AWJ

Word - come off it.

Deanski, First off - I'm sorry your experience has been like this. I don't really know what to tell you. Here is what I know... 80 to 95% of the time, if you want something done correctly in any kind of situation - you have to do it yourself. It is sad but true. I don't know that this has been any different through the entire history of mankind. After working for two car dealerships in my younger days and seeing people buy cars, I can say this: I will NEVER do business with any car dealership EVER. I buy my cars from private individuals and I buy product model lines that are well established. A brand new car loses 30% of it's value as soon as it is driven off of the lot. Service should be the number 1 product of any dealership. The car is #1 product of the manufacturer. Dealerships just don't care. In my entire life, I have come across 1 new car dealership that seemed to be genuinely concerned with service. The entire nature of the automotive industry from the very raw materials to the end user is a horribly cut throat and obnoxiously aggressive beast. I don't mean to criticize your decision or actions because there is nothing wrong with the course you have chosen to take. There is a sense of accomplishment and pride that comes with a brand new vehicle. The pity is - conflicts are all too frequent and too many people are involved. I find more satisfaction in finding a car that has held up well for a few thousand miles with it's largest depreciation passed in a condition that is acceptable to me. I completely remove the dealer from the equation. Continue with your formal course of action and take satisfaction in knowing that others may perhaps learn from your experience. But as always, there are at least two sides to every story. Best of luck to you. *The views and statements of this moderator do not necissarily represent the views and statements of this web site* AWJ

Bullet Hawk All I can say is - What the ****?!!!11!1one

I got a few cats I can rally. I'll have to talk my crew into buying a lexus for each of them. :whistles: We might be able to get the SELOC dudes out there - or some of them. Maybe drop a dime on Toyomoto and see if they might send someone out of the woodwork to represent. I could try and catch up to a guy named Bill Ogden. If I didn't *BLEEP* those guys off too much last time I was in Miami.

On a ford?? Must be a Hawaii thing. Just kidding man. Those turbo deisels are baaaadddd mofos. For pulling crap and stuff.

Sounds like a thermostat to me. Check for leaks and fluid level. There could be air in the system too. Marty is still looking for his fix I think. Wish I could help more. Good luck guys.

That is what we do here at the factory when bolts sieze up. But I get nervous with a torch around my pride and joy. So JPI, no input on how to get frozen crank pulley bolt out? Eazy outs won't work. Unless you got a reall good set.

I don't live in Florida - but I can be in Orlando next year with the SC300 - with bells on. Just give the details. We could also plan a drive or two for some exposure.

By all means, please share.

I understand what PHR is saying, but the parts can be sourced new from toyota. The tranny tunnel can be hammered out. There is no way around having a completely custom lengthened driveshaft and half shafts made for the rear. The job is going to cost but - ultimately PHR is only suggesting. If you truly want your 6speed SC300 - you can have it. It may not be through PHR though because they obviously do not want to do it. By the way, there is one for sale already built in Miami for 32,000$. I'd buy it if I could but it wasn't for sale when I was in the market. That is after all - the easiest way to get it - buy it already built.

I have a bunch of links in the SC forum faq on stuff including engine modifications. I stumbled across this link tonight almost by mistake. Being a novice at dyno tuning and the like and how to go about it - I found this page and the information on to be the most valuable general information I have ever seen. So I feel that it is worthy of being a sticky topic here in the modification forum. I must give credit where credit is due and the chap who wrote these articles is one cool handed fellow. Quite possibly some of the best information I have seen yet - ever about engines and the things we do to them and how to make sure those things are working towards the goal. (period)! All credit and due respect to Mr. Dave Baker of PUMA RACE ENGINES. PUMA RACE ENGINES

Quite possibly some of the best information I have seen yet - ever about engines and the things we do to them and how to make sure those things are working towards the goal. (period)! All credit and due respect to Mr. Dave Baker of PUMA RACE ENGINES. PUMA RACE ENGINES - MAIN MENU PAGE

Well then, I'm a celebrity as well. B)

Try going negative 5 (-5%) in the high setting. If you hear strange noises or notice some jerking then change it back immediately.

Greatings - that is the climate control unit or whatever. Do you get air? Or absolutely nothing?

It probably sold. They come and go quickly. If Emerald does not reply - I'll get their attention for you. Let me know.

This slipped my attention. PHR doesn't want to deal with the hassle is all. An auto lexus can be converted to the 6 speed. But should only be done so after the GTE swap or boosted GE blasting the guts out of the stocker. There is a debate about the tranny tunnel on certain model years. 1995 is a definite no problem. Other model years may need a bfh to open up the situation. Then the physical opening for the shifter at the cockpit will probably need a little hacksawing. Then the custom driveshaft will be needed, as well as the TT 6 speed diffy (torsen or otherwise), then the axle shafts (I don't recall if these are custom as well or not. But sure, it can be done. If I had an auto SC300 and wanted a turbo, I would just get a torque converter and tranny cooler on the stock tranny and run it until it *BLEEP*s the bed. Then I would call up Sound Performance and ask them to throw one their SP series trannies my way. Automatics are, after all, more consistent off the line.

I agree. PITA. Never done it - never hope to. By the way K9crew - nice procedure bud. That may be added to the tutorial. Thanks man. Marty - the car may also be vapor locked where an air bubble is in a high spot of your coolant system. Perhaps a pesky bubble of air is in a bad place. I'll be back with more if needed - let me grab some time. Do that test procedure. I'm curious how that will work out. B)

Meddle, I got your pm this morning but was unable to reply. This happens on occassion on bolts especially on cars. I had a retainer clip degrade and fuse my driver side brake rotor cap on a honda so that the rotor was impossible to remove even after 3,000 lbs. of force from a hydraulic spreader. The whole assembly had to be removed and soaked over night in a corrosive goo to get the offending pieces separated. Anyways - onward. So to your situation - the cause mentioned above in your quote is most likely the situation. I imagine they did try to cold crank the motor with a wrench on the bolt? Did they try some type of thread penetration material such as pv blaster or the like? It will have to soak over night at the least and of course, we aren't going to pull the motor and the like just to get a pulley out. Have no fear, you do not need a new bottom end. That is rather drastic. Patience will take care of this situation. If your shop is not cooperative, have them put everything back and move on. Okay, so say the thread penetrator is not working. Well then they are going to have to take a die grinder or something to the bolt. You may want to be prepared to get another pully too just in case. Once that offending nusiance is removed the bolt stud can be drilled out by a patient indivial willing to work in that limited area. It would be easiest done on a lift. After the stud is removed the threads should be chased at the least by a corresponding tap die. Then get a new grade 8 bolt of the right size, and possibly new pulley if the die grinder guy slipped or something , use some anti sieze on the threads of the bolt before tightening to the correct torque by hand with a torque wrench - don't let them use those pesky impact wrenches they like so much as that is porbably how this happened in the first place ;) . That should do it. Just a little patience and :magic: it should be just fine. Good luck - I'm sure all will turn out fine.

The six speed gives a little more gear, and handles more power to a point. The stock 5 speed will eventually poopy it's pants sooner or later depending on driving habits.

Is your coolant level dropping out on you? Does the engine overheat at all?

Your delear is telling you that you are not getting enough fuel. Clean your system - change fuel filter, clean injectors, troubleshoot fuel pump.

It is all a matter of perspective. It's your thing. Do what you want to do.

I beleive it is called "garnet pearl". But I'd need to verify that.

My next car will be an IS300 or GS300 with full intentions of installing a single turbo set-up. Parts can be found used - deals can be struck. That high priced toyomoto deal is for a Stage 4.5 500+ horsepower killer. Built everything. You can have a turbo IS300 producing 350+ at the wheels that will walk on almost anything on the road for 7,000$ and less if you do the work yourself. Now a 460 hp Cobra - how much did that cost?