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About philmstar

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  • Birthday 03/31/1953

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    Oregon (OR)

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  1. Sorry Guys, as I expected this Car was SOLD in hours..... a 54,000 mile, 1993 LS400 that was a beauty. $7K
  2. This ad just popped up on my local Craigslist, amazing!!! ;)
  3. Hi, I'm pretty sure that the phone is one of the old "Analogue" devices from the late 90's. It looks very similar to the kit I took out of mine after I purchased it. 99% of the cellphone providers in the USA (Verizon, AT&T, Sprint etc.) now provide "digital" networks so these old devices WILL NOT work :( I purchased a Nokia 6210 (New 2001 Model from China) and got an original CARK Hands Free Installation Kit. From a very generous member of the Club (Kansas) These phones were the early digital phones and they STILL work on the current networks, of course you do not get big touch screens and APPs etc. but for $7 a month for a T mobile SIM, I have a "emergency" phone in my Lexus which lets me talk/text and is of an age that is suited to my 2000 Lexus. Sadly I could not the steering wheel controls (On/Off, Vol etc.) to work with this kit, but the audio is through the on board amp. (Drivers Door Speaker) Hope that helps. Regards Phil
  4. Thanks John, yes I've never had the funds for Mercs or Beamers so spent most of my life driving used UK Ford, Japanese and the odd "Bargain Banger" :} Now I'm retired here in the States (Followed my Daughter when she started producing Grandkids!) I've mellowed. Always wanted an LS400 but at 50K they were out of my price range :( Then "Lexy" popped up locally for $6500 with only 69K on the clock and full Lexus maintenance history (Including timing belt/water pump etc. replacement at 50K) the rest as they say is "History".
  5. Hi All, I've have been "lurking" and keeping up with the new topics, but have not posted for a while. So as it is "Lexy" and my 2nd Anniversary this month, I thought I would post an update of my first 2 years owning a 2000 LS400, I've added 10,000 miles (Now 80,000 miles) but still less than 5000 a year! To put it bluntly, I'm "Well Chuffed!" and extremely pleased with life so far! She has performed wonderfully and never let me down once. I have had to replace drivers side front O2 sensor (Through up the relevant code) and did the passenger side at the same time just as a precaution. Not done the post Cat sensors yet as I don't really want to take up all the footwell carpeting :( While I had her jacked up, I noticed a minor leak around the Power Steering Pump, it works fine lock to lock and the fluid level has hardly moved. I guess I will have to read the excellent posts on here about diagnosis and rectifying it before it gets serious and takes out my Alternator! Only other minor quibble is the Rev counter needle sometimes plays dead, then suddenly bursts back into life a few days later. I've read its a common issue and my guess it's temperature/humidity related. It's only happen 3 times in 2 years, but usually after she has not been used for a while. With just a difficult to find blocked drain pipe by the filler cap, these are the only issues I've had. (I've NEVER owned a car that was so reliable and she is now 17 years old!) I aim to keep her almost stock, I have removed the Center Console Analogue phone and thanks to "Kansas" (of who kindly sent me a huge box of pre millennium Nokia Car Kits. I have installed a circa 1999 CARK Car Kit and bought (from China) a new Nokia 6230 Cellphone. It is only used in "Lexy" and for only $5 a month on a T-Mobile PAYG contract she has her own emergency communications!!! I have the original SatNav/Audio/Climate touchscreen, but have wired in a switchable 3.5mm socket in the center console that allows me to connect IPod/Smartphone etc. and it enhances the CD Player which I still actually use occasionally! I would love to obtain software to allow me to play with the "Touch Screen Menus" but sadly surfing numerous Japanese websites has proven fruitless. I guess I'm just going to have to live with 17 year old Maps!!! (Or use my Smartphone) Latest Mod (Pics attached) was to replace the orange market lamps on front corners. Found a nice set of clear on eBay and a couple of hours in the sunshine and "sorted". I think they look much better. I've used silver bulbs also but they glow orange. (Just waiting for my Alpine Metallic Silver Touch up paint to sort the scratches on the lower bumper!). How is she running? well I recently drove from Oregon to Idaho and back (1500+ miles) on "Cruise" at 80mph most of the way. She averaged 27.3mpg, that's almost twice what I get in my Durango and certainly the journey was much more relaxing and luxurious ;) If anybody reading this is considering buying a late LS400, do it! I just hope you can find a late low mileage model that has been well maintained at the right price?
  6. Thank you, I was advised it was my Front Driver side O2 Sensor by my local Toyota Dealership, who ran the diagnostic for me. I will check again before purchasing new Sensor. Only 80K but nearly 17 years old! :)
  7. Thanks Bob, I thought that may be the case but I haven't looked underneath yet. The write ups referring to removing carpets etc. seem to be needed to access the plug/socket on the harness. Does that mean the Front (pre-cat) Sensor(s) plugs are actually accessible from below? Thanks again.
  8. Just found this post from 2007 "I have a 98 LS and I had to replace the left side first O2 sensor. I's under the seat your have to pull up the carpet and remove the gas pedal (just pull hard toward the seat it will pop off) the you will see the wire for it . Not a big job total of about 1 hour. I bought a Denso replacement for $65.00 no big deal I think the dealer wanted around $280.00 " That will teach me to search first before posting :( This is a G8 source of info, thank you ALL members.
  9. Hi Guys (& Gals) On my way up to Seattle airport to collect family when I got a engine management warning light. I "baby" my Lexy, so I pulled into a local Toyota dealership and had them run the diagnostic. It is my front (drivers side) O2 sensor. They stated car will still run fine (and it does) but I have lost the reading from that sensor and hence warnings etc. if Catalytic fails :) Typically I was charged $75 for running the test!!! (Sadly my tester was at home) and they proceeded to quote me $278 to order a replacement!!! I've been on several websites and found a variety of manufacturers Denso, Walker, Replacement? etc. and prices quoted from $200+ down to $45 for a pair (Driver & Passenger - front). I think I will replace both to be safe. My question is, can anyone recommend a good oem replacement and anything else I should be aware of when replacing them? Do I need to replace rear as well? Regards, Phil
  10. Eureka! After much investigation I have resolved my nagging "splash back" problem (Thanks to an in depth search on here!!!) See "craigamuir's" post 25120 dated Oct 28, 2005. "Last year my 2000 LS developed a problem when you tried to fill it with gas. As you pumped the gas in, much of it just sprayed back out. The dealer said that the charcoal cannister and the fuel filler valve needed replacing - $900. I paid for the repair. A few weeks ago the same problem repeated (or so I thought). I took it to a different dealer and told them it better not be the charcoal cannister or fuel filler valve. They pulled the shop manual on the car and began to search for the problem. 4 days later they called to say that they had solved the mystery. Apparently there's a rear drain hose for runoff water around the trunk area. The air release for the gas tank also vents into this drain line. Putting gas in the tank vents the air in the tank into the drain line. If the drain line gets clogged as mine was, the venting air causes the backed up water to gurgle and then spray out a drain hole just above and to the left of the main fuel filler hole. This makes it look like gas is coming back out when you put it in. Actually it's the backed up drain water in the line. The second dealer blew out the obstruction in the drain line with an air hose and now the car seems fine. The dealer said that they had never encountered the problem before." Note: The tank venting pipe actually feeds charcoal canister then joins vent/drain pipe to prevent any gases reaching outside (which would be illegal). I cleared debris from my drain pipe and issue solved! Seek and Ye shall find :)
  11. Hi All, Happy New Year! It's 6 months since I started this thread so I thought I would update. After my initial problems and investigation last Summer the problem just went away, perhaps due to more regular use of the car, the warmer summer weather or just luck? Anyway, no water coming back out of vent pipe on numerous refills. This holiday I made a couple of round trips from Oregon up to Vancouver, BC. Airport to collect family and had to drive through the Seattle rain :( Had to fill up on several occasions and, you guessed it, water burbling out of the vent hole in the upper left of the filler cap assembly? Again it was typically only about half a cupful, but is concerning as I would prefer to just have vapor/air! The car ran great 27mpg plus over 1500 miles of mainly I5 freeway cruising. No alarms, stuttering, poor starts etc. would just love to cure problem. Any new thoughts on my problem. Regards, Phil
  12. Clunkfish, that makes sense particularly when you think of oil spills at sea. Would that therefore mean that if you DID have water in your tank and I'm guessing the fuel intake/pump is mounted quite low for gauge reading etc. then you would have a major disaster fairly quickly, or would there have to be a lot of water below the fuel? I've always assumed the EVAP systems had two roles, 1. To remove and recycle gas vapours to the engine and 2.. To remove excess moisture/water/condensation from above/within the fuel sytem. I'm guessing it would NOT detect any water below the tank fuel?
  13. Bob, strange you should mention that. The Oregon Senate is actually voting through a Bill this Fall to allow Drivers to fill their own vehicles (At last!) I think that just leaves New Jersey as the only place in the USA you cannot.