AWJ

Glad you got it.

For 8 wide and 9 wide that is right on. What neo said.

Breaker "cheater" bars make me nervous. Especially on the lugs. Most tire shops will loosen them for you. I took it over once and just had them break the lugs loose. I brought my iron and tightened them back up to spec. They did not charge for it and I offered the kid a ten spot for his time - he refused it. Drove home and took my wheels off. The body guy over torqued my driver rear way over. That is horrible for rotors.

That's because they never planned for it to be changed. The fittings are a real pita I hear. Never tried it. If I did to it, I would cut it off and replace it with a aeromotive unit and use compression fittings to crimp on the stock line.

People here have done it. They might contribute. The only downside is the cost I guess. OEM parts are always excellent quality. I like the earlier model pieces though for some reason better. Just my opinion. Although the grill slit is nice on the later pieces. The round fogs don't do it for me. Still awesome car no matter what year though.

They will fit with stock brakes. I don't know if they will fit with LS calipers but they should. That doesn't mean they will. The only way to know is to try it. Or find someone that has done it. The dealership might be able to tell you if they will.

So your freinds pushed the brake pedal while the caliper was not seated on the rotor and the piston popped out. Remove the entire caliper and take to a shop that specializes in brakes. They will have to press it back in. You most likely won't be able to do it without a press. Never do brake work without fully understanding it first. It's your life you are messing with. Otherwise you could try a core exchange for another caliper set from a parts broker or salvage shop. I popped a piston on my passenger side caliper when I was swapping my brakes, but I was removing the caliper completely anyways. I can sell you the good caliper if you want. That's only an option if your driver side caliper is the one in question though. Send me your popped one. I have access to a press. Those are your options now. To properly bleed the brakes, one needs to be at the pedal and another needs to be at the bleeder. Open the bleeder, depress the pedal as far as it will go with key in the on position, close the bleeder before the pedal goes back up, close the bleeder, pedal up, repeat until no more bubbles or spraying of brake fluid. Make sure you continually keep an eye on the brake reserviour and keep in contact with the pedal man. Use a hose and a jar to catch the fluid or else it will get very messy. Or purchase a bleeder kit. If you are creative, you could fashion an air tight hose with a check valve and pump the brakes. Never pump the brakes with the calipers off the rotor. Good luck. Be safe.

Welcome to the club! Good luck on your search.

Without reading those other replies, wich I'm sure are fine, know this. Your motor is 10:1 compression. That is high. It has two knock sensors. This will pull timing and at stock settings you should never see detonation. The thing is, the engine was designed to run on high octane. The low grade stuff is crap. It literally has garbage in it. This builds up and gums and craps the motor. The high test stuff even has crap in it that builds up. As far as I'm concerned, every gas station should sell 104. Most other cars run 8:1 or so. These are meant to run that cheapola gas. That is why your guy says don't sweat the high test.

Hey there valued members. I am a member of another club by the name of Team SOLO. We are an up and coming group. Anyways, there is a very sweet young lady out of Orlando Florida that is competing in the Import Tuner model search. Her name is Megan and Lexus Valle is her alias. Cool huh? We would be much obliged if you kind folks would give her your vote and support her and Team SOLO. Pretty simple. And she's hot! Thanks, AJ - Lurks http://www.importtuner.com/modelsearch2004/0406it_orlando00/ That's the link. So to sum up - vote for Megan. B) The hot blonde.

It's simple. PM me your e-mail and I'll send you the simplified procedure. You should always at least check the code to find out what it is. Others have the same issues but I forget what the cause and cure is.

Search. It's your friend. Yes it is on your SC3 question. The answer to your first questions is most likely no. But it could be done.

Yea, what is the maintenance record on it and miles? Do a full tune up and check for codes. Change all fluids. Check all mounting positions and make sure things are nice and tight. Have your bushings and joints checked and make note of ones that need replacing and save up to do them all at once.

Misfire as in backfire or loss of power? Could be the torque converter or transmission issue - or fuel pump ecu. Try a search through the forums. Any 4.0 toyota/lexus troubleshooting threads. Run a diagnostic check.

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...&hl=turbo+sc430 That's the thread with details. So twins is low slung unless there is a way to figure them up top. A single will fit up top somewhere I think - maybe I've got it backwards. Either way, lots of fab work. I would love to work on something like this. But then reality hits me in the head.

Tom, Thanks for coming by. I have some information on two such projects. I need to dig it up though. There was a thread that came through here two or three months ago on this exact subject. I'll try to locate it. I highly recommend turbo over supercharging because I'm biased and it just makes more sense to me in $$ to power as well as operational fundamentals. I'll be in touch and good luck to you. AJ

Are you sure there is no antifreeze in your oil (chocolate milky) or oil in your antifreeze? I think a compression check is in order. If you had no idle problem before adjusting the tps, then you will need to readjust it. It is possible the seals on one or both of the valve covers is just old and wore out. You can replace those too or try to tighten them up a little. Be carefull though. Too tight and you might break something in the plastic areas. There are 3 oxygen sensors on your car I think. Two in the exhaust manifold banks and one after the merge. If you have the manuals there is a procedure listed on how to run diagnostic check. Give that a shot. You can always take it to a good independant mechanic and have them run a compression test. If compression is good - see your manual - you have nothing to worry about. Just find where the oil is coming from and correct the idle issue.

About the idle and throttle position sensor, what method did you use to adjust it? Do you have the factory service manuals? How did the butterfly look when you had it off? As far as the oil is concerned - was it on the outside of the plug, above the threads? Or on the electrode side, inside the cylinder? Do you know how to run a diagnostics check? You may check your coil - not sure what maintenance you have had at this point. At 150k you are approaching a major interval. There are lots of possiblilities here. For 1, if you have the original oxygen sensors - replace them all now. Even if they are not throwing code. You probably stand to replace all vacuum lines. I'm sure your air filter has been serviced but if not, do that too. Could be an air metering issue too or a combination of any of these. What does your oil and antifreeze look like? Has the car overheated ever?

I won't go so far as to call any idea anything. Perspective is personal. It's just flawed logic. Sure, LS's get up there in miles. So do SC's. I'll bet the actual number is the same. To stereotype is just so common. So some old lady never goes over 3,900 rpms but never changes her oil either. Sounds like a winner. It works both ways. In fact, I'll trust the toyota 2jz inline 6 over almost any other motor made.

I believe everything I read on the internet.

Nice work Marty. Had no idea. Let us know how it goes for ya.

Hey - your guy is right. I took a picture. but u'll have to use your imagination. Driver side valve cover - oil cap strait back - pcv valve location. Pass side valve cover strait back - the 90* piece -- straight though no check. Don't ask how I checked. Pretend the rest of your motor is there.

Jeff, typically the term downpipe is reserved for turbo motors. Your na has a exhaust manifold, merge collector, catalytic converters, and mufflers. Take an adequate size quality piece of pipe and have it placed where the cats are and you will see a benefit I think. Probably not too much but some. You could try an x pipe with a decent merge for scavenging - I think Lextreme recommends a few.

I was refering to the VR4 3000gt, not the galant vr4. Galant vr4 = 4g63/3000gt vr4 = v6tt (don't know the engine code) I'd take a 4g63. Not the other transverse mounted chrysler v6 with a couple turbos one. Now a good dizm will run away, until the crank walks out the back. :P

Sorry man - I'm reliable to a point. Those guys do know more than I do if they do their job right. So I'll check and let you know. It might just be an air port.