dcfish

Don't wait for the GS350 just get the GS430 in 2006 :) ← Here is the front end of a 2006 GS.

You probably got a wire on the wrong cylinder,or the wrong gap. Did you wash the motor? How long has it been doing this? Check engine light could be 02 sensors, there are three, that should be replaced around 60 0r 70 thousand miles. ← [/qu The jerking just started yesterday and the check engine light came on today. I never washed the motor. I dont know where to start. Spark plugs will run me $86 from dealer. What do O2 sensors usually go for? Can I replace myself? ← Could be an injector failing

to my knowledge... no. however, i know of an ls1 thats going into an e36. :D if i were to go with a 350, itd have to be an ls1. lt1 honestly cant compare and the ls6 is too rare. if you were to swap in an ls1, you could supercharge it and do some other little tinkerings for under $10k in parts and then youre making ~600hp and ~700tq. sounds like the smart thing to do if you REALLY want good bang per buck. btw, a 600hp&tq supercharged 5.7l chevy v8 would be about 10x more streetable/daily driveable than a 600hp&tq turboed 2jz. ← http://home.earthlink.net/~sc300tt3/SW-SC300T.wmvWhy go 350 when you can have this.

Does anyone know what speed you have to be going to even be effective ? Looks like someone bought it at a garage sale , And the wing too !!!LOL

Agreed with stevie %100

How about a funny car with a SC body ?

wow!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ohh... the expert in this area is lextech.org. Might wanna ask him. Mike ← You should contact lextech.org They are the SC400/300 experts , ask for brian , NONE BETTER <_<

Here's some info on your needles and what is happening. First, this is what you would see if you could freeze the flickering in a dead standstill: http://www.lextech.org/images/needlesandna...edlecloseon.jpg The reason for this is here: http://www.lextech.org/images/needlesandna...eheatdamage.jpg Heat damage. non repairable, non reversible. BUT replaceable Now, first let me say that if there are any questions from this post feel free to email me at sales@lextech.org, however I am going to try and be very specific so "everyone" reading can benefit. You ask why your needles don't give you as much trouble with the headlights on. Try this experiment here: go outside and turn your dimmer switch just off of the high position click (full on) down with your headlights off. Didnt make a hill of beans difference did it? NOW keep it in that position and turn the headlights on. They dimmed! That's because the headlight circut will activate the second stage in the dimmer module when on and cut exactly .5 volt from the cluster. This is JUST ENOUGH to give the led's a slight break from "full voltage". That dimmer module is not just a knob, inside are a few chips and some diodes that regulate two lines to the cluster. one of them is full on (no headlights) one is controlled on (headlights on) which no matter what you do will always keep the cluster at .5 volt lower than the other way. Why? Lexus didn't actually plan on this to happen (actually nippendenso since they make the unit). It is simple electronic theory, more easily said "it's the way it is" . See, whan you add a diode inline it drops the voltage of the line exactly .5 to .6 volt. This is one of the characteristics of the diode in an electronic circut. It just happens that you can see this little quirk of electronic technology since the needles that are sufficiently damaged are leaning on the brink of self destruction if that little tiny amount of energy is applied and helps finish overheating them. You guy's wanna know the truth? That .5 volt extra is exactly what does the needles in...Nippendenso designed the clusters to run off of the dimmer module and never took into account what would happen if the headlights were off and bypassed the dimmer section #2 where the module kicks the diode in that saves the extra .5 volt. That's why they work fine with the headlights on. In short......... Design flaw. Why do the needles flicker? -- They "dance" and flicker under the concept of the "flasher module" relay. If anyone has ever seen how a flasher module works, a small thin piece of aluminum is layed against a hot post when the post is "hot" it heats the piece of metal up and it bends away from the pole for about 1 second (just enough time to cool down and return). After the cool down, the metal returns to the pole and the process is repeated. It heats back up, pulls away from the pole and cools back down and returns. What you see..... is flashing! the contact touches, pulls away, then cools down and touches again. WHOLA! you have a flasher relay. You also have a flasher needle too As the needle heats up it expands the contacts and they pull away. when they cool down about .4 tenths of a second later they come back, touch again, and bounce back off from expansion by the heat. You basically have a flasher relay going on not by your choice. What this looks like, is a "dance" in the needle. This should clear things up and if you need to ask anything else please feel free to email, I will be happy to help. It helps to get answers from an Engineer rather than a Technician. Techs just open units and replace parts, don't know why they failed, don't care, can't prevent it in the future. Fortunately LLS is made of engineers and every concept is a fully engineered redesign to prevent future problems.

LEXTECH.ORG Is where I finally had my 93es300 cluster done and I am quite happy with the results :D I also replaced every backlight for $19.99 and the cluster looks and works like new.

WOOOOHHH!!! I did not intend to hit a nerve , Just trying to help. HAPPY HOLIDAYS!!!!!

By the way , With the intermitent lighting of the needles is caused by the very first of many to come tiny cracks in the factory elements , They will soon become more and more brittle then fail , All of the needles WILL fail in time , The best option is to have them reworked with LED'S.

Did you disconnect the neg. battery terminal before you dove into this GRAND project ??? Are you sure the needles from the 400 work ???HOW DID YOU GO ABOUT TAKING THE OLD NEEDLES OFF ??? AND HOW DID YOU REPLACE THE NEEDLES ??? There is more to the dash that meets the eye!!!

A CONDUCTIVE PAINT IS NOT THE ANSWER.....The painting of the needle will not repair the CONDUCTIVITY it will make the needle off balance, once the original needle fails it will have to be reworked , If you buy new from the dealer or from personal sale they WILL FAIL sooner or later , The best way is to have them LED'D at www.lextech.org or you can mess up your dash any way that seems fit to you............................................................................................................. B)

What happened to the front passenger corner ??? LOL , Don't forget to set up the tranny with the proper coolant system to deal with the added heat if you upgrade to a high stall TC and tranny valve job... GO WITH THE ENGINE UPGRADES FIRST .....

It is your amp... They tend to fail because of there position in the trunk , They get wet [ carwash , rain etc...] and the trunk seal , antena seal , and the drain hose that usually gets crimped or cloged. Check everything mentioned and if you need a amp email or pm me . ;)

Turkey for me and guests , Last year I had Duck !!!! B) ← Let's do this next year !!!!!

Turkey for me and guests , Last year I had Duck !!!! B)

HAPPY THANKSGIVING TO EVERYONE AT LOC !!!!!!!

If you paint the needles they WILL need to be rebalanced DEFINETLY....There is a small brass plate on the back of each needly that you can pry off with a small knife or similar object and there are weights inside the needle base you will have to add weight to the base some times a couple of drops of elmers glue will do the trick [ elmers glue can be removed with ease if the balance needs to be adjusted ] The needles just pull off . The balance on the needles is extremley sensitive. When replacing the needles push them on firmly but not too far towards the guage plate [ they can be adjusted about a quarter of a turn ] so make sure when you replace them the gas is FULL , The engine is at running temp , and the speedo reads 0 and the tach is just at o , Take readings of your entire cluster before you take this project on , For example if your temp is just below the 1/2 way mark when warmed up, That is the way you want it after rebalancing. I have been through the entire process of disassembling and reassembling a 92 - 96 es cluster.

craigamuir , I can help you with your nak system email me or reply with your email address.

1991LS400 , I have a radio for your LS , PM or EM me for details.

Beautiful color combo for that car , Welcome to the GS family.

Welcome to LOC !!!!!! ;)

Tummyboy28 is that you with the diy cluster setup ?