hankinid

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Everything posted by hankinid

  1. I talk to myself more or less daily. Sometimes I get an answer or 2, often not. :) Probably not a recall if the failure rate is low. On a forum like this, you're not going to hear about ML equipment continuing to work well...you'll only hear about the failures. OT...Necro thread, OP hasn't posted here since December of last year.
  2. If none of the other illumination bulbs are out, your issue is a probably a fuse...it could also be a defective switch, but a bulb is FAR more likely. "lights on the adjustment buttons for the rear view mirrors"... A little switch...driver's side...lower portion of the dash. You press the buttons and the mirror things on the outside of the front doors move in and out and up and down...
  3. My wife jumps and trains hunter-jumpers and their riders. She has custom saddles that are definitely NOT inexpensive...I'd guess between what are in the trailer tack room and the barn, she's spent enough on saddles to purchase a new LX. ;) She swears by glycerine and Steuben leather conditioner. As Retired Doc noted, threads like this usually quickly go nowhere...I can say, in my experience, the stuff my wife uses does an outstanding job...not only on saddles and tack but also on my '01 LX and '13 Cruiser. There's nothing particularly different between high-end auto leather products, and high end equestrian products but the packaging and marketing. Though generally, if it's horse-related, it's typically pricier than car-related. If you've got a spare or 2 or 3 days, go to auto geeks.com (detailing website) and read the opinions there. I will say that a good saddle maker knows a hell of a lot more about leather conditioning and cleaning than anybody on autogeeks.com. ;) ETA...Within the last year or so, Toyota discontinued Toyota and Lexus (the same stuff) leather cleaner and conditioner. If you ask for either at your dealer, they'll hand you Lexol products that they've stomped the hell out of the price. If that's what you want, check Amazon or Walmart. hth Steve
  4. Umarali, part number for diff and trans case sealing washers... Front diff fill and rear diff fill and drain 12157-10010 Front diff drain 90430-24003 Transfer case fill and drain 90430-A0003 For some reason, there are no magnets on any of the plugs, so Tundra plugs with magnets (flush with the plug for drains, extended for fill) are, I think, reasonably priced upgrades. You have 4 choices, depending on if you want a plug with a socket for a 10mm Allen wrench or a 24mm (actually, 15/16" works and fits just a little tighter) 1/2" drive socket...You can also get either variety with a long magnet or one that's flush with the end of the plug. The short ones are used for drain plugs and the TC fill plug, and the longer plugs are used for the diff's fill plugs. 10mm drive, long magnet 90341-18035 10mm drive, short magnet 90341-18021 24mm drive, long magnet 90341-18040 24mm drive, short magnet 90341-18057 I'll be draining the diffs and TX later this week when my driveway dries out from the rain. I'm also taking a very long look at the Motive Power pneumatic filling tool for stuff like this...cheap for the time and mess it will save...wish I'd known about it years ago... http://www.amazon.com/Motive-Products-1730-Fluid-Transfer/dp/B00I6BG1KI/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1445294785&sr=1-1&keywords=motive+products+1730 hth Steve
  5. As a head's-up if you decide to do a drain / refill on the diff's...according to my parts guy and confirmed by a great indy shop here in Boise (LTS), the drain and fill washers on the rear diff and the fill washer on the front diff are identical. For some reason unknown to me though, Toyota uses a different washer on the front diff drain plug. That's altogether very different than on the 100 series LX as all 4 diff washers are identical. Transfer case washers are separate animals, as they thread into aluminum instead of cast steel cases. I should get the washers delivered (Toyota Parts Barn...26% or so off list) this coming Monday. I'll post at that time with pn's and visual difference. Plugs are simple, but getting to them takes a bit of time. It helps to have a pretty complete selection of 3/8" extensions, u-joint and / or wobble extensions, as well as both u-joint and straight plug sockets. Keep up the good work, and thanks again for posting both here and on Mud. :) Steve
  6. I hope you don't mind, but I just cross-posted this to the 200 series section on ih8mud. Good luck. ;)
  7. Unfortuneately for those of us who enjoy a bit (or a lot) of diy, Toyota discontinued publishing shop manuals after the 2010 MY...the only thing available now, at least for my 2013, is the Electric Wiring Diagram book...but it's still worth the money v. a couple of hours of dealer labor for something easy, like wiring-in driving lights. Retired Doc, thanks much for this thread. I'm a little surprised that the amp died after only a few years...I'd be interested to know what National Radio identified as the failure mode. If it were overheating, maybe a little carpet removal is needed under the seat. Thanks again. Steve
  8. It's outstanding to see some diy here...especially fixes that are bulletproof and don't require a colonoscopy at your Lexus dealer. It's also great to see your work on MUD. Steve
  9. More info on this globe supplier on ih8mud.com. ;) Steve
  10. Congratulations on the 2011. HID low beams were/are the best money I've spent on my series 100. Stock low beams were the worst I've seen...prior to the LX taking over that title, worst lamps were on a 6 volt Massey-Ferguson tractor... Go to DDM Tuning.com for step-by-step instructions. You essentially mount the ballasts on each side of the engine compartment, drill a 7/8" hole through the plastic low beam covers, and run the wiring to the HID bulbs through a rubber grommet. I used 6000K bulbs for the low beams and the end result was that lighting was so much improved over the oem lights that now the high beams don't give me much more light than the low's. Steve
  11. I don't disagree in the slightest...see post #2 above. For what you pay for the truck, not to mention that you can drive a well maintained LC or LX for quite a while, I do think it's worthwhile to get one from a generally rust-free geographical location...California, Vegas, the Pacific northwest, etc. Steve
  12. Assuming both have regular maintenance records (which you can get with a VIN and the Lexus owners' website...or see if a local dealer will give you a print-out), I'd go with the lower mileage truck...$13K less money and close to half the mileage. ;) For me, a black truck would be a no-go from the git-go. OT, I'm in a similar boat as you...started looking for a low mileage '06-'07 LX or LC...found I could get into a 200-series for not much more money. I was not aware that the third row seats are fold-over...that obviates the ability to add drawers that you can sleep on and stay level...not to mention more hassle to carry your best friends in the back. :( My LX's rear seats stayed in the truck long enough for me to remove them and store them in the attic on the day I bought the LX...same with the running boards. So far, I'm getting the vibe that maybe the 570 is a cross between a 100-series and a Sequoia. Report back with what you choose. ;) Steve
  13. Don...As part of Carmax's checkout, do they put the truck up on a rack and pull the belly pans?? Can they crawl under the truck and send you a few pictures? I've seen more 570's for sale in the Seattle area than just about any place else. And, I'm in the same boat as you...thinking of either a low mileage -07 470 v. an early 570 at this time. Though the more I look at the newer model, the more junk I see...e.g., drink cooler, "crawl" mode, etc. Good luck with whatever you get. It took me 6+ months to find my current LX. Steve
  14. 4 years in Illinois would have left enough "minor" salt on the undercarriage to take care of almost every French fry in north America. I would be patient and keep looking for a truck from someplace other than the rust belt. hth Steve
  15. Assuming your audio system also gives you gps and climate controls in the same general area (i.e., it's NOT a double-DIN system with climate controls below it on the center console) it's doable but a real female dog. Check the 100-series forum on ih8mud.com for more info and rotsa' ruck. ;) Steve
  16. I cannot see why not...other than badging and standard equipment, the trucks are identical. Servicing the AHC system simply involves removing old fluid, adding new fluid, and bleeding the accumulator and the 4 globes until clean fluid is visible. I'd also ask the dealer to verify AHC pressures are in spec via Toyota Tech Stream...I'd also get a printout to add to my service records. Other than that...holy necro-thread. Steve
  17. Maintenance schedule notes timing belt should be replaced every 90K...Since the water pump needs to be removed to get to the timing belt, and since the water pump is cheap, it should also be done with the belt as a matter of course. If you need the maintenance schedule, you should be able to find on on lexus.com...check the resources there for the schedule. hth Steve
  18. You should see both a front and a rear drain on both sides. Steve
  19. Eugene...you're welcome and thx for your service. My low beams are fine in the rain...blowing snow is a bit of a challenge and if we had more of it up here I'd be looking at low-Kelvin temp. deep yellow fog lights. My high beams are noticeably cooler than the lows. The HID lows are far beyond oem low beams imo. HID's for the fog lamps also made a big difference...not so much on a clear night, but much better peripheral throw in fog...helpful in snow and sleet. Current so-called "best" high beam lamps without adding a projector lens (like oem low beams) are HIR bulbs...there's pages of stuff about them on Mud. Steve
  20. ...and, if I may say so, ugleeee as sin. Steve
  21. If the high-beam housing is a reflector instead of a projector, you tend to get light where you don't want it as well as perhaps blind other drivers due to light scatter. I'd think high beam color is about 3000K-ish. Running lights won't work if you replace the oem bulbs with HID's. Running lights simply connect the high beams in series and there's also an added resistor in a little perforated metal box. 100 watt halogen bulbs draw about 8-9 amps, 60 watt lamps consume 5 amps. If you're concerned with wire gauge or fire, use a relay...simple My experience? Replacing the low beams with 6000K HID's was probably, other than the shop manual, some of the best money I've spent on the truck. With the low's on, switching on the high's gives very little increase in beam distance. Prior to the low beam hid's, the low beams were some of the crappiest I've seen as far as throw and illumination. I've never had a blown fuse with the HID's, but they run through a relay just in case. If you're really serious about illumination, fit some GE 4309 100 watt landing lights as driving lights. ;) Steve
  22. Chuck, I'm not aware of an in-truck spare carrier. I'd definitely suggest talking to Christo at Slee and think about his tire carrier on the rear bumper. My reasoning>>>You've got a wheel/tire assembly which approaches 100 pounds. Unless that sucker is very securely mounted with big holes through your plastic paneling and the inner panels which hold the paneling in place, you could be in serious crap if you have to stop fast or, (heaven forbid) you run into something or something runs into you. Then, you've got the wheel/tire heading your way very fast. My suggestion would again get the rear bumper with tire rack or use the under body oem spare tire space...I've got 285-75 x 16's on my Lx and the spare fits fine. If you're worried about dragging, by the time the spare drags due to approach angle, you've already toasted your trailer hitch. eta...my third row seats came out of the truck just as fast as the running boards...like the first day I bought the truck. Just my thoughts. ;) Steve
  23. If it's water and not coolant, I would suspect a blocked A/C drain.
  24. Removing the RB's may take half an hour if you take your time. I would suggest removing the running boards and leaving the brackets in place, but it doesn't make a lot of difference. The only one a little difficult access is the front bracket on the passenger's side. I removed mine within 2 days of buying it and they've lived in the attic since. ;) Steve
  25. They came with 2 oem plates, a metal one in front that goes approximately from the radiator to the cross member about 2 feet back, and a plastic or fiberglass one that goes behind that. Slee makes awesome stuff, not inexpensive but worth it. I drive my '01 about the same as you and I've never scraped the oem plates...at least so far.:) Steve