collegeguy

Yeah, $450-$500 is about what I would have guessed. I wanted to get the shocks done this summer but my dumb @ss destroyed my exhaust system...$500 down the drain so they'll have to wait till winter. I haven't noticed any further wear of the shocks and they aren't in too bad of shape (while the ride isn't as smooth as I'd like the driveability hasn't been effected). So, it can wait.

heh, mine are just starting to go on my '94 and I was wondering the same thing. Although after riding in my friend's cars, a Lexus with worn shocks still has a smoother ride than 90% of the cars out there.

This must be a common problem....I changed my rear brakes this summer and noticed that both rear calipers were missing a bolthead. How crucial is it that I get the bolts replaced? The calipers are still held in fine...it's just a pain in the !Removed! to install pads.

Thanks, I'll go ahead and file a claim. I know little about the process of filing a claim since I've never been in an accident of any kind up until Friday night. My only concern was that my insurance premium would go up despite the accident not being my fault. But if this isn't the case I'd definitely like to proceed. And, just out of curiosity, what speed do you typically have to be hit at for the airbags to deploy? Even though I was hit at a relatively low rate of speed I was kind of surprised they didn't deploy, although I'm also very happy they didn't since my car would be undriveable right now.

This was Friday night...I was in the left lane of a 4 lane road. I was approaching an intersection at about 30-35 and there was a red SUV about 20 feet in front of me. The idiot in the oncoming lane wasn't paying attention and veered into our lane of traffic....the guy in the SUV swerved to the right, and got hit in the left rear of his truck. I put on the brakes and figured the oncoming guy would be able to stop/swerve in time to avoid me but alas, he hit me head on. Now the good news - damage is VERY minimal (and wasn't even apparent until a close inspection of my bumper. The left side of the upper portion of my front bumper is pretty scraped up...and there are a couple cracks in the lower (darker tone) bumper. The foglight casing is pushed in about an inch from where it should be, and there is some crackage in the undercarriage (in the same general area). The issues SEEM to be only cosmetic in nature, and are not even noticeable until a close inspection. I looked under the hood and nothing seems out of place, and there are no changes driving-wise. Anyway, I am considering filing a claim against this guy. 100% of the fault was pinned on him (there were about 7 witnesses between the passengers in my car and the passengers in the red SUV). Anyway, what kind of work am I looking at here? With the crackage in the lower portion of the bumper, am I looking at a full bumper replacement? The cracks are very minimal but I fear they might be susceptible to corrosion (although I'm not sure about this - since this portion of the bumper is plastic). Also, I don't want some engine problem to surface at a later date, when it's too late to file a claim. Overall, I feel very fortunate right now - damage was extensive to the other two vehicles involved. Considering the guy was probably still going 15 MPH or so when he hit me - I expected a lot more damage than was actually present since he dealt me a direct blow.

I took it in today and it turned out that the backing plate fell off - nothing else. Very cheap and fast fix and my car is back on the road! I still need to take care of the ABS issue but it won't effect the driveability until winter. Sweet!

I'm almost positive the front (left) brake pad on the bad caliper wore the quickest.....I'm going to examine the wear before I take the car in tomorrow...I don't have the car with me, it's about 1/2 mile from my house right now, so I can't really go outside and take a look. I'm going to the shop tomorrow and i'll see what they have to say, and come back here after I know what went wrong...

No, the left rear is completely blown whereas the right rear brake pad is in fine condition. As are the front pads which were replaced over a year ago (as opposed to the rears which were replaced 3 months ago.)

First, I don't know exactly what is wrong...I replaced both rear brake pads with my stepfather back in June...I did a lot of driving this summer but not enough to warrant a brake pad going bad. My right rear brake pad is in fine condition as are my front pads (replaced in the summer of 2003). So, obviously something is wrong with the left rear braking system but i have not been able to diagnose it. I'm sure I can put a new pad on and drive safely...but something is causing abnormal wear of the pad and I am not sure what. After talking to my stepfather I am even more confused because the missing bolt head on the caliper apparently could become an issue after corrosion - but I have not driven a winter without the caliper's bolt head. Unless the missing bolt head caused the caliper to slide...(according to my stepfather). Again, I am not mechanically inclined so I don't know what's going on exactly. Thanks for the help though.

Thanks for the response, and thanks for correcting the misspelling in the thread title. I replaced my front brake pads with cheap pads from auto zone and haven't heard a squeak yet (this was over a year ago). THey are still in good shape. But I will follow through with Toyota OEM per your advice. I'm assuming the brake squealing was directly related to the fact that my left rear brake pads wore out extremely fast. I'm still kind of at a loss as to what caused this. This missing bolt head was caused by the fact that I drove with worn rear brake pads for way too long. I admit, this was my failure to give attention to a problem - but I drove my car for several weeks after my rear brakes had started to squeal. I didn't replace my pads until I heard a horrible scraping from both of the rear wheel wells - and I had destroyed both of the rotors. Now, I have essentially brand new rotors and brake pads in the rear. My step-father pointed out that BOTH rear calipers had a bolt head come off due to extensive wear. I have noticed NO problem whatsoever from the right rear brakes. I hope I'm making sense here...I may have misinterpreted my stepfather (he's an engineer at a prestigious university and is one of the most intelligent people I know period) so I have no reason to doubt him. But this is, for all intents and purposes, the best I can accurately describe the situation. I appreciate your help and hope I can figure out what is wrong without spending more money than is necessary. Thank you. P.S. I've had a bit to drink tonight so if I rambled a bit I apologize.

I thought I'd add - For a couple of months I've heard a metallic rattle coming from the general area of the left rear wheel well of my car when I hit bumps...(no, not the shocks). Also, brake squeeling (at stops and sometimes even during non-braking conditions). I was incredibly busy and the overall driving of the car was not affected so I (perhaps stupidly) ignored this. My step-father (who is an engineer and very mechanically-able, I trust him with anything to do with mechanics) helped me replace my rear brake pads, and pointed out that one of the heads of the bolts had come off of my left rear caliper. I asked him what effect this would've had on my brake pads wearing so quickly and he seemed pretty baffled. I'm not sure if this helps with diagnosing the problem or not...I'm going to go ahead and get new brake pads put on tomorrow (since I'll need new pads regardless of the problem). The car should be completely driveable with new pads, but I'd like to figure out what's wrong to avoid costlier repairs down the line.

$1500, $600 for aftermarket? I'm ignorant of how that translates to U.S. prices. I had to replace my exhaust due to backing into a parking spot too far and hitting the curb (the curb was very high). It basically jammed the outer pipe into the inner pipes and right into the manifold to make a long story short. My whole exhaust system needed to be replaced and I paid a bit less than $500 including labor. My suggestion: Don't go through Lexus, dealer prices are always going to be through the roof. And if you have a problem that needs to be fixed by a dealer (I never have until now with my ABS sensor), almost any Toyota dealer can perform the same service for less. I took it to a local repair shop (one that I trust). I'm pretty sure they used the Camry part as well, and I've had no problems with the new exhaust (I've even duplicated my back into the curb job - and after feeling my heart sink been able to pull away with NO noise from the exhaust). Good luck.

I replaced my rear break pads this summer (94 ES) and the right rear is still fine but my left rear just died tonight! This makes no sense. I don't know if there are caliper problems that could lead to this? My rotor is still in good shape despite this...and a break pad replace would be easy and cheap but I don't want to spend $20 on a break pad and find out that there is some other component of the break that caused my break pad to wear at an abnormal rate. Also, another unrelated break problem - I took my car in a few weeks ago to get my front CV joints replaced and literally 10 minutes after I drove it off the lot my ABS system went heywire. Now, for the first 10 minutes of driving or so, my anti-lock braking kicks in whenever I stop. After about 10 minutes, my ABS light comes on and the pulsing stops...I took it back to the shop and they couldn't find anything - I took it to a dealer and they said the shop could've broken the sensor, I was leaving for college in 2 days so I have had no time to look into this since. Is this likely a sensor issue, and is there any way I could get restitution from the shop to pay for a new sensor (which I'm assuming is expensive)? What a headache...this couldn't have happened at a worse time.

Thanks for the help guys...I brought the car in tonight for a diagnostic check and sure enough, it was the alternator...I got a good deal on a new alternator+labor so I'm happy. As for the CV Joint - I'm already at the clicking stage unfortunately. Although it's not real bad (yet). I'd imagine I'll go for a remanufactured one...not worth buying a new one for a 10 year old car even though the engine & Transmission are in tip-top shape.

I'm in Pittsburgh, PA. I searched a few wholesale parts stores online and found a Bosch alternator for $167....I'd be happy with this deal especially since I have a friend who is willing to install this for me since I'm not all that handy. http://catalog.auto-parts-wholesale.com/?m...=1994&x=107&y=4 My only concern is being too stingy and ending up with a lemon of an alternator. Are the Camry and ES300 alternators interchangeable? If so, would this be a cheaper alternative? Also, while I'm at it - I need a new right front CV Joint - how much is this likely to run me and how easy would this be to install myself... Sorry about all the questions, school has been stressful recently and the alternator issue has only added to my stress...I need to get this taken care of so I don't have tto worry about starting my car in the morning.

ouch...what's the best route to go for a new alternator? I'm tempted to spring for a cheaper remanufactured alternator...I don't want to drop $500 on an alternator. Also, how difficult of a DIY install is this?

OK - I've been having recurring problems maintaining charge in my 1994 ES300. At first I thought it was the battery (way back in August), I replaced the battery with a brand new one. Now, over the end of the summer/fall I probably played the radio about 7-8 hours with the car shut off - perhaps this killed the new battery I purchased, I don't really know what the likelihood of this is. Anyway, things were OK for the most part, every several weeks I'd run into problems where my battery light would come on, my radio would shut off, and my idle would feel rough...this always happened as I was decelerrating, usually for a red light. I'd pop the car into park and rev the engine and it would go away. Occasionally, my car would only click when attempting to start it and I'd require a jump start (car would jump start and I'd be fine for several more weeks). Recently, things got worse, the only reason I neglected the problem to begin with was because I'm a full time student and it's hard to find time to bring the car in...I hoped I could wait till summer. Over the past few weeks, the battery light would come on with increasing frequency and I'd have to get jump started on more occasions. It finally became undoable last week when my car would literally die WHILE i was driving (decelerrating, but still - while in traffic). Fortunately, I was able to get off onto a semi-stable shoulder and get a tow truck. What everyone agreed on was that I needed a new negative battery terminal - the terminal was loose and would not stay attached to the battery regardless of attempts to screw it back on. I made an appointment with Pep Boys, and upon receiving another jump start, duct-taped the terminal down to the battery (not directly on the terminal to avoid fire hazard). Anyway, I rode on this for about a week with absolutely no problems whatsoever - car started up beautifully and the gauge lights were brighter than they'd been in months while at idle. I was very happy because I was sure this meant the battery terminal was the problem. Anyway, I brought the car in, installed the negative terminal yesterday, and drove away...no problems, until I'd been driving about 2 miles. I braked for a stop sign and the dreaded battery light came on again. At this point I'm getting frustrated...my radio did its' telltale shut-off as well. After driving around for a little while, I seemed to restore some charge and was able to brake without losing much power (although the gauge lights and head lights dimmed). (Also, for the past several months, whenever I depress the power window levers, it causes the head lights to dim. I don't know whether or not this is normal). Anyway...I parked my car and kept it running in idle for a while...when I got back the car was still running but when I turned on the defrost to try and drive away, everything went to hell. I was somehow able to get out of the lot I was in, to drive to a lot where I could keep my car overnight. However, I was in drive and I essentially lost all electric power - I lost my radio, power steering, and ABS - and this is with the radio shut off, gauge lights dimmed to a minimum, etc. I managed to get to the lot and left my car...I tried to start it back up out of curiosity and I got clicking as if the car almost wanted to start up but it didn't (I should add that when I had to get towed a week ago when we thought it was the battery terminal - the car was so dead that I couldn't even run the hazard lights, honk the horn or use the remote key). So, in short - what the hell gives? Really, this looked like a terminal problem and maybe I did need a new terminal, but I'm still having problems (a bit different from the problems i had a week ago). Does this sound battery or alternator related? I'm bringing my car in for sure but I don't really see having a chance for at least 4 or 5 days so I'd like to know what I'm up against. If I do need a new alternator - what's the cheapest route to go (while not sacrificing too much quality). Thanks.

Actually, the clearcoat is in great shape...a few minor scratches here and there but the car is shiny and glossy. As far as cleaning - do you recommend cleaning by hand? I've heard the automatic car washes can scratch up the car...

Does anyone have any advice on how to prevent rust from forming on my recently acquired '94 ES 300, especially given that I live in an area that uses a lot of salt on the roads in the winter time? This car is beautiful and I want to keep it looking that way - it has been a real head-turner in the few days that I've been driving it. Also, there is a tiny rust spot on the roof (passenger's side near the sunroof). The previous owner pointed this out to me...I wouldn't have noticed it without his doing so and I had to look very carefully to actually find it again. I'm not concerned about the appearance of this spot itself...but I do not want it to spread. Is there any way to prevent its spread? It looks like it was the result of a small, but deep scratch. Other than this, the car is rust-free, and even this one is very small and you have to be right up close to the car and looking for it. Anyway...advice on rust prevention would be appreciated...this car is in great mechanical condition and looks so good that I'd hate to lose it anytime soon to rust.

University of Pittsburgh. Thanks for the advice...I knew the 90K service interval would be costly...fortunately I won't be putting a ton of mileage on this car so 90K should be several months away. I can't get enough of this car...everything about it, the way it drives, the interior, the way it looks, and the way I catch people turning their heads and staring at this 9 year old car that looks almost brand new. It's only been 3 days but thusfar I can't imagine buying anything other than another Lexus when the time comes around to get another car. I'm flat broke because of this car but every time I drive it I realize that it was indeed worth it...nothing about the car feels or looks worn out at all. The real killers price-wise for me were tax and my first insurance premium payment (I had been on my parents' policy and got really cheap rates - now they're killing me since I'm still in my teens). Once I get some money in the bank, I'm going to get the 90K service. Anyway....I'll try and get some pics up...unfortunately, there are a LOT of bugs around this summer so the car has gone from carwash clean to kind of dirty (but the clear coat still looks amazing regardless). Guess it's probably due for a wash of some sort.

I've had it for 2 days now and WOW, this car is sweet in EVERY way. I can't get enough of it. It only has 86,000 miles, so I'm hoping I can get several years of good usage out of this car. Anyway, now that I actually own the car, does anyone have any tips or suggestions about keeping the car in top shape (and how to do so relatively affordably). Money will be tight for a little while here. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

Sounds good...how hard is it to read the speedometer at night with the needle completely burnt out? Anyway, my main concern was the mechanical condition of the car - it runs excellently and was highly recommended by the 2 mechanics I had look at it. I'm willing to put a little money into it to keep it running in top shape. I just saw a local ad for a '96 ES 300 with 87k miles for only $7,000, and the ad claims it's in excellent condition!!!!! I'm a little sick to my stomach that I'm paying $1300 more for a 2 year older car....but $7,000 is freaking over $3,000 below Kelley Blue Book Value for a '96 ES 300 in "excellent condition" with 87K miles, so that would probably make me nervous...or maybe this guy is truly ignorant about used car pricing. Either way...damn, I wish I had the chance to at least check this one out before settling on the '94...I feel a bit sick over this for now. Hopefully the feeling will pass as soon as I get the keys to this car, which I'm looking very forward to.

Another thing that occurred to me - when I drove the car for the final time the other day, a small portion of the speedometer needle was burnt out...the rest of it was fine. Is this indicative of a gauge cluster problem? It's something I'm willing to live with to be honest, on an otherwise very nice car, but is this something to be concerned about?

OK, I know he told me he changed tranny fluid recently...not sure about radiator and if it's had a fuel cleaning. Also, this was something I completely forgot to ask in the 3 times I've looked at the car - how likely is it that the shocks have been replaced at 85,000 miles? I'll be sure to ask him, but the car's ride was beautifully smooth and quiet - although this was after driving a few hours in a '92 Toyota Tercel. They sure didn't feel worn just from driving the thing...but you never know...is this something urgent? Because I know replacing the shocks would be pricey and while I wouldn't mind spending the money to do this I'd rather wait another year or so when I'll have a better grasp on my finances (and most of the car paid off as I am a college student).

Actually, I am buying the car from a private seller...he is the 2nd owner but he bought it when it was only 2 years old (right after it came off a lease). He has almost all of the service records...tires are close to brand new, exhaust system is new, brakes are a bit worn but still serviceable and should last for another year or so...I took it to a mechanic and he said it was in excellent mechanical shape. However, I don't believe the owner said he took it in for 90K service yet...although I'll definitely ask to make sure. Is it necessary to take it to a Toyota or Lexus dealer though? Or would I be just as well off taking it to a trusted non-dealer, and save the money?