by) Thanks, Rich

Hi guys, Just replaced my diff oil with Redline 75W90. I haven't really noticed any improvement in how the car drives, and I was interested if anyone else on here has used Redline in their diff and what the effects were. I just hope I haven't done a bad thing! (Series 1, 1990)

Hi, Sorry to hear you still have the problem, but at least that's one possible cause you've eliminated. I would have been interested to see the filter - did you take any photos? How coarse or fine was the screen mesh (compared to something we all know)? It still might be worth cleaning out the throttle body if you've not already done that; look on lexls.com. Mine was very bad. Cleaning the TPS and doing a proper trans flush and filter change (as per the tutorial), using T-IV, fixed a slight hesitation on my car at around 45-50 m.p.h. But I really would appreciate a detailed description of that fuel filter and your opinion on how likely it would be to clog up. Thanks...

You might be on to something there... please let us know how it goes removing the pump from the tank. Other than that, I can only suggest the throttle body may need cleaning. Best of luck...

Hi, According to the book, you have to take the back seat out, then remove a cover to access the front of the tank. You then undo a plate and remove the pump which has the filter on it. I have not done this yet, but hope to in the near future. I'd be interested to hear from anyone who has completed this job successfully, what their total miles were and what condition their filter was in. My car is series 1, 1990.

Thanks for replies. Interesting about the filter funnel - I might try and get one. In the meantime, has anyone had a bad experience using Wynn's Dri Fuel (or similar) to dissipate any water in the tank? Would the moisture released into the fuel damage the external paper filter? If only manufacturers put drain plugs on fuel tanks, like on aircraft!

Has anyone on here ever had theirs replaced? How long should it last? Until I got the Lexus dealers' workshop manual, I thought that the external fuel filter canister was the only one. But these cars (series 1 anyhow) have a filter on the fuel pump in the tank as well. This is an issue for me, because on a previous car (not a Lexus) I had this 'secret' hidden filter clog up, cave in and block the pipe, causing my car to stall at high speed. The car had done about 100k miles. I just do not know why manufacturers put a filter in the tank that you can't get to. It's stupid design, plain and simple. You can replace the external filter as often as you like, but if you're experiencing running problems or loss of power, then it could well be the one on the fuel pump that's the problem. Especially if it's made of a very fine gauze (like the one on the Ford was). I'd certainly appreciate your comments on this.

Well, I guess my local Toyota dealer just screwed me. List was $7.67/qt discounted to $6.52/qt, $78.24 for a case. And I thought he was being a good guy by discounting the antifreeze from $29.43 to $18.99. glenmore 1990 LS400 2000 C280 1991 MBZ 300CE Hey! About a year ago, I paid £90 for 10l of T-IV, so I guess I got screwed too! You wouldn't believe the trouble I had convincing the Toyota dealer that this stuff existed. It seems they use Dexron all the time, which is worrying. Just think, you book your LS in for a trans fluid change and they put Dexron in it. 6 months later, new trans required! Main dealer servicing in the UK really sucks. Not just Toyota, but any make you care to mention. That is why you should do the work yourself if you can. I was happy to make a small donation to the lexls.com guy, because he has saved me a lot of money with his excellent online tutorials.

Congratulations on your purchase! These are pretty tough and enduring cars - more so than most - but as with any vehicle, regular maintenance is essential. The first thing to ensure is that the PAS pump isn't leaking onto the alternator - this is a common problem and can result in alternator failure if unchecked. Suspension bushes and the like are another weak point, causing creaks/clunks when steering or driving over bumps. If possible, get the car up on a hoist and have a good look underneath. When I bought it my car had a severely rusted brake pipe at the back, even though it had a full year's MoT! But don't worry too much, I was a little hasty in buying mine and didn't get one of the best examples. I reckon that by replacing all the fluids and filters (because you can't assume that the previous owner will have), then following a regular generic maintenance schedule thereafter, you'll have a car that will do another 193k easily. www.lexls.com has some brilliant illustrated tutorials which will show you how. Good luck!

Those are scary pics!!! But hey, you know what - after wrecking the button clips I sprayed some Kontakt 60 professional switch cleaner into each switch thinking I had nothing to lose, and after a few hours when (presumably) all the tarnish had dissolved, it suddenly all started working again! I really didn't expect this to happen as I would have guessed that the relay (if there was one) would be the weak point and would have pitted contacts due to the motor inductance. I was still faced with a broken (but functioning) switch, but I managed to repair it by inserting a sprung steel pin through it vertically to act as a pivot and it wedged in place quite nicely without being visible. So the seat is now fully working again - for the moment at least! Mine is a 1990 model and I have to say the power seats on my 1983 (European) Ford Granada were more comfortable and never went wrong. (Not the same car at all as the US Granada/Monarch/Versailles).

Hi guys, Can anyone tell me how to remove the plastic trim round the driver's seat where the switches are, and possibly the seat itself from the car? The lumbar motor only works in one direction, therefore I'm concluding that it's the switch or the relay. I reversed the connections to the motor and it worked the other way when I did that, so it's not siezed. I also made things worse by trying to pry the switch out of the seat and the button retaining clips just broke off. :chairshot: And now, something's happened so the motor won't run at all. So I think I really need to check out that switch, and possibly take the seat out too to get to the relay/control box underneath. But I have had a partial success in fixing the splined transfer bar that does the reclining - I inserted a self-tap screw at one end into the bar to grip the splines - and it seems to be holding up for now. These seats are nothing but trouble. Any help much appreciated!

Say, You don't want to come over and do mine do you? I reckon if I was to pay your return air fare to England it would still be cheaper than my local Toyota/Lexus garage! :P

Did you remove the evaporator in the process of cleaning the blower fan? If so, the o-ring seals are the likely culprit. If not, were there caps on all three fittings (two on low side, one on high side) on ths AC system? Did the tech who charged the system replace the caps?... Hi, No, I didn't take out the evaporator - the blower fan just drops right out from underneath - once you've disconnected the linkage and moved all the wires out of the way of course! Not easy! As for the valve caps - both of the ones by the trans fluid tube are on - haven't looked for any others! As you say, hopefully it's just a seal or something. Thanks for your reply...

A terrible thing has just happened. The other day, the blower motor started to shake really violently. I'm still not sure why, but after removing it from the heater assembly (with great difficulty), dismantling/lubricating the bearings and cleaning the commutator, it now runs smoothly again. The problem is, all the R-12 gas escaped just afterwards. At first I thought that was just a coincidence and paid £75 for a re-gas with an R-12 equivalent. It was ICE cold - and I thought: 'Wow - this is fantastic!' An hour later, guess what - no cold air! :( Now, the guy assured me that the system held a vacuum, and that otherwise he wouldn't have put any gas in. But there is obviously a leak somewhere, and I'm worried that the shaking from the fan has fractured a pipe on the evaporator or something. I've ordered some 2121 Stop Leak Plus which I hope will do the trick. I'm also hoping the a/c guy will take pity on me and do a recharge for free. Somehow I doubt it though. Has anyone else had this specific problem? :cries:

I second that... I just replaced mine at 110k and the OE plugs looked like new. Save yourself the time and trouble of doing the job twice - go for the Densos.

I know this might seem like a silly question! However, I live in the UK and currently own a 1990 LS400 (without the air-ride option). Fabulous car, obviously... But I can't help wondering if an early or mid '90s Lincoln TC might be even smoother and quieter! Those are quite rare in England (apart from in stretched form) so I've been unable to compare. But the interiors look nicer and more impressive than on the LS, there's no doubt about that. However, when you read about all the recalls for steering wheel fires, unintended acceleration etc. it's slightly offputting! Then there's the terrible Ford after-market customer care (on this side of the pond, anyway). So what d'ya reckon? No offence intended, by the way! :D