AWJ

I have to agree with this one. Hit it hard everywhere you can think of. If it holds up - buy it. I go balls out everywhere. But know the limits, eh?

New information: Check this out - not a bad deal if you ask me. I will do this eventually. PartsAmerica trunk lifts That is just a few options. I can put together a how to if needed. ;)

AS LONG AS THEY ARE 5*114 ON THE BOLT PATTERN.

What kind of rotors are you using? Is the big brake set-up with rotors and calipers?

I think Titan is in the orlando area. I'll check up on that.

LOL sc tngal. No, the old lady is my fiancee. But if you can rock a SC more power to ya. Welcome to the club! Ask away on those items. We'll do what we can to assist.

Do it right the first time with a well reveared turbo guru. You're not just paying for a turbo. But there is also - SRT Garage Advance Titan PHR Sound Performance Lots of options.

Have the brakes been bled?

That is a decent policy. A cool head will always prevail. But you can buy from a private owner. Just note the problems. Foggy headlights - knock off 600$. Pull the headlights yourself. If it is just condensation, drill a 1/8" hole in a place no one will see it. Re-install. No more condensation. This is the fix for many headlights for many many cars in time. I did it to the last SC - worked like a charm. Foggy headlights, follow the procedures on cleaning them inside out. Save the money on new ones or the cost of new ones. There are always options. Who's to say you get new headlights when you ask for new headlights?

Word. Got stuff to do - <_<

Yea, I'm jealous. For 100,000$ there is a whole lot more car available than one VW from a movie with a ghey decal and naaawwwssss. But I digress.

Sounds kosher to me. Sorry, didn't look at the car, but I'm sure it is right on. Isn't that the same kid who bought the Jetta from the fast and the furious for 100,000$. What a maroon.

I concur. From all the testimonials I have seen, if the power steering pump is leaking - your alternator is gonna fry. If there is no leak, the alternator will last indefinitely (considering proper care is taken).

I'm almost sure that is your water pump. Replace it along with the serpentine belt. Is there an alternator directly beneath the unit you are referring to? If so, then it is the power steering pump on the 1UZ-FE. Either way, replace it if it is the water pump. If it is the power steering pump, they can be rebuilt - but I've never done it. Although I may have experience with this soon.

If you are looking for a good fuel, ignition, timing, boost dependant controller - check out Haltech. I run an F5 and does the job just fine. For now ;) . I can send you a pdf manual if you would like to see it. But you'll have to wait a little while before I can get to it. To support 350hp find out these items: 1. stock injector size 2. stock injector flow rates 3. stock fuel pump flow rates 4. stock boost cut limit 5. maximum boost at stock Try to find the maximum and minimum on flow rates. To run more boost, the first thing you will need to do is get the waste gate on the turbos to allow more pressure physically and then eliminate the stock boost cut. I have heard a little rumor about jdm cars that maybe you can verify. The gentelmen's agreement limits cars to whatever hp - 280 for example. I've heard one way they do this is to simply block the travel on the accelerator. So if the block is removed the accelerator can move farther and give more throttle and thus = more power. I have no idea if this holds water though. Anyways, Greddy (Trust) makes a boost cut defender that will allow the stock turbos to boost higher - but you will still want a limit somewhere. Say at 6psi above stock without fuel enhancement. Then a good boost controller (manual or electronic) with high and low boost setting. To control fuel, there are a multidude of gadgets and devices. Get those two items installed and working correctly to start with and go from there. Before upgrading fuel control, don't go crazy with boost or you may damage things. You can definitely expect the turbos to go quicker, but they can be replaced fairly easily.

Part list and prices for 92 to 96 cosmetic conversion to 97 to 00. All credits given: DIN and Lex Luthor Front bumper cover 52119-24914 list 315.64 grill 53114-24020 list 104.33 absorber 52611-24030 list 48.57 97-00 fog lamp, RH is 81210-24040 $143.07 list 97-00 fog lamp, LH is 81220-24040 $143.07 list Side body rocker panel 75851-24900 list 236.37 body rocker panel 75852-24900 list 236.37 clips 75868-24020 list 1.82 Rear bumper cover 52159-24905 list 324.82 under side cover 76973-24902 list 88.72 under side cover 76974-24902 list 88.72 Retainer 52587-24010 list 13.45 Retainer 52586-24010 list 13.45 Taillight 81560-24070 list 204.20 Taillight 81550-24070 list 204.20 rear spoiler is 76871-24904 $433.88 list Parts may be located at your favorite dealer... or anywhere else a creative soul may resource. They will need to be painted. This information is also available in lex400sc's faq site found in the FAQ thread links. Good luck.

Okay, the 92 to 96 do not have a front grill in the bumper. Therefore, to have a front grill from a 97+ model, you will need the new bumper to fit it in. Unless you are really creative with a saw and plastic ;) . I'll get those part numbers for ya. Oh yea - Mike, welcome. Enyoy that car.

I have no idea. Maybe general maintenance is better? I'll move it then. ;)

At any rate some electrical items to consider are the ABS control unit, speed sensor, and associated relays. This is a strange issue and not typical of Lexus. I'm sure it will be resolved. Be careful.

Openingact: welcome to the joys of owning an SC! Congratulations. 14.5k for a supratt - somebody slap me. Feel free to be as long winded as you like, by the way. B) You won't be banned for it. Nomad: OK

Darn lefty shifters. Now that is just wrong. :P

TOYOMOTO

Did the tech's look at the reservoir? Check to make sure there is fluid in there up to the full line. Has there been a brake job or work of any type done to the brakes, wheels, or suspension? This is very serious and the car should not be driven until the problem is discovered. How do the pads look? Are the rotors ok? Is the brake fluid dirty? Take it to a brake shop and have them bleed the brake system replace the fluid, replace the pads and check the rotors. Then make sure the wheels are installed to the correct torque rating on the lugs. Have them inspect all brake lines. Again, the car is unsafe to drive. Do not drive it unless it is to a well reputed mechanic. Be extremely careful. Is there an brake fault light on the dash board? ABS light or anything?

Why do you feel you would need one? Baby steps. That thing is for the big dogs. But it could be made to work. It is a standalone replacement ECU that is used mainly on all out racecars. I've seen them used for $1,500 US. You want power? Go with a single turbo upgrade - T51R or T04R, front mount intercooler, torque converter, and fuel system upgrade. If that is not enough - up to 700hp - then good luck. You will need some type of fuel management but AEM is not necessary. A boost controller, boost dependent injector controller, and timing controller should cover the bases cheaper. You'll need a bigger fuel pump, fuel rail, injectors, regulator, and ignition system (coil, amplifier, wires/cap, colder plugs). The AEM will require a custom harness and software maps to be created, downloaded and tweaked. Hard stuff for the even moderately experienced people. I can't imagine trying. Good luck! Keep us posted.

Nice engine link there. What are your goals with this car. A t3/t4 hybrid on that motor can be tuned to 400hp. On the street that is insane. The 5 speed is actually faster off the line - but loses on top end. Start with your goals, be realistic and go from there. Unless you got a lot of money and downtime/skill is not an issue - take baby steps and you will see your goals materialize a whole lot more easily. Where do you want to start - horsepower goals?