AWJ

You are in luck my friend. Maybe this will help. Good luck to you. Let me know if it does. I may be interested in doing this in the future. The handwritten text may or may not mean anything. I was told to ignore it.

Yes and no - click it.

K9crew - there is a fuel pump ecu that causes stalling when it acts up. There is a diagnostic test for it - I can try to locate. If your car drops out on you intermittently - this may worth a check. empirehorn - I would recommend a complete tune-up on your vehicle first including fuel filter replacement. Then if symptoms persist troubleshoot accordingly.

1. No 2. Good luck. Keep your auto and firm it up with a valve body upgrade and torque stall converter and you will have a cool SC400 off the line. Or spend a small fortune doing some sort of custum manual tranny swap. I have no idea what you would need to through with that.

I would by a 1993 to 1997 GS300 in excellent condition. Then I would add boost liberally.

Facing your car with the hood up, look to the right of the brake fluid reservoir. Your clutch master cylinder reservoir is right there up at the fire wall next to the brake master cylinder.

;) No problem - that info is courtesy of DaveH, our friendly turbo guru over at Supraforums.com - a real good guy.

Yea the diagram is incorrect I beleive - hang on... Manual USA - updates read carefully And last but not least - ummm........ Hope that helps.. gotta go.

Update on offsets for the SC: 50mm - Perfect 45mm - Negligble difference 40mm - Noticable difference 35mm - Crap 30mm - Dangerous Credit to London Bill TIF

You may be able to save the alternator. But it will have to come off. I would take it a to an electrical motor shop to have inspected and repaired - depending on the extent of damage. In my area there are a few places that will repair electric motors cheaply. I don't know about your area. It is possible it may only need a cleaning but I'm have not had this experience so I don't know. Good luck on the pump rebuild. I may try that myself as my ps pump is leaky as well - let us know how it goes. For the abs light, - it may be a result of the electrical drain - but check your brake fluid level. If the light comes on and off intermittently - the fluid level may be changing with motion enough to trip the light. Good luck

At the track... or downtown with a hottie in the passenger seat... B) at hot import nights with the light show and model sprawled across your bumper with her cheecks in the air - (I need a vacation <_< ) ...in the long run it is cheaper, just fix it as it breaks - that car in particular is completely built and needs no further improvement. I would have bought it if it was available when I was looking. T70, 6 speed, dvd/nav complete system, suspesnsion, 6piston brakes, wald body kit, fmic, complete fuel system and standalone management - easily 80,000$ in modifications - although I'm sure he has stripped some of the electronic goodies and sold them separate by now as the price has gone down a lot. The guy really wants to sell it too - not that I would ever sell a car I put that much effort into. To each his own - I can get anyone in contact with the seller but they better be serious about it - the price is 32g's firm.

Looks like the link has gone dead - hmm, what's with all these links dying? Let me see here - D'oh, no luck for now. Maybe someone else can help. Try checking the cache on google - ...

The site link to lex400sc's page is down. That is in our Frequently Asked Questions thread. I found it cached on google and will try to attach it here. You can remove the headlight, disassemble it and clean it - or you can 400$ for a new one. Or try to find a used one (wich is not impossible, they come up on e-bay often). Good luck. Lexus_SC300_SC400_FAQ___intellexual_net.htm

If it is a sc400 - power steering will do that. SC300 water pump may be the cause.

It is also in the faq - sound system

The manuals range from 100 to 200+$ depending for the real thing. Some service shops might make a zerox of a couple pages for you if they are cool. You can disassemble your headlight and clean it to as new condition. There is a battery in your key - try that first. The other electrical items could be almost anything but the fuses were a good start. Borrow a multimeter is the best advice. If I find time I might be able to get a couple of electrical diagrams up. They are for 95 model, but it should not be different. We'll see.

Check connections, positive and negative main cables for corrosion, chassis ground, alternator connections and alternator grounds. It won't hurt to have your alternator tested.

I have seen them listed from stateside suppliers at about 1,500$ with discount. Then you have to paint and mount them. I'd rather get my fuel system built up and slap a bigger turbo on for that cash - or get a JIC FLTA-2 suspension and Daizen Bars and Bushings. But that is all personal preference.

Yes, all three of those. Dished pistons, thicker head gasket and slightly different combustion chamber in the head. That is how the GE guys drop the compression. GTE(or gte spec aftermarket) pistons and gte spec head gasket. Or one or the other for varied CR's.

The stroke and bore are the same. The compression is lower. And the intake manifold is different and there is a turbo manifold and the head is designed for pressurized flow but these are minimal matters as NA motors handle boost and FI motors don't run well without boost. "Do it right the first time" - come on, do you know how many na-t GE's there are out there - this is not a loose toleranced, head warping, sloppy built ford 6 pal. The GE is merely the NA counterpart of arguably one of the strongest motors ever built form overdesigned conception to bulletproof production reality. Look: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...=3&t=996&st=15& I'm getting tired of this discussion so I'm not going to bring it up again. The motors are interchangeable. The heads can be swapped, the blocks can be swapped, the rods are the same forged piece, the pistons are both forged/resin coated, two piece oil sump, crank, 7 four bolt mains, etc. Compression is deifferent (there is your difference in pistons and squish), head ports are different due to the pressure/density of FI. A NA head does just fine under pressure. A FI head don't do so hot without pressure. Meddle - Angel's site is down - turboforum.net. You can catch him at supraforums as well as several other turboed GE motors. Sure, after so much boost you are going to want to do something about compression but you can check out Scott's site - http://www.datapathusa.com/scott/scott.html

It is your heat sheilds. All SC's do it. Except ones with heavily modified exhaust and removed heat shields like mine.

Read a lot of books - internet forums are not the best place to get this info because of ill advice. Maximum Boost by Cory Bell is the best book I've ever read. Also - hit the link in the faq - the last post and read it. At 140,000 miles a good ge motor is just getting broken in. Do a compression test on it and make sure the compression is in an acceptable range according to the manual. If it is, then there is nothing wrong with using that motor for turbo. I have a 2jz-ge with STOCK internals dynoed 353 at the rear wheels. www.turboforums.com has one with STOCK internals running 500+ horsepower. What does that tell you?

Welcome. Glad to have ya.

We have a couple GA people here. Maybe this is your cat. If not - tell him to come by. Welcome to the club.

70$ really isn't that bad. Glad to see it is fixed. Check out your connections from the radio and make sure they are all good. Go from there. Good luck.